Cordillera Blanca

  • Northern Cordillera Blanca Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located due north of Llanganuca valley (road from Yungay to Yanama). Champará and Milluacocha are smaller groups located furthest to the north. Main groups of the norther area are Santa Cruz and Houandoy, both of which have several peaks rising to around 6000m. Most visited area is Santa Cruz valley between Santa Cruz group in the north and Huandou group in the south. The valley is also very popular among trekkers. Probably best known climbs are Alpamayo and Quitaraju in Santa Cruz group and Artesonraju, Pisco and Huandoy peaks in Huandoy group.
  • Central Cordillera Blanca Central part lies between quebrada Llanganuco in the north (road from Yungay to Yanama) and quebrada Honda in south. The area has four main groups, Huascaran, Contrahierbas, Copa and Perlilla. By far the best known and most visited among climbers of these groups is Huascaran with Huascaran Sur (6769m) being the highest peak in Cordillera Blanca and 7th highest peak in the Andes. Easier Chopicalqui is also a popular peak. The other peaks further south are far less visited, despite Hualcan and Copa rising to above 6000m mark.
  • Southern Cordillera Blanca Southern part of the range consists of several massifs and valleys located to the south of Quebrada Honda, close to city of Huaraz. Two main groups of the area are Chinchey and Huantsan with both having several peaks rising above 6000m altitude. Close proximity to Huaraz make the areas relatively popular, particularly Ishinca valley is very popular. There are number of popular peaks from the valley, particularly Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca. On the other hand, Palcaraju, Chinchey and Huantsan are among the least visited 6000m peaks in the range. Southernmost ranges Yanamaray, Pongas, Raria and Caullaraju are lower and far less glaciated. Most of the peaks in these areas have non-technical ascents that can climbed as day trips from the valleys.

Northern Cordillera Blanca

Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located due north of Llanganuca valley (road from Yungay to Yanama). Champará and Milluacocha are smaller groups located furthest to the north. Main groups of the norther area are Santa Cruz and Houandoy, both of which have several peaks rising to around 6000m. Most visited area is Santa Cruz valley between Santa Cruz group in the north and Huandou group in the south. The valley is also very popular among trekkers. Probably best known climbs are Alpamayo and Quitaraju in Santa Cruz group and Artesonraju, Pisco and Huandoy peaks in Huandoy group.

  • Champará Isolated massif located to the north of quebrada Alpamayo and Santa Cruz massif. Very seldom visited. Access is easiest from Quitaracsa located to the south of the massif.
  • Milluacocha Located between Champará in the north and Santa Cruz in the south. Southern side of the massif is accessed from quebrada Alpamayo and north side from Quitaracsa (3300m).
  • Santa Cruz Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located north of Santa Cruz Valley (Quebrada Santa Cruz). Northern border is Quebrada de los Cedros. Here lies picturesque Alpamayo (5947m) that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world. Together with neighboring Quitaraju (6036m) Alpamayo is the most popular climb in northern Cordillera Blanca. Other famous mountains include the namesake of the group, Santa Cruz Grande (6241m) and Taulliraju (5830m), located at the end of the Santa Cruz Valley.
  • Huandoy Group Huandoy group is located between Santa Cruz Valley in the north and Quebrada Llanganuco in the south. The highest peak of the area is Huandoy (6395m). However, the most popular climb of the area are Pisco and the beautiful pyramid Artesonraju (6025). Other important peaks for the climbers include Chacraraju, la Esfinge and Piramid de Carcilaso.

Champará

Isolated massif located to the north of quebrada Alpamayo and Santa Cruz massif. Very seldom visited. Access is easiest from Quitaracsa located to the south of the massif.

  • San Julián
  • Champará

Milluacocha

Located between Champará in the north and Santa Cruz in the south. Southern side of the massif is accessed from quebrada Alpamayo and north side from Quitaracsa (3300m).

  • Milluacocha Grouop of five peaks to the north of quebrada Alpamayo and Santa Cruz group. The peaks are located on west to east ridge with the main peaks in the middle.
  • Pilanco Located between Tayapampa (SE) and Milluacocha (NW). Gara Gara pass separates Pilanco from Tayapampa. Three main summits are located on N-S ridge.

Santa Cruz

Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located north of Santa Cruz Valley (Quebrada Santa Cruz). Northern border is Quebrada de los Cedros. Here lies picturesque Alpamayo (5947m) that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world. Together with neighboring Quitaraju (6036m) Alpamayo is the most popular climb in northern Cordillera Blanca. Other famous mountains include the namesake of the group, Santa Cruz Grande (6241m) and Taulliraju (5830m), located at the end of the Santa Cruz Valley.

Santa Cruz - Peak 5582 - Abasraju (5785m) - Quitaraju - Alpamayo - Jancarurish (5601m) - Rinrijirca (6039m) - Pucajirca (6046m) - Taulliraju - Punta Union (4760m).

  • Santa Cruz
  • Quitaraju Most visited climbs from quebrada Santa Cruz are SW face of Alpamayo and North side of Quitaraju. Neither is non-technical both not excessively difficult either. Both climbs are one day climbs from Alpamayo-Quitaraju col camp.
  • Pucajircas Pucajircas - Taulliraju - Punta Union pass

Pucajircas

Pucajircas - Taulliraju - Punta Union pass

  • Pucarashta Lesser snow peak located between Alpamayo and Pucajirca Sur. Pucarashta is a chain of three summits running in West-east direction. East summit is the highest.
  • Pucajirca Northernmost 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca. Marks the eastern end of Santa Cruz group. Long N-S chain of peaks located to the east of Alpamayo. Quiet peaks with few climbers. All climbs difficult (D-TD). Only recorded ascent on Pucajirca Norte is North Ridge. Central and south peaks are climbed more frequently, usually from Taullicocha in Quebrada Santa Cruz (D-TD).
  • Taulliraju group "flower of ice", a very beautiful mountain located above the Punta Union Pass (4750m) at the end of Quebrada Santa Cruz. Can be considered a subsidiary summit of Pucajirca.
Taulliraju group

"flower of ice", a very beautiful mountain located above the Punta Union Pass (4750m) at the end of Quebrada Santa Cruz. Can be considered a subsidiary summit of Pucajirca.

Although it is located right next to a popular trekking route, is seldom climbed because all routes are difficult. Climbed usually from Quebrada Santa Cruz side with Base camp at 4500m via SW Face (several hard mixed routes, TD-ED). Few routes on North Face are slightly easier than SW face, but still plenty hard for most (TD).

Huandoy Group

Huandoy group is located between Santa Cruz Valley in the north and Quebrada Llanganuco in the south. The highest peak of the area is Huandoy (6395m). However, the most popular climb of the area are Pisco and the beautiful pyramid Artesonraju (6025). Other important peaks for the climbers include Chacraraju, la Esfinge and Piramid de Carcilaso.

  • Huandoy North
  • Huandoy Central
  • Huandoy group The highest peak in Cordillera Blanca after the two Huascaráns (tie with Huantsan). Large massif with four main summits and no non-technical route to any of the summits. Furthermore, none of the routes is objectively very safe. Theree highest Huandoys are clustered around high plateau (~5800m) from which all three of them can be climbed. The most striking feature of the Huandoys is gigantic South face oh Huandoy Sur. It is a vertical to overhanging rock face of Yosemite proportions. Other aspects of Huandoys are a lot icier but usually involve some mixed climbing as well.

Huandoy North

  • La Esfinge
  • Aguja group West-East chain located on the northern side of quebrada Paron located between La Esfinge and Putaca in the West and Caraz group in the East. Only handful of routes, all quite technical. Aguja I and II are prominent pointy peaks, Chica and III much less so. South faces of Aguja peaks form and impressive cirque featuring ice and mixed ground.
  • Caraz group West-East chain located to the north of laguna Paron between Aguja group in the west and Artesonraju in the East. Few routes on all peaks, all of them technical. The highest peak Caraz I is also technically the easiest. However, the easiest routes involve climbing to glacier plateau between Caraz I and II which is very chaotic. Naming is somewhat misleading as Caraz II is sometimes referred to as Caraz Este, although Centro would be geographically more correct.
  • Artesonraju
  • Piramide group Millishraju - Paria - Piramide
Piramide group

Millishraju - Paria - Piramide

  • Millishraju group
  • Paria group Paria is not too prominent peak in itself, a fact that is underlined by its position between its flashy neighbours; Artesonraju in the north and Piramide de Garcilaso in the south. Paron is one of the easier objectives available from Paron valley and thus could bee used for acclimatization purposes. Towards Paron valley the peaks is completely covered in snow and ice. From this side the main difficulty is without a doubt route finding through seracs and crevasses. From the north side (quebrada Santa Cruz) the peak looks a lot pointier and rockier.
  • Piramide group Classic fluted pyramid-shaped peak rising above laguna Paron between Artesonraju and Paron in the north and Chacraraju in the south. Quite possibly the most stunning peak in quebrada Paron despite there being higher and more famous peaks around. No easy routes. Mostly climbed either SW and NW faces. Additionally West ridge separating the two has been climbed. Long NE ridge rising from the col between Paron (Sur) and Piramnide has been climbed to summit of Piramide Norte (minor peaks along the ridge), but the double corniced ridge from there to main summit remains to be climbed. No climbs are known to exist from the east side.
  • Biggar 2005 pp.65-6

Huandoy Central

  • Yanapaccha group
  • Chacraraju group Very difficult mountain, considered to be the most difficult 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca. The two summits are connected with knife edge and often heavily corniced ridge. Lower Este is considered somewhat less difficult than Oeste.
  • Pisco group
Yanapaccha group
  • Biggar 2005 pp.71
Pisco group

Group of peaks named after famous liquer. Reasonably short access, non-technical routes and moderate altitude by Cordillera Blanca standards make Pisco peaks some of the most popular in the range. Este is slightly higher but lower Oeste is more frequented.

Huandoy group

The highest peak in Cordillera Blanca after the two Huascaráns (tie with Huantsan). Large massif with four main summits and no non-technical route to any of the summits. Furthermore, none of the routes is objectively very safe. Theree highest Huandoys are clustered around high plateau (~5800m) from which all three of them can be climbed. The most striking feature of the Huandoys is gigantic South face oh Huandoy Sur. It is a vertical to overhanging rock face of Yosemite proportions. Other aspects of Huandoys are a lot icier but usually involve some mixed climbing as well.

  • Radehose pp.95

Central Cordillera Blanca

Central part lies between quebrada Llanganuco in the north (road from Yungay to Yanama) and quebrada Honda in south. The area has four main groups, Huascaran, Contrahierbas, Copa and Perlilla. By far the best known and most visited among climbers of these groups is Huascaran with Huascaran Sur (6769m) being the highest peak in Cordillera Blanca and 7th highest peak in the Andes. Easier Chopicalqui is also a popular peak. The other peaks further south are far less visited, despite Hualcan and Copa rising to above 6000m mark.

  • Huascaran group South of Huandoy group, between Quebrada Llanganuco in the north and Quebrada Ulta in the south lies somewhat isolated Huascaran (6769m), the highest peak of the range. Huascaran Sur (6769m) is the 7th highest peak in the Andes. Huascaran totally dominates the area, although Chopicalqui rises to impressive 6345m.
  • Copa group Copa group is located to the south of Huascaran massif. Despite the group having four peaks rising above 6000m with routes that are not too technical and not too remote it is not particularly often visited. That being said, the area is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering. Very difficult Ulta located in the northern part of the group is probably most famous peak in the group as there are several difficult mixed climbs on the NW face climbed during the 2000's and published in climbing magazines and websites.
  • Perlilla group Perlilla massif consists of Nevado Perlilla and Copap group. They are a group of ~5500 summits rising in a bowl-like formation around broad plateau at ca. 5200m. Most routes are one-day glacier ascents from the plateau in a day and are in the lower grades (F-AD). Approach from Quebrada Honda or Vicos via Portachuelo de Honda.

Huascaran group

South of Huandoy group, between Quebrada Llanganuco in the north and Quebrada Ulta in the south lies somewhat isolated Huascaran (6769m), the highest peak of the range. Huascaran Sur (6769m) is the 7th highest peak in the Andes. Huascaran totally dominates the area, although Chopicalqui rises to impressive 6345m.

  • Huascarans Highest mountain of Peru and Cordillera Blanca. The name 'Huascaran' means literally 'purple'. Indian legends however, refer to Huascar, a local prince executed on the spot where the mountain now stands. Normal routes on both peaks ascends from west to Garganta (6010m), the high pass between the peaks. Lower Norte is more important climbing goal than higher Sur if technically difficult climbing is your cup of tea. Sur is rarely climbed on anything else than Garganta route. There are several hard routes (TD or more) on NE and E faces of Huascaran Sur and especially on the north face of Huascaran Norte.
  • Chopicalqui
  • World Mountaineering pp144-7
  • Radehose pp.102

Copa group

Copa group is located to the south of Huascaran massif. Despite the group having four peaks rising above 6000m with routes that are not too technical and not too remote it is not particularly often visited. That being said, the area is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering. Very difficult Ulta located in the northern part of the group is probably most famous peak in the group as there are several difficult mixed climbs on the NW face climbed during the 2000's and published in climbing magazines and websites.

  • Conrahierbas group Contrahierbas group is located to the east of Huascaran group. The namesake is the peak and the only one rising to above 6000m. The group is very little explored with only few routes listed on any of the guidebooks and none of them highly frequented or otherwise famous.
  • Ulta
  • Hualcan Together with nearby Copa, Hualcan forms a large glacier plateau which is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering.
  • Copa One of the easiest 6000m peaks in Cordillera Blanca. Despite of this nowhere near as frequented and Huascarán or Chopicalqui.
  • Paccharaju Located to the east of Copa and easily accessible from the road running through quebrada Honda.

Conrahierbas group

Contrahierbas group is located to the east of Huascaran group. The namesake is the peak and the only one rising to above 6000m. The group is very little explored with only few routes listed on any of the guidebooks and none of them highly frequented or otherwise famous.

  • Conrahierbas
  • Cajavilca Group of three little known peaks north of Conrahierbas and P.5960. The highest peaks is southermost one, separated by shallow col between it and P.5690. All three have non-technical normal routes from quebrada Ichik/Ulta on the NW side.
Cajavilca

Group of three little known peaks north of Conrahierbas and P.5960. The highest peaks is southermost one, separated by shallow col between it and P.5690. All three have non-technical normal routes from quebrada Ichik/Ulta on the NW side.

  • New places, new faces in the Cordillera Blanca. Although the mountains north and east of Huaraz must rank as some of the most frequented in South America, Peru's Cordillera Blanca still holds many secrets. Tony Barton from the UK, on his sixth trip to Peru, recently climbed two new routes in rarely visited areas. With John Pearson, a current Huaraz resident, he traveled to the jungle side of the range and from there approached the Contrahierbas Massif from the northeast. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2007-09-27.

Hualcan

Together with nearby Copa, Hualcan forms a large glacier plateau which is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering.

  • Kiendler pp.68-9
  • Sharman pp.66

Copa

One of the easiest 6000m peaks in Cordillera Blanca. Despite of this nowhere near as frequented and Huascarán or Chopicalqui.

  • Kiendler pp.69-70
  • Biggar 2005 pp.78

Perlilla group

Perlilla massif consists of Nevado Perlilla and Copap group. They are a group of ~5500 summits rising in a bowl-like formation around broad plateau at ca. 5200m. Most routes are one-day glacier ascents from the plateau in a day and are in the lower grades (F-AD). Approach from Quebrada Honda or Vicos via Portachuelo de Honda.

  • Copap group
  • Perlilla group

Southern Cordillera Blanca

Southern part of the range consists of several massifs and valleys located to the south of Quebrada Honda, close to city of Huaraz. Two main groups of the area are Chinchey and Huantsan with both having several peaks rising above 6000m altitude. Close proximity to Huaraz make the areas relatively popular, particularly Ishinca valley is very popular. There are number of popular peaks from the valley, particularly Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca. On the other hand, Palcaraju, Chinchey and Huantsan are among the least visited 6000m peaks in the range. Southernmost ranges Yanamaray, Pongas, Raria and Caullaraju are lower and far less glaciated. Most of the peaks in these areas have non-technical ascents that can climbed as day trips from the valleys.

Southernmost part of Cordillera Blanca consists of few groups with lower peaks and no large glaciers. Most of the ascents here are not too difficult and possible as day trips from the valleys. Pucaraju South face aside, few technical routes exists. That said, most of the peaks have been climbed quite a while a ago and mostly only from one or two valleys, therefore there could very well be lots of room for new routing. Busses to Punta Cahuish and Pastoruri make accessing these areas easy.

No guidebook that I am aware of covers these areas in much detail. To make matters more confusing, maps and information available in guidebooks and AAJ reports don't readily match except for the main peaks. That being said, most of the peaks have been climbed in the 1960's, not least because of systematic exploration by Domingos Giobbi.

  • Chinchey group South of Huascaran, separated by it by Quebrada Ulta valley, lies Chinchey group. Northern part of the group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is propably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha). Southern part of Chinchey located between Quebrada Honda in north and Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cyaesh in the south is far more popular with several famous peaks including Tocllaraju (6032m), Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Ranrapalca (6162m). It is also easily accessible due to close proximity to the Huaraz. Several long ridges and four major faces. NW Ridge falls from Oeste to col (5530m) between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju and SW Ridge falls from Oeste to col between Palcaraju and Ishinca. Highest peak of the extensive Chinchey massif. Despite its status as the highest peak of the group, it is not nearly as popular climbs Ishinca, Vallunaraju, Tocllaraju or Ranrapalca.
  • Huantsan group Huantsan group is located very close to Huaraz, slightly to the SE. It lies to the south Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cayesh. Although the highest peak of the group Huantsan (6369m), is located close to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is due to its difficulty, it is considered to be the hardest big peak after Chacraraju. Maparaju (5326m) and San Juan (5843m), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents.
  • Yanamarey group Somewhat further south from quebrada Rurec, separated from the main group lies Yanamarey valley with the large lake of Querococha (3980m). It is accessed from Catac along the road to Chavin by Querococha. Approach to some climbs is shorter from by the Punta Cahuish tunnel. The valley offers good acclimatization climbs of Yanamaray Norte (5237m) and Sur (5197). Also SE side Pucaraju (5322m) is possible from the valley (not to be confused with higher peak with the same name located in northern Cordillera Blanca). Contrary to most other peaks in this area, Pucaraju South face has several ice and mixed routes around 350m high and around TD in difficulty.
  • Pongas group Cluster of peaks to the south of Olleros-Chavin road. Routes are generally easy and doable within a day from the valley. The group consists of Northern and southern massifs. Names, heights and locations of the peaks are highly confusing, as several of the peaks mentioned in various guidebooks and AAJ can not be found on DAV maps and also the altitudes on unnamed peaks on the map don't readily match those mentioned on guidebooks and AAJ articles. Usual approach is from Catac.
  • Raria group Raria is a compact group of lower peaks between Pongos group in the north and Caullaraju group in the south. Frequent tourist bus service to Pastoruri to the south of the group makes access easy. That combined with easy routes makes the area well suited for acclimatization purposes. Main peaks of the group are Raria Norte and Sur, which some some distance apart separated by snow saddle at 5200m. Huarapasca (5430m), Raria Este I (5418m) and Gajap (5208) are the main peaks in the SE part of the group. Particularly the latter three are located very close to Pastoruri road.
  • Caullaraju group Caullaraju group is the first group of peaks one sees when driving from Lima to Huaraz via Conococha pass (4100m). The groups is the southernmost group of Cordillera Blanca, due south of Raria group and west of Cordillera Huallanca. Approach from the road to Pastoruri to the north of the group (short distance from the road from Lima to Huaraz). Routes are generally easy and doable in a day. SW part of Caullaraju group consists of Caullaraju peaks, a fairly complex group with three main summit areas, Oeste, Central and Este, each with multiple summits. From Caullaraju Este another ridge leads first NE to Quenuaracra, then turns south forming a loop around the valley. Oeste peaks are somewhat lower than Este and central but steeper and more difficult (estimated AD/D by Biggar but with no more detailed info).

Chinchey group

South of Huascaran, separated by it by Quebrada Ulta valley, lies Chinchey group. Northern part of the group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is propably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha). Southern part of Chinchey located between Quebrada Honda in north and Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cyaesh in the south is far more popular with several famous peaks including Tocllaraju (6032m), Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Ranrapalca (6162m). It is also easily accessible due to close proximity to the Huaraz.

  • Tocllaraju group
  • Chinchey group
  • Ranrapalca group
  • Churup group A long ridge stretches SW from Pucaranra separating Quebrada Cojup (northwest) and Quebrada Quilcayhuanca ( southeast). The ridge runs around 13 culminating at Churup, the SW face of which is well visible from Huaraz. The ridge drops almost 1000m from Pucaranra to Pucaranra-Jatunmontepuncu pass (5200m) before Huapi (Jatunmontepuncu) being the first summit on the ridge.

Tocllaraju group

  • Hatun Ulloc
  • Urus group Urus peaks is a group located SW of Tocllaraju forming the northern bank of quebrada Ishinca. The highest pea of the group is Central, but by far most visited is Este. Infact, Este is one of the most commonly climbed peaks in Cordillera Blanca being close to Ishinca Base Camp and not too technical. Aside of the Este, all other Urus peaks have non-technical normal routes. Those aside, only few technical routes have been climbed, but there's plenty of room for more.
  • Tocllaraju group
  • Akillpo group

Chinchey group

  • Palcaraju group Several long ridges and four major faces. NW Ridge falls from Oeste to col (5530m) between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju and SW Ridge falls from Oeste to col between Palcaraju and Ishinca.
  • Chinchey group South of Huascaran, separated by it by Quebrada Ulta valley, lies Chinchey group. Northern part of the group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is propably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha). Southern part of Chinchey located between Quebrada Honda in north and Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cyaesh in the south is far more popular with several famous peaks including Tocllaraju (6032m), Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Ranrapalca (6162m). It is also easily accessible due to close proximity to the Huaraz. Several long ridges and four major faces. NW Ridge falls from Oeste to col (5530m) between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju and SW Ridge falls from Oeste to col between Palcaraju and Ishinca. Highest peak of the extensive Chinchey massif. Despite its status as the highest peak of the group, it is not nearly as popular climbs Ishinca, Vallunaraju, Tocllaraju or Ranrapalca.
  • Chopiraju group Located immediately NW of Cayesh.
  • Cayesh group
Palcaraju group

Several long ridges and four major faces. NW Ridge falls from Oeste to col (5530m) between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju and SW Ridge falls from Oeste to col between Palcaraju and Ishinca.

  • Kiendler pp.75-6
Chinchey group

Highest peak of the extensive Chinchey massif. Despite its status as the highest peak of the group, it is not nearly as popular climbs Ishinca, Vallunaraju, Tocllaraju or Ranrapalca.

Ranrapalca group

  • Ranrapalca
  • Ochsapalca
Ochsapalca group
  • Ochsapalca
  • Yanguaraju A group of three peaks on the west ridge of Ochsapalca.
  • Vallunaraju

Huantsan group

Huantsan group is located very close to Huaraz, slightly to the SE. It lies to the south Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cayesh. Although the highest peak of the group Huantsan (6369m), is located close to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is due to its difficulty, it is considered to be the hardest big peak after Chacraraju. Maparaju (5326m) and San Juan (5843m), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents.

Division of Chinchey and Huantsan group is not very clearcut, as some sources consider the speaks south of Chinchey (Tullparaju, Chopiraju, Cayesh, Milpocraju and Maparaju) to belong to Huantsan massif.

  • San Juan group Northernmost peaks in Huantsan group. The groups consists of San Juan located on Cordillera Blanca main ridge and Quimarumi on the side ridge towards SW from it. This side ridge separates quebrada Cuilcayhuanca in the north and Shallap in the south.
  • Huamashraju group West-East chain that joins Cordillera Blanca main chain at Huantsan Norte. West side of Huamashraju has several rock routes as well as not too technical normal route. Normal route is well suited as acclimatization goal, however it is far less frequented than Urus, Ishinca or Pisco.
  • Huantsan group The summit lies just 21 km east of downtown Huaraz. Despite its close proximity to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is largely due to its difficulty, it is the second most difficult 6000m peak in the Cordillera Blanca (after Chacraraju). All climbs are long, committing and difficult. The group consists of four main summits: Norte, Main, Oeste and Sur, all located on Cordillera Blanca main ridge between San Juan and Tumarinaraju in the North and Rurec in the south. In the north prominent foresummit of P5969 is where North ridge (Huantsan Norte-Tumarinaraju col), East ridge, SE Ridge (Huantsan), SW ridge and NW ridge (Huamaspunta and Huamashraju) meet. From there the ridge runs to Huantsan main. Oeste is located very close to main. From there South ridge drops first to Huantsan Sur, then to Huantsan-Rurec col.
  • Cashan group Group in SW part of Huantsan massif, west of Rurec peaks. The group has three main peaks, Cashan Oeste and Este and Shagsha. Two Cashan peaks form a horseshoe around quebrada Cashan together with Shaqsha (Shacsha, Huantsan Chico). Seldom climbed rather technical peaks in the southern part of Cordillera Blanca.
  • Rurec group Rurec group is the southernmost group in Cordillera Blanca with extensive glaciation. The group consists on north-south ridge south of Huantsan Sur and ridge system west of Uruashraju. Rurec Oeste I and II are of the main ridge on the ridge that further becomes Cashan group.

Rurec group

Rurec group is the southernmost group in Cordillera Blanca with extensive glaciation. The group consists on north-south ridge south of Huantsan Sur and ridge system west of Uruashraju. Rurec Oeste I and II are of the main ridge on the ridge that further becomes Cashan group.

Main peaks of the group include Rurec Oeste I and II on the Cashan ridge, Rurec Principal, Rurec Sur peaks, Uruashraju and Tuctopunta on the main ridge and Pumahuacabca on the SW side branch. None of the highest peaks are very well known of frequented. Rurec peaks see some traffic as they have non-technical routes suitable as acclimatization climbs. More difficult Uruashraju and Pumahuacancaare very seldom climbed. Rurec Peaks are not merely a single mountain, as the peaks lie quite a distance apart.

Besides the high peaks, the lower reaches of the group, Pumahuacanca group in particular, feature several rocky summits and spires with steep rock faces. These walls feature Yosemite-like huge rock climbs on reputedly good granite, only somewhat bigger.

  • Rurec north
  • Rurec sur Rurec Sur peaks are a cluster of minor peaks between Rurec Principal in the north and Uruashraju in the south. Climbs from quebrada Rurec (west) are easily acclimatization climbs. East side from quebrada Alhuina appears to be far steeper but no climbs have been recorded from that side.
  • Cerro Pumahuacanca Cerro Pumahuacanca consists of ridge system SW from Uruashraju forming the eastern bank of the lower quebrada Rurec. Main peak is Pumahuacanca (Cerro Arhuay). There are also several other mountains and numerous summits as well as short ridges. Many of these feature steep and compact rock faces offering a lot of room for big rock routes. Most famous of these features is Punta Numa, with several very difficult rock routes. Some confusion and discrepancies are apparent to naming, altitude and location on those peaks.
Cerro Pumahuacanca

Cerro Pumahuacanca consists of ridge system SW from Uruashraju forming the eastern bank of the lower quebrada Rurec. Main peak is Pumahuacanca (Cerro Arhuay). There are also several other mountains and numerous summits as well as short ridges. Many of these feature steep and compact rock faces offering a lot of room for big rock routes. Most famous of these features is Punta Numa, with several very difficult rock routes. Some confusion and discrepancies are apparent to naming, altitude and location on those peaks.

Pumahuagangan group are the southermost main peaks of Pumahuacanca group. The main summit is hardly climbed, however, the rock faces on the lower reaches have several high end rock routes.

Yanamarey group

Somewhat further south from quebrada Rurec, separated from the main group lies Yanamarey valley with the large lake of Querococha (3980m). It is accessed from Catac along the road to Chavin by Querococha. Approach to some climbs is shorter from by the Punta Cahuish tunnel. The valley offers good acclimatization climbs of Yanamaray Norte (5237m) and Sur (5197). Also SE side Pucaraju (5322m) is possible from the valley (not to be confused with higher peak with the same name located in northern Cordillera Blanca). Contrary to most other peaks in this area, Pucaraju South face has several ice and mixed routes around 350m high and around TD in difficulty.

Yanamarey peaks are located in NW-SE ridge north of Punta Cahuish and East of Pucarahu. Higher Norte is located at the SW-NE chain, the the western end of which rises Pucaraju. The peaks are climbed usually from quebrada Yanamarey, which is accessed from Queropacha along thee road leading to Punta Cahuish. Sur can also be approached from Punta Cahuish. Both Yanamarey peaks are easy climbs making them well suited as acclimatization peaks.

  • Yanamarey group
  • Pucaraju group Long ridge SW of Yanamarey Norte that branches off into two forks at mid-way. Northern fork culminates in P-5145 and the southern one at Pucaraju, the most famous climbing destination in the entire Yanamarey group. The ridge certainly has several other summits but none appear to be very prominent or named on DAV map.

Pongas group

Cluster of peaks to the south of Olleros-Chavin road. Routes are generally easy and doable within a day from the valley. The group consists of Northern and southern massifs. Names, heights and locations of the peaks are highly confusing, as several of the peaks mentioned in various guidebooks and AAJ can not be found on DAV maps and also the altitudes on unnamed peaks on the map don't readily match those mentioned on guidebooks and AAJ articles. Usual approach is from Catac.

  • Pongas norte
  • Pongas sur SW-NE ridge between quebrada Queshque in NW and quebrada Raria in SE. Main peaks are located in the central part of the ridge. Besides of the main peak Pongas Sur (Mururaju) and its tribunaries, the ridge has several low 5000ers on either side of it. NW side is not as steep as the SE side. Several other peaks on the ridge have been climbed but not graded. However, they are mostly glacier free and presumed easy.

Raria group

Raria is a compact group of lower peaks between Pongos group in the north and Caullaraju group in the south. Frequent tourist bus service to Pastoruri to the south of the group makes access easy. That combined with easy routes makes the area well suited for acclimatization purposes. Main peaks of the group are Raria Norte and Sur, which some some distance apart separated by snow saddle at 5200m. Huarapasca (5430m), Raria Este I (5418m) and Gajap (5208) are the main peaks in the SE part of the group. Particularly the latter three are located very close to Pastoruri road.

  • Raria West
  • Waiaku Waiaku massif forms the eastern part of Raria massif. It forms NE-SW ridge with Gajap (5208m), Raria Este I (5460m), Raria Este II (5380m), Huarapasca (5430m) and Huayllaco Oeste (5343m).

Caullaraju group

Caullaraju group is the first group of peaks one sees when driving from Lima to Huaraz via Conococha pass (4100m). The groups is the southernmost group of Cordillera Blanca, due south of Raria group and west of Cordillera Huallanca. Approach from the road to Pastoruri to the north of the group (short distance from the road from Lima to Huaraz). Routes are generally easy and doable in a day.

SW part of Caullaraju group consists of Caullaraju peaks, It is fairly complex group with three main summit areas, Oeste, Central and Este, each with multiple summits. The highest peaks id Caullaraju massif are located here culminating at Caullaraju Este. Huisco, Tucu and Pastoruri in NE part of the massif lie close to Pastoruri road making them very accessible. From there long ridge system runs due south containing Rajutuna peaks.

  • Huisco group Located north of Caullaraju groups lies north south ridge with San Anton (5238m), Huisco (5487m), Huisco Sur (5437m) and Condorjitanca (5392m).
  • Caullaraju group Caullaraju group is the first group of peaks one sees when driving from Lima to Huaraz via Conococha pass (4100m). The groups is the southernmost group of Cordillera Blanca, due south of Raria group and west of Cordillera Huallanca. Approach from the road to Pastoruri to the north of the group (short distance from the road from Lima to Huaraz). Routes are generally easy and doable in a day. SW part of Caullaraju group consists of Caullaraju peaks, a fairly complex group with three main summit areas, Oeste, Central and Este, each with multiple summits. From Caullaraju Este another ridge leads first NE to Quenuaracra, then turns south forming a loop around the valley. Oeste peaks are somewhat lower than Este and central but steeper and more difficult (estimated AD/D by Biggar but with no more detailed info).
  • Tuco-Rajutuna group Eastern part of the group consists of long North-South chain. Tucu and Pastoruri lie in the northern end close to Pastoruri and are very accessible. From there long ridge system runs due south containing Rajutuna peaks marking the southernmost end of Cordillera Blanca.

Caullaraju group

SW part of Caullaraju group consists of Caullaraju peaks, a fairly complex group with three main summit areas, Oeste, Central and Este, each with multiple summits. From Caullaraju Este another ridge leads first NE to Quenuaracra, then turns south forming a loop around the valley. Oeste peaks are somewhat lower than Este and central but steeper and more difficult (estimated AD/D by Biggar but with no more detailed info).

  • Yuraq Janka pp.124

Mountains

Champará group

San Julian massif

San Julian (San Julián)-8.645284-77.7849225326
1932-06-05
San Julian, ,
First ascent		E. Hein & H. Hoerlin

Champará massif

Champará (Champara)-8.6927-77.77495735
Highest peak Champará massif
1936-07-02
Champará, Arista Oeste,
First ascent		Arista Oeste: A. Awerzger & E. Schneider
Arista Oeste
Arista Oeste (Vertiente O). 15 days round trip. 1936-07-02First ascentA. Awerzger & E. Schneider, 1936-07-02.
  • Tomé pp.39#1
  • Sharman pp.15
  • Bohórquez #9
San Miguel (Champará Chico)-8.6861-77.79085715
  • Bohórquez #9
Champará Este (Champará SE)5450
1932-05-29
Champará Este, Lado NE,
First ascent		Lado NE: E Hein, E. Schneider & H. Hoerlin
Lado NE
Lado NE. 1932-05-29First ascentE Hein, E. Schneider & H. Hoerlin, 1932-05-29.
  • Tomé pp.39#1
  • Sharman pp.15
  • Bohórquez #8
Champará Chico (San Miguel)5273
  • Bohórquez #9

Milluacocha

Milluacocha

Milluacocha Central-8.8030-77.73505480
1945-01-01
Milluacocha Central, Lado SE,
First ascent		Lado SE: F. & D. Marmillod
1962-08-21
Milluacocha Central, Arista SE,
First ascent		Arista SE: V. Angeles, M. Inokucji, Y. Hamano & N. Kaburami
SE side
Lado SE (Pendientes SE). Glacier, PD; 1200m, 1 day. 1945-01-01First ascentF. & D. Marmillod, 1945.
  • Tomé pp.42#1
  • Sharman pp.16
  • Bohórquez #11
Arista SE. Glacier, PD; 1200m, 1 day. 1962-08-21First ascentV. Angeles, M. Inokucji, Y. Hamano & N. Kaburami, 1962-08-21.
  • Tomé pp.42#2
  • Sharman pp.16
  • Bohórquez #12

Pilanco

Pilanco Norte-8.7993-77.68665286
1966-07-08
Pilanco Norte, Arista Sur,
First ascent		Arista Sur: D. Atherton, R. Goody, D. Norton & R. Wylie
South Ridge
Arista Sur. PD; 1 day. 1966-07-08First ascentD. Atherton, R. Goody, D. Norton & R. Wylie, 1966-07-08.
Pilanco Central-8.8139-77.69225300
1966-07-07
Pilanco Central, Arista Norte,
First ascent		Arista Norte: D. Atherton, R. Goody, D. Norton & R. Wylie
North Ridge
Arista Norte. PD; 1 day. 1966-07-07First ascentD. Atherton, R. Goody, D. Norton & R. Wylie, 1966-07-07.
Pilanco Sur-8.8309-77.68525150
Located only little to SW od Abra Gara Gara from where NE ridge leads to summit.
1966-06-22
Pilanco Sur, Arista NE,
First ascent		Arista NE: D. Atherton, R. Goody, D. Norton & R. Wylie
NE Ridge
Arista NE (NE ridge). Rock, AD; 500m, 1 day. 1966-06-22First ascentD. Atherton, R. Goody, D. Norton & R. Wylie, 1966-06-22.

Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz group

Santa Cruz Norte I-8.870613-77.7184875829
1967-07-24
Santa Cruz Norte I, Arista Oeste,
First ascent		Arista Oeste: A. Miyashita, N. Nishigori, T. Hayashi & K. Kobayashi
1997-07-29
Santa Cruz Norte I, Pared Sur,
First ascent		Pared Sur: C. Eriksson & B. Wolf
Arista Oeste
Arista Oeste. Mixed, TD; 60-70°; 1150m, 2 days. 1967-07-24First ascentA. Miyashita, N. Nishigori, T. Hayashi & K. Kobayashi, 1967-07-24.
laguna Cullicocha - glacier NW (5100m) - NW face (400m) - West ridge (430m).
Pared Sur
Pared Sur (Caveat Emptor). Snow/rock, ED; 95°; 750m, 2 days. 1997-07-29First ascentC. Eriksson & B. Wolf, 1997-07-29.
Santa Cruz Chico (Nevado Atunqocha, Santa Cruz Central)-8.878669-77.7087885800
Rarely climbed peak on the ridge between Santa Cruz Grande and Chico. None of the parties have gained the absolute highest points, as unstable seracs have stopped all suitors few meters below.
1900-01-01
Santa Cruz Chico, ,
Event		 Jason Currie & Guy Robertson Jason Currie & Guy Robertson
1958-07-02
Santa Cruz Chico, NE Face,
First ascent		NE Face: D. Michael, Irene & Leigh Ortenburger
NE Face
NE Face. Snow, 12h from camp at 5200m. 1958-07-02First ascentD. Michael, Irene & Leigh Ortenburger, 1958-07-02.
NE face, then along North ridge to the summit.
East face
East face (Scottish route). TD; 70-85°; 600m, 1 day.
  • Bohórquez #32
Italian route. 90°. 2011-01-01EventFabrizio Manoni, Enrico Rosso & Paolo Stoppini, 2011.
West Ridge
West Ridge. Snow, TD; 2 days.
  • Tomé pp.48#1
Santa Cruz Grande (Pucaraju, Pico de Huaylas)-8.893976-77.7089746241
Highest peak of Santa Cruz area. Despite of this, not overly often climbed because there is no easy route to the summit. One further reason for this is that the peak is not easily seen. Massif running generally from South to North, located to the north of Quebrada Santa Cruz and to the East of lagunas Yuracoccha, Cuillicoccha and Rajucolta. All routes are difficult. West ridge is the most commonly climbed route, although access to south face is much shorter.
1948-07-20
Santa Cruz Grande, Swiss Route,
First ascent		Swiss Route: F. Marmilloz & A. Szepessy
1977-05-31
Santa Cruz Grande, French Route,
First ascent		French Route: R. Ghillini & Prud'homme
1977-05-31
Santa Cruz Grande, North Ridge,
First ascent		North Ridge: N. Jaeger
1977-08-12
Santa Cruz Grande, SW Ridge,
First ascent		SW Ridge: Sepp Gloggner & Peter Gloggner & Fritz Niedermaier
1977-08-14
Santa Cruz Grande, German Route,
First ascent		German Route: Hans Gloggner, Alfred Müller & Walter Janner
1978-06-15
Santa Cruz Grande, South face direct,
First ascent		South face direct: N. Jaeger
1980-06-08
Santa Cruz Grande, West Ridge,
First ascent		West Ridge: K. Hadley, R. Matons & M Wells
1980-08-05
Santa Cruz Grande, SW Face,
First ascent		SW Face: J.M.Lang, B.Douillet & P.Sombardier
1984-08-04
Santa Cruz Grande, Ecuadorian Route,
First ascent		Ecuadorian Route: Navarrete & Suarez
  • Biggar 2005 pp.60-1
  • Kiendler pp.45-6
TD.
North side
French Route (Cara NE). TD; 800m. 1977-05-31First ascentR. Ghillini & Prud'homme, 1977-05-31.
On the left-hand side of the face.
Swiss Route (NE Face, Ruta Suiza, Cara NE & Arista N). Snow/ice, D+/TD; 50-55°; 900m, 10-12h. 1948-07-20First ascentF. Marmilloz & A. Szepessy, 1948-07-20.
First ascent route. From Lag. Jancarurish to the base of the climb (bergschrund at 5600m), then along steep right slanting ramp to N Ridge which is gained at approx. 6100m, then along the ridge to the summit.
  • Tomé pp.49#3
  • Sharman pp.19
  • Bohórquez #29
North Ridge (Arista Norte). TD; 800m, 7,5h. 1977-05-31First ascentN. Jaeger, 1977-05-31.
From the col between Santa Cruz Chico and Santa Cruz Grande along the ridge to the summit.
East ridge
Unclimbed. Attempt by Italian party is covered in AAJ 2012.
South side
Big remote face featuring almost 1000m on steep snow and ice with no easy way off. There are two other routes, Ecuatoriana (ED, 1200m) and Alemana (TD, 900m). Furthermore, SW Ridge is also possible from this side of the mountain.
Ecuadorian Route (Cara SE). Mixed, TD+; AI4/85°, VI; 1200m. 1984-08-04First ascentNavarrete & Suarez, 1984-08-04.
German Route (cara Sur). TD-; 900m. 1977-08-14First ascentHans Gloggner, Alfred Müller & Walter Janner, 1977-08-14.
South face direct (Jaeger, Cara S directa). Snow/rock, TD-; 900m, 10-12h from bergschrund. 1978-06-15First ascentN. Jaeger, 1978-06-15.
50-60° face with 200m of steep mixed ground. From Quebrada Paccharuri with high camp on the edge of the glacier (5000m, 3-4h from the base camp).
West side
SW Ridge (Arista SO). Snow/ice, D+; 55-60°; 900m. 1977-08-12First ascentSepp Gloggner & Peter Gloggner & Fritz Niedermaier, 1977-08-12.
From lagos Yuraccocha via SW Face runnels (55-60°) to ridge (@5600m, 300m). Along the mixed ridge (40°) to the summit.
SW Face (Cara SO). TD/ED-; 70-80°; 1000m. 1980-08-05First ascentJ.M.Lang, B.Douillet & P.Sombardier, 1980-08-05.
Face between West and SW ridges. Route follows the left-hand side of the face. not too far away from the West Ridge.
West Ridge (American route, Arista Oeste). Snow/ice, D+; 50-60°; 900m, 12-16h from the base of the ridge; 2-3 days from Yuraccocha. 1980-06-08First ascentK. Hadley, R. Matons & M Wells, 1980-06-08.
Normal route. Most commonly climbed route on Santa Cruz Grande. From lagos Yuraccocha. High camp on the col between Quebrada Yuraccocha and Quebrada Rajucolta, near the base of the ridge (5300m, 2-3h from the BC). Passing the ice wall on the right via runnel (55-60°). Conditions vary greatly from year to year.
Abasraju-8.90032-77.683215785
1978-06-13
Abasraju, East Face,
First ascent		East Face: Nicolas Jaeger
1998-07-30
Abasraju, SW Face,
First ascent		SW Face: D. Rodríguez & López
East Face (Cara Este)
East Face (Cara Este). Snow/rock, TD; 700m, 1-2 days. 1978-06-13First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1978-06-13.
Reportedly very serious.
SW Face (Cara SO)
SW Face (Cara SO). Snow/rock, ED; 85°; 450m, 1 day. 1998-07-30First ascentD. Rodríguez & López, 1998-07-30.
  • Tomé pp.51
  • Bohórquez #35

Quitaraju

Quitaraju (Kitaraju)-8.89510-77.664856036
Located above the Santa Cruz valley, immediately southeast of Alpamayo. Can be climbed from the col camp (5300m) between Quitaraju and Alpamayo (either North Face or W Ridge). Not nearly as popular as Alpamayo.
1936-06-17
Quitaraju, West Ridge,
First ascent		West Ridge: A. Awerzger & E. Schneider
1964-07-11
Quitaraju, North Face,
First ascent		North Face: E. Cotter, D. McKay, M. Nelson
1969-07-06
Quitaraju, Cara E & Arista SE,
First ascent		Cara E & Arista SE: H. Saler, H. Schmidt, B. Scheckenbach, K. Scheckenbach, H. Susselmilch & W. Weinzierl
1976-07-07
Quitaraju, Cara O-NO,
First ascent		Cara O-NO: R. Gilbert & P. Kellerman
1979-06-02
Quitaraju, Arista O integral,
First ascent		Arista O integral: M. Meden, M. Tarkus, E. Maryam, M. Zumoskav & J. Flasker
1986-01-01
Quitaraju, Slovenian Route,
First ascent		Slovenian Route: Slavko Sveticic & Z.Trusnovec
1986-05-11
Quitaraju, Cara Este,
First ascent		Cara Este: D. Tic & M. Romih
1988-07-04
Quitaraju, North Face Direct,
First ascent		North Face Direct: F. Vicencio & A. Vogel
2001-01-01
Quitaraju, Central Buttress Direttissima,
First ascent		Central Buttress Direttissima: Nick Bullock & Al Powell
  • Biggar 2005 pp.61-62
  • Kiendler pp.46-8
AD/D.
North side
North Face (Cara Norte, Arista Oeste, Cara Norte). Snow/rock, D-; 55° (last 50m, mostly 50°)°; 400/650m, 3-5h (face only). 1964-07-11First ascentE. Cotter, D. McKay, M. Nelson, 1964-07-11.
Classic. On the right side of central rock rib to the summit ridge some 80m to the west of the summit. From col camp between Alpamayo and Quitaraju to the bergschrund (1-2h).
    North Face Direct. D; 60-65°; 700m. 1988-07-04First ascentF. Vicencio & A. Vogel, 1988-07-04.
    700m ice climb with constant angle 60° from col camp between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. More of a variation of North Face rather than an independent line.
    • Bohórquez #40a
    West Ridge (Cara Norte, Arista Oeste, Arista Oeste). Snow, AD; 60°; 400/650m, 4-7h. 1936-06-17First ascentA. Awerzger & E. Schneider, 1936-06-17.
    Normal route, classic. Easiest route, however sustained and longer than north face. From Alpamayo Col Camp to Quitaraju-Loyacjirca col via North Flank (at first 40-45° last 200m 55°), then along the ridge to the summit.
    • Johnson pp.46-47
    • Tomé pp.55#2
    • Sharman pp.22
    • Bohórquez #42
    East Face
    Cara Este. 50-60°; 800m, 3h. 1986-05-11First ascentD. Tic & M. Romih, 1986-05-11.
    • Bohórquez #40
    Cara E & Arista SE. Snow/rock, TD+; 800m, 2-3 days. 1969-07-06First ascentH. Saler, H. Schmidt, B. Scheckenbach, K. Scheckenbach, H. Susselmilch & W. Weinzierl, 1969-07-06.
    South Face (Cara Sur)
    Slovenian Route. Snow/rock, TD; 50-80°; 800m, 16h. 1986-01-01First ascentSlavko Sveticic & Z.Trusnovec, 1986.
    • Tomé pp.55#3
    • Sharman pp.23
    • Bohórquez #45
    Central Buttress Direttissima. ED2; Sco VII,7/VI/WI6+/110°; 800m, 21h. 2001-01-01First ascentNick Bullock & Al Powell, 2001.
    • Bohórquez #46
    West ridge
    Arista O integral. 1979-06-02First ascentM. Meden, M. Tarkus, E. Maryam, M. Zumoskav & J. Flasker, 1979-06-02.
    • Bohórquez #44
    NW face
    Cara O-NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 90, 60-70°, V; 900m. 1976-07-07First ascentR. Gilbert & P. Kellerman, 1976-07-07.
    Alpamayo-8.879167-77.6536675947
    Steep, beautifully shaped fluted pyramid of ice, known as the most beautiful mountain in the world.Today almost solely climbed via SW Face (especially Canal Central on the leftern part of the face(AD+/D to summit ridge, very few actually make the traverse to main summit)).
    1900-01-01
    Alpamayo, ,
    Event    		 J. Jongen, G. Kogan, R. Leninger & M. Lenoir D. Bathgate & R. Smith
    1900-01-01
    Alpamayo, possible,
    Event    		 possible: R. Rield & R. Pöltner R. Renoir, Susana, J. Gálvez & A.G. Bohórquez
    1951-01-01
    Alpamayo, French-Belgian expedition claimed to have made the first ascent in 1951 via North Ridge. After studying the photos in the 1951 book by Georges Kogan et al.,
    Event    		French-Belgian expedition claimed to have made the first ascent in 1951 via North Ridge. After studying the photos in the 1951 book by Georges Kogan et al.: 'The Ascent of Alpamayo' the German team (G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann) came into coclusion, that the 1951 team did not reach the actual summit.
    1957-01-01
    Alpamayo, South Ridge,
    First ascent    		South Ridge: G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann
    1966-07-20
    Alpamayo, West Ridge,
    First ascent    		West Ridge: M. Steinbeis & P. Gessner
    1968-07-21
    Alpamayo, Variante al collado de la arista N,
    First ascent    		Variante al collado de la arista N: L. Irwin, B. Jenkinson, D. Drake & G. Hodsworth
    1969-06-26
    Alpamayo, East Ridge,
    First ascent    		East Ridge: H. Schmidt & W. Weinzerl
    1970-07-06
    Alpamayo, NE face,
    First ascent    		NE face: J. Jolly & J. Stanton
    1975-06-20
    Alpamayo, Ferrari,
    First ascent    		Ferrari: Casimiro Ferrari P. Negri A. Zoia D. Borgonovo P. Castelnovo S. Liati
    1979-06-05
    Alpamayo, Yugoslav route,
    First ascent    		Yugoslav route: T. Cesen, M. Dolenc, P. Markic & Z. Trusnovic
    1979-07-01
    Alpamayo, American route,
    First ascent    		American route: R. Wyatt & D. Jenkins
    1985-08-27
    Alpamayo, Cara SO,
    First ascent    		Cara SO: O. Ceballos & R. Yepes
    1993-06-28
    Alpamayo, Vasco-Francesa,
    First ascent    		Vasco-Francesa: A. & S. Cayrol, A. Monasterio, J.L. Domeño, B. Gartzia & S. Domínguez
    1998-07-17
    Alpamayo, Hispano-Chilena,
    First ascent    		Hispano-Chilena: G. Alvarado & C. Cabeza
    2002-08-08
    Alpamayo, Cara SO,
    First ascent    		Cara SO: J. Escruela & T. Tain
    • Radehose pp.90
    • Biggar 2005 pp.62-63
    • Kiendler pp.43-5
    AD/D.
    North side
    North Ridge (Arista Norte). Snow/rock, D (summit ridge, true summit TD); 45-60°; 1500-1600m, 14-16h. 1966-07-09First ascentD. Bathgate & R. Smith, 1966-07-09.
    First ascent route. From Lag. Jancarunish in Quebrada de los Cedros via col Norte (5670m). Also possible from col camp (5300m). Not commonly used because of high objective risk. However, the route does not suffer from crowd-generated risks. .
    Variante al collado de la arista N. 19h. 1968-07-21First ascentL. Irwin, B. Jenkinson, D. Drake & G. Hodsworth, 1968-07-21.
    • Bohórquez #54
    NE side
    NE face (Cara NE). Snow/rock, D/D+; 900m. 1970-07-06First ascentJ. Jolly & J. Stanton, 1970-07-06.
    • Tomé pp.64#13
    • Sharman pp.25
    • Bohórquez #65
    SE side
    East Ridge (Arista Este). Snow/rock, TD; 900m, 3-4 days. 1969-06-26First ascentH. Schmidt & W. Weinzerl, 1969-06-26.
    via col 5200m between Alpamayo and Pucarashta Oeste. Also possible from laguna Quitaracsa.
    Yugoslav route (Kranji route, Ruta Eslovena, Cara SE). Snow/rock, TD; 65-80°; 800m, 15h. 1979-06-05First ascentT. Cesen, M. Dolenc, P. Markic & Z. Trusnovic, 1979-06-05.
    American route (Ruta Americana, Cara SE). Snow/rock, TD; 65-80°; 800m, 2 days. 1979-07-01First ascentR. Wyatt & D. Jenkins, 1979-07.
    Starts to the left of Yugoslav route, then crosses over it.
    South ridge
    Over the years the nomenclature of routes as become confused to the extent that until recently every publication, guide or reference source has mistakenly attributed the Ferrari Route to another line. The classic and very frequented 350m AD+ runnel, which is commonly referred to as the Ferrari Route and leads to the North Ridge left of the summit is, in fact, the Canal Central.
    South Ridge (Arista Sur). Snow/rock, TD; 400m, 2 days from col camp. 1957-01-01First ascentG. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957.
    • Tomé pp.62#9
    • Sharman pp.25
    • Bohórquez #61
    SW face (Cara SO)
    Today Alpamayo is almost solely climbed via SW Face (especially Route canal route on the leftern part (AD+/D). Other runnels on the southwest face have been climbed as well (about TD). Basque-French is located furthest to the left, then is Route canal, then Peruvian-Canadian (1988) and on the right Ferrari (often erroneously known as French direct).
    Cara SO. D; 60-80°; 300m. 1985-08-27First ascentO. Ceballos & R. Yepes, 1985-08-27.
    • Bohórquez #55a
    Vasco-Francesa (Basque-French). Snow, D; 60-75°; 300m, 5-8h. 1993-06-28First ascentA. & S. Cayrol, A. Monasterio, J.L. Domeño, B. Gartzia & S. Domínguez, 1993-06-28.
    Slightly steeper and icier than the central couloir but less prone to falling debris from both fragile flutings and other climbers. The only disadvantage is that the traverse to the summit is that much longer.
    • Tomé pp.61#5
    • Bohórquez #56
    Canal central. Snow, AD+; 60-75°/Sco III; 300m, 4-6h. 1979-07-15First ascentpossible: R. Rield & R. Pöltner, 1979-07-15.1983-01-01First ascentR. Renoir, Susana, J. Gálvez & A.G. Bohórquez, 1983.
    Normal route, classic. Most often climbed route on Alpamayo. The classic 350m AD+ runnel, which is commonly referred to as the Ferrari Route and leads to the North Ridge left of the summit. Most climbers do not traverse to the true summit (D/TD). Too crowded for its own good. The route is generally equipped for rappel descent. Objectively dangerous as the climb is ice fall endangered both on approach to the col camp on on route itself (route ascends straight runnel with no place to cover against falling ice).
    • Johnson pp.50-51
    • Tomé pp.61#6
    • Kiendler #B2
    • Bohórquez #57
    Cara SO. Snow, ED; 95, 45-60°; 400m. 2002-08-08First ascentJ. Escruela & T. Tain, 2002-08-08.
    • Bohórquez #58
    Ferrari. Snow/ice, D+/TD; 50-65°; 400m from the bergschrund (8 pitches). 1975-06-20First ascent Casimiro Ferrari P. Negri A. Zoia D. Borgonovo P. Castelnovo S. Liati , 1975-06-20.
    Classic. Two runnels to the right of Canal central, following the couloir almost directly from the lowest point of the rimaye to summit. Referred to as French Direct (Directa Francesa).
    • Tomé pp.61#7
    • Sharman pp.25
    • Bohórquez #59
    Hispano-Chilena. Snow/rock, TD; 85°; 400m. 1998-07-17First ascentG. Alvarado & C. Cabeza, 1998-07-17.
    • Tomé pp.62#8
    West ridge
    West Ridge (Arista Oeste, Arista ONO). Snow, TD; 500m. 1966-07-20First ascentM. Steinbeis & P. Gessner, 1966-07-20.
    Tayapampa-8.853948-77.6581485675
    Several routes between PD and AD+, 700-1100m and 1-2 days.
    1966-07-11
    Tayapampa, Pendientes Oeste,
    First ascent    		Pendientes Oeste: R. Goody & D. Morton
    1968-07-26
    Tayapampa, South ridge,
    First ascent    		South ridge: J. Ricker & N. von Tunzelmann
    1970-07-13
    Tayapampa, East ridge,
    First ascent    		East ridge: Wilson & Stanton
    1974-06-18
    Tayapampa, North face,
    First ascent    		North face: M. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne
    1976-07-01
    Tayapampa, North ridge,
    First ascent    		North ridge: R. Bilbert, B. Gilbert, M. Blatter & P. Kelemen
    1976-07-01
    Tayapampa, Arista Norte,
    First ascent    		Arista Norte: R. Gilbert, P. Gilbert, M. Blatter & P. Kelemen
    • Tomé pp.65#1-5
    • Sharman pp.27
    North ridge
    North ridge. PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1976-07-01First ascentR. Bilbert, B. Gilbert, M. Blatter & P. Kelemen, 1976-07.
    Arista Norte
    Arista Norte. 1976-07-01First ascentR. Gilbert, P. Gilbert, M. Blatter & P. Kelemen, 1976-07.
    • Bohórquez #75
    North face
    North face. AD+; 55-60°; 700m, 2 days. 1974-06-18First ascentM. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne, 1974-06-18.
    East ridge
    East ridge. PD-; 700m, 2 days. 1970-07-13First ascentWilson & Stanton, 1970-07-13.
    South ridge
    South ridge (Espolón SE). PD; 700m, 1 day. 1968-07-26First ascentJ. Ricker & N. von Tunzelmann, 1968-07-26.
    West side
    Pendientes Oeste. 1966-07-11First ascentR. Goody & D. Morton, 1966-07-11.
    Jankarurish (Jancarurish)-8.864549-77.6553585601
    Located to the north of Alpamayo between Quebrada Alpamayo and Quebrada de los Cedros.
    1965-08-15
    Jankarurish, Arista Norte,
    First ascent    		Arista Norte: A. Ames & F. Mantino
    1970-07-12
    Jankarurish, Arista Sur,
    First ascent    		Arista Sur: P. Glasgow & P. Gough
    1973-06-18
    Jankarurish, Cara SE,
    First ascent    		Cara SE: W. Fiut & P. Malinowski
    1980-08-14
    Jankarurish, Arista Este,
    First ascent    		Arista Este: H. Gregoritsch & H. Barnthaler
    Arista Norte
    Arista Norte (North ridge). Glacier, AD; 900m, 1 day. 1965-08-15First ascentA. Ames & F. Mantino, 1965-08-15.
    Via Jancarurish-Tayapampa col.
    Arista Este
    Arista Este (East ridge). Glacier, PD; 50°; 900m, 1 day. 1980-08-14First ascentH. Gregoritsch & H. Barnthaler, 1980-08-14.
    Cara SE
    Cara SE (SE face). Snow/rock, AD; 900m, 1 day. 1973-06-18First ascentW. Fiut & P. Malinowski, 1973-06-18.
    • Tomé pp.64#3
    • Sharman pp.27
    • Bohórquez #67
    Arista Sur
    Arista Sur (South ridge). Glacier, AD+; 900m, 1 day. 1970-07-12First ascentP. Glasgow & P. Gough, 1970-07-12.
    Via Alpamayo-Jankarurish col (5670m).
    • Tomé pp.64#4
    • NZAJ 1971
    • Sharman pp.27
    • Bohórquez #68
    Loyajirca (Quitaraju Norte)-8.88489-77.673095600
    Located on North ridge of Quitaraju
    1957-06-22
    Loyajirca, Cara SE,
    First ascent    		Cara SE: B. Huhn & F. Knaus
    1964-07-10
    Loyajirca, Cara SE,
    First ascent    		Cara SE: E. Cotter, D. McKay & M. Nelson
    1972-06-21
    Loyajirca, Cara NE,
    First ascent    		Cara NE: J. Colomer, M. Martín, M. velasco, P. Xaus & F. Sabat
    1977-05-01
    Loyajirca, Arista Norte,
    First ascent    		Arista Norte: N. jaeger, R. Ghillini & B. Prud'homme
    North side
    Ridge leading towards laguna Jancarurish and dividing the valley into two branches.
    Arista Norte. 1977-05-01First ascentN. jaeger, R. Ghillini & B. Prud'homme, 1977-05.
    • Bohórquez #37
    East side
    Cara NE. 1972-06-21First ascentJ. Colomer, M. Martín, M. velasco, P. Xaus & F. Sabat, 1972-06-21.
    • Bohórquez #36
    Cara SE. F. 1957-06-22First ascentB. Huhn & F. Knaus, 1957-06-22.
    • Bohórquez #38
    Cara SE. 1964-07-10First ascentE. Cotter, D. McKay & M. Nelson, 1964-07-10.
    • Bohórquez #39
    Quisuaraju (Arhuaycaca, Arhueykaka)-8.907713-77.6470045380
    Lesser peak on SE ridge of Quitaraju. Spectacular vista towards the peaks of quebrada Santa Cruz. Well suited for acclimatization.
    1965-01-01
    Quisuaraju, East face,
    First ascent    		East face: E. Ángeles, B. Boller, E. Steiger, G. Steiger, R. Schatz
    East face
    East face. F; II-III; 1000m, 0,5 days. 1965-01-01First ascentE. Ángeles, B. Boller, E. Steiger, G. Steiger, R. Schatz, 1965.
    • Tomé pp.58
    • Bohórquez #51, #52

    Pucajircas

    Pucajirca

    Pucajirca (Pukahirka, Pucajirca Norte I)-8.8557-77.59566046
    1961-06-12
    Pucajirca, ,
    First ascent    		J. Nagakawa, J. Nakazima & T. Nakamura
    TD.
    Pucajirca Norte II-8.850302-77.5954066030
    1955-07-14
    Pucajirca Norte II, NW ridge,
    First ascent    		NW ridge: N. Clinch & A Kauffman
    1974-06-24
    Pucajirca Norte II, Arista Unión,
    First ascent    		Arista Unión: M. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne
    Arista NO
    NW ridge (Arista NO). Snow, TD; 900m. 1955-07-14First ascentN. Clinch & A Kauffman, 1955-07-14.
    Same as SE ridge of Pucajirca Norte III until the col between Norte II and Norte III.
    Arista Unión (Arista NO)
    Arista Unión. TD; 800m. 1974-06-24First ascentM. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne, 1974-06-24.
    NW ridge of Pucajirca Norte III, then traverse to Norte II.
    Pucajirca Central-8.8665-77.59926014
    1961-06-13
    Pucajirca Central, Arista SO,
    First ascent    		Arista SO: G. Dionisi, G. Harchese, L. Ghigo & M. Fechio
    1977-07-08
    Pucajirca Central, Cara SE, arista E,
    First ascent    		Cara SE, arista E: J. Glidden, R. Gocking, L. Ortenburger & B. Cox
    1980-01-01
    Pucajirca Central, Cara Oeste,
    First ascent    		Cara Oeste: M. Curnis, A. Azzopni, A. Bianchetti, A. Bonicelli, R. Fassi, D. Rota, G. Scarpelini, P. Nava & U. Testa
    1982-07-07
    Pucajirca Central, Cara NE,
    First ascent    		Cara NE: Marino Giacometti & Battista Scanabessi
    Cara NE
    Cara NE. Snow/rock, D/TD; 70°; 600m, 3 days. 1982-07-07First ascentMarino Giacometti & Battista Scanabessi, 1982-07-07.
    Arista Este
    Cara SE, arista E. Snow/rock, TD+; 1000m. 1977-07-08First ascentJ. Glidden, R. Gocking, L. Ortenburger & B. Cox, 1977-07-08.
    West side
    Arista SO. Snow, TD; 55-90°; 600m. 1961-06-13First ascentG. Dionisi, G. Harchese, L. Ghigo & M. Fechio, 1961-06-13.
    Cara Oeste. 1980-01-01First ascentM. Curnis, A. Azzopni, A. Bianchetti, A. Bonicelli, R. Fassi, D. Rota, G. Scarpelini, P. Nava & U. Testa, 1980.
    • Bohórquez #85
    Pucajirca Norte III5919
    1955-07-12
    Pucajirca Norte III, SE ridge,
    First ascent    		SE ridge: R. Hopponen & H. Walton
    1974-06-24
    Pucajirca Norte III, Cara NO,
    First ascent    		Cara NO: M. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne
    SE Ridge
    SE ridge (Arista SE). Snow, TD; 850m. 1955-07-12First ascentR. Hopponen & H. Walton, 1955-07-12.
    NW face
    Cara NO. TD; 57°; 700m, 9h. 3-4 days round trip. 1974-06-24First ascentM. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne, 1974-06-24.
    Pucajirca Oeste II5900
    SE ridge
    SE Ridge. TD; 800m, 3 days.

    Pucajirca Sur

    Pucajirca Oeste-8.872479-77.6081946039
    1970-06-16
    Pucajirca Oeste, South buttress,
    First ascent    		South buttress: J. Glasgow, P. Gough, J. Stanton, H.D. Wilson & D. White
    South side
    South buttress (Arista O, Espolón O). TD; 800m. 1970-06-16First ascentJ. Glasgow, P. Gough, J. Stanton, H.D. Wilson & D. White, 1970-06-16.
    Pucajirca Sur-8.8724-77.61076039
    1936-07-01
    Pucajirca Sur, Arista Sur,
    First ascent    		Arista Sur: E. Schneider
    1991-07-20
    Pucajirca Sur, Arista SO,
    First ascent    		Arista SO: D.M. Sharman & D.A. Thoma
    Arista Sur
    Arista Sur. Snow, D+; 1000m, 8-10h. 1936-07-01First ascentE. Schneider, 1936-07-01.
    Much easier to reach than the climbs of Pucajirca Norte.
    • Tomé pp.73#1
    • Sharman pp.28
    • Bohórquez #87
    Arista SO
    Arista SO. D+/TD; 80, 60-65°; 1000m, 8.10h. 1991-07-20First ascentD.M. Sharman & D.A. Thoma, 1991-07-20.
    Rinrijirca-8.887531-77.6046325810
    1900-01-01
    Rinrijirca, East Ridge,
    First ascent    		East Ridge: Unknown
    1960-06-29
    Rinrijirca, North ridge,
    First ascent    		North ridge: S. Calegari, A. Farino & O. Rosetti
    1982-05-28
    Rinrijirca, South face,
    First ascent    		South face: A. Paleari
    1986-05-20
    Rinrijirca, SE face,
    First ascent    		SE face: R. Payne & M. Hair
    North Ridge (Cara NE & Arista Norte)
    North ridge (Cara NE & Arista Norte). Snow/rock, TD; 500m from Taulliraju-Rinrihirca col. 1960-06-29First ascentS. Calegari, A. Farino & O. Rosetti, 1960-06-29.
    Via Taulliraju-Rinrihirca col (5300m).
    East ridge (Arista Este)
    East Ridge. Snow, AD+; 2 days. 1900-01-01First ascentUnknown.
    • Tomé pp.77#2
    • Sharman pp.32
    • Bohórquez #103
    South Face
    SE face (Cara SE & Arista E). D; 1000m, 7-9h. 1986-05-20First ascentR. Payne & M. Hair, 1986-05-20.
    South face (Cara Sur). Snow/rock, TD; 80°; 1000m from the glacier, 6h. 1982-05-28First ascentA. Paleari, 1982-05-28.
    Pucrapucraraju-8.8779-77.60605790
    1960-07-09
    Pucrapucraraju, Cara NE & Arista N,
    First ascent    		Cara NE & Arista N: S. Galegari, A. Farina, N. Poloni & O Rossetti
    1972-08-03
    Pucrapucraraju, Cara NE,
    First ascent    		Cara NE: B. Miller & T. McCrumm
    North side
    Cara NE & Arista N. 1960-07-09First ascentS. Galegari, A. Farina, N. Poloni & O Rossetti, 1960-07-09.
    • Bohórquez #98
    Cara NE. 1972-08-03First ascentB. Miller & T. McCrumm, 1972-08-03.
    • Bohórquez #99
    Curicashajana-8.8969-77.61195510
    1965-08-05
    Curicashajana, West face,
    First ascent    		West face: F. Comtesse, G. Hartmann, H. Reiss & M. Spoerry
    1991-07-13
    Curicashajana, SE face,
    First ascent    		SE face: M. Davie
    SE face
    SE face. AD; 65°; 1000m, 2 days. 1991-07-13First ascentM. Davie, 1991-07-13.
    West face
    West face. PD+; 1000m, 2 days. 1965-08-05First ascentF. Comtesse, G. Hartmann, H. Reiss & M. Spoerry, 1965-08-05.

    Pucarashta

    Pucarashta Este (Mushoq Shipash)5700
    1974-06-15
    Pucarashta Este, West ridge,
    First ascent    		West ridge: M. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne
    1991-06-20
    Pucarashta Este, South ridge,
    First ascent    		South ridge: P. Moorey & M. Davie
    • Tomé pp.75-6
    • Sharman pp.29-31
    South ridge
    South ridge (Cara Sur). TD/ED; V+, 80°; 550m, 10h. 1991-06-20First ascentP. Moorey & M. Davie, 1991-06-20.
    West ridge
    West ridge (Arista O). D+; 1000m, 3 days. 1974-06-15First ascentM. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne, 1974-06-15.
    Pucarashta Central-8.8770-77.62685650
    1968-07-28
    Pucarashta Central, North ridge,
    First ascent    		North ridge: M. Ricker & N. von Tunzelman
    1980-07-01
    Pucarashta Central, West ridge,
    First ascent    		West ridge: N Kekus & D. Howard
    1991-06-16
    Pucarashta Central, South face,
    First ascent    		South face: P. Moorey, M. Davie & S. Di Ponio
    • Tomé pp.75-6
    • Sharman pp.29-31
    North side
    North ridge. AD; 1000m, 1 days. 1968-07-28First ascentM. Ricker & N. von Tunzelman, 1968-07-28.
    South side
    South face. TD-; 75°, IV; 700m, 1 days. 1991-06-16First ascentP. Moorey, M. Davie & S. Di Ponio, 1991-06-16.
    West side
    West ridge. TD+; 1700m, 2-3 days. 1980-07-01First ascentN Kekus & D. Howard, 1980-07.
    Pucarashta Oeste5450
    1961-06-19
    Pucarashta Oeste, SW face,
    First ascent    		SW face: S. Lee & N. Kemp
    1991-06-15
    Pucarashta Oeste, SE face,
    First ascent    		SE face: N.J. Kemp, D.A. Thomas & D.M. Sharman
    • Tomé pp.75-6
    • Sharman pp.29-31
    South side
    SE face. D-; 40-60°; 450m, 4h. 1991-06-15First ascentN.J. Kemp, D.A. Thomas & D.M. Sharman, 1991-06-15.
    SW face. D+; III; 500m, 6-8h. 1961-06-19First ascentS. Lee & N. Kemp, 1961-06-19.

    Taulliraju

    Taulliraju (Tawllirahu)-8.893552-77.578345830
    1956-08-18
    Taulliraju, North face,
    First ascent    		North face: M. Davaille, C. Gaudin, R. Sennelier, P. Souriac & L. Terray
    1976-08-01
    Taulliraju, Japanese Route,
    First ascent    		Japanese Route: Mizobuchi, Nagashino & Yoda
    1978-05-31
    Taulliraju, SSE ridge,
    First ascent    		SSE ridge: J.P. Balmat, D. Monaci, H. Thivierge, J. Fabre
    1979-06-09
    Taulliraju, via Jaeger,
    First ascent    		via Jaeger: Nicolas Jaeger
    1979-07-29
    Taulliraju, North face,
    First ascent    		North face: P. Busch & J. Baja
    1980-08-01
    Taulliraju, via Italiana,
    First ascent    		via Italiana: Gianni Calcagno, Piero Perona, Ugo Vialardi, Constantino Piazzo, Tulio Vidoni & Stefano DeBenedetti
    1982-05-26
    Taulliraju, via Fowler - Watts,
    First ascent    		via Fowler - Watts: Mick Fowler & Chris Watts
    1993-07-01
    Taulliraju, WSW face,
    First ascent    		WSW face: M. Donozo, G. Pizarro & D. Pizarro
    2016-06-01
    Taulliraju, West ridge,
    First ascent    		West ridge: Ben Dare, Steve Skelton
    2016-06-01
    Taulliraju, West ridge,
    First ascent    		West ridge: Steve Fortune, Alastair McDowell, Measures, Rose Pearson
    North ridge
    North ridge. ED; 1500m.
    North side
    North face (Cara N & arista NE). Snow/rock, TD; 5.8,A1, 60°; 500/1500m. 1956-08-18First ascentM. Davaille, C. Gaudin, R. Sennelier, P. Souriac & L. Terray, 1956-08-18.
    From Taulliraju-Rinrijirca col via North Face and North East Ridge.
    North face (Cara N). Mixed, ED; 1500m. 1979-07-29First ascentP. Busch & J. Baja, 1979-07-29.
    • Tomé pp.78#2
    • Sharman pp.32
    • Bohórquez #108
    East face
    • Taulliraju, East Face. Riding a bike three days from Carhuaz (2650m) to Punta Olimpica (4890m) sounded like a fast and simple method of acclimatization. Two hours after Matej Flis, Tadej Golob and I departed, though, I realized once more there are no shortcuts in alpinism. By Grega Lacen at Alpinist on 2006-11-27.
    West ridge. 5.10b, M5 AI5. 2016-06-01First ascentBen Dare, Steve Skelton, 2016-06.
      SSE ridge
      Long ridge towards Punta Union. There are several cols and bumbs on the long ridge. Col between Taulliraju and Contrafuerte (5300m), Contrafuerte (Torreón, 5400), Taulliraju Sur (5400m) and Tuctubamba (5240m).
      Japanese Route. ED1; 5.7, WI4; 650m. 1976-08-01First ascentMizobuchi, Nagashino & Yoda, 1976-08.
      via Jaeger. Mixed, ED1; 800m, 8h. 1979-06-09First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1979-06-09.
      Climbs the couloir to the right of South face East Buttress to join SSE ridge for the upper half of the climb.
      SSE ridge (Arista S-SE, French Guides' Route, Vía de los Guías de Chamonix). Snow, TD+/ED1; 70-85°; 800m, 17h. 1978-05-31First ascentJ.P. Balmat, D. Monaci, H. Thivierge, J. Fabre, 1978-05-31.
      Together with North face the easiest route. Long sections of ice at 60° steepest parts 70-85°. Very long ridge that climbs to the ridge close to Taulliraju Sur (5400m), then climbs the long ridge in its entity. Jaeger route is essentially a huge shortcut as is "South Buttress variant to South South East Ridge" (Gleizes, Gryska & Prom 1998-07, 400m, TD, WI4+ M4).
      SW face (Cara SO, South side)
      Most commonly climbed site, although all routes are very difficult (several hard mixed routes, TD-ED).
      WSW face (Argentinian Route, El Tajo). ED2; 5.10d,A3/VII,A3, 60-80°; 650m, 24h. 1993-07-01First ascentM. Donozo, G. Pizarro & D. Pizarro, 1993-07.
      via Italiana (Italian route, West Buttress Original Route, Espolón O de la cara SO). Snow/mixed, VI ED2; 5.9,A1, VI/WI6 M6/75-80°; 900m. 1980-08-01First ascentGianni Calcagno, Piero Perona, Ugo Vialardi, Constantino Piazzo, Tulio Vidoni & Stefano DeBenedetti, 1980-08.
      Classic. Climbs the SW Buttress in its entity while "Via Fowler/American" (TD+/ED WI4) and "via Canadiense/Quebec" (TD+ 85°) avoid the start the buttress by climbing ice on the face of the SW buttress to climb the upper SW Buttress. "Via Fowler" by Charlie Fowler is not to be mixed up with "via Fowler - Watts".
      • Johnson pp.52-53
      • Tomé pp.78#4
      • Sharman pp.35
      • Mountain Info, #498 issue: 16, date: 2006-06.
      via Fowler - Watts (South Face East Buttress, Via Fowler, East Buttress Original Route). Mixed, ED3; V,A3+, AI6; 800m. 1982-05-26First ascentMick Fowler & Chris Watts, 1982-05-26.
      New Zealand start (5.10 WI5 A1+).
      West ridge
      West ridge. 5.8, AI5 M4. 2016-06-01First ascentSteve Fortune, Alastair McDowell, Measures, Rose Pearson, 2016-06.
        Taulliraju Sur-8.900251-77.574725400
        Located on SSE ridge of Taulliraju
        2001-01-01
        Taulliraju Sur, Middle Earth,
        First ascent        		Middle Earth: Donahue & Donahue
        • Taulliraju, East Face. Riding a bike three days from Carhuaz (2650m) to Punta Olimpica (4890m) sounded like a fast and simple method of acclimatization. Two hours after Matej Flis, Tadej Golob and I departed, though, I realized once more there are no shortcuts in alpinism. By Grega Lacen at Alpinist on 2006-11-27.
        Taulliraju Sur
        Middle Earth. nccs IV 5.8 WI5; 5.8, WI5; 400m, 1 day. 2001-01-01First ascentDonahue & Donahue, 2001.
        climbs a hidden couloir on the North West Flank of Taulliraju Sur, then continues up the straightforward North West Ridge to the summit.
        Tuctubamba-8.903007-77.5579835240
        Located on SSE ridge of Taulliraju, due east of Taulliraju Sur.
        • Tomé pp.80
        • Bohórquez #124
        • Bohórquez #125
        Pucaraju5090
        • Pucaraju Norte (5090m)
        • Pucaraju Sur (4950m)
        Separated from Taulliraju by Pucaraju-Taulliraju col (4650m). North and south summits are separated by 2km ridge.
        1955-08-21
        Pucaraju, SW slope,
        First ascent        		SW slope: H. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmid
        1973-08-01
        Pucaraju, NW ridge,
        First ascent        		NW ridge: M. Conway & G. Moseley
        • Biggar 2005 pp.60-1
        • Kiendler pp.45-6
        West side
        SW slope. F; II; 800m, 1 day. 1955-08-21First ascentH. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmid, 1955-08-21.
        • Tomé pp.80#1
        • Bohórquez #126
        NW ridge. F; 1 day. 1973-08-01First ascentM. Conway & G. Moseley, 1973-08.

        Huandoy Group

        Huandoy North

        Esfinge

        La Esfinge (The Sphinx, Torre de Paron)-9.0023-77.71515325
        Rocky peaks at the western end of Huandoy northern group. Peak in itself is not particularly important but its South and east faces feature vertical rock walls, which are the largest Big-Wall site in Peru. All routes on the faces are around 750m high and highly technical. NE ridge on the other hand is the least technical route on the valley and therefore well suited as acclimatization climb. Until recently, confusion shrouded this formidable rock bastion regarding its location, history and especially, its name. It has been called, among others: Cerro Colca, Cerro Marron, Cerro Paron, La Roca, La Aguja Nevada, Torre Aguja and Torre de Paron. The latter is the official name of a presumably still unclimbed 4800-meter formation further down valley.
        1900-01-01
        La Esfinge, ,
        Event        		 Bigger & Regan Houlding & Whittaker
        1900-01-01
        La Esfinge, ,
        Event        		 Larry Dolecki & Sean Isaac Hammond & Sellers
        1955-06-26
        La Esfinge, NE side,
        First ascent        		NE side: M. Gradl, A. Koch, H. Huber & H. Schmidt
        1985-07-08
        La Esfinge, 1985 route,
        First ascent        		1985 route: O.P. García & A. Gómez Bohórquez
        1987-08-20
        La Esfinge, Espolón E,
        First ascent        		Espolón E: C. Polanco, M. Olivera, A. Madrid & E. de la Cal
        1987-08-20
        La Esfinge, Volveras a Mi,
        First ascent        		Volveras a Mi: de la Cal, Mardid, Olivera & Polanco
        1988-08-14
        La Esfinge, South face,
        First ascent        		South face: Bohorquez & Vicente
        1996-07-21
        La Esfinge, Ganxets Glacé,
        First ascent        		Ganxets Glacé: E. Ortuño & A. Salvador
        1999-07-01
        La Esfinge, Papa Rellena,
        First ascent        		Papa Rellena: Cruaud, Dovernay & Peyronnard
        2000-05-01
        La Esfinge, Riddle of the Cordillera Blanca,
        First ascent        		Riddle of the Cordillera Blanca: Davis & Offenbacher
        2000-07-01
        La Esfinge, Lobo Estrepario,
        First ascent        		Lobo Estrepario: Cruces
        2000-07-01
        La Esfinge, Todos Narcos,
        First ascent        		Todos Narcos: Fernandez & Lacueva
        2000-07-01
        La Esfinge, Little Fluffy Clouds,
        First ascent        		Little Fluffy Clouds: Dyer & Hammond
        2000-07-01
        La Esfinge, Intuition,
        First ascent        		Intuition: Miyamoto & Sharratt
        2000-07-10
        La Esfinge, Cruz del Sur,
        First ascent        		Cruz del Sur: Mauro Bole & Silvano Karo
        2001-01-01
        La Esfinge, Mecho Taq Inti,
        First ascent        		Mecho Taq Inti: A. Grmovsek, T. Rojs & A. Voglar
        2001-01-01
        La Esfinge, Gringos,
        First ascent        		Gringos: Matrin & Vallone
        2003-01-01
        La Esfinge, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha,
        First ascent        		Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha: Dusan Beranek, Vladimir Linek & Rado Staruch
        NE side
        NE side (Arista NE). Rock, PD; II-III; 800m. 17h roundtrip from laguna Paron. 1955-06-26First ascentM. Gradl, A. Koch, H. Huber & H. Schmidt, 1955-06-26.
        Normal route. The easiest route on La Esfinge, probaly the whole Paron valley. Via col Esfinge-Putaca Chico.
        East face (Cara Este)
        The best known big rock face in Cordillera Blanca. There are several aid and difficult free routes on the face.
        • East face of la esfinge. At Gory online.
        • la Esfinge. At The Desert Alpinist.
        • La Esfinge (The Sphinx). On June 18, Slovaks Dusan Beranek, Rado Staruch and I reached the top of La Esfinge (5325m), having climbed a new route, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha (V 5.13b, 650m, 13 pitches), via the largest slabs on the east face. By Vlado Linek at Alpinist on 2003-12-01.
        • La Esfinge. On June 19 Brian McMahon and I walked away from the north face of Huascuran Norte (6655m): the objective danger was just too high. Someone will climb the north face again, but he or she will likely find a much different experience than Casarotto did on his 1977 solo. Disappointed, but wanting to make the most of our trip, we spent our remaining week climbing on La Esfinge (5325m). By Josh Wharton at Alpinist on 2005-12-01.
        Espolón E. Rock, VI,A3/VI 5.10a A3; 850-900m. 1987-08-20First ascentC. Polanco, M. Olivera, A. Madrid & E. de la Cal, 1987-08-20.
        • Bohórquez #130
        Volveras a Mi. Rock, 5.10a,A3+; 900m. 1987-08-20First ascentde la Cal, Mardid, Olivera & Polanco, 1987-08-20.
        Mecho Taq Inti. Rock, 7b (7a obl.)/6c,A2+; 800m. 2001-01-01First ascentA. Grmovsek, T. Rojs & A. Voglar, 2001.
        Cruz del Sur. Rock, 7c+ (7a obl.); 800m. 2000-07-10First ascentMauro Bole & Silvano Karo, 2000-07-10.
        • Bohórquez #131
        1985 route. Rock, ED/nccs IV-V 5.10d R; VI+,A1/5.10,C1-2/5.11c/6c-/7a/6a,A1(f6c+); 750m, 18 pitches. 1985-07-08First ascentO.P. García & A. Gómez Bohórquez, 1985-07-08.
        Classic. Original route on the face and the most popular big rock route on the whole of Cordillera Blanca. Originally graded 5.11c, but currently the consensus seem to have settled at around 5.10d R.
        Riddle of the Cordillera Blanca. Rock, 5.10+,A3; 750m. 2000-05-01First ascentDavis & Offenbacher, 2000-05.
        Gringos. Rock, 5.12,A3+; 800m. 2001-01-01First ascentMatrin & Vallone, 2001.
        Lobo Estrepario. Rock, 6b,A3; 650m. 2000-07-01First ascentCruces, 2000-07.
        Papa Rellena. Rock, 6c+,A3; 600m. 1999-07-01First ascentCruaud, Dovernay & Peyronnard, 1999-07.
        Here Comes the Sun. Rock, E3 5c,A3/E6 6b; 650m. 2000-01-01First ascentBigger & Regan, 2000.
        Todos Narcos. Rock, 6c,A3; 750m. 2000-07-01First ascentFernandez & Lacueva, 2000-07.
        Little Fluffy Clouds. Rock, E5 5c; 650m. 2000-07-01First ascentDyer & Hammond, 2000-07.
        Ganxets Glacé. Rock, ED-; 6a,A2/VI 5.9 A2; 650m. 1996-07-21First ascentE. Ortuño & A. Salvador, 1996-07-21.
        Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha. Rock, IX/IX+; 650m. 2003-01-01First ascentDusan Beranek, Vladimir Linek & Rado Staruch, 2003.
        Intuition. Rock, 5.12c; 600m. 2000-07-01First ascentMiyamoto & Sharratt, 2000-07.
        Dion’s Dihedral. Rock, 5.9,A3/E5 6b/VI 5.9 A3; 650m. 1999-01-01First ascentLarry Dolecki & Sean Isaac, 1999.
        • Dion's Dihedral - Peruvian Style Big Wall Climbing. We named the 11-pitch route "Dion's Dihedral" (VI 5.9 A3) in memory of our friend. Every time I heard the ice cliffs calving off of the north face of the Huandoy's across the valley from La Esfinge, I felt deep remorse. He was constantly on my mind while I was climbing. I thought of his youthful energy and the great fun we had on the climbs we did together. Larry and I both agreed that this route was for Dion. By Sean Isaac.
        South face
        South face (Cara S-SE). Rock, nccs VI 5.10a A4; VI+,A4; 950m. 1988-08-14First ascentBohorquez & Vicente, 1988-08-14.

        Aguja

        Aguja II (Aguja Norte)-8.974144-77.6930885886
        The highest and central of three Aguja main summits.
        1965-06-25
        Aguja II, Cara Sur,
        First ascent        		Cara Sur: G. Arcadi, A. Pizzoccolo & V. Taldo
        1977-07-15
        Aguja II, Cara Norte,
        First ascent        		Cara Norte: J. Ackerly & S. Ackerly
        • Sharman pp.38
        North side
        Cara Norte. Mixed, TD; 500m. 1977-07-15First ascentJ. Ackerly & S. Ackerly, 1977-07-15.
        • Tomé pp.94#1
        • AAJ 1978
        • Bohórquez #152
        South side
        Cara Sur (Lado SE). Snow/mixed, TD; 500m, 3 days. 1965-06-25First ascentG. Arcadi, A. Pizzoccolo & V. Taldo, 1965-06-25.
        Direct route through runnels and mixed terrain in the center of Aguja south circue. The climb follows more or less the the spur dropping from the summit.
        • Tomé pp.94#2
        • AAJ 1966
        • Bohórquez #151
        • Yuraq Janka pp. 72
        Aguja I (Aguja Sur)-8.9802-77.69555840
        1959-07-15
        Aguja I, SW ridge,
        First ascent        		SW ridge: F. Anderrüthi, E. Reiss & E. Steiger
        1978-08-28
        Aguja I, SE Arete,
        First ascent        		SE Arete: M. Kulig, R. Pawlowski & A. Zyzak
        1979-07-01
        Aguja I, South face,
        First ascent        		South face: A. Tuthil & J. Lieberman
        • Sharman pp.36-8
        South side
        SE Arete. Rock/mixed, TD; 700m, 2 days. 1978-08-28First ascentM. Kulig, R. Pawlowski & A. Zyzak, 1978-08-28.
        Prominent ridge forming the border of Aguja south circue.
        • Tomé pp.93#1
        • AAJ 1979
        • Bohórquez #149
        SW ridge. Snow/mixed, D; 700m, 1 day. 1959-07-15First ascentF. Anderrüthi, E. Reiss & E. Steiger, 1959-07-15.
        To col between Aguja Chica (P5560) and Aguja I, then along one of south ridges. According to Yuraq Janka probably SW ridge.
        • Tomé pp.94#2
        • AAJ 1965
        • Sharman pp.36
        • Bohórquez #150
        • Yuraq Janka pp.72
        South face. D; 700m, 1 day. 1979-07-01First ascentA. Tuthil & J. Lieberman, 1979-07.
        • Tomé pp.94#3
        • AAJ 1980
        • Sharman pp.36
        • Bohórquez #148
        Aguja III-8.971601-77.684295775
        Not nearly as prominent as higher Aguja I and II but equally difficult (if not more so).
        1979-07-08
        Aguja III, Cara Sur,
        First ascent        		Cara Sur: J. Porter & McIntyre
        • Sharman pp.38
        • AAJ 2001 pp.276
        South side
        Cara Sur. TD; 550m. 1979-07-08First ascentJ. Porter & McIntyre, 1979-07-08.
        • Tomé pp.94#2
        • AAJ 1980
        • Bohórquez #153
        Aguja Chica-8.988302-77.7033885560
        1959-07-16
        Aguja Chica, North ridge,
        First ascent        		North ridge: H. Frommweiler & E. Haltiner
        1978-08-22
        Aguja Chica, South Arete,
        First ascent        		South Arete: A. Olsszewski & R. Warecki
        North side
        North ridge. Glacier, AD+; 600m, 1 day. 1959-07-16First ascentH. Frommweiler & E. Haltiner, 1959-07-16.
        North ridge from col between Aguja Chica and Aguja I.
        • Tomé pp.93#1
        • Sharman pp.36
        • Bohórquez #146
        South side
        South Arete. Mixed, 600m, 2 days. 1978-08-22First ascentA. Olsszewski & R. Warecki, 1978-08-22.
        • Tomé pp.93#2
        • AAJ 1979
        • Sharman pp.36
        • Bohórquez #147

        Caraz

        Caraz Oeste (Caraz I, Caraz de Paron)-8.967319-77.6688916025
        Highest peak on the chain located between Quebrada Santa Cruz in the north and laguna Paron in the south. One of the easier 6000m peaks in the range.
        1955-06-14
        Caraz Oeste, East glacier and NE Ridge,
        First ascent        		East glacier and NE Ridge: H. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt
        1971-06-29
        Caraz Oeste, East ridge,
        First ascent        		East ridge: J. Glidden, B. Janis, F. Mohling, L. Ortenburger & M. Lowe
        1971-07-06
        Caraz Oeste, Glaciar N & Arista NE,
        First ascent        		Glaciar N & Arista NE: B. Loss & C. Marchiodi
        1979-07-20
        Caraz Oeste, South face Direct,
        First ascent        		South face Direct: N. Hellewell & A. Sole
        1980-07-07
        Caraz Oeste, Cara Sur,
        First ascent        		Cara Sur: Y.C. Sonnenwyl, P. Morand & E. Loretan
        • Biggar 2005 pp.65-6
        • Kiendler pp.51-2
        North side
        Glaciar N & Arista NE (Cara N & arista NE). TD; 800m, 3 days. 1971-07-06First ascentB. Loss & C. Marchiodi, 1971-07-06.
        To col 5750 between Caraz I and II and along NE ridge to the summit.
        • Tomé pp.95#1
        • Bohórquez #158
        East side
        Steep glacier leading to glacier shelf between Caraz I and II (5700m). Seracs and crevasses make the ascents exercise in route finding. Least technical routes to Caraz I from Paron side.
        East glacier and NE Ridge (SE and E slopes, Vertiente Este). D; 50-60°; 800m, 10-12h from high camp. 1955-06-14First ascentH. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-06-14.
        Easiest routes on Caraz I are found on he east side. Relatively non-technical routes but variable glacier conditions. Camp at 5200m. From there via plateau between Caraz I and II (5700m).
        East ridge (Vertiente E & Arista NE). D; 900m, 2-3 days. 1971-06-29First ascentJ. Glidden, B. Janis, F. Mohling, L. Ortenburger & M. Lowe, 1971-06-29.
        South face (Cara Sur)
        Very difficult 800m lines on steep ice face capped with mixed upper part (up to 70°/V and A3). The face is uniformly steep with no prominent features.
        South face Direct. TD+; 80°, V; 900m, 10-12h. 1979-07-20First ascentN. Hellewell & A. Sole, 1979-07-20.
        Cara Sur. TD; A3, 80, 55-70°; 1000m, 17h. 1980-07-07First ascentY.C. Sonnenwyl, P. Morand & E. Loretan, 1980-07-07.
        Caraz Este (Caraz II, Caraz de Santa Cruz)-8.961045-77.6645146020
        Central of Caraz peaks. Few meters lower than Caraz I but more difficult.
        1900-01-01
        Caraz Este, A. Coull, M. Kendrick & M. Morton first complete ascent,
        Event        		 A. Coull, M. Kendrick & M. Morton first complete ascent: Astoul, Detrie, Petiot & Petiot
        1900-01-01
        Caraz Este, J. Fisher, M. Sheldrake & A. Warfield Slovenian finish,
        Event        		 J. Fisher, M. Sheldrake & A. Warfield Slovenian finish: Jost & Mlinar
        1955-06-16
        Caraz Este, SE ridge,
        First ascent        		SE ridge: H. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt
        1977-07-19
        Caraz Este, Cara Norte,
        First ascent        		Cara Norte: J. Ackerly & S. Ackerly
        1986-07-10
        Caraz Este, Cara Sur,
        First ascent        		Cara Sur: J. Fisher, A. Warfield & M. Sheldrake
        2004-01-01
        Caraz Este, Australian Route,
        First ascent        		Australian Route: Morgan & Scholes
        North face
        Cara Norte. TD; 800m. 1977-07-19First ascentJ. Ackerly & S. Ackerly, 1977-07-19.
        East Face
        The face has three distinct couloirs capped of with rock barrier. All of them offer offer highly technical mixed routes (middle couloir unclimbed). NE ridge is the easiest route on Caraz II from Paron valley.
        The Superduper Couloir. Ice/mixed, TD; 90°. 1997-01-01First ascentA. Coull, M. Kendrick & M. Morton, 1997.2004-01-01First ascentfirst complete ascent: Astoul, Detrie, Petiot & Petiot, 2004.
        Left couloir. FA party stopped on the South East Ridge 50-100m below the summit. First complete ascent was made by the french in 2004 (Salida Directa de Los Gordos, ED2, 90-95, 6a,A2).
        Australian Route. ED1; WI3, V+,A2; 700m. 2004-01-01First ascentMorgan & Scholes, 2004.
        Ascends the right couloir but finished on mixed ground in the center of the face.
        British route. TD+; FA party stopped on reaching the North East Ridge. Slovenians Jost & Mlinar climbed a variant finish in 2001 (700m, TD+, Scottish 5/80) 550m. 1986-01-01First ascentJ. Fisher, M. Sheldrake & A. Warfield, 1986.2001-01-01First ascentSlovenian finish: Jost & Mlinar, 2001.
        NE ridge. 60-65°; 900-1000m.
        • Bohórquez #160
        South face
        Relatively short fluted ice face rising above the glacier plateau between Caraz I and II along the wild East glacier.
        SE ridge (East Ridge, Arista SE). D; 60-65°; 900-1000m, 1,5 days. 1955-06-16First ascentH. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-06-16.
        From Laguna Paron to plateau between Caraz I and II (5700m), then via South face ice runnels to summit.
        Cara Sur. TD+; 700m, 1-2 days. 1986-07-10First ascentJ. Fisher, A. Warfield & M. Sheldrake, 1986-07-10.
        Approach as for the East Slopes of Caraz I.
        Caraz III-8.95511-77.6515895720
        Lowest but most difficult of Caraz peaks.
        1971-07-05
        Caraz III, Cara N,
        First ascent        		Cara N: V. Degaspiere, R. Nicolin i, B. Tabarelli & M. Pilati
        1987-06-28
        Caraz III, South face,
        First ascent        		South face: G. Bell & H. Khesghi
        1997-07-15
        Caraz III, The Usual Suspects,
        First ascent        		The Usual Suspects: B. Wolf, K. Erickson & P. Knoll
        North side
        Cara N. 65°, IV-. 1971-07-05First ascentV. Degaspiere, R. Nicolin i, B. Tabarelli & M. Pilati, 1971-07-05.
        • Tomé pp.97#1
        • Bohórquez #163
        South side
        Steep face with mostly ice but involving some mixed ground.
        South face. TD+; 90°; 600m, 1-2 days. 1987-06-28First ascentG. Bell & H. Khesghi, 1987-06-28.
        The Usual Suspects. ED; V, 85°; 500m. 1997-07-15First ascentB. Wolf, K. Erickson & P. Knoll, 1997-07-15.

        Artesonraju

        Artesonraju-8.9521-77.63285999

        Classic pyramid peak accessible from Quebrada Santa Cruz (NE face, N Ridge) and Quebrada Paron (SE face, SE arete). SE face is probably the most frequented route in quebrada Paron.

        The shape of Artesonraju is possibly the best-known mountain in the world as it's north side features in the logo of Paramount Pictures, just the stars are missing.

        Technically easiest route is North Ridge with AD+. However, SE Face is far more frequented. SE arete offers more technical alternative to SE Face.

        1932-08-19
        Artesonraju, North ridge,
        First ascent        		North ridge: E. Hein, E. Schneider (Germany)
        1965-08-01
        Artesonraju, NE face and East Ridge,
        First ascent        		NE face and East Ridge: G. Hartmann, E. Reiss, R. Schatz & E. Steiger
        1969-06-24
        Artesonraju, SE face,
        First ascent        		SE face: K. Schreckenbach, H. Saler & K. Sussmilch
        1971-07-09
        Artesonraju, East ridge,
        First ascent        		East ridge: B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger
        1977-11-01
        Artesonraju, NE face and East Ridge,
        First ascent        		NE face and East Ridge: T. Ammons & P. Kelemen
        1979-01-01
        Artesonraju, Cara SO,
        First ascent        		Cara SO: A. Sole & G. Spohr
        1993-07-18
        Artesonraju, SE Arete,
        First ascent        		SE Arete: T. Sbrizaj, S. Semrajc & B. Naglic
        • Biggar 2005 pp.66-7
        • Kiendler pp.48-50
        AD/D.
        North ridge
        North ridge (Cara & espolón NE). D+; 60°, IV+; 800m (6-8h) from the glacier, 1200m (10-12h) from the camp. 1932-08-19First ascentE. Hein, E. Schneider (Germany), 1932-08-19.
        Easiest route, although not nearly as popular as South-East Face. From Quebrada Santa Cruz. Final part up to 60° ridge crest exposed.
        • Johnson pp.56-57
        • Tomé pp.100#6
        • Sharman pp.40
        • Bohórquez #172
        NE face and East Ridge. D+; 80° (mixed headwall 10m, mostly 60°)°, IV; 800m (5-7h) from the glacier, 1200m (10-12h) from the camp. 1977-11-01First ascentT. Ammons & P. Kelemen, 1977-11-01.1965-08-01First ascentG. Hartmann, E. Reiss, R. Schatz & E. Steiger, 1965-08-01.
        East side
        East ridge. Snow/ice, D-; 40-50°; 900m. 1-2 days from Paron glacier. 1971-07-09First ascentB. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger, 1971-07-09.
        Snow/ice ridge. It is possible to gain the col from north (Quebrada Santa Cruz) or south (from a camp on Paron glacier, 5200m).
        South side
        SE Arete (Arista Sur, Eslovena, SE Face & Buttress). TD+; 80-85°, IV; 800m from camp at Paron glacier (5200m). 1993-07-18First ascentT. Sbrizaj, S. Semrajc & B. Naglic, 1993-07-18.
        More technical alternative to SE Face. From Paron valley. Joins the SE face in the upper part.
        SE face (South-East Face). Snow, IV D+; 45-55°; 800m from camp at Paron glacier (5200m), 7-9h. 1969-06-24First ascentK. Schreckenbach, H. Saler & K. Sussmilch, 1969-06-24.
        Normal route, classic. Most favorable and most often used route through the central couloir on the face. The general inclination of the face is 45-55 degrees (60° on the last 100m). It is purely packed snow climbing.
        Cara SO. TD; 50-80°; 900m. 1979-01-01First ascentA. Sole & G. Spohr, 1979.
        NW face
        Cara NO. 70-85°; 2 days.
        • Bohórquez #165

        Piramide

        Millishraju
        Millishraju I-8.947946-77.6074725510
        1955-08-16
        Millishraju I, NE&N ridges,
        First ascent        		NE&N ridges: H. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt
        1965-07-30
        Millishraju I, South ridge,
        First ascent        		South ridge: E. Angeles, B. Boler, F. Comtesse, G. Spoerry & L. Spoerry
        North side
        NE&N ridges. F-. 1955-08-16First ascentH. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-08-16.
        • Sharman pp.41
        South side
        South ridge. PD. 1965-07-30First ascentE. Angeles, B. Boler, F. Comtesse, G. Spoerry & L. Spoerry, 1965-07-30.
        • Sharman pp.41
        • Bohórquez #183
        Millishraju II-8.944088-77.6050695500
        1965-07-29
        Millishraju II, West face,
        First ascent        		West face: G. Hartman & R. Shatz
        West side
        West face. PD/AD. 1965-07-29First ascentG. Hartman & R. Shatz, 1965-07-29.
        • Sharman pp.42
        • Bohórquez #182
        Paria
        Paria (Paron Grande)-8.9579-77.61455600
        1957-05-25
        Paria, South ridge,
        First ascent        		South ridge: G. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann
        1980-07-10
        Paria, SW Face to West Ridge,
        First ascent        		SW Face to West Ridge: R. Blatherwick & M. Rickey
        1980-07-17
        Paria, West face,
        First ascent        		West face: M. Madoz, E. Emmanuel, J.M. Errea, J.G. Mediluce, A. Gorraiz, J. Alberdi & C. Ochoa
        2004-06-06
        Paria, Bartonellosis,
        First ascent        		Bartonellosis: Nick Carter, Mike Pescod & Owen Samuel
        North face
        Bartonellosis. Ice, TD+; Sco 5; 400m, 10 pitches. 2004-06-06First ascentNick Carter, Mike Pescod & Owen Samuel, 2004-06-06.
        SW side
        South ridge. AD-; 50°; 800m, 7-8h. 1957-05-25First ascentG. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957-05-25.
        West face. D; 45°; 400m, 4h. 1980-07-17First ascentM. Madoz, E. Emmanuel, J.M. Errea, J.G. Mediluce, A. Gorraiz, J. Alberdi & C. Ochoa, 1980-07-17.
        West ridge
        SW Face to West Ridge. D; 55°; 400m. 1980-07-10First ascentR. Blatherwick & M. Rickey, 1980-07-10.
        Paron Sur-8.9660-77.61575500
        Minor bumb on the main ridge between Paron Grande and Piramide Norte. Easiest climbing from the upper Paron valley and thus one of the few peaks suited as acclimatization goal from the valley.
        1957-05-24
        Paron Sur, North ridge,
        First ascent        		North ridge: E. Angeles, G. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedman
        2004-08-23
        Paron Sur, Central spur,
        First ascent        		Central spur: Andrew McIntyre, Kevin Neal & Neil Stewart
        North side
        North ridge. Snow, AD; 1 day. 1957-05-24First ascentE. Angeles, G. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedman, 1957-05-24.
        West face
        Central spur. Ice, AD+; 200m. 2004-08-23First ascentAndrew McIntyre, Kevin Neal & Neil Stewart, 2004-08-23.
        Piramide
        Piramide de Garcilaso (Pirámide)-8.9765-77.62205885
        1957-05-29
        Piramide de Garcilaso, NW face,
        First ascent        		NW face: G. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann
        1971-06-05
        Piramide de Garcilaso, Variante '71,
        First ascent        		Variante '71: G. Lowe & M. Lowe
        1978-09-08
        Piramide de Garcilaso, West Ridge,
        First ascent        		West Ridge: M. Kulig & R. Pawlowski
        1979-07-23
        Piramide de Garcilaso, SW Face Direct,
        First ascent        		SW Face Direct: R. Renshaw & P. Wilkinson
        1995-07-13
        Piramide de Garcilaso, Cara SO,
        First ascent        		Cara SO: A. Monasterio & D. Debelak
        1996-08-26
        Piramide de Garcilaso, Cambio de luna,
        First ascent        		Cambio de luna: B. Wolf & A. Clarke
        SW face (Cara SO)
        Somewhat more difficult than NW face featuring several prominent runnels which form logical paths of accension. All of the routes on this face feature some rock/mixed passages which usually form the crux of the climbs. Therefore the conditions greatly affects how difficult they are.
        Cara SO. Mixed, 90-55°, VI; 700m, 11h. 1995-07-13First ascentA. Monasterio & D. Debelak, 1995-07-13.
        • Bohórquez #192
        SW Face Direct. Mixed, TD+; 80°, IV; 800m, 8-12h. 1979-07-23First ascentR. Renshaw & P. Wilkinson, 1979-07-23.
        Challenging mixed climb directly to the summit. Like Alpamayo SW face but longer, more difficult and without the crowds.
        Cambio de luna. TD+; 85°, V; 400m. 1996-08-26First ascentB. Wolf & A. Clarke, 1996-08-26.
        West Ridge (Arista Oeste)
        Ridge towards leguna Paron separating NW and SW faces.
        West Ridge (Arista Oeste). ED; 900m, 3 days. 1978-09-08First ascentM. Kulig & R. Pawlowski, 1978-09-08.
        NW face (Cara NO)
        Fluted face towards Paron glacier (Artesonraju). Several lines, all around D or D+ (50-60°) and 500m. Easiest means to climb Piramide main summit.
        NW face (Cara NO). Ice/snow, D+; 60°; 550m, 1 day from glacier camp. 1957-05-29First ascentG. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957-05-29.
        Variante '71. Ice/snow, D+; 60°; 550m, 1 day from glacier camp. 1971-06-05First ascentG. Lowe & M. Lowe, 1971-06-05.
        Considered to be variant of NW face route is most guidebooks. Similar in length and difficulty.
        Piramide Norte-8.96982-77.6185015700
        Minor peak on the north (NE) ridge of Piramide de Garcilaso. Not very prominent peak at all. Exclusively climbed along NE ridge. West face is quite steep and much rockier than neighboring NW face of Piramide de Garcilaso.
        1957-05-23
        Piramide Norte, North ridge,
        First ascent        		North ridge: G. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann
        North side
        North ridge. AD; 1 day. 1957-05-23First ascentG. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957-05-23.
        The easiest route on Piramide but finishes on the lower north summit. The ridge starts at the col between Paron Sur and Piramide (5450m) which can be gained from Paron glacier.

        Huandoy Central

        Yanawaka group

        Torre de Parón (Cerro Torohuacra)-9.0308-77.71234805
        Despite it has been confused before, Torre de Parón is a separate peak from nearby La Esfinge. This official Torre de Paron is located on the south side of quebrada Paron.

        Pisco

        Pisco Este-9.011833-77.6311395760
        One of the easier peaks in Huandoy group. Higher but less often climbed than few meters lower Pisco Oeste.
        1959-01-01
        Pisco Este, Pendiente Oeste & Arista NO,
        First ascent        		Pendiente Oeste & Arista NO: D. Mackay, J. Nelson, M. Nelson & J. Totgill
        1961-07-01
        Pisco Este, Cara SO,
        First ascent        		Cara SO: D. Bernays, F. Bernays & F. Knight
        1971-06-23
        Pisco Este, Pendiente Norte & Arista NO,
        First ascent        		Pendiente Norte & Arista NO: J. Glidden, F. Mohling, L. Ortenburger & R. Reese
        1971-06-26
        Pisco Este, Cara Norte,
        First ascent        		Cara Norte: B. Janis & M. Lowe
        1980-07-03
        Pisco Este, Arista Sur,
        First ascent        		Arista Sur: Derek Howard & Nick Kekus
        1985-06-12
        Pisco Este, Arista Este,
        First ascent        		Arista Este: Luca Dalla Palma & Michele Dalla Palma
        2004-06-01
        Pisco Este, South Face,
        First ascent        		South Face: Adam Kovacs
        North side
        Cara Norte. D; 600m. 1971-06-26First ascentB. Janis & M. Lowe, 1971-06-26.
        Through the couloir that tops on North ridge close to the summit.
        Pendiente Norte & Arista NO. AD-; 600m. 1971-06-23First ascentJ. Glidden, F. Mohling, L. Ortenburger & R. Reese, 1971-06-23.
        East side
        Arista Este. ED1; 85°, VI; 750m. 1985-06-12First ascentLuca Dalla Palma & Michele Dalla Palma, 1985-06-12.
        from Chacraraju Col.
        South face
        South Face. M5/90°; 350m. 2004-06-01First ascentAdam Kovacs, 2004-06.
        SW side
        Pendiente Oeste & Arista NO. D-; 500m. 1959-01-01First ascentD. Mackay, J. Nelson, M. Nelson & J. Totgill, 1959.
        Cara SO. 500m. 1961-07-01First ascentD. Bernays, F. Bernays & F. Knight, 1961-07.
        From the col between Pisco Oeste and Este.
        Arista Sur (South East Spur). TD; 500m. 1980-07-03First ascentDerek Howard & Nick Kekus, 1980-07-03.
        Pisco Oeste-9.01047-77.6324845752
        Quite possibly the most frequently climbed peak in Cordillera Blanca. Regularly climbed by commercial parties and as acclimatization peak by parties having larger objectives in mind.
        1951-07-12
        Pisco Oeste, SW slopes,
        First ascent        		SW slopes: C & G. Kogan, R. Ceninger & M. Lenoir
        1976-08-11
        Pisco Oeste, Cara Sur,
        First ascent        		Cara Sur: R. Tuliszka & J. Marcincowski
        1977-07-26
        Pisco Oeste, Cara Sur,
        First ascent        		Cara Sur: M. Barrand
        1977-07-30
        Pisco Oeste, Cara Sur,
        First ascent        		Cara Sur: M. Barrand, C. Bougnaud & P. Vallencant
        1981-06-24
        Pisco Oeste, Cara Sur,
        First ascent        		Cara Sur: C. Bougnaud & R. Wilson
        1983-06-20
        Pisco Oeste, Arista NE,
        First ascent        		Arista NE: L. Apollonio, D. Baldassi, R. Durin & A. Orlini
        1998-05-01
        Pisco Oeste, Cara Este,
        First ascent        		Cara Este: C. Geisler & S. Gaston
        2012-01-01
        Pisco Oeste, El camino secreto de Hermann Kirchner,
        First ascent        		El camino secreto de Hermann Kirchner: Florian Burger & Beto Pinto
        • Biggar 2005 pp.68-9
        • Kiendler pp.55-6
        Arista NE
        Arista NE. TD; 300m. 1983-06-20First ascentL. Apollonio, D. Baldassi, R. Durin & A. Orlini, 1983-06-20.
        From East side to col 5580m between Pisco Oeste and Pisco Este and from the col along NE ridge to the summit.
        Cara Este. ED; 50-90°, VI; 350m, 12h. 1998-05-01First ascentC. Geisler & S. Gaston, 1998-05.
        • Tomé pp.112#6
        • Bohórquez #238
        South side
        Facing quebrada Llanganuco (refugio Peru). The face is framed with SW ridge (highly frequented normal route) in the left and NE ridge in the right. There are several relatively short steep ice routes on south face, the easiest being AD/D.
        El camino secreto de Hermann Kirchner. Mixed, 5c+,A1, 50-90°. 2012-01-01First ascentFlorian Burger & Beto Pinto, 2012.
        • Climbers "Radio" For Help On Peruvian FA. Originally planning to climb the west face of Yerupaja (ca. 6600m), Austrian Florian Burger and Peruvian Beto Pinto put up a new route on Pisco (5752m) in late August. El Camino Secreto de Hermann Kichner ascends the south face, with maximum difficulties of 5.10- A1 rock and 50- to 90-degree ice and snow. By Taylor VanRoekel at Alpinist on 2012-11-05.
        Cara Sur. D; 350m/1200m. 1977-07-26First ascentM. Barrand, 1977-07-26.
        Cara Sur (Corredor central). D; 400m/1200m. 1977-07-30First ascentM. Barrand, C. Bougnaud & P. Vallencant, 1977-07-30.
        Cara Sur. D+; 425m/1200m. 1981-06-24First ascentC. Bougnaud & R. Wilson, 1981-06-24.
        Cara Sur. TD-; 500m/1200m. 1976-08-11First ascentR. Tuliszka & J. Marcincowski, 1976-08-11.
        SW ridge
        SW ridge starts from the col between Huandoy Este and Pisco Este (5350m). The route us highly frequented from quebrada Llanganuco (refugio Peru). The col can also be gained from quebrada Paron, which is reportedly significantly more difficult.
        • Bohórquez #229-#238
        SW slopes (Arista SO). IV PD/nccs II; 45°/AI1; 850m, 3-5h from moraine camp. 1951-07-12First ascentC & G. Kogan, R. Ceninger & M. Lenoir, 1951-07-12.
        Normal route. Quite possibly the most popular route in Cordillera Blanca. Potentially serious crevasses. Gains the col to the left of Pisco Oeste and follows the ridge to the summit.
        • Johnson pp.96-7
        • Frimer pp.40-1
        • Tomé pp.111#1
        • Kiendler #B8
        • Sharman pp.48
        • Bohórquez #229

        Chacraraju

        Chacraraju Oeste (West Summit)-8.994194-77.6149036108
        Possibly the hardest summit in Peru. Normally climbed via South Face, although the routes on north side might may slightly less difficult (still ED1, though). West face from Paron valley is quite possibly the most difficult climb in the whole Cordillera Blanca.
        1956-07-31
        Chacraraju Oeste, Cara NE,
        First ascent        		Cara NE: M. Davaille, R. Jenny, M. Martin, R. Sennelier, P. Saurioc & L. Terray
        1964-06-28
        Chacraraju Oeste, Suizo-Francesa-Peruana,
        First ascent        		Suizo-Francesa-Peruana: X. Bongard, P.A. Romagnoli, P.E. Beaud & H. Colonia
        1964-08-23
        Chacraraju Oeste, Arista Norte,
        First ascent        		Arista Norte: H. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost & L. Ortenburger
        1977-01-01
        Chacraraju Oeste, Franco-Americana,
        First ascent        		Franco-Americana: M.O. Meunier & John Bouchard
        1979-05-24
        Chacraraju Oeste, Ruta Astier,
        First ascent        		Ruta Astier: Y. Astier
        1982-06-08
        Chacraraju Oeste, Slovenian Route,
        First ascent        		Slovenian Route: Freser & Knez
        1983-01-01
        Chacraraju Oeste, French Direct,
        First ascent        		French Direct: R. Desmaison, M. Arizzi, X. Chapaz & J. Fourque
        1986-06-16
        Chacraraju Oeste, Slovak Route,
        First ascent        		Slovak Route: Hapala & Husicka
        1996-06-29
        Chacraraju Oeste, Cara Oeste,
        First ascent        		Cara Oeste: D. Debelan, V. Mliner, T. Zerovnik, I. Oblan, A. Monasterio, A Nerman & J. Cajzek
        2004-01-01
        Chacraraju Oeste, Lord of the Towers,
        First ascent        		Lord of the Towers: Kovac, Kozjek & Monasterio
        • Biggar 2005 pp.68
        • Kiendler pp.53-5
        ED1/ED2.
        Arista Norte
        Arista Norte (North ridge). ED1; 800m, 3-4 days. 1964-08-23First ascentH. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost & L. Ortenburger, 1964-08-23.
        NE face
        to col between the summits on the East Ridge, 3-4 days.
        Cara NE (East ridge). ED1; A1; 1000m, 3-4 days. 1956-07-31First ascentM. Davaille, R. Jenny, M. Martin, R. Sennelier, P. Saurioc & L. Terray, 1956-07-31.
        First ascent route on Chacraraju Oeste.
        Lord of the Towers. ED3; 6a,A1, AI6/90°; 800m. 2004-01-01First ascentKovac, Kozjek & Monasterio, 2004.
        • Chacraraju Oeste, North face. On July 8-9, Marjan Kovac and I (both from Slovenia) and Aritza Monasterio (Spain/Basque, living in Huaraz) opened a new route on the north face of Chacraraju Oeste (6112m) in a lightweight, single push. By Pavle Kozjek at Alpinist on 2004-12-01.
        Slovak Route. ED; V+,A2, 60-80°; 800m. 1986-06-16First ascentHapala & Husicka, 1986-06-16.
        South face
        One of the most challenging test pieces in the Andes. There are several routes, all of them difficult.
        Franco-Americana. Ice, ED+; 60-90°; 850m, 28h. 1977-01-01First ascentM.O. Meunier & John Bouchard, 1977.
        French Direct (Directa Francesa). Ice, ED1/2; 90°; 950m, 2-3 days. 1983-01-01First ascentR. Desmaison, M. Arizzi, X. Chapaz & J. Fourque, 1983.
        Probably the easiest route on Chacraraju Oeste.
        Ruta Astier. ED; 800m, 1 day. 1979-05-24First ascentY. Astier, 1979-05-24.
        Suizo-Francesa-Peruana. ED+; 800m. 1964-06-28First ascentX. Bongard, P.A. Romagnoli, P.E. Beaud & H. Colonia, 1964-06-28.
        Slovenian Route (Ruta Eslovena). ABO; VII+,A3, 95°; 945m. 1982-06-08First ascentFreser & Knez, 1982-06-08.
        West face
        Possibly the most difficult aspect of Chacraraju. Narrow mixed face above Chacracocha with extremely difficult climbing. The central part of the face consists of very steep rock barrier, both lower and upper parts are mixed.
        Cara Oeste (Ruta Alpos-Facig-Slovenue). ABO; VII+,A3+, 95°; 950m. 1996-06-29First ascentD. Debelan, V. Mliner, T. Zerovnik, I. Oblan, A. Monasterio, A Nerman & J. Cajzek, 1996-06-29.
        Possbly the most difficult climb in whole Cordillera Blanca. Direct route through the central part of the face. The first ascent was done using big wall tactics and 400m of fixed rope.
        Chacraraju Este (Huaripampa, East Summit)-8.99572-77.6059776001
        1900-01-01
        Chacraraju Este, ,
        Event        		 L. Dubast, P. Gendre, G. Magnone, J. Souris, Lionel Terray Oriol Baro, Jordi Corominas
        1900-01-01
        Chacraraju Este, Nicolas Jaeger Running on Empty,
        Event        		 Nicolas Jaeger Running on Empty: Adam Kovacs & Nick Bullock
        1972-01-01
        Chacraraju Este, Japonesa,
        First ascent        		Japonesa: D. Kochi & Tanaka
        1976-01-01
        Chacraraju Este, Japonesa '76,
        First ascent        		Japonesa '76: K. Kondo & M. Yoshino
        1978-08-01
        Chacraraju Este, Americana,
        First ascent        		Americana: E. Rickey & M. Brewer
        1984-08-21
        Chacraraju Este, Hispano-Peruviana,
        First ascent        		Hispano-Peruviana: A. García, I.J. Escolar & W. Silverio
        1993-07-19
        Chacraraju Este, East face,
        First ascent        		East face: P. Kozjek, G. Kresal
        1999-01-01
        Chacraraju Este, The Shriek of the Black Stone,
        First ascent        		The Shriek of the Black Stone: Jure Juhasz, Andrej Markovic
        2017-07-01
        Chacraraju Este, The Devil's Reach Around,
        First ascent        		The Devil's Reach Around: Alik Berg, Quentin Lindfield Roberts
        East side
        Narrow and very steep rock face leading to the pointy summit. Most routes avoid the main face by joining to one of the ridges. 1999 "The Shriek of Black Stone" was the first route to climb the face proper. 2017 "The Devil's Reach Around" also climbs the face proper and is also the first all free route on the face.
        Arista NE. ED2; 800m, 1 day. 1962-08-05First ascentL. Dubast, P. Gendre, G. Magnone, J. Souris, Lionel Terray, 1962-08-05.2011-06-22First ascentOriol Baro, Jordi Corominas, 2011-06-22.
        East face (Slovenian). ED4; 6b,A2, 80°; 800m, 17 pitches. 21h. 1993-07-19First ascentP. Kozjek, G. Kresal, 1993-07-19.
        The Devil's Reach Around. M6/90°, 5.10; 2 days. 2017-07-01First ascentAlik Berg, Quentin Lindfield Roberts, 2017-07.
        • Canadians free climb Chacraraju's east face headwall with 'The Devil's Reach Around'. Canadian climbers Alik Berg and Quentin Lindfield Roberts completed a new route on the east face of Chacraraju Este (6001m) in Peru in mid-July. The Devil's Reach Around (M6 5.10, 90°) is the first route on the face to be completed without aid, and the two men did it in just two days, with part of that time spent waiting out the hot midday temperatures. By Derek Franz at Alpinist on 2017-08-02.
        The Shriek of the Black Stone. ED3/4; 6b,A2+/VI-VII,A2, 90°; 950m, 25 pitches. 1999-01-01First ascentJure Juhasz, Andrej Markovic, 1999.
        South face
        One of the most challenging test pieces in the Andes.
        Japonesa. TD/ED; 700m. 1972-01-01First ascentD. Kochi & Tanaka, 1972.
        Americana. ED+; 700m. 1978-08-01First ascentE. Rickey & M. Brewer, 1978-08.
        Hispano-Peruviana. ED; 700m. 1984-08-21First ascentA. García, I.J. Escolar & W. Silverio, 1984-08-21.
        Jaeger Route (Grand Couloir). ED1; 650m, 7-10h. 1978-07-05First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1978-07-05.2004-01-01First ascentRunning on Empty: Adam Kovacs & Nick Bullock, 2004.
        Most popular route on Este. Less difficult and committing than routes on Oeste. At first 50-65° on the couloir leading to the summit tower. Summit tower steeper (60-80°). Running on Empty variation is more difficult at Sco VI,7.
        Japonesa '76. ED+; A1-2, 60°; 800m. 1976-01-01First ascentK. Kondo & M. Yoshino, 1976.

        Yanapaccha

        Yanapaccha (Yanaphaqcha)-9.026916-77.5765375460
        • Yanapaccha (5460m-9.026916-77.576537)
        • Yanapaccha Sureste (5145m)
        Not too imposing peaks located at the end of Llanganuco valley. Relatively non-technical snow/ice route from the west is among the most popular climbs in the whole range. South ridge from Portachuelo de Llanganuco over SE summit is much difficult proposition.
        1954-06-23
        Yanapaccha, NW ridge,
        First ascent        		NW ridge: F. Ayres, A. Creswell, R. Irwin, D. Michael & L. Ortenburger
        1959-07-08
        Yanapaccha, West face,
        First ascent        		West face: D. Mackay & H. Tothill
        1980-07-01
        Yanapaccha, South Arete,
        First ascent        		South Arete: N. Kekus & D. Howard
        South side
        South Arete. TD+; 1000m, 2 days. 1980-07-01First ascentN. Kekus & D. Howard, 1980-07.
        Long ridge from Portachuelo de Llanganuco over SE summit (5145m). The upper part of the route is sometimes climbed in opposite direction to complete a one-day traverse from Yanapaccha moraine camp on the west side of the mountain.
        West face (Cara Oeste)
        West face (Cara Oeste). IV PD+/AD-; 40-45°; 550m, 5-8h from moraine camp. 1959-07-08First ascentD. Mackay & H. Tothill, 1959-07-08.
        NW ridge. PD+; 550m, 1 day. 1954-06-23First ascentF. Ayres, A. Creswell, R. Irwin, D. Michael & L. Ortenburger, 1954-06-23.
        Yanapaccha Norte-9.019626-77.5622895380
        1959-07-14
        Yanapaccha Norte, NW glacier,
        First ascent        		NW glacier: K. Keplingen, U. Staudacher & A Zangerl
        1978-05-05
        Yanapaccha Norte, NW couloir,
        First ascent        		NW couloir: J.P. Balmat, D. Monaci, H. Thivierge & J. Fabre
        North side
        NW glacier. F; 4h. 1959-07-14First ascentK. Keplingen, U. Staudacher & A Zangerl, 1959-07-14.
        • Sharman pp.46
        • Bohórquez #219
        NW couloir. AD; 1 day. 1978-05-05First ascentJ.P. Balmat, D. Monaci, H. Thivierge & J. Fabre, 1978-05-05.
        Yanapaccja Noroeste5290

        Huandoy

        Huandoy Norte (Tullparaju)-9.02806-77.663896395

        The highest of Huandoy peaks and the highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca (together with Huantsan) after two Huascaráns. Mostly climbed from the east side starting from Refugio Peru (hut at 4600m). South Face is 1000m wall of rock and ice. Also possible from laguna Paron (north side, much longer and very difficult). Three main summits can be climbed from a high camp on Huandoy Plateau (5800m).

        1932-01-01
        Huandoy Norte, South slopes,
        First ascent        		South slopes: E. Hein & E. Schneider
        1959-07-10
        Huandoy Norte, Cara O-NO,
        First ascent        		Cara O-NO: R. Schatz & E. Reiss
        1971-07-18
        Huandoy Norte, NW face,
        First ascent        		NW face: J. Glidden, B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger
        1974-07-28
        Huandoy Norte, NE face,
        First ascent        		NE face: G. de Naurois & M. Parmentier
        1976-08-18
        Huandoy Norte, East Face,
        First ascent        		East Face: J. Stryczynski & W. Waligora
        1987-07-02
        Huandoy Norte, Cara N,
        First ascent        		Cara N: D. Tic & M. Romih
        • Biggar 2005 pp.69-71
        • Kiendler pp.56-9
        AD/D.
        North face
        Cara N. ED4/EX-/nccs VI-; VI-VII; 1450m, 5 days. 1987-07-02First ascentD. Tic & M. Romih, 1987-07-02.
        East face
        East side climbs on Huandoy Norte are accessed from Refugio Peru by following Pisco normal route (SW ridge) to Pisco moraine camp, then steering left to the glacier. usual camp site is below the north face at ~5200m (3-4h from Pisco moraine camp, quite possible from Refugio Peru in a day). The face is 100m high and objectively relatively safe. Easier proportion is to climb to glacier plateau at 5800m between Sut, Oeste and Norte (camp) and climb thee peak from there via col 6150m between Oeste and Norte. This is also viable descent alternative to rappelling the route (6-8h from plateau camp to Pisco moraine camp).
        NE face (North-North-East Ridge). D+; 45-70°, III; 1200m from the bottom of the couloir. 1-2 days. 1974-07-28First ascentG. de Naurois & M. Parmentier, 1974-07-28.
        Normal route. Easiest route. From the camp on glacier at 5200m. At first 400m couloir to the col (5850m) on the ridge that separates Huandoy Norte from Huandoy Este (mostly 50° last 100m 70°; 3-5h, possible camp). The ridge itself is 50-55° snow/ice for 500m capped with final rock barrier (10m of uiaa III).
        East Face (Cara Este, Ruta Polaca). D+/TD-; 55-80° (mixed, last 3 pitches)°, IV-; 1100m (face), 1500m, 2-3 days round trip from moraine camp. 1976-08-18First ascentJ. Stryczynski & W. Waligora, 1976-08-18.
        Moderately difficult mixed climb.
        East Icefall. AD+; 45°; 2-3 days.
        Normal route. From the camp below east face along 45-degree snow to Huandoy Plateau (5800m) above the icefall (camp, 5-6h from glacier camp). From there to col 6150m between Huandoy Oeste and Norte (2-3h, 45 degree). Up until this point the route is identical to normal route of Huandoy Oeste (East slope & NE ridge).
        South slopes (Pendientes Sur). AD+/D-; 35-45°, III - IV. 1932-01-01First ascentE. Hein & E. Schneider, 1932.
        Moderately steep glacier climb, with some technical challenges in the approach. Severe stone fall danger.
        NW side
        NW face of Huandoy Norte is mostly ice face with rock on the upper part of the face. Vague rocky spur splits the face into WNW and NW faces.
        NW face. Snow/ice, D+; 45-55°, IV+ (mixed, several pitches); 800m, 10-12h. 1971-07-18First ascentJ. Glidden, B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger, 1971-07-18.
        Direct ascent, primarily on snow and ice, with a rock band guarding the top.
        Cara O-NO. D+; 900m, 2/3d. 1959-07-10First ascentR. Schatz & E. Reiss, 1959-07-10.
        Huandoy Oeste-9.035138-77.6698716356
        • Huandoy Oeste (6356m-9.035138-77.669871)
        • P5840 (5840m)
        Probably the least climbed of main Huandoy peaks, despite being the easiest.
        1954-07-28
        Huandoy Oeste, East slope & NE Ridge,
        First ascent        		East slope & NE Ridge: L. Ortenburger, R. Irvin & W. Mathews
        1978-08-29
        Huandoy Oeste, Cara SO,
        First ascent        		Cara SO: N. Jaeger
        1985-07-18
        Huandoy Oeste, Cara Norte,
        First ascent        		Cara Norte: Steven Untch & Alan Hinkes
        Cara Norte
        North face of Huandoy Oeste is rockier and more difficult then neighboring NW face of Huandoy Norte. Conditions permitting the least technical way to climb Huandoy Oeste from this side would probably be to climb to col between Norte and Oeste and follow the ridge to the summit. However, this is threatened by seracs.
        Cara Norte. D/TD; 75-80°, V+; 900m, 3 days. 1985-07-18First ascentSteven Untch & Alan Hinkes, 1985-07-18.
        • Tomé pp.118#2
        • AAJ 1986 pp.191
        • Bohórquez #263
        NE Ridge
        East slope & NE Ridge (Arista NE). AD-; 45°; 850m. 1d round trip from plateau camp at 5800m. 1954-07-28First ascentL. Ortenburger, R. Irvin & W. Mathews, 1954-07-28.
        Normal route. The easiest route on Huandoy main summits. From the camp below east face of Norte along 45-degree snow to Huandoy Plateau (5800m) above the icefall (camp, 5-6h from glacier camp). From there to col 6150m between Huandoy Oeste and Norte (2-3h, 45 degree).
        South face
        Contrafuerte Sur. TD+; 1000m.
        Cara SO. TD+; 1000m, 2-3 days. 1978-08-29First ascentN. Jaeger, 1978-08-29.
        Arista Oeste
        Arista Oeste. TD+; 1000m, 5-6 days.
        Huandoy Sur-9.042428-77.655886160
        1955-07-15
        Huandoy Sur, NW Slopes,
        First ascent        		NW Slopes: P. Koch & H. Schmidt
        1964-07-28
        Huandoy Sur, SW Buttress,
        First ascent        		SW Buttress: H. Abrons, T. Frost, H. Kendall, J. Kendall, I. Ortenburger & L. Ortenburger
        1972-08-16
        Huandoy Sur, Arista Este,
        First ascent        		Arista Este: P. Jongen, M. Massenat, G. Sterna & G. Thejlov
        1976-06-27
        Huandoy Sur, Ruta Japonesa,
        First ascent        		Ruta Japonesa: K. Kando, M. Yoshino & Y. Hayashi
        1976-07-06
        Huandoy Sur, Ruta Italiana,
        First ascent        		Ruta Italiana: A. Da Poleita & R. Casarotto
        1976-07-22
        Huandoy Sur, Ruta Francesa,
        First ascent        		Ruta Francesa: R. Desmaison, M. Faiure, P. Ottman & J.C. Salomon
        1979-01-01
        Huandoy Sur, French route,
        First solo ascent        		French route: Y. Astier
        1995-08-09
        Huandoy Sur, Oro del Inca,
        First ascent        		Oro del Inca: P. Kozjek
        2002-08-01
        Huandoy Sur, Parete Sur,
        First ascent        		Parete Sur: Pierrick Keller, Benoit Chanal, François Dupety & Yann Bonneville
        D.
        NE side
        French route (Cara NE, Astier). TD; 80°, III; 1000m, 8-10h.
        Challenging snow and ice climb on NE face. Camp at 5200m (5-6h from Pisco BC). At first 100m of uiaa III, then 700m of 55° snow/ice diagonally to the central ice gully of summit pyramid (200m of 60-70° and 3m of steep mixed climbing (80°).
        Oro del Inca (Cara NE). ED; VI-, 75-95°; 1000m, 7,5h. 1995-08-09First ascentP. Kozjek, 1995-08-09.
        Arista Este
        Arista Este. TD; 1000m. 1972-08-16First ascentP. Jongen, M. Massenat, G. Sterna & G. Thejlov, 1972-08-16.
        South face
        Overhanging and desperately difficult routes on South face. Well visible to the road running through Llanganuco valley.
        Ruta Francesa. Rock, ED+; V+,A2, 80°; 1000m. 1976-07-22First ascentR. Desmaison, M. Faiure, P. Ottman & J.C. Salomon, 1976-07-22.
        Ruta Japonesa. ED-; A2, 70°; 850m, 12 days. 1976-06-27First ascentK. Kando, M. Yoshino & Y. Hayashi, 1976-06-27.
        Ruta Italiana. ED; A2, 70°; 1000m, 22 days. 1976-07-06First ascentA. Da Poleita & R. Casarotto, 1976-07-06.
        Parete Sur. ED+; 6a,A4, M5+; 900m, 17 days. 2002-08-01First ascentPierrick Keller, Benoit Chanal, François Dupety & Yann Bonneville, 2002-08.
        Candidate for Piolet d'Or.
        SW side
        SW Buttress (Contraforte SO & arista Oeste). D; 50°; 900m. 1964-07-28First ascentH. Abrons, T. Frost, H. Kendall, J. Kendall, I. Ortenburger & L. Ortenburger, 1964-07-28.
        Probably the easiest route on Huandoy summits.
        NW side
        NW Slopes (Cara NO). D; 45°; 1500m, 5h. 1955-07-15First ascentP. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-07-15.
        Huandoy Este-9.019329-77.6559666000
        1952-08-01
        Huandoy Este, Arista N,
        First ascent        		Arista N: P. Hoessly & F. Hoyt
        1969-08-01
        Huandoy Este, West ridge,
        First ascent        		West ridge: J. Hudson & R. Laba
        1975-08-07
        Huandoy Este, NE ridge,
        First ascent        		NE ridge: R. Casarotto, F. Piana & S. Martini
        1985-06-13
        Huandoy Este, Cara N,
        First ascent        		Cara N: D. Butkovic, B. Ognancevic & B. Puzak
        1988-08-05
        Huandoy Este, Cara SE,
        First ascent        		Cara SE: A. Baker & G.E. Little
        2012-08-17
        Huandoy Este, HK,
        First ascent        		HK: Joshua Larrín & Juliana García
        North side
        Arista N. D; 500m, 2-3 days. 1952-08-01First ascentP. Hoessly & F. Hoyt, 1952-08-01.
        Cara N (Cara NE). TD; V+; 500m, 2-3 days. 1985-06-13First ascentD. Butkovic, B. Ognancevic & B. Puzak, 1985-06-13.
        NE ridge
        NE ridge. D+; 550m, 2 days. 1975-08-07First ascentR. Casarotto, F. Piana & S. Martini, 1975-08-07.
        SE side
        Cara SE. TD+; 70-80°; 600m, 2-3 days. 1988-08-05First ascentA. Baker & G.E. Little, 1988-08-05.
        West ridge
        West ridge (Arista Oeste, Corrredor SE & arista SSO). D+; 1300m, 2-3 days. 1969-08-01First ascentJ. Hudson & R. Laba, 1969-08.
        NW face
        HK. TD+; V+, M3/4; 1300m. 2012-08-17First ascentJoshua Larrín & Juliana García, 2012-08-17.
        FA party stopped when gaining north ridge at ~5900m.

        Huascaran

        Huascaran

        Huascarán Sur-9.121389-77.6088896746
        Highest peak in Cordillera Blanca. Normal route via Garganmta is one of the least technical routes on big peaks in the range, however the access to Garganta has ice fall danger and may have difficult crevasses depending on a situation. Escudo is another route that sees some traffic, other routes are seldomly climbed.
        1932-07-20
        Huascarán Sur, Garganta,
        First ascent        		Garganta: H. Bernard, P. Barchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin & S. Schneider
        1958-07-29
        Huascarán Sur, Caras S & O del P6432, arista SE,
        First ascent        		Caras S & O del P6432, arista SE: F. Ayres, H,. Kendall, W.V.G. Matthews,l D. Michael, I. Ortenburger & L.N. Ortenburger
        1961-07-18
        Huascarán Sur, Espanola,
        First ascent        		Espanola: P. Acuña, A. Pérez, S. Rivas & Fortunato Mautino
        1969-07-15
        Huascarán Sur, Escudo,
        First ascent        		Escudo: W. Broda, J. Merler & Segger
        1971-06-21
        Huascarán Sur, Arista SE,
        First ascent        		Arista SE: B. Jenkinson, M. Jones & J. Strang
        1978-08-07
        Huascarán Sur, Arista S, arista SE,
        First ascent        		Arista S, arista SE: E. van Camp, D. Caise, C. Granduvant, A. Debelobbe & G. Gysen
        1979-08-08
        Huascarán Sur, Austriaca Directa,
        First ascent        		Austriaca Directa: F. Six & A. Indrich
        1980-07-07
        Huascarán Sur, Glaciar NE, cara N,
        First ascent        		Glaciar NE, cara N: J. Agulló, T. Bros, J. Anglès, J. Prunes, R. Biosca & R. Pajares
        1985-07-14
        Huascarán Sur, Francesa,
        First ascent        		Francesa: B. Grison
        1985-07-29
        Huascarán Sur, Cara N & arista NE,
        First ascent        		Cara N & arista NE: C.P. Buhler & S. Wood
        1991-07-14
        Huascarán Sur, Slovenian route,
        First ascent        		Slovenian route: P. Kozjek
        1993-07-21
        Huascarán Sur, Pilar N & arista NE,
        First ascent        		Pilar N & arista NE: M. Kovač, B. Ložar & T. Petač
        1995-06-26
        Huascarán Sur, Arista SSO, arista SE,
        First ascent        		Arista SSO, arista SE: D. Debelak, T. Žerovnik, A: Pepevnik & V. Mlinar
        • Kiendler pp.64-8
        PD/AD.
        North side
        All routes are 1500m long, objectively dangerous, difficult (TD-ED2) and take around 3-4 days.
        Turbera. TD+; M5, A1; 1200m.
        Espanola (Arista NE, NE ridge). TD+; 1350m. 1961-07-18First ascentP. Acuña, A. Pérez, S. Rivas & Fortunato Mautino, 1961-07-18.
        • Bohórquez #298
        • Tomé pp.131#1
        Pilar N & arista NE (Pilar NE, Eslovena). ED; VI+,A1, 90°; 1300m. 1993-07-21First ascentM. Kovač, B. Ložar & T. Petač, 1993-07-21.
        • Bohórquez #299
        • Tomé pp.133#2
        Slovenian route (Kozjek). VI TD+; VI/AI3-4/80°, IV/V; 1300m. 1991-07-14First ascentP. Kozjek, 1991-07-14.
        Combination of Buhler-Wood & Francesa.
        Cara N & arista NE (Buhler-Wood, American route). VI TD; 60-65°, V; 1200m. 1985-07-29First ascentC.P. Buhler & S. Wood, 1985-07-29.
        Probably the easiest route on the face. Serious.
        Francesa (Cara N, arista NE). ED; 1300m. 1985-07-14First ascentB. Grison, 1985-07-14.
        Glaciar NE, cara N (Cascade Este, Cascade de hielo E). Glacier, D; 1150m. 1980-07-07First ascentJ. Agulló, T. Bros, J. Anglès, J. Prunes, R. Biosca & R. Pajares, 1980-07-07.
        East face
        Wide face framed with SE and NE ridges.
        Arista SE (Traversio aristas E, SE & NE). TD; 1800m, 4+ days. 1971-06-21First ascentB. Jenkinson, M. Jones & J. Strang, 1971-06-21.
        via P6040 & P6410.
        Austriaca Directa (Cara Este). TD; V, 70°; 1295m, 4+ days. 1979-08-08First ascentF. Six & A. Indrich, 1979-08-08.
        South side
        Caras S & O del P6432, arista SE. D+; 1800m. 1958-07-29First ascentF. Ayres, H,. Kendall, W.V.G. Matthews,l D. Michael, I. Ortenburger & L.N. Ortenburger, 1958-07-29.
        Arista SSO, arista SE. TD; IV+, 50-85°; 1650m. 1995-06-26First ascentD. Debelak, T. Žerovnik, A: Pepevnik & V. Mlinar, 1995-06-26.
        • Bohórquez #290
        Arista S, arista SE. 1978-08-07First ascentE. van Camp, D. Caise, C. Granduvant, A. Debelobbe & G. Gysen, 1978-08-07.
        • Bohórquez #291
        West side
        Garganta (Glacier Oeste, Ruta N, NW Ridge). Snow/ice, PD/AD/nccs IV 45; II, 45°; 6-8h from Garganta. 3624m, 4-7 days round trip from Musho. 1932-07-20First ascentH. Bernard, P. Barchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin & S. Schneider, 1932-07-20.
        Normal route, classic. Normal route located on the west slope, regarded as one of the easiest technical climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. Possibly serious. Lots of glacier travel with big crevasses. Avalanche danger unavoidable. The key is the access through icefall (45°) to Garganta, the col between South and North summits (5980m, C1 at 4900m, C2 at 5400m). From there to summit snow and ice up to 40°.
        • Johnson pp.122-123
        • Tomé pp.135#6
        • Kiendler #B12
        • Sharman pp.60
        • World Mountaineering pp.146#9
        • Bohórquez #287
        • Biggar 2005 pp.72-3
        Escudo (Shield, West Face, Arista Oeste, Cara O, arista O). Ice, D; 40-60°; 400/1000m. 10h from Garganta camp (5900m). 1969-07-15First ascentW. Broda, J. Merler & Segger, 1969-07-15.
        Started from the climb to Garganta camp via a traverse to the west face. Ice wall known as "Shield" is gained at 6000m. At the top of the ice wall route joins to NW Ridge (normal route) at 6400m.
        Huascarán Norte-9.102563-77.619616655
        Lower of the Huascaran peaks. Name might suggest it would be merely a subsidiary summit. However, it has a primary factor of roughly 650m meters (from Garganta) which should be enough to make it count as independent mountain indeed. Despite being lower than Huascarán Sur, the peak is more important climbing goal than its southern neighbor for those in search of technically challenging climbing. Both NE and north faces have several difficult mixed routes.
        1908-09-02
        Huascarán Norte, Garganta,
        First ascent        		Garganta: A. Peck, R. Taugwalder & G. zum Taugwald
        1966-07-10
        Huascarán Norte, Paragot,
        First ascent        		Paragot: R. Jacob, C. Jaccoux, D. Leprince-Ringuet & Robert Paragot
        1972-08-18
        Huascarán Norte, Arista NE,
        First ascent        		Arista NE: R. Coëne, M. Fevrier, J. Fréhel & J.F. Porret
        1973-08-18
        Huascarán Norte, French Direct,
        First ascent        		French Direct: Maurice Barrand, Liliane Barrand, L. Desnivières, G. Norbaud & J.J. Ricouard
        1974-07-25
        Huascarán Norte, Ruta Italiana,
        First ascent        		Ruta Italiana: E. Detonasi, C. Piazzo, D. Saettone & R. Vidone
        1977-06-21
        Huascarán Norte, Casarotto,
        First ascent        		Casarotto: Renato Casarotto
        1978-06-08
        Huascarán Norte, Arista NO, arista O,
        First ascent        		Arista NO, arista O: I. Lesjak, F. Knez & M. Culk
        1980-06-21
        Huascarán Norte, Variante Cara NE,
        First ascent        		Variante Cara NE: Y. Astier & J.M. Boucansaud
        1981-07-26
        Huascarán Norte, Cara NO, arista NO,
        First ascent        		Cara NO, arista NO: J. de Skeeper
        1983-07-20
        Huascarán Norte, Catalana,
        First ascent        		Catalana: J.L. Moreno, J. Tomás & C. Vallés
        1986-05-23
        Huascarán Norte, Suiza,
        First ascent        		Suiza: D. Anker & K. Saurer
        • Kiendler pp.68-9
        North face
        There are several difficult routes between grades ED1 and ED3 on the 1600m north face of Huascaran Norte: "Casarotto" (ED3) and "Paragot" (ED1) are probably the best known.
        Catalana. ED+; 80-90°, A3; 1350m. 1983-07-20First ascentJ.L. Moreno, J. Tomás & C. Vallés, 1983-07-20.
        Suiza. ED+; 50-90°, 4c-6b; 1300m, 4 days. 1986-05-23First ascentD. Anker & K. Saurer, 1986-05-23.
        Casarotto (Italian Direttissima). ED3; A2/3,VI+; 1350m. 1977-06-21First ascentRenato Casarotto, 1977-06-21.
        Paragot (North Peak French Route). Mixed, ED1; 80-90°, V-,A1/V+; 1600m. 1966-07-10First ascentR. Jacob, C. Jaccoux, D. Leprince-Ringuet & Robert Paragot, 1966-07-10.
        Classic. Classic hard route, relatively often climbed. Steep ice, lots of mixed climbing and difficult rock.
        • Johnson pp.112-3
        • American Alpine Journal, year: 1967.
        • Tomé pp.132#6
        • Sharman pp.55
        • World Mountaineering pp.146#7
        • Bohórquez #280
        • Biggar 2005 pp.72-3
        Cara NO, arista NO. ED+; 60°, V; 1350m. 1981-07-26First ascentJ. de Skeeper, 1981-07-26.
        • Bohórquez #279
        NE ridge
        Long ridge separating North and NE faces.
        Arista NE. TD+; IV-V; 1300, 4-5 days. 1972-08-18First ascentR. Coëne, M. Fevrier, J. Fréhel & J.F. Porret, 1972-08-18.
        NE face
        Somewhat easier than the North face. Classic routes include "French Direct" on NE Face (TD/ED, uiaa V,A2, 60°), and NE Ridge (ED1, uiaa V, 65°))
        French Direct. TD+; V+,A2, 60°; 1350m, 2+ days. 1973-08-18First ascentMaurice Barrand, Liliane Barrand, L. Desnivières, G. Norbaud & J.J. Ricouard, 1973-08-18.
        Variante Cara NE. 1980-06-21First ascentY. Astier & J.M. Boucansaud, 1980-06-21.
        • Bohórquez #286
        South side
        Garganta (South Ridge, South slopes from Garganta, Arista Sur). Snow/ice, PD+/AD-; 30-40°; 650m, 6-7h from Garganta. 3624m, 4-7 days round trip from Musho. 1908-09-02First ascentA. Peck, R. Taugwalder & G. zum Taugwald, 1908-09-02.
        Normal route. Base camp at 4150m. Lots of glacier travel with big crevasses. Avalanche danger unavoidable. The key is the access through icefall (45°) to Garganta, the col between South and North summits (5980m, C1 at 4900m, C2 at 5400m).
        • Johnson pp.120-1
        • Tomé pp.135#6
        • Kiendler #B11
        • Tomé pp.132#9
        • Sharman pp.57
        • World Mountaineering pp.146#1
        • Bohórquez #276
        • Biggar 2005 pp.72-3
        NW side
        Ruta Italiana (Arista NO, Arista O). TD+; V,A1; 1350m, 2-4 days from the camp at 4800m. 1974-07-25First ascentE. Detonasi, C. Piazzo, D. Saettone & R. Vidone, 1974-07-25.
        Arista NO, arista O (Cara NO). TD; 60°; 1350m. 1978-06-08First ascentI. Lesjak, F. Knez & M. Culk, 1978-06-08.
        • Bohórquez #278

        Chopicalqui

        Chopicalqui-9.086667-77.5738896345
        Chopicalqui is possibly the most climbed 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca. The peak has four main ridges, long NW ridge with North summit from Portachuelo de Llanganuco, NE and East ridges (the latter with P5575/Chopicalqui Este) and SW ridge from col between Huascarán Sur and Chopicalqui (5400m, with P5666). West face bordered by NW and SW ridges facing facing quebrada Ancosh is the most climbed feature. SW Ridge is the normal route and among the more popular routes in the range. NW ridge via north summit is far more difficult proposition. There are several more routes on the face joining either one of the ridges. Significantly more difficult SE ridge also sees some traffic.
        1932-08-03
        Chopicalqui, SW ridge,
        First ascent        		SW ridge: H. Hoerlin, E. Schneider, P. Borchens & E. Hein
        1961-07-18
        Chopicalqui, Pendientes SE,
        First ascent        		Pendientes SE: G. Kämpfe & C. Shiel
        1969-06-20
        Chopicalqui, SE ridge,
        First ascent        		SE ridge: M. Clarbrough & G. Wyatt
        1969-07-12
        Chopicalqui, NW Ridge,
        First ascent        		NW Ridge: A. Cooper, B. Everett, J. Janney & W. Phillips
        1979-08-08
        Chopicalqui, Cara S, arista O,
        First ascent        		Cara S, arista O: Y. Uejima & H. Kamuro
        1981-07-02
        Chopicalqui, Espolón O-NO,
        First ascent        		Espolón O-NO: M. Rolland, J.J. Rolland, A. Roberts & H. Sigayret
        1982-06-22
        Chopicalqui, Cara Oeste,
        First ascent        		Cara Oeste: F. Knez & M. Freser
        1982-07-24
        Chopicalqui, Cara NO,
        First ascent        		Cara NO: E. Dossin
        1982-08-25
        Chopicalqui, East ridge,
        First ascent        		East ridge: Chappaz, R. Desmaison, A. Vagne & M. Arizzi
        • Radehose pp.98
        • Kiendler pp.59-63
        NE side
        East side
        East ridge (Arista Este). Snow/rock, TD+/ED-; 1000m, 3-4 days. 1982-08-25First ascentChappaz, R. Desmaison, A. Vagne & M. Arizzi, 1982-08-25.
        SE side
        SE ridge (Arista SE, East face Direct). Snow/rock, TD; V, 80°; 950/2050m, 4-5 days round trip from Huaraz. 1969-06-20First ascentM. Clarbrough & G. Wyatt, 1969-06-20.
        • Bohórquez #309
        • Johnson pp.132-3
        • NZ Alpine Journal 1970
        • Tomé pp.141#9
        • Sharman pp.62
        South side
        Pendientes SE (var. Arista SO). Glacier, AD; 1200m, 2-3 days. 1961-07-18First ascentG. Kämpfe & C. Shiel, 1961-07-18.
        Cara S, arista O (Cara Sur). Snow/rock, TD; 1200m, 2-3 days. 1979-08-08First ascentY. Uejima & H. Kamuro, 1979-08-08.
        West side
        The west side of Chopicalqui is bordered by NW ridge with Chopicalqui Norte forming the left hand border and SW ridge forming the right hand border. The face in between has several routes that join either one of the ridges before reaching the summit. Several of the routes end at lower north summit, from where it is possible to continue tio main summit along NW ridge.
        SW ridge (Arista SO). Glacier, IV AD; 65°; 760m, 5-7h from high camp. Total 2150m. 1-2 days round trip from moraine camp (4800m). Col camp at 5600m. 1932-08-03First ascentH. Hoerlin, E. Schneider, P. Borchens & E. Hein, 1932-08-03.
        Normal route, classic. Easiest and most frequented route on 6000m peak from quebrada Llanganuco. Grading seems to vary a great deal between different sources (PD-D). Generally moraine camp is placed on glacier moraine at 4800m (3-5 from the road) and col at 5600m (2-4h from moraine camp).
        • Johnson pp.106-7
        • Frimer pp.40-1
        • Tomé pp.140#6
        • Kiendler #B10
        • Sharman pp.62
        • Bohórquez #319
        • Biggar 2005 pp.75
        Cara Oeste. Snow/rock, TD; 1100m, 2+ days. 1982-06-22First ascentF. Knez & M. Freser, 1982-06-22.
        NW side
        Difficult routes on NW and W faces.
        NW Ridge (Arista NO). Snow/rock, TD+; 50-60°; 1300m, 2-3 days. 1969-07-12First ascentA. Cooper, B. Everett, J. Janney & W. Phillips, 1969-07-12.
        • A 3-day ride with Señor Chopicalqui. In the case of the Nevado Chopicalqui (6345m), it was a simple picture that awoke our curiosity, even before we knew where the Cordillera Blanca was. To us, the Northwest ridge seemed to be a perfect climb, combining a beautiful mountain with technical difficulties (TD, 2-3 days, source Biggar 1996/ Reedition 2005). By kenzderbenz at Rock 'n' Ice in the Andes on 2012-09-23.
        Espolón O-NO. Snow/rock, TD+; V+; 1300m, 2+ days. 1981-07-02First ascentM. Rolland, J.J. Rolland, A. Roberts & H. Sigayret, 1981-07-02.
        Cara NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 1300m, 2+ days. 1982-07-24First ascentE. Dossin, 1982-07-24.
        Chopicalqui Norte-9.0790-77.57726050
        Located on NW ridge of Chopicalqui. It is possible to continue from Chopicalqui Norte to main summit along NW ridge.
        1969-07-12
        Chopicalqui Norte, Arista NO,
        First ascent        		Arista NO: A. Cooper, B. Everett, J. Janney & W. Phillips
        1981-07-02
        Chopicalqui Norte, Espolón O-NO,
        First ascent        		Espolón O-NO: M. Rolland, J.J. Rolland, A. Roberts & H. Sigayret
        1982-07-24
        Chopicalqui Norte, Cara NO,
        First ascent        		Cara NO: E. Dossin
        1986-05-25
        Chopicalqui Norte, Cara NO & Arista NO,
        First ascent        		Cara NO & Arista NO: D. Tic & M. Romih
        1998-01-01
        Chopicalqui Norte, Mirton Extreme,
        First ascent        		Mirton Extreme: P. Kozjek
        North face
        Mixed face towards quebrada Llanganuco and Portachuelo de Llanganuco. There are several routes leading to summit from where it is possible to continue from Chopicalqui Norte to main summit along NW ridge.
        Mirton Extreme (Cara Norte). Snow/rock, TD+; 800m, 2+ days. 1998-01-01First ascentP. Kozjek, 1998.
        • Tomé pp.138#1
        • Bohórquez #320
        NW side
        Arista NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 1000m, 2+ days. 1969-07-12First ascentA. Cooper, B. Everett, J. Janney & W. Phillips, 1969-07-12.
        Cara NO & Arista NO. Snow/rock, TD; 1100m, 2+ days. 1986-05-25First ascentD. Tic & M. Romih, 1986-05-25.
        Cara NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 1100m, 2+ days. 1982-07-24First ascentE. Dossin, 1982-07-24.
        Espolón O-NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 1000m, 2+ days. 1981-07-02First ascentM. Rolland, J.J. Rolland, A. Roberts & H. Sigayret, 1981-07-02.

        Copa

        Conrahierbas

        Cajavilca

        Cajavilca I-9.0940-77.48475775
        1966-07-27
        Cajavilca I, Arista Norte,
        First ascent        		Arista Norte: John Ricker & Lisle Irwin
        North side
        Arista Norte. Glacier, PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1966-07-27First ascentJohn Ricker & Lisle Irwin, 1966-07-27.
        FA party climbed Cajavilca II from where they traversed to Cajavilca I.
        Cajavilca II-9.0872-77.48295675
        1966-07-22
        Cajavilca II, Arista NO,
        First ascent        		Arista NO: John Ricker & Lisle Irwin
        North side
        Arista NO. Glacier, PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1966-07-22First ascentJohn Ricker & Lisle Irwin, 1966-07-22.
        FA party climbed Cajavilca II from where they traversed to Cajavilca I.
        Cajavilca III-9.0819-77.47915419
        1966-07-01
        Cajavilca III, Glaciar Norte,
        First ascent        		Glaciar Norte: John Ricker & Lisle Irwin
        2007-01-01
        Cajavilca III, SE face,
        First ascent        		SE face: Tony Barton & John Pearson
        North side
        Glaciar Norte. Glacier, PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1966-07-01First ascentJohn Ricker & Lisle Irwin, 1966-07.
        SE face
        SE face. AD+; 70°; 550m. 2007-01-01First ascentTony Barton & John Pearson, 2007.
        • New places, new faces in the Cordillera Blanca. Although the mountains north and east of Huaraz must rank as some of the most frequented in South America, Peru's Cordillera Blanca still holds many secrets. Tony Barton from the UK, on his sixth trip to Peru, recently climbed two new routes in rarely visited areas. With John Pearson, a current Huaraz resident, he traveled to the jungle side of the range and from there approached the Contrahierbas Massif from the northeast. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2007-09-27.

        Conrahierbas

        Contrahierbas (Yanaraju, Ruriqocha)-9.105868-77.4903125954
        Vast mountain that is very seldomly climbed. Not too technical, but tricky crevasses need to be negotiated.
        1939-05-28
        Contrahierbas, Arista N-NE,
        First ascent        		Arista N-NE: S. Rorhrer, K, Schmid & H. Schweizer
        1958-07-20
        Contrahierbas, Arista NO,
        First ascent        		Arista NO: F. Ayres, H. Kendall, W. Mathews, D. Michael, I. Ortenburger, L. Ortenburger & G. Whitmore
        • Yuraq Janka pp.87
        Arista N-NE
        Arista N-NE. Glacier, AD; 1000m, 2 days. 1939-05-28First ascentS. Rorhrer, K, Schmid & H. Schweizer, 1939-05-28.
        • Tomé pp.145#2
        • Sharman pp.64
        • Biggar 2005 pp.76
        East face
        • New places, new faces in the Cordillera Blanca. Although the mountains north and east of Huaraz must rank as some of the most frequented in South America, Peru's Cordillera Blanca still holds many secrets. Tony Barton from the UK, on his sixth trip to Peru, recently climbed two new routes in rarely visited areas. With John Pearson, a current Huaraz resident, he traveled to the jungle side of the range and from there approached the Contrahierbas Massif from the northeast. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2007-09-27.
        SW ridge
        Long ridge from Punta Olimpica with P5480 and P5609.
        Arista NO
        Arista NO (NW ridge). Glacier, AD; 1000m, 2 days. 1958-07-20First ascentF. Ayres, H. Kendall, W. Mathews, D. Michael, I. Ortenburger, L. Ortenburger & G. Whitmore, 1958-07-20.

        Ulta

        Ulta-9.1491-77.52245875
        Difficult from all sides, supposedly comparable in difficulty to Taulliraju but less famous. Established climbs are to be found on NE and particularly NW faces.
        1961-01-01
        Ulta, Cara NE,
        First ascent        		Cara NE: K. Bogner,G. Kampfe,R. Hechtel & D. Liska
        1977-08-18
        Ulta, Cara NO,
        First ascent        		Cara NO: O. Danson & D. Cheesemond
        1981-01-01
        Ulta, East ridge,
        First ascent        		East ridge: Waldo McQuiod
        2002-06-08
        Ulta, NW face Direct,
        First ascent        		NW face Direct: Nick Bullock
        2002-06-10
        Ulta, NW face Direct,
        First ascent        		NW face Direct: Al Powell & Owen Samuel
        2003-08-20
        Ulta, Personal Jesus,
        First ascent        		Personal Jesus: Kelly Cordes & Jim Earl
        2008-07-18
        Ulta, Andinista-Rifnik,
        First ascent        		Andinista-Rifnik: Aritza Montasterio & Viktor Mlinar
        • Sharman pp.65
        • Biggar 2005 pp.76
        North ridge
        Long ridge from Punta Olimpica with P.5325 and P.5375 (Ako).
        Cara NE
        Cara NE (NE ridge). Mixed, TD; 1000m, 2-3 days. 1961-01-01First ascentK. Bogner,G. Kampfe,R. Hechtel & D. Liska, 1961.
        East ridge
        Long ridge separating quebrada Cancaraca Chica in the north and quebrada Cancaraca Grande in the south.
        East ridge. TD. 1981-01-01First ascentWaldo McQuiod, 1981.
        South ridge
        From the col between Ulta and Chugllaraju.
        Cara NO
        Cara NO. Mixed, TD+; 1000m. 1977-08-18First ascentO. Danson & D. Cheesemond, 1977-08-18.
        NW face Direct. ED2; 1000m. 2002-06-08First ascentNick Bullock, 2002-06-08.
        NW face Direct. ED1; Sco VI; 1000m, 3 days. 2002-06-10First ascentAl Powell & Owen Samuel, 2002-06-10.
        Personal Jesus. ED2; 5.9, M7; 1000m. 2003-08-20First ascentKelly Cordes & Jim Earl, 2003-08-20.
        Andinista-Rifnik. TD+/ED; VI, WI4+; 650m, 18h. 2008-07-18First ascentAritza Montasterio & Viktor Mlinar, 2008-07-18.
        Chugllaraju-9.1587-77.52855585
        Located immediately SW to Ulta. The peaks has three main ridges: NE ridge from Ulta-Chugllaraju col, S(W) ridge from Chugllaraju-Cancaracá col and west ridge dividing the west side to NE and West faces. Plenty of room for new routes.
        1961-07-12
        Chugllaraju, Cara NO,
        First ascent        		Cara NO: K. Bogner, E. Erdmann & C. Schiel
        2005-01-01
        Chugllaraju, West face,
        First ascent        		West face: Tony Barton & John Pearson
        NE side
        Cara NO. Snow, D; 700m, 1-2 days. 1961-07-12First ascentK. Bogner, E. Erdmann & C. Schiel, 1961-07-12.
        West side
        West face. Snow, TD-; Sco 5/60-85°; 350m, 9 pitches. 2005-01-01First ascentTony Barton & John Pearson, 2005.
        Cancaracá-9.1740-77.53355512
        1973-07-27
        Cancaracá, Arista Oeste,
        First ascent        		Arista Oeste: G. Bianchi, C. Nembrini & F. Robecchi
        West side
        Arista Oeste. Glacier, TD; 600m, 2-3 days. 1973-07-27First ascentG. Bianchi, C. Nembrini & F. Robecchi, 1973-07-27.
        Chequiaraju-9.1732-77.55805286
        Located between Ulta and Hualcan, on the spur left from Cancarraca at the start of quebrada Ulta Ulta on its east side. Western aspect is accessible from quebrada Ulta, NE from laguna Huallcacocha and SE from quebrada Gatay (Laguna Auquiscocha). Little visited but appears to be ideal for acclimatization and practicable to do so in 2 or 3 days.
        1960-07-01
        Chequiaraju, East side,
        First ascent        		East side: M. Angeles, E. Bauer, D. Brown, C. Heller, H. Kendall, J. Lomont, P. Morales & O. Zuniga
        North side
        • Sharman pp.65
        East side
        East side. F. 1960-07-01First ascentM. Angeles, E. Bauer, D. Brown, C. Heller, H. Kendall, J. Lomont, P. Morales & O. Zuniga, 1960-07.
        • Biggar 2005 pp.77
        • Sharman pp.66

        Hualcan

        Hualcan Este (Wallqan, Hualcan)-9.2048-77.51886160
        Together with nearby Copa, Hualcan forms a large glacier plateau which is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering. East side is little explored despite not being too remote.
        1939-08-01
        Hualcan Este, South Ridge from West glacier,
        First ascent        		South Ridge from West glacier: S. Rohrer & K. Schmid
        1975-07-07
        Hualcan Este, Arista SO,
        First ascent        		Arista SO: J. Curry Slaymaker & David Ciochetti
        AD/D.
        South side
        South Ridge from West glacier (Arista Sur). AD+; 1100m, 5-7h from high camp. 1939-08-01First ascentS. Rohrer & K. Schmid, 1939-08.
        Camp on west glacier at 5200m.
        • Kiendler #B13
        • Tomé pp.151#2
        • Sharman pp.66
        • Biggar 2005 pp.77
        Arista SO (SW ridge). D; 50-60°; 1100m. 1975-07-07First ascentJ. Curry Slaymaker & David Ciochetti, 1975-07-07.
        Traverse from West summit (Oeste) to main summit.
        Hualcan Oeste-9.2054-77.52476104
        1975-07-07
        Hualcan Oeste, Arista SO,
        First ascent        		Arista SO: J. Curry Slaymaker & David Ciochetti
        • Sharman pp.66
        South side
        Arista NE. PD; 1000m, 2-3 days.
        • Tomé pp.151#2
        Arista SO. PD; 50-55°; 1000m, 2-3 days. 1975-07-07First ascentJ. Curry Slaymaker & David Ciochetti, 1975-07-07.
        Same route as Arista SO on Hualcan Este until the west summit.
        • Tomé pp.151#1

        Copa

        Copa Sur (Copa)-9.2700-77.48126188
        1932-09-26
        Copa Sur, West slopes,
        First ascent        		West slopes: E. Hein & E. Schneider
        1962-07-11
        Copa Sur, SE face,
        First ascent        		SE face: D. Anderson, J. Humphrey & J. Richardson
        2003-01-01
        Copa Sur, Mostro Africano,
        First ascent        		Mostro Africano:
        • Sharman pp.67
        PD/AD.
        South side
        SE face (Cara E, arista SO). AD/D. 1962-07-11First ascentD. Anderson, J. Humphrey & J. Richardson, 1962-07-11.
        South ridge. 80°; 1500m.
        Mostro Africano. ED; V WI6; 800m. 2003-01-01Copa Sur, Mostro Africano, First ascent , 2003.
        West side
        West slopes (Rampas del Oeste). PD/AD; 45°; 1100m, 9-10h. 1932-09-26First ascentE. Hein & E. Schneider, 1932-09-26.
        • Johnson pp.140-1
        • Kiendler #B14
        • Tomé pp.152#1
        • Sharman pp.67
        Copa Norte-9.255292-77.4797986125
        1932-01-01
        Copa Norte, Rampas Oeste,
        First ascent        		Rampas Oeste: P. Borchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, H. Kinzl & E. Schneider
        1964-06-30
        Copa Norte, South Ridge,
        First ascent        		South Ridge: H. Abrons, L. & I. Ortenburger
        PD.
        South Ridge
        South Ridge (Arista Sur). AD; 1100m, 2-3h. 1964-06-30First ascentH. Abrons, L. & I. Ortenburger, 1964-06-30.
        West side
        Rampas Oeste. PD-; 1100m, 3 days. 1932-01-01First ascentP. Borchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, H. Kinzl & E. Schneider, 1932.
        • Tomé pp.152#1
        • Sharman pp.67
        Vicos (Paccharuri)-9.2935-77.48645525
        1952-07-17
        Vicos, Rampas N-NO,
        First ascent        		Rampas N-NO: A. Morales, A. Gamara, J. Mariategui, J. Torres, J. Vidal & Vidal
        • Sharman pp.67
        • Biggar 2005 pp.78
        North side
        Rampas N-NO. F; 40°; 700m, 1 day. 1952-07-17First ascentA. Morales, A. Gamara, J. Mariategui, J. Torres, J. Vidal & Vidal, 1952-07-17.
        • Tomé pp.153#1
        South side
        S-N traverse. F; 40°; 6h.

        Paccharaju

        Paccharaju-9.2752-77.43225741
        1962-07-04
        Paccharaju, SW slopes,
        First ascent        		SW slopes: D. Anderson, L. Carter, J. Richardson, M. Carter, P. Carter, R. Goody, J. Humphreys, M. McDade & C. Staples
        1991-07-28
        Paccharaju, SW ridge,
        First ascent        		SW ridge: G. Feichtenschlager & D.M. Sharman
        South side
        SW ridge. AD; 50°; 1000m, 4-5h. 1991-07-28First ascentG. Feichtenschlager & D.M. Sharman, 1991-07-28.
        • Tomé pp.153#2
        SW slopes (Rampas SO). AD; 60°; 1000m, 3-4h. 1962-07-04First ascentD. Anderson, L. Carter, J. Richardson, M. Carter, P. Carter, R. Goody, J. Humphreys, M. McDade & C. Staples, 1962-07-04.
        The original ascent of this face by Americans in 1962 was grade Alpine F but conditions have changed dramatically. Huge rimaye (80) blocks the access to the face (two pitches of 60).
        Paccharaju Norte I-9.2710-77.43675665
        1962-07-04
        Paccharaju Norte I, SW face,
        First ascent        		SW face: D. Anderson, L. Carter & J. Richardson
        South side
        SW face. PD+; 45°; 1000m, 1 day. 1962-07-04First ascentD. Anderson, L. Carter & J. Richardson, 1962-07-04.
        Paccharaju Norte II5600
        1962-07-05
        Paccharaju Norte II, South face,
        First ascent        		South face: R. Goody, J. Humphreys, C. Staples, P. Carter & J. Richardson
        South side
        South face. PD; 900m, 1 day. 1962-07-05First ascentR. Goody, J. Humphreys, C. Staples, P. Carter & J. Richardson, 1962-07-05.
        Atlante-9.2758-77.41835465
        1968-08-03
        Atlante, SE side,
        First ascent        		SE side: A. Ketchin & G. Ziegler
        SE side
        SE side. PD; 600m, 1 day roundtrip. 1968-08-03First ascentA. Ketchin & G. Ziegler, 1968-08-03.

        Perlilla

        Copap

        Copap I (Yanatsilca Norte, Qupap)-9.3085-77.31245579
        • Sharman pp.69-70
        Copap II (Yanatsilca Sur)-9.3106-77.31445567
        • Sharman pp.69-70
        Copap IV (Condormina Sur)-9.3284-77.31845566
        1971-07-19
        Copap IV, Arista NO,
        First ascent        		Arista NO: M. Dupert, J. Jaunin, L. Rentchnik & P. Stanko
        NW side
        Arista NO. PD; 700m, 12h. 1971-07-19First ascentM. Dupert, J. Jaunin, L. Rentchnik & P. Stanko, 1971-07-19.
        • Sharman pp.69-70
        Copap III (Condormina Norte)-9.3228-77.32065551
        • Sharman pp.69-70
        Copap V5300
        1973-08-01
        Copap V, Rampas Sur,
        First ascent        		Rampas Sur: D. Baumford & R. Rowlands
        South side
        Rampas Sur (South slopes). F; 500m, 1 day. 1973-08-01First ascentD. Baumford & R. Rowlands, 1973-08.
        • Sharman pp.69-70
        NW side
        Rampas NO. F; 500m, 1 day.

        Perlilla

        Perlilla-9.2904-77.31525587
        1966-07-14
        Perlilla, South ridge,
        First ascent        		South ridge: M. Ishinabe, A. Kurihara, A. Miyahara, S. Ooe & T. Suzuki
        South ridge
        South ridge. F. 1966-07-14First ascentM. Ishinabe, A. Kurihara, A. Miyahara, S. Ooe & T. Suzuki, 1966-07-14.

        Chinchey

        Tocllaraju group

        Hatun Ulloc

        Hatun Ulloc (Ishinca Tower)4800
        2005-01-01
        Hatun Ulloc, Karma de Los Condores,
        First ascent        		Karma de Los Condores: Wayne Crill & Kevin Gallagher
        2006-01-01
        Hatun Ulloc, Compañia Vertical,
        First ascent        		Compañia Vertical: Hans-Martin Troebs & Marc Wolff
        2008-01-01
        Hatun Ulloc, Karma de Los Condores Direct,
        First ascent        		Karma de Los Condores Direct: Dave Anderson & Brady Robinson
        Ishinca Tower
        Karma de Los Condores. Rock, nccs IV 5.11d; 9 pitches. 2005-01-01First ascentWayne Crill & Kevin Gallagher, 2005.
        Karma de Los Condores Direct. Rock, nccs V 5.11+R; 14 pitches. 2008-01-01First ascentDave Anderson & Brady Robinson, 2008.
        East Face
        Compañia Vertical. Rock, 5.12b/7b, 6b obl.; 200m. 2006-01-01First ascentHans-Martin Troebs & Marc Wolff, 2006.
        Ishik Ulloc (Ulloc Chico)
        2005-06-25
        Ishik Ulloc, Lawak,
        First ascent        		Lawak: Marco Serra, Carlos Macotela & José Guerrero
        2006-06-01
        Ishik Ulloc, Con Ojeras Debajo de Ojos Vidriosos,
        First ascent        		Con Ojeras Debajo de Ojos Vidriosos: Alexander Schmalz-Friedberger & Michael Zettelmeyer
        Con Ojeras Debajo de Ojos Vidriosos. 5.10+ C2; 180m. 2006-06-01First ascentAlexander Schmalz-Friedberger & Michael Zettelmeyer, 2006-06.
        Lawak. 5.11 A1. 2005-06-25First ascentMarco Serra, Carlos Macotela & José Guerrero, 2005-06-25.

        Urus

        Urus Central-9.35714-77.447925495
        1974-11-13
        Urus Central, Vertiente SE,
        First ascent        		Vertiente SE: A. Morales & C. Morales
        2010-09-17
        Urus Central, El Vuelo del Inca,
        First ascent        		El Vuelo del Inca: Beto Pinto & Eric Albino
        SE side
        Vertiente SE. PD; 1 day. 1974-11-13First ascentA. Morales & C. Morales, 1974-11-13.
        • Tomé pp.168#1
        • Sharman pp.76
        El Vuelo del Inca. Ice/mixed, TD+; 6a, M5/70-90°; 360m. 2010-09-17First ascentBeto Pinto & Eric Albino, 2010-09-17.
        Urus Oeste-9.3611-77.45585450
        1963-08-03
        Urus Oeste, Vertiente SE,
        First ascent        		Vertiente SE: G. Apotheloz, D. Bach, A. Bezinge, G. de Rham, J Fatton & C. Jaquet
        1968-07-04
        Urus Oeste, Cara Este,
        First ascent        		Cara Este: F. Luchsinger & A. Zimmerli
        SE side
        Vertiente SE. 1-2h from high camp. 1963-08-03First ascentG. Apotheloz, D. Bach, A. Bezinge, G. de Rham, J Fatton & C. Jaquet, 1963-08-03.
        • Tomé pp.168#1
        • Sharman pp.76
        East Face
        Cara Este. PD+; 1 day (1-2h from high camp). 1968-07-04First ascentF. Luchsinger & A. Zimmerli, 1968-07-04.
        • Tomé pp.168#2
        Urus Este-9.3548-77.43585420
        Located to SW of Tocllaraju. Este is one of the most commonly climbed peaks in Cordillera Blanca.
        1957-07-18
        Urus Este, SE slopes to east ridge,
        First ascent        		SE slopes to east ridge: V. Day, E. Henastoza, A. Jamanca, T. McCormack & A. Morales
        1994-07-07
        Urus Este, Glaciar Sur,
        First ascent        		Glaciar Sur: D. Gómez & D. Mascarelli
        1998-09-10
        Urus Este, Cara Sur,
        First ascent        		Cara Sur: N. Campitelli & M. Santoano
        2004-01-01
        Urus Este, South ridge,
        First ascent        		South ridge: Smith Curry & Jason Foote
        South face
        Cara Sur. TD-; 1 day. 1998-09-10First ascentN. Campitelli & M. Santoano, 1998-09-10.
        • Tomé pp.169#1
        • Sharman pp.76
        South ridge. nccs IV M4 80; 70°. 2004-01-01First ascentSmith Curry & Jason Foote, 2004.
        Glaciar Sur. AD+; 50-60°; 1 day. 1994-07-07First ascentD. Gómez & D. Mascarelli, 1994-07-07.
        Shorter and more direct route than normal route (SE slopes to east ridge) climbing the small glacier below steep rock face, then joins east ridge at about mid height. It is also possible to climb immediately left of the rocky spur on the RHS of the glacier.
        • Tomé pp.169#2
        • Sharman pp.76
        SE slopes to east ridge (lado SE y arista NE). Snow, III PD-/nccs III 45-50°; 45-50°; 1040m, 5-6h from BC. 1957-07-18First ascentV. Day, E. Henastoza, A. Jamanca, T. McCormack & A. Morales, 1957-07-18.
        Normal route, classic. Highly frequented route. Climbs to col between Urus Este and sharp rock peak on the east ridge immediately left of the peak, then follows East ridge to the summit.
        NW Ridge
        NW Ridge (Arista NO). nccs III 45°/PD-; 700/1130m.
        • Sharman pp.76
        El Caballo-9.3508-77.44355300
        West side
        Rampas O. F; 1 day.

        Tocllaraju

        Tocllaraju (Tuqllarahu)-9.347448-77.3968065980

        Ice fluted pyramid located at the end of Ishinca valley in the central Cordillera Blanca. The peak has four main ridges: NW ridge towards Akillpo, NE ridge towards Mina Arequipa, East ridge and South ridge with Tocllaraju Sur (5670m) from Tocllaraju-Palcaraju Oeste col. Almost solely climbed from the west side facing Quebrada Ishinca (high camp at 5200m). NW ridge is one of the most popular climbs on 6000m peaks of Cordillera Blanca (2 days from Ishinca BC). More difficult West face also sees frequent traffic. No recorded routes from the east side.

        1900-01-01
        Tocllaraju, ,
        Event        		 L. Ortenburger & K, Ross Daniel Bach, Albert Bezinge, Jean-Jacques Fatton & Carlo Jaquet
        1939-07-31
        Tocllaraju, NW Ridge,
        First ascent        		NW Ridge: Brecht & Schweizer
        1980-05-01
        Tocllaraju, WSW Face,
        First ascent        		WSW Face: A. Fisher, B. White, R. Blatherwick & H. Colonia
        1980-07-15
        Tocllaraju, West Face Direct,
        First ascent        		West Face Direct: G. Calcagno, M. Carara, G. Lafranconi & C. Zappelli
        2000-07-25
        Tocllaraju, Ratz Fatz,
        First ascent        		Ratz Fatz: Eduardo Mondragón & Martin Waldhoer
        • Radehose pp.106
        • Kiendler pp.70-4
        AD.
        NE Ridge (Arista Norte)
        NE Ridge. D+; 70°. 1959-06-30First ascentL. Ortenburger & K, Ross, 1959-06-30.1963-01-01First ascentDaniel Bach, Albert Bezinge, Jean-Jacques Fatton & Carlo Jaquet, 1963.
        From Quebrada Ishinca (5200m) traverse under W(SW) face to gain the ridge. Summit mushroom is steep (70°).
        NW Ridge (Arista NO)
        NW Ridge (Arista NO). Snow/ice, III AD+/D/nccs III 50-55°; 50-55° (100m, rimaye wall 60-70°)°; 1032m, 5-7h. 2 days round trip from BC. 1939-07-31First ascentBrecht & Schweizer, 1939-07-31.
        Normal route, classic. Classic snow climb from Ishinca BC, high camp at 5200m. Getting to the ridge at the start of the route varies. Gaining it from the glacier basin below West face is shorter but may be difficult and/or dangerous due to seracs.
        • Johnson pp.150-1
        • Tomé pp.170#2
        • Kiendler #B15
        • Sharman pp.77
        West face
        Frames by NW and south ridges, By far the most often climbed aspect of the peak.
        WSW Face (Cara Oeste, Arista Sur). D-; 65°; 500m, 6h. 1980-05-01First ascentA. Fisher, B. White, R. Blatherwick & H. Colonia, 1980-05.
        Comparable in difficulty to Ferrari route on Alpamayo but not plaqued by the crowds. Climbed from Ishinca Camp, high camp at 5200m.
        West Face Direct (Cara Oeste directa). IV D+/nccs V; AI3/70°; 600m/1100m. 1980-07-15First ascentG. Calcagno, M. Carara, G. Lafranconi & C. Zappelli, 1980-07-15.
        Classic. Normally steep ice climbing through a serac barrier. Climbed from Ishinca Camp (5200m).
        Tocllaraju Sur, West face
        Ratz Fatz. TD-; 75°. 2000-07-25First ascentEduardo Mondragón & Martin Waldhoer, 2000-07-25.

        Akillpo

        Akilpo (Akillpo, Aquilpo)-9.3241-77.41605560
        • Akilpo Norte (5560m-9.3241-77.4160)
        • Akilpo Sur (5520m)
        1963-07-14
        Akilpo, Arista SE,
        First ascent        		Arista SE: J. Fullop, S. Turner & R. Watne
        1965-07-28
        Akilpo, Arista NE,
        First ascent        		Arista NE: J. Graafland & F. Kleine
        1968-07-12
        Akilpo, Cara este,
        First ascent        		Cara este: S. Matsushima, K. Yamaguchi & Y. Yoda
        Sur, East side
        Arista SE. F; 1 day. 1963-07-14First ascentJ. Fullop, S. Turner & R. Watne, 1963-07-14.
        Arista NE. F; 1 day. 1965-07-28First ascentJ. Graafland & F. Kleine, 1965-07-28.
        • Sharman pp.76
        • Tome pp.167.2
        Norte, East side
        Cara este. F; 1 day. 1968-07-12First ascentS. Matsushima, K. Yamaguchi & Y. Yoda, 1968-07-12.

        Chinchey group

        Palcaraju

        Palcaraju Centro (Pallqarahu, Cuchilla)-9.3619-77.36826200
        1939-06-07
        Palcaraju Centro, North Face & NE Ridge,
        First ascent        		North Face & NE Ridge: W. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer
        1964-07-10
        Palcaraju Centro, Cara NO,
        First ascent        		Cara NO: H. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost, H. Hultgren, H. Kendall, J. Kendall, J. Ortenburg & L. Ortenburg
        1965-08-03
        Palcaraju Centro, SW Face,
        First ascent        		SW Face: K. Baker, G. Holdwoth, L. Irwin & J. Ricker
        1977-07-20
        Palcaraju Centro, SE Ridge,
        First ascent        		SE Ridge: N. Jaeger
        1980-07-17
        Palcaraju Centro, South face,
        First ascent        		South face: Y-C. Sonnenwil, P. Morand & E. Loretan
        1987-06-30
        Palcaraju Centro, West Ridge,
        First ascent        		West Ridge: P. Poljanec & Zarko Trusnovec
        AD.
        North side
        Cara NO. D+. 1964-07-10First ascentH. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost, H. Hultgren, H. Kendall, J. Kendall, J. Ortenburg & L. Ortenburg, 1964-07-10.
        North Face & NE Ridge (Cara Norte & Arista NE). D. 1939-06-07First ascentW. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer, 1939-06-07.
        • Tomé pp.173#2
        • Sharman pp.77
        SE Ridge from North
        SE Ridge. TD. 1977-07-20First ascentN. Jaeger, 1977-07-20.
        From Pucaranra-Palcaraju col via Palcaraju Sur to main summit.
        South face (Cara Sur)
        South face (Cara Sur & Arista SE). TD+; 60-80°. 1980-07-17First ascentY-C. Sonnenwil, P. Morand & E. Loretan, 1980-07-17.
        Access from Quebrada Cojup.
        SW side
        SW Face (Cara SO). D. 1965-08-03First ascentK. Baker, G. Holdwoth, L. Irwin & J. Ricker, 1965-08-03.
        West Ridge. ED; 70-75°. 1987-06-30First ascentP. Poljanec & Zarko Trusnovec, 1987-06-30.
        Palcaraju Oeste-9.3704-77.38376110
        1999-01-01
        Palcaraju Oeste, Tempête de Joie,
        First ascent        		Tempête de Joie: Frédéric Bréhédon & Benoît Peyronnard
        2012-01-01
        Palcaraju Oeste, Horne-Weiss Memorial route,
        First ascent        		Horne-Weiss Memorial route: Gil Weiss & Ben Horne
        West side
        West face of Palcaraju Oeste framed with NW Ridge from col between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju Oeste and SW ridge from col between Ishinca and Palcaraju Oeste marks the end of Quebrada Ishinca.
        SW Ridge. AD+; 2 days.
        • Sharman pp.77
        • Tome pp.173.1
        South side
        Tempête de Joie. TD/TD+; 600m, 12 pitches. 1999-01-01First ascentFrédéric Bréhédon & Benoît Peyronnard, 1999.
        Horne-Weiss Memorial route. 800m. 2012-01-01First ascentGil Weiss & Ben Horne, 2012.
        First ascent party died during the descend on West ridge.
        Palcaraju Sur-9.3728-77.36965900
        1977-07-20
        Palcaraju Sur, Arista Sur,
        First ascent        		Arista Sur: N. Jaeger
        1996-07-08
        Palcaraju Sur, Un rayo de Sol,
        First ascent        		Un rayo de Sol: P.P. Gonzáles & J.M. Polanco
        Arista Sur
        Arista Sur. TD; IV. 1977-07-20First ascentN. Jaeger, 1977-07-20.
        Cara Sur
        Un rayo de Sol (Cara Sur). ED1; 90°, V+,A0; 800m. 1996-07-08First ascentP.P. Gonzáles & J.M. Polanco, 1996-07-08.

        Chinchey

        Chinchey-9.3813-77.33066222
        1939-08-02
        Chinchey, West Face to North ridge,
        First ascent        		West Face to North ridge: W. Brecht & H. Schweizer
        1958-08-17
        Chinchey, Arista O,
        First ascent        		Arista O: M. Emslies, M. Simpson & W. Wallace
        1973-07-08
        Chinchey, Vertiente E, Arista N,
        First ascent        		Vertiente E, Arista N: J. Chandler, R. Ridgeway, H. Eldridge & E. Fisger
        1975-06-26
        Chinchey, Cara O,
        First ascent        		Cara O: R. Boyd, B. Wagstaff, K. Gerdes & P. Tamm
        1977-07-15
        Chinchey, Cara NO,
        First ascent        		Cara NO: C. Stark, P. Weidman & A. Webster
        North side
        West Face to North ridge (Arista Norte). PD+/AD-; 55°; 3-4 day roundtrip from meadow camp. 1939-08-02First ascentW. Brecht & H. Schweizer, 1939-08-02.
        High camp in Chinchey-Pucaranra col (5550m).
        • Johnson pp.184-5
        • Tomé pp.181#1
        • Kiendler #B17
        • Sharman pp.71
        Cara NO. 1977-07-15First ascentC. Stark, P. Weidman & A. Webster, 1977-07-15.
        • Tomé pp.181#2
        East side
        Vertiente E, Arista N. D+; 3 days. 1973-07-08First ascentJ. Chandler, R. Ridgeway, H. Eldridge & E. Fisger, 1973-07-08.
        West side
        Arista O. D+. 1958-08-17First ascentM. Emslies, M. Simpson & W. Wallace, 1958-08-17.
        • Tomé pp.181#3
        Cara O. D+. 1975-06-26First ascentR. Boyd, B. Wagstaff, K. Gerdes & P. Tamm, 1975-06-26.
        Pucaranra-9.3888-77.35076156
        Bulky mountain at the head of Quebrada Cojup.
        1948-07-05
        Pucaranra, SE Ridge,
        First ascent        		SE Ridge: L. Lauterburg, F. Marmillod, R. Schmid & F. Sigrist
        1959-07-17
        Pucaranra, NNE ridge,
        First ascent        		NNE ridge: L. Ortenburger & K. Ross
        1959-07-23
        Pucaranra, SE Face,
        First ascent        		SE Face: C. Kogan, V. Morenao, A. Lambert, Y. Lambert & C. van der Stratten
        1965-08-17
        Pucaranra, SW Ridge,
        First ascent        		SW Ridge: K. Baker & G. Holdsworth
        1975-07-04
        Pucaranra, West Face,
        First ascent        		West Face: M. Cohen & T. Parlane
        1977-06-19
        Pucaranra, NW Ridge,
        First ascent        		NW Ridge: Nicolas Jaeger
        • Kiendler pp.79
        NE side
        NNE ridge (Arista E-NE). D-; 2-3 days. 1959-07-17First ascentL. Ortenburger & K. Ross, 1959-07-17.
        SE ridge
        SE Ridge (Arista SE). AD+; 50°; 10h from the high camp. 1948-07-05First ascentL. Lauterburg, F. Marmillod, R. Schmid & F. Sigrist, 1948-07-05.
        • Tomé pp.176#3
        • Kiendler #B19
        • Sharman pp.78
        • Biggar pp.83
        SE face
        SE Face (Cara SE). AD+; 50-55°; 2 days. 1959-07-23First ascentC. Kogan, V. Morenao, A. Lambert, Y. Lambert & C. van der Stratten, 1959-07-23.
        • Tomé pp.177#4
        • Sharman pp.78
        • Biggar pp.83
        SW ridge
        SW Ridge (Arista SO). D-. 1965-08-17First ascentK. Baker & G. Holdsworth, 1965-08-17.
        West side
        NW Ridge. TD; 70°. 1977-06-19First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1977-06-19.
        West Face (Cara Oeste). D+; 70°. 1975-07-04First ascentM. Cohen & T. Parlane, 1975-07-04.
        Puntancueno (Chinchey Este)-9.3787-77.32186000
        1982-08-21
        Puntancueno, Cara E, arista NE,
        First ascent        		Cara E, arista NE: A. Tordoya & A: Ortega
        East side
        Cara E, arista NE. D+; 3 days. 1982-08-21First ascentA. Tordoya & A: Ortega, 1982-08-21.
        Pamparaju (Chinchey Norte I)-9.3644-77.33255987
        1967-06-20
        Pamparaju, Arista N,
        First ascent        		Arista N: R. Kirch, A. Landa, F. Lusarreta & A. Rosen
        South side
        Arista N. AD+; 2-3 days. 1967-06-20First ascentR. Kirch, A. Landa, F. Lusarreta & A. Rosen, 1967-06-20.
        Tullparaju-9.4029-77.31585787
        • Tullparaju (5787m-9.4029-77.3158)
        • Tullparaju Sur (Gallohuaganan) (5456m)
        The highest of Huandoy peaks and the highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca (together with Huantsan) after two Huascaráns. Mostly climbed from the east side starting from Refugio Peru (hut at 4600m). South Face is 1000m wall of rock and ice. Also possible from laguna Paron (north side, much longer and very difficult). Three main summits can be climbed from a high camp on Huandoy Plateau (5800m).
        1932-01-01
        Tullparaju, South slopes,
        First ascent        		South slopes: E. Hein & E. Schneider
        1958-07-03
        Tullparaju, Arista N-NO,
        First ascent        		Arista N-NO: G. Dionisi, P. Fornelli, L. Ghigo & G. Marchese
        1959-07-10
        Tullparaju, Cara O-NO,
        First ascent        		Cara O-NO: R. Schatz & E. Reiss
        1962-07-24
        Tullparaju, Arista O,
        First ascent        		Arista O: D. Bernays, L. Patterson & Y. Sawyer
        1971-07-18
        Tullparaju, NW face,
        First ascent        		NW face: J. Glidden, B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger
        1974-07-28
        Tullparaju, NE face,
        First ascent        		NE face: G. de Naurois & M. Parmentier
        1976-08-18
        Tullparaju, East Face,
        First ascent        		East Face: J. Stryczynski & W. Waligora
        1987-07-02
        Tullparaju, Cara N,
        First ascent        		Cara N: D. Tic & M. Romih
        • Biggar 2005 pp.69-71
        • Kiendler pp.56-9
        • Sharman pp.72
        North face
        Cara N. ED4/EX-/nccs VI-; VI-VII; 1450m, 5 days. 1987-07-02First ascentD. Tic & M. Romih, 1987-07-02.
        East face
        East side climbs on Huandoy Norte are accessed from Refugio Peru by following Pisco normal route (SW ridge) to Pisco moraine camp, then steering left to the glacier. usual camp site is below the north face at ~5200m (3-4h from Pisco moraine camp, quite possible from Refugio Peru in a day). The face is 100m high and objectively relatively safe. Easier proportion is to climb to glacier plateau at 5800m between Sut, Oeste and Norte (camp) and climb thee peak from there via col 6150m between Oeste and Norte. This is also viable descent alternative to rappelling the route (6-8h from plateau camp to Pisco moraine camp).
        NE face (North-North-East Ridge). D+; 45-70°, III; 1200m from the bottom of the couloir. 1-2 days. 1974-07-28First ascentG. de Naurois & M. Parmentier, 1974-07-28.
        Normal route. Easiest route. From the camp on glacier at 5200m. At first 400m couloir to the col (5850m) on the ridge that separates Huandoy Norte from Huandoy Este (mostly 50° last 100m 70°; 3-5h, possible camp). The ridge itself is 50-55° snow/ice for 500m capped with final rock barrier (10m of uiaa III).
        East Face (Cara Este, Ruta Polaca). D+/TD-; 55-80° (mixed, last 3 pitches)°, IV-; 1100m (face), 1500m, 2-3 days round trip from moraine camp. 1976-08-18First ascentJ. Stryczynski & W. Waligora, 1976-08-18.
        Moderately difficult mixed climb.
        East Icefall. AD+; 45°; 2-3 days.
        Normal route. From the camp below east face along 45-degree snow to Huandoy Plateau (5800m) above the icefall (camp, 5-6h from glacier camp). From there to col 6150m between Huandoy Oeste and Norte (2-3h, 45 degree). Up until this point the route is identical to normal route of Huandoy Oeste (East slope & NE ridge).
        South slopes (Pendientes Sur). AD+/D-; 35-45°, III - IV. 1932-01-01First ascentE. Hein & E. Schneider, 1932.
        Moderately steep glacier climb, with some technical challenges in the approach. Severe stone fall danger.
        NW side
        NW face of Huandoy Norte is mostly ice face with rock on the upper part of the face. Vague rocky spur splits the face into WNW and NW faces.
        NW face. Snow/ice, D+; 45-55°, IV+ (mixed, several pitches); 800m, 10-12h. 1971-07-18First ascentJ. Glidden, B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger, 1971-07-18.
        Direct ascent, primarily on snow and ice, with a rock band guarding the top.
        Cara O-NO. D+; 900m, 2/3d. 1959-07-10First ascentR. Schatz & E. Reiss, 1959-07-10.
        East side
        Arista O. D; 45/70°, III; 2 days. 1962-07-24First ascentD. Bernays, L. Patterson & Y. Sawyer, 1962-07-24.
        Sur, NNW ridge
        Arista N-NO. AD; 2 days. 1958-07-03First ascentG. Dionisi, P. Fornelli, L. Ghigo & G. Marchese, 1958-07-03.
        • Tomé pp.182#1
        Ayucaraju (Chinchey Norte II)-9.3566-77.33325647
        1967-06-30
        Ayucaraju, Arista N,
        First ascent        		Arista N: J. Feliu, R. Kirch, J. Lorente, F. Lusarreta & L. Sáez Olazagoitia
        North side
        Arista N. AD; 1 day. 1967-06-30First ascentJ. Feliu, R. Kirch, J. Lorente, F. Lusarreta & L. Sáez Olazagoitia, 1967-06-30.
        Utsuraju (Chinchey Norte III)5500
        1967-06-17
        Utsuraju, SW face,
        First ascent        		SW face: J. Feliu, F. Lusarreta & L. Sáez Olazagoitia
        SW face
        SW face. AD; 1 day. 1967-06-17First ascentJ. Feliu, F. Lusarreta & L. Sáez Olazagoitia, 1967-06-17.

        Cayesh

        Cayesh-9.4397-77.30165721
        Difficult peak with no easy routes to the summit. West face has several steep routes.
        1900-01-01
        Cayesh, ,
        Event        		 Allan & Dawson Hapala & Husicka
        1960-01-01
        Cayesh, South ridge,
        First ascent        		South ridge: Crawford, Ryan & Stewart
        1986-07-01
        Cayesh, British,
        First ascent        		British: Jerry Gore & Terry Moore
        1988-07-01
        Cayesh, American,
        First ascent        		American: Arnow & Fowler
        1988-07-04
        Cayesh, German route,
        First ascent        		German route: M. Roeper & J. Steinsberger
        2005-06-08
        Cayesh, Idiomas mixtos,
        First ascent        		Idiomas mixtos: Marko Prezelj & Steve House
        2016-01-01
        Cayesh, Chilean Route,
        First ascent        		Chilean Route: Jimmy Mora, Francisco Rojas
        East face
        American. ED; 1000m, 3+ days.
        • Tome pp.184-5
        Slovenian. ED; 1000m, 3+ days.
        • Tome pp.184-5
        West face (Cara Oeste)
        Several routes, all of them difficult (TD+ or more), approximately 650m in height and tend to be serious.
        British. TD+; V+,A2, 85°; 400m. 1986-07-01First ascentJerry Gore & Terry Moore, 1986-07.
        American. TD+; IV-V, 80°; 400m. 1988-07-01First ascentArnow & Fowler, 1988-07.
        Idiomas mixtos (American-Slovenian Direct). ED+; M7+, 6a+; 700m, 11 pitch. 2005-06-08First ascentMarko Prezelj & Steve House, 2005-06-08.
        • Cayesh. Our next destination was the west face of Cayesh. On June 8 we started from the tent a bit before first light and in sixteen and half hours opened a new line between the German and Charlie Fowler routes. By Marko Prezelj at Alpinist on 2005-12-01.
        • Topo of the route on Cayesh
        • Cayesh: The Calling. Cayesh is remarkable for its stunning symmetry, needle-point summit, and mixed rock and ice terrain. We started up our route after an afternoon of reconnaissance with child-like joy, climbing impetuously, spontaneously. We took along the video camera on a whim, and viewing the resulting film, Cayesh: The Calling, re-focuses those memories of being wrapped up in the shared joy of discovering new pitch after new pitch, each one unfolding naturally. By Steve House at The Cleanest Line.
        Czech. TD+; V; 400m. 1986-06-01First ascentHapala & Husicka, 1986-06.
        German route (Ruta Alemana). TD+; VI-, 70°; 700m, 2 day roundtrip from glacier camp. 1988-07-04First ascentM. Roeper & J. Steinsberger, 1988-07-04.
        Most climbed route on the face. Variations established in the upper section.
        South ridge (New Zealand route, Ruta Neozelandesa). TD+/ED; 450m. 1960-01-01First ascentCrawford, Ryan & Stewart, 1960.
        Chilean Route. TD+; WI5 M6/70°; 16pitches. 2016-01-01First ascentJimmy Mora, Francisco Rojas, 2016.
        Maparaju-9.462185-77.3082165326
        Popular acclimatization peak.
        1960-07-16
        Maparaju, SW and W slopes,
        First ascent        		SW and W slopes: J. de Paz & L. Stewart
        East face
        Cara este. AD; 1 day.
        West side
        SW and W slopes (Arista SO). III F; 45°; 1000m. 1960-07-16First ascentJ. de Paz & L. Stewart, 1960-07-16.
        • Johnson pp.188-9
        • NZ Alpine Journal 1961
        • Tomé pp.189#1
        • Sharman pp.75
        Milpocraju-9.4500-77.30375300
        West side
        SSW Spur. D+; 1d.
        • Sharman pp.75
        Cara Oeste. TD-; 1 day.
        • Tome pp.188.1
        • Sharman pp.75
        Espol O-NO. 1 day.
        • Tome pp.188.3
        • Sharman pp.75
        SE side
        Arista SE. D; 1-2 days.

        Chopiraju

        Chopiraju Central-9.4311-77.32645518
        1958-01-01
        Chopiraju Central, West ridge,
        First ascent        		West ridge: Italian party
        2005-07-27
        Chopiraju Central, Fight Club,
        First ascent        		Fight Club: Tobi Lochbuhler & Moritz Walde
        South face
        Fight Club. WI4 M5/85°; 1 day. 2005-07-27First ascentTobi Lochbuhler & Moritz Walde, 2005-07-27.
        West side
        West ridge. F; 1 day. 1958-01-01First ascentItalian party, 1958.
        • Tomé pp.184
        Chopiraju Oeste-9.4316-77.33165475
        West side
        Arista Oeste. F; 1 day.
        • Tomé pp.184
        Chopiraju Este-9.4279-77.32185446
        West side
        NW side. F; 1 day.
        • Tomé pp.184

        Ranrapalca group

        Ranrapalca

        Ranrapalca-9.4096-77.41706162
        • Ranrapalca (6162m-9.4096-77.4170)
        • Ranrapalca SO (6001m)

        One of the big peaks of Cordillera Blanca and one of the big draws of quebrada Ishinca. All routes are reportedly worthwhile. Relatively often climbed considering that there are no non-technical routes (easiest route is NE face at D).

        Despite the lack of sharp summit, Ranrapalca is majestic mountain rising steeply from each side. The peak has four main faces and ridges. NE ridge rises from Ishinca-Ranrapalca co, East ridge from near laguna Perolcocha, long and aesthetic S(W) ridge separates quebradas Cojup and Llaca and west ridge joins Ranrapala with Ochsalpalca. North and NE faces are accessible from quebrada Ishinca /the latter also from qeubrada Cojup), (South-) East face from Quebrada Cojup and SW face from quebrada Llaca.

        The peak is most often climbed from Ishinca side either via NE face or North face. Routes from quebarada Cojup (SE side) and quebrada Llaca (SW side) are more difficult and see far fewer ascents.

        • Topo on NE and N aspects of Ranrapalca. Base photo taken from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-03 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          Topo on NE and N aspects of Ranrapalca. Base photo taken from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-03 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
        • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
        • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
        • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
        • Taken from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          Taken from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in quebrada Ishinca, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
        1939-06-25
        Ranrapalca, NE Ridge,
        First ascent        		NE Ridge: W. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer
        1958-07-23
        Ranrapalca, NE Face,
        First ascent        		NE Face: G. Dionini, P. Fornelli, L Ghico & G. Marchese
        1971-07-07
        Ranrapalca, SW Ridge,
        First ascent        		SW Ridge: T. Aas, B. Hammeraas, E. Boehlme, K. Bjerge, M. Ekilsen, V. Geir-Hansen & P. Gren
        1975-08-22
        Ranrapalca, North Face,
        First ascent        		North Face: M. Johns, C. Slaymaker & M. Rourke
        1977-06-13
        Ranrapalca, South face,
        First ascent        		South face: Nicolas Jaeger
        1977-06-18
        Ranrapalca, East Ridge,
        First ascent        		East Ridge: R. Ghillini, B. Prud'homme & J. Bouchard
        1980-06-22
        Ranrapalca, West Ridge,
        First ascent        		West Ridge: Y-C. Sonnerwyl, P. Maron & E. Loretan
        1994-07-30
        Ranrapalca, North Spur,
        First ascent        		North Spur: Joe Simpson & Rick Potter
        1996-07-25
        Ranrapalca, Slovenian,
        First ascent        		Slovenian: Andres Markovic & Zorko Mates
        1997-07-16
        Ranrapalca, Scandinavian Direct,
        First ascent        		Scandinavian Direct: Sveinung Skoglund & Allan Christensen
        1997-08-02
        Ranrapalca, Peruvian/North-American,
        First ascent        		Peruvian/North-American: Eduardo Angulo, Guillermo Mejmia & Patrick Knoll
        2009-08-28
        Ranrapalca, La Paliza del Ranrapalca,
        First ascent        		La Paliza del Ranrapalca: Eloy Salazar Obregón, Octavio Salazar Obregón & Eric Albino
        2013-06-01
        Ranrapalca, Learning of our Weaknesses,
        First ascent        		Learning of our Weaknesses: Carlos Pineda & Carlos Solé
        • Kiendler pp.80-2
        North Face (Cara Norte)
        Peruvian/North-American. TD+; A2. 1997-08-02First ascentEduardo Angulo, Guillermo Mejmia & Patrick Knoll, 1997-08-02.
        • Tome pp.197#9
        Scandinavian Direct. TD/TD+/nccs V 60º 5.8; 75/90°, 5.8. 1997-07-16First ascentSveinung Skoglund & Allan Christensen, 1997-07-16.
        • Tome pp.197#8
        Slovenian. 75. 1996-07-25First ascentAndres Markovic & Zorko Mates, 1996-07-25.
        North Face (Cara Norte). Mixed, D+; 55-60°, III; 900m, 8-10h from the camp below the face. 1975-08-22First ascentM. Johns, C. Slaymaker & M. Rourke, 1975-08-22.
        Classic. Looks much more difficult than it really is. Long face with lots of moderately steep snow & ice with short rock band at the top (10m of UIAA III).
        • Photo with route line
        North Spur. TD; 1000m, 8h. 1994-07-30First ascentJoe Simpson & Rick Potter, 1994-07-30.
        Prominent rocky spur between NE and North faces.
        Learning of our Weaknesses. Mixed, ED; 1000m. 2013-06-01First ascentCarlos Pineda & Carlos Solé, 2013-06.
        Between NE Ridge and North Spur from the highest point of glacier.
        NE Face
        Easiest route to climb Ranrapalca, separated from north face by NE ridge, which is somewhat more difficult than NE face (mixed).
        NE Ridge (Arista NE). Mixed, D/TD/nccs V; 8h. 1939-06-25First ascentW. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer, 1939-06-25.
        • Biggar 2005 pp82-83
        • Tomé pp.195#4
        • Kiendler #B20
        • Sharman pp.82#3
        NE Face (Pendientes NE). Mixed, D; 55°, IV/5.5; 862m, 5-7h. 1958-07-23First ascentG. Dionini, P. Fornelli, L Ghico & G. Marchese, 1958-07-23.
        Normal route, classic. Easiest route and likely the best descend.
        • Johnson pp.160-1
        • Biggar 2005 pp82-83
        • Tomé pp.195#3
        • Kiendler #B20
        • Sharman pp.82#4
        SE side
        The south face of Ranrapalca (6162m) is ca 6km wide, with rock, ice, and snow rising for 750–850m.
        East Ridge (SE Ridge, Arista Este). TD+; 65-70°; 800m, 2 days. 1977-06-18First ascentR. Ghillini, B. Prud'homme & J. Bouchard, 1977-06-18.
        South face (Cara Sur). TD; 750m. 1977-06-13First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1977-06-13.
        La Paliza del Ranrapalca. ED; 50–90/95°; 850m. 2009-08-28First ascentEloy Salazar Obregón, Octavio Salazar Obregón & Eric Albino, 2009-08-28.
        SW side
        SW Ridge (Arista SO). TD; 1000m, 2 days. 1971-07-07First ascentT. Aas, B. Hammeraas, E. Boehlme, K. Bjerge, M. Ekilsen, V. Geir-Hansen & P. Gren, 1971-07-07.
        Beautiful snow ridge easily visible from Huaraz. The ridge is gained at 5350m via SW face, then followed via SW summit (6001m) to main summit.
        SW Face. ED; 1000m.
        • Tomé pp.198#11, 1988#12
        • Sharman pp.83#2
        West Ridge
        West Ridge. TD; 2-3 days. 1980-06-22First ascentY-C. Sonnerwyl, P. Maron & E. Loretan, 1980-06-22.
        Via col between Ochsapalca and Ranrapalca.
        Ishinca-9.39267-77.4064195530
        Popular acclimatization peak. Located in a nest between Palcaraju and Ranrapalca. There are only few routes (Tome guidebook lists three), all of them non-technical (F-PD).
        1954-05-12
        Ishinca, SW Ridge,
        First ascent        		SW Ridge: B. Baltazar, C. Fernandez, C. Morales, M. Romero & F. Suazo
        1964-01-01
        Ishinca, NW Slopes,
        First ascent        		NW Slopes: J. Fonrouge, W. Lindaver, M. Salger, H. Schmidbauer & V. Staudacher
        1965-06-23
        Ishinca, NE Ridge,
        First ascent        		NE Ridge: W. Basset, J. Hough, C. Satterfield & S. Turner
        2003-01-01
        Ishinca, Cosley-Houston,
        First ascent        		Cosley-Houston: Kathy Cosley, Mark Houston
        2009-05-26
        Ishinca, Celjska Smer,
        First ascent        		Celjska Smer: Jernej Gracner, Uros Gracner
        2013-01-01
        Ishinca, Carlito’s Way,
        First ascent        		Carlito’s Way: Carlos Esteban Pineda Beyer, Carlos Solé
        • Kiendler pp.77-8
        NE Ridge
        NE Ridge. PD-; 1 day. 1965-06-23First ascentW. Basset, J. Hough, C. Satterfield & S. Turner, 1965-06-23.
        From col between Ishinca and Palcaraju Oeste.
        SW side
        SW Ridge (Ruta SO). Mixed/snow, PD-; 60°; 1130m, 6-8h. 1954-05-12First ascentB. Baltazar, C. Fernandez, C. Morales, M. Romero & F. Suazo, 1954-05-12.
        Normal route, classic. From Ishinca BC via laguna Ishinca (camp). Possible high camp in Ishinca-Ranrapalca col (5400m). The crevasse located very close to the summit presents very distinct crux.
        • Johnson pp.158-9
        • Tomé pp.192#2
        • Kiendler #B18
        • Sharman pp.81
        NW side
        NW face is framed with NW slopes normal route in the left and SW ridge in the right. Steeper lines through the face can be good options for those seeking for moderately long more technical climbs from the valley.
        NW Slopes (Pendientes del NO). Snow, PD-/nccs III 45°; 700/1130m, 5-6h. 1964-01-01First ascentJ. Fonrouge, W. Lindaver, M. Salger, H. Schmidbauer & V. Staudacher, 1964.
        Normal route, classic. From Ishinca BC via laguna Ishinca.
        Celjska Smer. D-; 40-60°; 550m. 2009-05-26First ascentJernej Gracner, Uros Gracner, 2009-05-26.
        Carlito’s Way. D+; M5/60-80°; 480m. 2013-01-01First ascentCarlos Esteban Pineda Beyer, Carlos Solé, 2013.
        Cosley-Houston. 2003-01-01First ascentKathy Cosley, Mark Houston, 2003.
        climbs a prominent snow and rock ramp on the right side of the rock band.

        Ochsalpalca

        Ochsalpalca
        Ochsapalca-9.408335-77.4349155881
        • Main summit (5881m-9.408335-77.434915)
        • West summit
        Fantastic steep climbing on the several lines on the south face.
        1965-07-10
        Ochsapalca, North Ridge,
        First ascent        		North Ridge: A. Miyashita & T. Sato
        1979-08-09
        Ochsapalca, American Direct,
        First ascent        		American Direct: M. Richey & R. Blatherwick
        1982-06-12
        Ochsapalca, Swiss-Canadian,
        First ascent        		Swiss-Canadian: V. Baderet, J. Oullet & B. Balmat
        1982-06-20
        Ochsapalca, Grassi,
        First ascent        		Grassi: B. Francou, J-M. Cambon & G. Grassi
        1997-01-01
        Ochsapalca, Alchimia,
        First ascent        		Alchimia: N. Campitelli, M. Frishknect & B. Fiorenza
        2004-01-01
        Ochsapalca, NW face,
        First ascent        		NW face: David Bruder & Andrés Zeger
        North side
        North Ridge (Arista N). D+; 700m, 5h from the high camp. 1965-07-10First ascentA. Miyashita & T. Sato, 1965-07-10.
        Normal route. Gain the ridge at 5100m. Camp at 5500m.
        NW face. TD-; 90°; 350m, 10 pitches. 2004-01-01First ascentDavid Bruder & Andrés Zeger, 2004.
        South face (Cara Sur)
        Several modern steep ice routes between TD and ED+ and 500-650m. Many climbers abseil down after reaching the summit ridge instead of traversing the difficult ridge to main summit.
        • MI 1999-07 (pp.45)
        Intsumisioa. Ice, IV ED; 500m.
        Gato Blanco. Ice, IV ED; 500m.
        French '95. Ice, IV ED; WI4.
        Rusula de Yungay. Ice, IV ED; 600m.
        • Tomé pp.200#5
        Swiss-Canadian (Suizo-Canadiense). Ice, IV TD; 600m. 1982-06-12First ascentV. Baderet, J. Oullet & B. Balmat, 1982-06-12.
        The easiest route on the face.
        Alchimia. Ice, IV TD+; 600m. 1997-01-01First ascentN. Campitelli, M. Frishknect & B. Fiorenza, 1997.
        • Tomé pp.201#7
        American Direct (Americana). Ice, IV ED; 650m, 8-10h. 1979-08-09First ascentM. Richey & R. Blatherwick, 1979-08-09.
        Peruvian. Ice,
        Grassi. Ice, IV ED; 650m. 1982-06-20First ascentB. Francou, J-M. Cambon & G. Grassi, 1982-06-20.
        Yangyaraju
        Yangyaraju I (Jangyaraju I, Yangyaraju Este)5675
        1963-08-01
        Yangyaraju I, Arista NO,
        First ascent        		Arista NO: S. Colbeck, D. Ewers & I. Jirak
        1975-08-01
        Yangyaraju I, Arista SO,
        First ascent        		Arista SO: D. Ciochetti & C. Slaymaker
        2003-10-20
        Yangyaraju I, Libre,
        First ascent        		Libre: Aritza Monasterio, Peter Alvarado, Darwin Jamamca
        2015-05-25
        Yangyaraju I, Libre,
        First ascent        		Libre: Odei Girado & Kepa Berasategi
        NE side
        Libre. TD+; 6a,A2, M5/60°; 5600m. 2015-05-25First ascentOdei Girado & Kepa Berasategi, 2015-05-25.
        South side
        Libre. TD+; 50°-65° (90)°; 5600m. 2003-10-20First ascentAritza Monasterio, Peter Alvarado, Darwin Jamamca, 2003-10-20.
        West side
        Arista SO. 1 day. 1975-08-01First ascentD. Ciochetti & C. Slaymaker, 1975-08.
        Arista NO. AD; 1 day. 1963-08-01First ascentS. Colbeck, D. Ewers & I. Jirak, 1963-08.
        From Laguna Mullaqa via SW glacier and steep SW ridge.
        Yangyaraju II (Yangyaraju Central)-9.4154-77.45225630
        1963-07-31
        Yangyaraju II, Cara SE,
        First ascent        		Cara SE: S. Colbeck, D. Ewers & K. Heathershaw
        SE side
        Cara SE. PD+; 1 day. 1963-07-31First ascentS. Colbeck, D. Ewers & K. Heathershaw, 1963-07-31.
        From SW glacier via col between Yanguraju I and II.
        Arista SE. AD; 1 day.
          Yangyaraju III (Yangyaraju Oeste)5450
          1958-07-18
          Yangyaraju III, SE face,
          First ascent          		SE face: J. Much & I. Jirak
          1974-08-01
          Yangyaraju III, NW Ridge,
          First ascent          		NW Ridge: B. Pfeiffer, J. Plimpton & J. Spezia
          1975-08-02
          Yangyaraju III, West Ridge,
          First ascent          		West Ridge: D. Ciochetti & C. Slaymaker
          West side
          NW Ridge (Arista NO). 1 day. 1974-08-01First ascentB. Pfeiffer, J. Plimpton & J. Spezia, 1974-08.
          • Sharman pp.85
          • Tome pp.203.2
          West Ridge (Arista Oeste). 1 day. 1975-08-02First ascentD. Ciochetti & C. Slaymaker, 1975-08-02.
          From SW glacier basin.
          East side
          SE face. 1 day. 1958-07-18First ascentJ. Much & I. Jirak, 1958-07-18.
          Vallunaraju
          Vallunaraju-9.42219-77.45635686
          • Vallunaraju (5686m-9.42219-77.4563)
          • Vallunaraju Sur (5600m)
          One of the most prominent looking mountains visible from Huaraz. Good acclimatization climb. Vallunaraju summits lie on a N-S ridge south from Janyaraju I. Third prominent ridge is East spur dividing east face into East and South faces. East and South faces can be accessed from quebrada Llaca, which is easily accessible from Huaraz by car.
          1949-01-01
          Vallunaraju, SW slopes,
          First ascent          		SW slopes: A. Szepessy & M. Szepessy
          1954-06-05
          Vallunaraju, North face,
          First ascent          		North face: Hugo Vargas, Antonio Ramos, Manuel Díaz & René González
          1971-07-09
          Vallunaraju, North ridge,
          First ascent          		North ridge: Lucille Ryan & Robert Ryan
          1982-06-01
          Vallunaraju, East side,
          First ascent          		East side: Gian Carlo Grassi
          1987-08-08
          Vallunaraju, SE face,
          First ascent          		SE face: Marco Schenone, Guido Ghigo & Enrico Tessera
          North face
          North face (Cara Norte). PD; 1200m, 1-2 days. 1954-06-05First ascentHugo Vargas, Antonio Ramos, Manuel Díaz & René González, 1954-06-05.
          East side
          North ridge (Arista Norte). II AD-; 550m, 2-3 day round trip from Huaraz. 1971-07-09First ascentLucille Ryan & Robert Ryan, 1971-07-09.
          Normal route, classic. From the col between Janyaraju I and Vallunaraju.
          East side (Cara Este). Rock, TD; III/IV; 400m, 4-5h. 1982-06-01First ascentGian Carlo Grassi, 1982-06.
          SE face (Cara SE). Mixed, D; 1200m. 1987-08-08First ascentMarco Schenone, Guido Ghigo & Enrico Tessera, 1987-08-08.
          South face
          Face rising to Vallunaraju Sur (5600m) immediately above guides hut by the road end.
          SW slopes (Pendientes SO). PD-; 1200m, 3-5h. 1949-01-01First ascentA. Szepessy & M. Szepessy, 1949.
          Normal route. On SW slope close to S(W) ridge.
          • Sharman pp.85
          • Tomé pp.204#3
          El Gran Momo. 70-90°, 6a,A2; 300m, 17h.

          Churup group

          Churup Oeste (Churup I)-9.469127-77.4158485493
          Peak located at the end of ridge separating Cojup and Quilcayhuanca valleys, just 20km from Huaraz and easily visible to the city. The peak is not particular per se, but it's SW face located above popular laguna Churup has several interesting climbs for those searching for reasonably technical (D+-ED) mixed routes that are not too far away from Huaraz. Doable as two days round trip from Huaraz by placing high camp by laguna Superior (3-5h from road end close to Pitec). Other aspects of the peak are far less climbed.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-03 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-03 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          1954-08-08
          Churup Oeste, Pendientes & Cara NO, Arista NE,
          First ascent          		Pendientes & Cara NO, Arista NE: A. Canaval, A. Mirro-Quesada, A. Morales, C. Morales, A. Palacios & R. Thomas
          1962-07-18
          Churup Oeste, Cara Sur,
          First ascent          		Cara Sur: M. Inokuchi & H. Yoshikawa
          1972-08-15
          Churup Oeste, SW face,
          First ascent          		SW face: R. Fear, W. Lohr, M. Malotaux & Y. Ridgeway
          1983-08-03
          Churup Oeste, Princesa Malinche,
          First ascent          		Princesa Malinche: J.A. Palacios & J.M. Lorenzo
          1994-07-27
          Churup Oeste, Cami de Sirga,
          First ascent          		Cami de Sirga: E. Ortuño & R. Gine
          1995-07-24
          Churup Oeste, Americana,
          First ascent          		Americana: A. Swenson, G. Svehn & S. Porter
          1996-07-01
          Churup Oeste, Eleven Joints,
          First ascent          		Eleven Joints: Markovic & Meglic
          1996-07-07
          Churup Oeste, Eleven Joints,
          First ascent          		Eleven Joints: A. Markovic & M. Meglic
          1997-09-05
          Churup Oeste, Hispano-Peruana,
          First ascent          		Hispano-Peruana: G. Mejía & D. Rodriquez López
          1999-07-11
          Churup Oeste, Primorska Smer,
          First ascent          		Primorska Smer: Simon Markocic, Vasja Kosuta, Borut Kolja & Matija Klanjscek
          2001-09-02
          Churup Oeste, 496 Spa-smos,
          First ascent          		496 Spa-smos: Richard Hidalgo
          2015-01-01
          Churup Oeste, La Divina Providencia,
          First ascent          		La Divina Providencia: Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
          North side
          Pendientes & Cara NO, Arista NE. D-; 1200m. 1954-08-08First ascentA. Canaval, A. Mirro-Quesada, A. Morales, C. Morales, A. Palacios & R. Thomas, 1954-08-08.
          Eleven Joints. ED3; 500m. 1996-07-01First ascentMarkovic & Meglic, 1996-07.
          Oeste, Cara Sur
          Cara Sur. D-; V; 300m, 1 day. 1962-07-18First ascentM. Inokuchi & H. Yoshikawa, 1962-07-18.
          • Tomé pp.207#7
          • Sharman pp.80
          SW face
          A face located immediately above laguna Churup. Several mixed routes of around 450m and between grades D+ - ED. Rock quality of the face is rather bad and seems to take solid pro sparsingly, at least on the lower crux pitches. There is equipped rappel line along the rocks immediately to the left of the mixed face.
          Americana. Mixed, TD; V, 90°; 450m. 1995-07-24First ascentA. Swenson, G. Svehn & S. Porter, 1995-07-24.
          • Tomé pp.207#1
          Cami de Sirga. Mixed, TD; 450m. 1994-07-27First ascentE. Ortuño & R. Gine, 1994-07-27.
          Eleven Joints. Mixed, ED; A3, 95°; 450m. 1996-07-07First ascentA. Markovic & M. Meglic, 1996-07-07.
          Hispano-Peruana. Mixed, ED; A3, 95°; 450m. 1997-09-05First ascentG. Mejía & D. Rodriquez López, 1997-09-05.
          • Tomé pp.207#4
          Princesa Malinche (SW Face, Cara SO). Mixed, IV D+; AI3+/85°, V+, one pitch, mixed; 450m, 6-8h. 1983-08-03First ascentJ.A. Palacios & J.M. Lorenzo, 1983-08-03.
          Mixed climb.
          496 Spa-smos. Mixed, V, AI4/85°; 450m. 2001-09-02First ascentRichard Hidalgo, 2001-09-02.
          Between the rappel line and Princesa Malinche.
          SW face. Mixed, 75-80°, IV+; 450m. 1972-08-15First ascentR. Fear, W. Lohr, M. Malotaux & Y. Ridgeway, 1972-08-15.
          The easiest route on the face, located at the RHS of the face, very close to the rocky spur along which goes the descent route.
          La Divina Providencia. Mixed, M7/80°; 650m. 2015-01-01First ascentTomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini, 2015.
          NW side
          Primorska Smer. V+,A0, 80°. 1999-07-11First ascentSimon Markocic, Vasja Kosuta, Borut Kolja & Matija Klanjscek, 1999-07-11.
          Churup II (Churup Norte, Churup Central)-9.4660-77.41465461
          1960-01-01
          Churup II, NW slopes,
          First ascent          		NW slopes: R. Mégard, H. Vargas & A. Soriano
          2001-08-02
          Churup II, NW arete,
          First ascent          		NW arete: Clemént Guntz
          NW arete
          NW slopes. 1960-01-01First ascentR. Mégard, H. Vargas & A. Soriano, 1960.
          • Yuraq Janka pp.108
          NW arete. AD+. 2001-08-02First ascentClemént Guntz, 2001-08-02.
          Huapi (Jatunmontepuncu, Bayo)-9.4076-77.36935415
          Easternmost peak on long ridge SW from Pucaranra. Located some 3km from Pucaranra, separated from it by Pucaranra-Jatunmontepucul col (5200m). SW ridge drops to Huapi pass. Most common ascent is SW ridge which can be gained from both sides.
          1948-07-05
          Huapi, Pendientes E & Arete Oeste,
          First ascent          		Pendientes E & Arete Oeste: A. Szepessy & M. Soni
          1957-09-27
          Huapi, Lado NO,
          First ascent          		Lado NO: S. Leppish & H. Vargas
          1965-07-05
          Huapi, Pendientes SO,
          First ascent          		Pendientes SO: L. Baker & G. Holdsworth
          1965-08-24
          Huapi, Arista NO,
          First ascent          		Arista NO: L. Irwin & J. Ricker
          West side
          Lado NO. F; 1 day. 1957-09-27First ascentS. Leppish & H. Vargas, 1957-09-27.
          Arista NO. F; 1 day. 1965-08-24First ascentL. Irwin & J. Ricker, 1965-08-24.
          Pendientes SO (SW ridge via W slopes). F; 1 day. 1965-07-05First ascentL. Baker & G. Holdsworth, 1965-07-05.
          SW Face. D; 1 day.
          SW side
          Pendientes E & Arete Oeste (SW Ridge). F; 30°; 4h. 1948-07-05First ascentA. Szepessy & M. Soni, 1948-07-05.
          • Tomé pp.179#4
          • Sharman pp.79
          • Biggar 2005 pp.84
          NE Face. F; 1 day.
          Huamanripa (Chago)-9.4263-77.37955258
          1959-07-14
          Huamanripa, North Ridge,
          First ascent          		North Ridge: B. Andersen, T. Andersen, J. Braig, H. Clark, M. Goodro, D. Green & J. Wickerson
          NE side
          North Ridge. F; 1 day. 1959-07-14First ascentB. Andersen, T. Andersen, J. Braig, H. Clark, M. Goodro, D. Green & J. Wickerson, 1959-07-14.
          • Sharman pp.80

          Huantsan

          San Juan group

          San Juan-9.47226-77.3267135843
          San Juan has three main ridges: (W)NW ridge from Quimarumi-San Juan col (5200m) and NE ridge from Maparaju-San Juan col. All main routes are mid-grade undertakings.
          1957-07-05
          San Juan, South ridge,
          First ascent          		South ridge: Nick Clinch & Rodman L. Tidrick
          1958-08-14
          San Juan, NW ridge,
          First ascent          		NW ridge: Myrtle L. Emslie, Derek Fabian, Hugh Simpson & William Wallace
          1991-08-04
          San Juan, East arete,
          First ascent          		East arete: David M. Sharman & Duncan Thomas
          North side
          From Quimarumi-San Juan col (5200m)
          NW ridge (Arista NO). AD+; 900/1600m, 2 day round trip from the valley. 1958-08-14First ascentMyrtle L. Emslie, Derek Fabian, Hugh Simpson & William Wallace, 1958-08-14.
          Normal route. Via Quimarumi-San Juan col (5200m) and P. 5451.
          East arete
          East arete. D; 50°; 2 days. 1991-08-04First ascentDavid M. Sharman & Duncan Thomas, 1991-08-04.
          South ridge
          Via Tumarinaraju-San Juan col (5400m)
          South ridge. D; II/III; 2 days. 1957-07-05First ascentNick Clinch & Rodman L. Tidrick, 1957-07-05.
          Via Tumarinaraju-San Juan col (5400m).
          San Juan Sur (Tumarinaraju)-9.4858-77.32195670
          1972-07-03
          San Juan Sur, East ridge,
          First ascent          		East ridge: Ronald E. Fear & William Lahr
          East ridge
          East ridge. D-; 60°; 1200m, 1 day. 1972-07-03First ascentRonald E. Fear & William Lahr, 1972-07-03.
          South ridge.
          Quimarumi (San Juan Este, P.5459)-9.4762-77.35615459
          At the head of the Quebrada Minas, east of San Juan Norte.
          1966-08-11
          Quimarumi, East ridge,
          First ascent          		East ridge: David Bathgate, Terry Burnell, Lisle Irwin & John Ricker
          East ridge
          East ridge. PD+; II; 4,5-5h. 1966-08-11First ascentDavid Bathgate, Terry Burnell, Lisle Irwin & John Ricker, 1966-08-11.
          Via Quimarumi-San Juan col (5200m) and P. 5451.

          Huamashraju group

          Huamashraju (Yanawaqra)-9.524407-77.3843465434
          Southernmost snow peaks on the ridge running SW from Pongas Norte. Not to be mixed with Huamashraju located in Huantsan massif.
          1954-05-15
          Huamashraju, Pendientes Oeste,
          First ascent          		Pendientes Oeste: J. Cabana & A. Soriano
          1967-07-01
          Huamashraju, East side,
          First ascent          		East side: D. Felder & E. Schill
          1967-08-04
          Huamashraju, South slopes,
          First ascent          		South slopes: R. Cundiff, L. Duesberg, Donald S. Liska, G. Getzel & H. Walton
          1996-06-13
          Huamashraju, Arista NO,
          First ascent          		Arista NO: A. Zigon & B. Strmsek
          1998-01-01
          Huamashraju, MK Route,
          First ascent          		MK Route: Maura Hanning & Ken Sims
          1998-01-01
          Huamashraju, Sims-Hanning,
          First ascent          		Sims-Hanning: Maura Hanning & Ken Sims
          2000-01-01
          Huamashraju, Thai Express,
          First ascent          		Thai Express: Ken Sims, Naresaun Butthaum & Dennis Jackson
          2000-01-01
          Huamashraju, Sims-Jackson,
          First ascent          		Sims-Jackson: Ken Sims & Dennis Jackson
          West side
          Consists of an almost vertical granite wall of 200m leading to an equal distance of snow climbing up the NW ridge.
          Arista NO. AD+; 500m, 1 day. 1996-06-13First ascentA. Zigon & B. Strmsek, 1996-06-13.
          Thai Express. Mixed, 5.9. 2000-01-01First ascentKen Sims, Naresaun Butthaum & Dennis Jackson, 2000.
          Far left side of the face.
          Sims-Jackson. Mixed, 5.9. 2000-01-01First ascentKen Sims & Dennis Jackson, 2000.
          MK Route. Mixed, nccs III 5.9. 1998-01-01First ascentMaura Hanning & Ken Sims, 1998.
          to the left of Sims-Hanning, taking the obvious line just left of the large roof system that is left of the Sims-Hanning Route.
          Sims-Hanning. Mixed, nccs IV 5.9+ R; 6b, 60°; 6h. 1998-01-01First ascentMaura Hanning & Ken Sims, 1998.
          8 pitches up the middle of the wall to gain NW ridge, then 200m of ice ridge to the summit.
          Pendientes Oeste. IV PD; 350/1000m, 4,5-5h day. 1954-05-15First ascentJ. Cabana & A. Soriano, 1954-05-15.
          South side
          South slopes. PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1967-08-04First ascentR. Cundiff, L. Duesberg, Donald S. Liska, G. Getzel & H. Walton, 1967-08-04.
          East side
          East side. 1967-07-01First ascentD. Felder & E. Schill, 1967-07.
          • Sharmann pp.97
          Quimaraju (Quiso)5406
          Minor peak on on W ridge of Huantsan Norte between Huamasraju peaks in the west and Huantsan Norte in the east.
          1967-06-27
          Quimaraju, Arista SO,
          First ascent          		Arista SO: Y. Komatsu & A. Miyashita
          1967-07-31
          Quimaraju, East face,
          First ascent          		East face: R. Cundiff, L. Duelsberg, Donald S. Liska, G. Detzel & H. Walton
          1973-07-03
          Quimaraju, North slope,
          First ascent          		North slope: Curtis W. Stark & Richard H. Webster
          North side
          North slope. Mixed, PD; 1100m, 1 day. 1973-07-03First ascentCurtis W. Stark & Richard H. Webster, 1973-07-03.
          East side
          East face. 1100m. 1967-07-31First ascentR. Cundiff, L. Duelsberg, Donald S. Liska, G. Detzel & H. Walton, 1967-07-31.
          Arista SO. Rock, 1 day. 1967-06-27First ascentY. Komatsu & A. Miyashita, 1967-06-27.
          Huamashraju Este (Huamashpunta)-9.524406-77.3802285250
          Located on East ridge of Huamashraju, west of Quimaraju.
          1962-07-19
          Huamashraju Este, Pendientes Sur,
          First ascent          		Pendientes Sur: Y. Hamano, N. Kaburaki, A. Muraj & P. Morales
          1998-08-23
          Huamashraju Este, Cara Este,
          First ascent          		Cara Este: R. Hidalgo & D. Fernández
          East side
          Cara Este. Rock, TD; V; 350m. 1998-08-23First ascentR. Hidalgo & D. Fernández, 1998-08-23.
          • Tomé pp.219#2
          South side
          Pendientes Sur. AD+; 1000m, 1 day. 1962-07-19First ascentY. Hamano, N. Kaburaki, A. Muraj & P. Morales, 1962-07-19.
          • Tomé pp.218#1

          Huantsan group

          Huantsan (Wantsan)-9.515833-77.316369
          One of the most difficult peaks in Cordillera Blanca. No proper normal route exists, albeit NNW ridge is closest to one. Obvious challenge would be complete traverse over NNW Ridge via Norte to Main summits, from there along SW ridge to col between Main and Oeste, oner NE ridge to Oeste and down SW ridge over Sur.
          1952-07-07
          Huantsan, NNW ridge,
          First ascent          		NNW ridge: Lionel Terray, de Booy & Egeler
          1974-08-17
          Huantsan, NE ridge,
          First ascent          		NE ridge: M. Batard, J.M. Maire, G. Missilier, M. Parmentier, D. Nett, G. Seibel & M. Johns
          1979-08-02
          Huantsan, West face,
          First ascent          		West face: B. Young, K. Messer & M. Lehner
          • Egeler, C G.: Challenge of the Andes the Conquest of Mount Huantsan. Isbn: 9781175179517. Nabu Press, 2011.
          • Kiendler pp.82-3
          East side
          NE ridge. TD+; 150m, 3+ days. 1974-08-17First ascentM. Batard, J.M. Maire, G. Missilier, M. Parmentier, D. Nett, G. Seibel & M. Johns, 1974-08-17.
          West side
          NNW ridge. D+/TD-; 1000m, 2 days round trip from camp at 5500m (from Quebrada Shallap). 1952-07-07First ascentLionel Terray, de Booy & Egeler, 1952-07-07.
          Normal route. Via foresummit of Huantsan Norte (P. 5950m) to Huantsan Norte (6113m, 550m of climbing), then to col between Norte and main (5950m) and along NNW ridge to the summit. Long and technical and most difficulties are located high up.
          West face (Cara Oeste). TD/ED; 1400m, 3+ days. 1979-08-02First ascentB. Young, K. Messer & M. Lehner, 1979-08-02.
          Huantsan Oeste-9.516661-77.3117356270
          Not very independent peak located close to Main and separated from it by not very deep but difficult col. Long SW ridge drops down to col between Oeste and Sur.
          1973-06-20
          Huantsan Oeste, SW slopes,
          First ascent          		SW slopes: L. Alipi, C. Di Pietro, C. Ferrari, A. Calmarini, G. Gianantonio, Domingos Giobbi, L. Guidali, S. Liati & M. Mazzoleni
          1984-07-01
          Huantsan Oeste, North face,
          First ascent          		North face: J. tarvey & K. Star
          1989-07-23
          Huantsan Oeste, West face,
          First ascent          		West face: D. Blanchi, E. Begin, J.P. Floras & E. Brochot
          2010-01-01
          Huantsan Oeste, Les Trois Mousquetaires,
          First ascent          		Les Trois Mousquetaires: Beto Pinto, Rolando Morales & Sophie Denis
          South face
          Les Trois Mousquetaires. 2010-01-01First ascentBeto Pinto, Rolando Morales & Sophie Denis, 2010.
          south face of the west ridge.
          West side
          North face. TD-; 1400m. 1984-07-01First ascentJ. tarvey & K. Star, 1984-07.
          To col between Main and Oeste and NE ridge to summit.
          West face. D-; 1200m. 1989-07-23First ascentD. Blanchi, E. Begin, J.P. Floras & E. Brochot, 1989-07-23.
          More direct route than SW slopes.
          SW slopes (Italian route). D+; 1200m. 1973-06-20First ascentL. Alipi, C. Di Pietro, C. Ferrari, A. Calmarini, G. Gianantonio, Domingos Giobbi, L. Guidali, S. Liati & M. Mazzoleni, 1973-06-20.
          To col between Oeste and Sur, then more or less along SW ridge to summit.
          Huantsan Norte-9.506037-77.315046133
          The easiest route on Huantsan goes over Huantsan Norte. Several ridges join at the foresummit P.5950m.
          1952-07-07
          Huantsan Norte, NW ridge,
          First ascent          		NW ridge: T. de Booy, G. Egeler & Lionel Terray
          1978-08-08
          Huantsan Norte, SW ridge,
          First ascent          		SW ridge: R. Auda, P. Bonnier, J. Bouquier, L. Coursol, P. Ferry & G. Martin
          1980-06-06
          Huantsan Norte, West face,
          First ascent          		West face: K. Klinger & W. Sachatonicek
          SW ridge
          SW ridge. D-; 1000m, 3+ days. 1978-08-08First ascentR. Auda, P. Bonnier, J. Bouquier, L. Coursol, P. Ferry & G. Martin, 1978-08-08.
          West face
          West face. D; 55°; 1100m, 3+ days. 1980-06-06First ascentK. Klinger & W. Sachatonicek, 1980-06-06.
          NW ridge
          NW ridge. AD+; 50-60°; 1100m, 3+ days, 5-7h from col to summit. 1952-07-07First ascentT. de Booy, G. Egeler & Lionel Terray, 1952-07-07.
          Climbed along the NNW ridge of Huantsan main summit. From the col (5400m) along the North ridge of Huantsan Norte between Huantsan Norte and Tumarinaraju II.
          • Tomé pp220#1
          • Biggar pp.86
          • Sharman pp.90
          Huantsan Sur-9.5273-77.30845913
          1967-06-23
          Huantsan Sur, Pendientes oeste,
          First ascent          		Pendientes oeste: K. Kobayashi, A. Miyashita, T. Hayashi, Y. Homatsu & M. Nishigori
          1973-06-19
          Huantsan Sur, Arista Norte,
          First ascent          		Arista Norte: C. DiPietro, A. Calmarini & Domingos Giobbi
          1997-01-01
          Huantsan Sur, Pendientes este, arista SE,
          First ascent          		Pendientes este, arista SE: Peruvian expedition
          2006-06-27
          Huantsan Sur, Death or Glory,
          First ascent          		Death or Glory: Nick Bullock & Matt Helliker
          East side
          Death or Glory (NE Buttress). TD/ED; 1000m. 2006-06-27First ascentNick Bullock & Matt Helliker, 2006-06-27.
          • Huantsan Sur, Northeast Buttress. Unlike the busy, easily accessible western side of Huantsan Sur (5919m), the eastern side is another world: remote, serious and quiet. By Nick Bullock at Alpinist on 2006-11-27.
          Pendientes este, arista SE. D-; 1000m, 2+ days. 1997-01-01First ascentPeruvian expedition, 1997.
          • Tomé pp.226#3
          • Sharman pp.92
          West side
          Arista Norte (North ridge). D; 1000m, 2+ days. 1973-06-19First ascentC. DiPietro, A. Calmarini & Domingos Giobbi, 1973-06-19.
          From the col between Oeste and Sur.
          Pendientes oeste (West slopes). D; 1000m, 2+ days. 1967-06-23First ascentK. Kobayashi, A. Miyashita, T. Hayashi, Y. Homatsu & M. Nishigori, 1967-06-23.
          Pucashallash5130
          Located on NE ridge of Huantsan Norte
          1969-07-08
          Pucashallash, ,
          First ascent          		Party from
          1969-07-08
          Pucashallash, North side,
          First ascent          		North side:
          North side
          North side. 1969-07-08Pucashallash, North side, First ascent , 1969-07-08.

          Cashan group

          Cashan Este (Cashán Este)-9.552339-77.3507025723
          1948-06-17
          Cashan Este, SW face,
          First ascent          		SW face: B. Lauterburg, F. Marmillod, R. Schmid & F. Sigrist
          1980-08-01
          Cashan Este, Cara NO & Arista O,
          First ascent          		Cara NO & Arista O: Peter J. Millar
          1981-07-10
          Cashan Este, NE face,
          First ascent          		NE face: J. Levy
          1981-07-21
          Cashan Este, East ridge,
          First ascent          		East ridge: Richard Soaper, Bob Wilson, Carolyn Griffin & Hans Steyskal
          1998-07-29
          Cashan Este, SE face,
          First ascent          		SE face: R. Hidalgo
          2006-06-25
          Cashan Este, SSW Ridge,
          First ascent          		SSW Ridge: Damian Aurelio, Ray Tennant & David Galloway
          • Sharman pp.93-94
          NE side
          NE face (Cara NE). PD; 45°. 1981-07-10First ascentJ. Levy, 1981-07-10.
          East ridge
          East ridge (Arista E). PD; 60°; PD. 1981-07-21First ascentRichard Soaper, Bob Wilson, Carolyn Griffin & Hans Steyskal, 1981-07-21.
          SE face
          SE face (Cara SE). TD-; 70/80°; 500m. 1998-07-29First ascentR. Hidalgo, 1998-07-29.
          SW side
          SSW Ridge. AD. 2006-06-25First ascentDamian Aurelio, Ray Tennant & David Galloway, 2006-06-25.
          From quebrada Rurec via SSW ridge to col between Cashan Este and Shaqsha.
          SW face
          SW face (Cara SO). AD; 1000m, 1 day. 1948-06-17First ascentB. Lauterburg, F. Marmillod, R. Schmid & F. Sigrist, 1948-06-17.
          • Tomé 234#1
          West side
          Cara NO & Arista O. TD. 1980-08-01First ascentPeter J. Millar, 1980-08.
          NNW face of the second minor summit east of Cashan Oeste, then traverse to Cashan Este.
          Shaqsha (Shacsha, Huantsan Chico)-9.587802-77.3658515703
          • Central (5703m-9.587802-77.365851)
          • Sur (P.5697) (5697m)

          Little known and rarely climbed peak in the southern Cordillera Blanca, despite being well visible to the road leading from coast (Lima) to Huaraz after Conococha Pass. South Ridge of South summit (P.5697m) is featured on the cover of Brad Johnson guidebook.

          Shaqsha is located at the southern end of high mountain chain (Shaqsha - Cashan Este - Nevado Rurec). It consists of prominent NE ridge towards Cashan Este and sharp 1km long south ridge leading first almost diagonally to Shaqsha Sur, then dropping steeply to glacier saddle (South Spur). From close to main summit long but less prominent ridge leads NW separating quebrada Cashan from smaller valley with lagunas Shaqsha and Azulejaccocha (the former is usual base camp site fro west side climbs). On the east side there are two major spurs towards quebrada Rurec, one from south summit and one from the main summit. Generally the west and south faces are ice whereas east side is much rockier.

          Most common way to climb Shaqsha is from west. Normal route is considered to be West face (which could just as well be called NW ridge). South Spur is the other route seeing some climbing activity. East side has few routes leading to either summit and additionally rock routes that finish on pre summits. No routes are known to have been climbed from quebrada Cashan.

          • Shaqsha south and west faces. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Shaqsha south and west faces. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
            Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in Huaripampa, Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012, licensed under: Public Domain.
          1958-08-06
          Shaqsha, Arista NE,
          First ascent          		Arista NE: M. Chancy, Y. D'Aubigne, M. Emslie, H. Simpson & W. Wallace
          1988-07-01
          Shaqsha, South ridge,
          First ascent          		South ridge: H. Martens & J. Maardalen
          1991-08-14
          Shaqsha, West Flank,
          First ascent          		West Flank: David Sharman
          1999-05-23
          Shaqsha, Feliz cumpleanos momo,
          First ascent          		Feliz cumpleanos momo: Xavier Carrad, Abel Calana, Juan Morales, Marcos Nino, Franco Obando, Hector Reyes, César Vargas & Aritsa Monasterio
          2005-06-01
          Shaqsha, SE face,
          First ascent          		SE face: Cesar Rosales, Miguel Martinez, Elias Flores & Tiziano Orio
          2006-06-14
          Shaqsha, West Flank Direct,
          First ascent          		West Flank Direct: Unknown
          2013-07-23
          Shaqsha, Würmligrübler,
          First ascent          		Würmligrübler: Mathias Schick, Florian Zwahlen, Marcel Probst & David Hefti
          NW face
          Ice face above quebrada Cashan framed by NW and NE ridges. No information about any climbs from this side.
          SE face
          Wide mainly rocky face above quebrada Rurec. The face has few spurs, most prominent of them being the one from south summit via the shoulder forming the left border and dropping due east from the main summit. The face is framed by the should or SE spur on the left and NE ridge (leading to Cashan Este). The long ridge towards quebrada Rurec features a pointed 5040m summit called Punta Giampiero Capoccia by the Italian party who put up two difficult rock routes on it.
          Arista NE. D; 2 days round trip from high camp at 4900m. 1958-08-06First ascentM. Chancy, Y. D'Aubigne, M. Emslie, H. Simpson & W. Wallace, 1958-08-06.
          From quebrada Rurec along E slopes to col at 5400m on NE ridge.
          Feliz cumpleanos momo. 85°, IV+; 700m, 17h from camp at 4900m. 1999-05-23First ascentXavier Carrad, Abel Calana, Juan Morales, Marcos Nino, Franco Obando, Hector Reyes, César Vargas & Aritsa Monasterio, 1999-05-23.
          Exact route line is not known, but the route probably lies to the right of "La via del gemellaggio Yanet e Kristine", possibly going via the shoulder.
          South face
          South ridge of south summit (P. 5697) is featured on the cover of Brad Johnson guidebook. It appears that some parties stop at the end of the ridge without continuing to the actual south summit which is roughly 2 pitches further along airy ridge. Seems to be somewhat more difficult but safer than serac-threatened West face or NW ridge routes. At least in 2012, the most logical route turned the upper bergshrund on the right hand side (SE face) and climbed it until about mid way, from where it switched to the left hand side of the ridge. Icy face to the right of South ridge is SSE face. Upper part of the face is narrow and leads to south summit. Lower down ridge leads to shoulder, from where steep rocky spur falls down to quebrada Rurec. On the left hand side the face is bordered on South spur.
          South ridge (South spur, Arista Sur). Snow, AD+/D; 45-60°; 500m. Approach from glacier camp 0,5h, climb 8-10h roundtrip. 1988-07-01First ascentH. Martens & J. Maardalen, 1988-07.
          Left hand side of the South ridge. Sharman guidebook gives a meager grade of PD+, which seems to be a sandbag. Tomé grade is AD+ which is probably pretty close. To gain access to the climb may require either climbing few meters of vertical or overhanging ice or rock/mixed ground to overcome the prominent upper bergschrund. The first ascent party did not continue over 1 km ridge to the main summit.
          SE face (La via del gemellaggio Yanet e Kristine). Ice, D+; 70-75°; 350m, 8h. 2005-06-01First ascentCesar Rosales, Miguel Martinez, Elias Flores & Tiziano Orio, 2005-06.
          Passes the upper bergshrund of south ridge on the RHS, then continues to the top very close to the south ridge. At least in 2012, the most logical route turned the upper bergshrund on the right hand side (SE face) and climbed it until about mid way, from where it switched to the left hand side of the ridge.
          West side
          The actual West face framed by South and NW ridges is a wild labyrinth of seracs. Sharman route crosses below the face to gain the NW ridge on the left hand side of the face. Direct variant negotiates through the seracs.
          West Flank (Pendientes NO). Snow, AD; 500m, 5-7h from glacier camp. 1991-08-14First ascentDavid Sharman, 1991-08-14.
          Normal route. From the camp across the glacier to NW ridge. Finish with 150m headwall (60). Summit may have difficult mushroom. The upper part of he route has two variations, original variant joins NW ridge for the upper part, then traverses along the ridge to the summit. Conditions permitting the face can be climbed directly to the summit, which avoids often corniced ridge.
          West Flank Direct (Pendientes NO Direct). Snow, AD+; 80°; 500m, 5-7h from glacier camp. 2006-06-14First ascentUnknown, 2006-06-14.
          Direct variation to west face. No further details exist.
          Würmligrübler. Rock, 7a+, 60°; 240m. 2013-07-23First ascentMathias Schick, Florian Zwahlen, Marcel Probst & David Hefti, 2013-07-23.
          Climbs the steep rock close to South ridge.
          Cashán Oeste-9.56021-77.3696715701
          1967-07-04
          Cashán Oeste, Vertiente O,
          First ascent          		Vertiente O: D. Anderson, L. Carter & J. Miller
          1993-07-26
          Cashán Oeste, NE ridge,
          First ascent          		NE ridge: Mark Richey & Barry Rugo
          2011-07-25
          Cashán Oeste, North ridge,
          First ascent          		North ridge: Carlos Cabeza & Diego Fernández
          • Sharman pp.95
          North ridge
          North ridge (Arista N). Rock, TD/TD+; 6a+; 450m. 2011-07-25First ascentCarlos Cabeza & Diego Fernández, 2011-07-25.
          East side
          NE ridge (Cara E & arista NE). TD; 2 days. 1993-07-26First ascentMark Richey & Barry Rugo, 1993-07-26.
          West side
          Vertiente O (Cara Oeste). D+; 1200m, 2 days. 1967-07-04First ascentD. Anderson, L. Carter & J. Miller, 1967-07-04.
          From the glacier Oeste along NW ridge to NW foresummit and further along airy corniced ridge to the summit.
          Abeja (Motoko, P.5377)5377
          1967-01-01
          Abeja, North side,
          First ascent          		North side:
          • Sharman pp.94
          North side
          North side. 1967-01-01Abeja, North side, First ascent , 1967.
          Abeja Sur5300
          • Sharman pp.94
          Pucamataraju5224
          • Sharman pp.94
          P.51265126
          • Sharman pp.94
          P.51005100
          • Sharman pp.94

          Rurec

          Rurec group

          Uruashraju (Urwashrahu)-9.579338-77.3090315722
          • Uruashraju Norte (5464m)
          • Uruashraju (5722m-9.579338-77.309031)
          • Punta MePi (5030m)
          Beautiful snow peak offering good view of Huantsan. Easiest ascents are from NW (quebrada Rurec). SW side from quebrada Pumahuacanca has also been climbed. NE face from quebrada ALhuina and South face above lagunas Huansan seem to be steep, but no routes exist on either side.
          1966-06-17
          Uruashraju, West Ridge,
          First ascent          		West Ridge: Domingos Giobbi & Carlo Mauri
          1975-07-27
          Uruashraju, South Ridge,
          First ascent          		South Ridge: J. Packa, D. Ciochetti, D. Lanmade, C. Slaymaker & Michael Rourke
          1987-07-08
          Uruashraju, NW face,
          First ascent          		NW face: Andre Schoon, Alistair Schoon & M. Scott
          2006-11-09
          Uruashraju, The Flight of the Witch HSF,
          First ascent          		The Flight of the Witch HSF: Pietro Rago
          SW side
          South Ridge. AD+; 45-65°; 1200m, 4h. 1975-07-27First ascentJ. Packa, D. Ciochetti, D. Lanmade, C. Slaymaker & Michael Rourke, 1975-07-27.
          Normal route. Camp in a col below South Ridge (5250m).
          NW side
          West and south(east) ridges join to form the south buttress. From the top of the south buttress sharp and corniced ridge leads to summit almost horizontally.
          West Ridge (Arista Oeste). Mixed, AD+; 65-70°; 7-8h. 1966-06-17First ascentDomingos Giobbi & Carlo Mauri, 1966-06-17.
          Joins South ridge below the summit.
          NW face. PD; 45°; 2 days from Tararhua. 1987-07-08First ascentAndre Schoon, Alistair Schoon & M. Scott, 1987-07-08.
          Punta Mepi
          Rock big wall
          The Flight of the Witch HSF. Rock, 5.11b X,A3+; 900m, 20 pitches. 2006-11-09First ascentPietro Rago, 2006-11-09.
          Rurec-9.540235-77.3111345700
          Rurec Principal has three main ridges: NW ridge to Rurec Oeste I and II, NW ridge to Huantsan Sur and South ridge with Rurec Sur I, II and III. The peak can be climbed easily from both NW (quebrada Rajucolta) and SW (quebrada Rurec). East side above quebrada Alhuina have no recorded routes.
          1965-07-17
          Rurec, NW Ridge,
          First ascent          		NW Ridge: E. Angeles, H. Adams Carter & Domingos Giobbi
          1979-07-13
          Rurec, SW face,
          First ascent          		SW face: R. Renshaw & D. Wilkinson
          1981-07-09
          Rurec, SW buttress,
          First ascent          		SW buttress: S. Chaney, J. Lund, B. Wilson, S. Howe, R. Jones, J. Crystal, P. Cloud, D. Tody & J. Glidden
          1999-05-23
          Rurec, Brevete Seguro,
          First ascent          		Brevete Seguro: Koki Castañeda, Williams Dávalos, Saúl Angeles, Chinchilla Zárate, Toni Ortiz & Félix Vicencio
          SW side
          SW face. PD+; 45°; 1200m, 6-7h. 1979-07-13First ascentR. Renshaw & D. Wilkinson, 1979-07-13.
          SW buttress. D; 1200m, 1 day. 1981-07-09First ascentS. Chaney, J. Lund, B. Wilson, S. Howe, R. Jones, J. Crystal, P. Cloud, D. Tody & J. Glidden, 1981-07-09.
          Brevete Seguro. 60°; 14h. 1999-05-23First ascentKoki Castañeda, Williams Dávalos, Saúl Angeles, Chinchilla Zárate, Toni Ortiz & Félix Vicencio, 1999-05-23.
          SW ridge to South face.
          NW Ridge
          NW Ridge. PD; 45°; 800m, 6-7h. 1965-07-17First ascentE. Angeles, H. Adams Carter & Domingos Giobbi, 1965-07-17.
          Yahuaraju (Rurec Oeste I, Yawarraju)-9.535749-77.3188595673
          The peak has three main ridges: NW ridge is easy ascent from laguna Ahuac, SW ridge to Rurec Oeste II and SE ridge to Rurec Principal. West face is far more difficult mixed face.
          1965-07-17
          Yahuaraju, Arista NO,
          First ascent          		Arista NO: E. Angeles, H. Adams Carter & Domingos Giobbi
          1980-06-01
          Yahuaraju, Cara SO,
          First ascent          		Cara SO: K. Klinger & W. Sachatoniek
          Arista NO
          Arista NO. AD; 45°; 500m, 1 day. 1965-07-17First ascentE. Angeles, H. Adams Carter & Domingos Giobbi, 1965-07-17.
          Cara SO
          Cara SO. TD; 45°; 600m, 1 day. 1980-06-01First ascentK. Klinger & W. Sachatoniek, 1980-06-01.
          Rurec Oeste II-9.542563-77.3348675350
          Located on the West ridge of Rurec Oeste I. SW ridge of Rurec Oeste II leads to Cashan Este with several minor peaks in between the two.
          1967-06-22
          Rurec Oeste II, Pendientes NO,
          First ascent          		Pendientes NO: J. Hamada & K. Hamada
          Pendientes NO
          Pendientes NO. F; 400m, 1 day. 1967-06-22First ascentJ. Hamada & K. Hamada, 1967-06-22.
          Tuctopunta-9.6040-77.31935343
          Highest peaks on Ryrec main chain south of Uruashraju. Not far from the road end, but no information is readily available.
          Rurec Sur II (Rurec Este)-9.5599-77.30335320
          1958-08-08
          Rurec Sur II, West slopes,
          First ascent          		West slopes: H. Chaney, Y. D'Aubigne, M. Emslie & W. Wallace
          West side
          West slopes. F; 30°; 700m, 1 day. 1958-08-08First ascentH. Chaney, Y. D'Aubigne, M. Emslie & W. Wallace, 1958-08-08.
          Rurec Sur I (Alpishpunta)-9.5548-77.30125300
          1981-07-07
          Rurec Sur I, West side,
          First ascent          		West side: F. Mohling, S. Chaney, D. Tody, J. Crystal, R. Thron & L. Krimen
          West side
          West side. F/PD; 30°; 700m, 1 day. 1981-07-07First ascentF. Mohling, S. Chaney, D. Tody, J. Crystal, R. Thron & L. Krimen, 1981-07-07.
          Rurec Sur III (Rurec Oeste)-9.5657-77.30645300
          Southernmost of Rurec peaks, located 1,5km north of Uruashraju
          1957-08-10
          Rurec Sur III, West side,
          First ascent          		West side: W. Dixon & I. Lasner
          West side
          West side. F/PD; 30°; 700m, 1 day. 1957-08-10First ascentW. Dixon & I. Lasner, 1957-08-10.

          Pumahuacanca group

          Pumahuacanca (Cerro Arhuay)-9.5865-77.33095563
          1969-06-24
          Pumahuacanca, North face,
          First ascent          		North face: Hugh R. Clark & Alistair McKeith
          2012-01-01
          Pumahuacanca, El sexto teletubbies,
          First ascent          		El sexto teletubbies: Beto Pinto & Yonny Rosales
          North side
          Several other routes have been climbed on the face by Peruvians.
          North face. D; 1000m, 1 day roundtrip from high camp. 1969-06-24First ascentHugh R. Clark & Alistair McKeith, 1969-06-24.
          El sexto teletubbies. TD+; 5c+, 50-70°; 300m. 2012-01-01First ascentBeto Pinto & Yonny Rosales, 2012.
          Pumahuacanca Chico-9.5839-77.32565400
          Several summits between Pumahuacanca and Uruashraju Chico
          Uruashraju Chico-9.5803-77.32135360
          1964-07-29
          Uruashraju Chico, East slopes,
          First ascent          		East slopes: Domingos Giobbi, Carlo Mauri & Macario Ángeles
          East side
          East slopes. 1964-07-29First ascentDomingos Giobbi, Carlo Mauri & Macario Ángeles, 1964-07-29.
          Cerro Pumahuagangan (Pumahuacanca Sur)-9.5972-77.34015138
          Punta Numa (Chaupihuanca)4700
          1997-08-19
          Punta Numa, Monttrek,
          First ascent          		Monttrek: Eloy Callado & César Pedrochi
          2001-08-21
          Punta Numa, Hasta Luego Zorro,
          First ascent          		Hasta Luego Zorro: Roberto Iannilli
          2003-08-23
          Punta Numa, Caravaca Jubilar,
          First ascent          		Caravaca Jubilar: Gallego brothers, Juan Luis Garcia & Juan Carlos Garcia
          2005-01-01
          Punta Numa, Libertad es Partecipacion,
          First ascent          		Libertad es Partecipacion: Roberto Iannilli & Giulio Canti
          2006-07-01
          Punta Numa, Qui Io Vado Ancora,
          First ascent          		Qui Io Vado Ancora: Andrea Pavan, Simone Pedeferri & Fabio Palma
          North face
          Caravaca Jubilar. Rock, ED+/nccs VI 5.11 A4; 7a,A4; 750m, 21 pitches. 2003-08-23First ascentGallego brothers, Juan Luis Garcia & Juan Carlos Garcia, 2003-08-23.
          Qui Io Vado Ancora. Rock, 7a,A1; 550m. 2006-07-01First ascentAndrea Pavan, Simone Pedeferri & Fabio Palma, 2006-07.
          • New rock challenges on the walls of Peru. Climbers seeking Peruvian rock climbs have in recent years focused on the well-established routes on La Esfinge (5325m) in the Quebrada de Paron, but increasingly the rock faces of the Quebrada Rurec Valley, which offer easy approaches, are attracting attention. By Fabio Palma at Alpinist on 2006-09-16.
          Hasta Luego Zorro. Rock, EX+; 7a,A3+; 1200m, 23 pitches. 2001-08-21First ascentRoberto Iannilli, 2001-08-21.
          Monttrek (Cara NO, Catalan route). Rock, ED+; 6c,A4; 750m. 1997-08-19First ascentEloy Callado & César Pedrochi, 1997-08-19.
          Libertad es Partecipacion. Rock, 6c,A2; 600/1600m. 2005-01-01First ascentRoberto Iannilli & Giulio Canti, 2005.
          On the wall immediately left of the corner system that separates Punta Numa from Punta Ayudin.
          Punta Ayudin4700
          2005-07-23
          Punta Ayudin, Dominguero Vertical,
          First ascent          		Dominguero Vertical: Ramon Perez de Ayala, Daniel Gutierrez, Jorge Ferrero & Maria Lopez
          NW face
          Face immediately to the left of Punta Numa.
          Dominguero Vertical. Rock, 6b,A2; 650m. 2005-07-23First ascentRamon Perez de Ayala, Daniel Gutierrez, Jorge Ferrero & Maria Lopez, 2005-07-23.

          Yanamarey

          Yanamarey group

          Yanamarey Norte-9.6485-77.27045262
          The peaks has three main ridges: Log NE ridge with P.4965 and P.4980 and another ridge system running generally towards north from it, SE ridge to P. 5090 and Yanamarey Sur and extensive SW ridge which leads to Pucaraju and separates quebradas Araranca (north) and Yanamarey (south). Not sure whether North ridge climbed in 1987 is the long ridge system running north from NE ridge or the shurter less prominent one dropping to quebrada Araranca. East face from quebrada Hualpish has no recorded ascents.
          1967-07-07
          Yanamarey Norte, Arista Norte,
          First ascent          		Arista Norte: D. Anderson, E. Angeles, V. Angeles, D. Bernays, H. Carter, L. Carter, J. Duenwald & G. Henostroza
          North side
          Arista Norte. PD; II; 5-6h from fork of quebrada Yanamaray. 1967-07-07First ascentD. Anderson, E. Angeles, V. Angeles, D. Bernays, H. Carter, L. Carter, J. Duenwald & G. Henostroza, 1967-07-07.
          Yanamarey Sur-9.6689-77.25565220
          Yanamarey Sur has four ridges: NW ridge to P-5090 and Yanamarey Norte, (N)E ridge with a couple of minor peaks, SE ridge towards Punta Cahuish and very long West (SW) ridge to Querococha. The latter ridge divides quebrada Yanamarey from quebrada Conde (road to East side through Tunel de Cahuish). North face above quebrada Hualpish and SE face above quebrada Pucavado have no recorded routes. The peaks sees very little climbing, as the ascent of West ridge in 2007 was presumable only the second ascent of the peak.
          1965-07-20
          Yanamarey Sur, Pendientes Sur,
          First ascent          		Pendientes Sur: Dr. Georg Hartmann & Ernst Reiss
          SW side
          Pendientes Sur. F; 5-6h from fork of quebrada Yanamaray. 1965-07-20First ascentDr. Georg Hartmann & Ernst Reiss, 1965-07-20.
          West side
          Very long West (SW) ridge to Querococha dividing quebrada Yanamarey from quebrada Conde (road to East side through Tunel de Cahuish).
          West ridge.
          Punta Cahuish (Yanamarey de Cahuish)-9.6800-77.24695115
          1966-06-26
          Punta Cahuish, SE ridge,
          First ascent          		SE ridge: A. Cram & L. Cram
          South side
          SE ridge. 1 day return. 1966-06-26First ascentA. Cram & L. Cram, 1966-06-26.
          • Sharmann pp.96

          Pucaraju group

          Pucaraju (South summit)-9.6745-77.31165090
          • Pucaraju Norte (5090m-9.6745-77.3116)
          • Pucaraju Sur (4950m)
          Located close to laguna Querococha on the western part of Yanamarey group. SW face is well visible to the lake, SE face can be approached from quebrada Yanamarey and north side from quebrada Qulloc. SW face hosts several short but steep ice and mixed routes. It is one of the few places in the southern groups where technical routes have been recorded.
          1967-07-23
          Pucaraju, Cara Sur,
          First ascent          		Cara Sur: Dave Bernays & Glicerio Hemostroza
          1973-01-01
          Pucaraju, Arista Norte,
          First ascent          		Arista Norte: M. Conway & G. Mosely
          1995-01-01
          Pucaraju, Hot Line,
          First ascent          		Hot Line: Jean Noel Roux, Jean Emmanual Scart & Christophe Vigne
          1995-01-01
          Pucaraju, La princesse de petit pois,
          First ascent          		La princesse de petit pois: Cordier & Maynet
          1996-01-01
          Pucaraju, Mururoa,
          First ascent          		Mururoa: Kike Ortuno & Gilbert Salvador
          1996-01-01
          Pucaraju, Adám y Eva et le Bonheur,
          First ascent          		Adám y Eva et le Bonheur: Aramowski & Carrard
          2009-07-27
          Pucaraju, Juego de los Reyes,
          First ascent          		Juego de los Reyes: Marcus Donaldson & Nate Farr
          • Biggar 2005 pp.60-1
          • Kiendler pp.45-6
          North ridge
          Some confusing information regarding this route exists. If it is indeed North of NW ridge, then it would have to be accessed from quebrada Qulloc, not from quebrada Yanamaray (although the latter cane be gained from laguna Querococha at the start of quebrada Yanamnarey).
          Arista Norte. Rock, 1973-01-01First ascentM. Conway & G. Mosely, 1973.
          SW face
          Access to the face from s small side valley of quebrada Yanamaray, accessible from the far end of laguna Querococha. The face is well visible from the lake. Several ice and mixed routes around 350m high and around TD in difficulty in narrow parallel ice couloirs cutting through relatively sound granite. Choose Life leads to highest summit, all the others stop at the summit ridge.
          Mururoa. TD; 80-85°, V+; 350m. 1996-01-01First ascentKike Ortuno & Gilbert Salvador, 1996.
          Adám y Eva et le Bonheur. TD; 85°; 300m. 1996-01-01First ascentAramowski & Carrard, 1996.
          Leads to prominent col between the two summits.
          Choose life.
          Hot Line. TD; 80-90°; 350m. 1995-01-01First ascentJean Noel Roux, Jean Emmanual Scart & Christophe Vigne, 1995.
          La princesse de petit pois. Mixed, TD; 85°; 300m. 1995-01-01First ascentCordier & Maynet, 1995.
          Right side of the North Face. Much of the couloir ice has disappeared, leaving little more than verglassed rock in places. The climb is now completely different to its former self and a lot of drytooling is in order.
          Juego de los Reyes. 5.8, WI4 M6; 300m. 2009-07-27First ascentMarcus Donaldson & Nate Farr, 2009-07-27.
          SE side
          Cara Sur. TD; 300m, 1 day round trip. 1967-07-23First ascentDave Bernays & Glicerio Hemostroza, 1967-07-23.
          South face couloir.

          Pongas

          Pongos Norte

          Pongas Norte I (Jatunllacsha I)-9.7757-77.24965680
          • Pongas Norte I (Jatunllacsha I) (5680m-9.7757-77.2496)
          • Pongas Norte II (5595m)
          • Pongas Norte III (5600m)
          The highest peak in the northern massif. Apparently there are three summits: Pongas Norte I (5680m), Pongas Norte II (5595m) and Pongas Norte III (5600m). Confusingly, DAV map only shows one summit called Jatunllacsha and quotes it at 5630m. To add to the confusion, at least I and III are sometimes referred to as Jatunllacha. Based on a maps, the summits should be located close to each other, as all the peaks close by don't reach anywhere near that kind of height.
          1964-06-06
          Pongas Norte I, North glacier,
          First ascent          		North glacier: Domingos Giobbi, E. Angeles & M. Angeles
          1971-05-23
          Pongas Norte I, SE face,
          First ascent          		SE face: Schiml, Hummel, Fritz & Wibmer
          North glacier
          North glacier (Vertiente N). AD. 1964-06-06First ascentDomingos Giobbi, E. Angeles & M. Angeles, 1964-06-06.
          SE face
          SE face. 1971-05-23First ascentSchiml, Hummel, Fritz & Wibmer, 1971-05-23.
          Queshque-9.7875-77.26835463
          1952-06-05
          Queshque, SW glacier & face,
          First ascent          		SW glacier & face: T. de Booy & C. Egeler
          SW face
          SW glacier & face. 1952-06-05First ascentT. de Booy & C. Egeler, 1952-06-05.
          P.54205420
          1971-05-27
          P.5420, SE ridge,
          First ascent          		SE ridge:
          SW face
          SE ridge. 1971-05-27P.5420, SE ridge, First ascent , 1971-05-27.
          • Sharmann pp.97
          Shahuanca-9.7477-77.23135383
          2000-07-25
          Shahuanca, WSW side,
          First ascent          		WSW side: Clément Guntz & Hugo Robin
          West side
          WSW side. AD+; 1000m. 2000-07-25First ascentClément Guntz & Hugo Robin, 2000-07-25.
          Maretaca-9.7957-77.27185365
          1971-05-17
          Maretaca, Arista N,
          First ascent          		Arista N: P. Schmil, D. Schwenkglenks & F. Winkler
          1971-05-17
          Maretaca, West ridge,
          First ascent          		West ridge: Wibmer & Schiml
          North ridge
          Arista N. 1971-05-17First ascentP. Schmil, D. Schwenkglenks & F. Winkler, 1971-05-17.
          • Tomé pp.247#1
          West ridge
          West ridge. F. 1971-05-17First ascentWibmer & Schiml, 1971-05-17.
          Huamashraju-9.7988-77.27505303
          Southernmost snow peaks on the ridge running SW from Pongas Norte. Not to be mixed with Huamashraju located in Huantsan massif.
          1967-07-01
          Huamashraju, East side,
          First ascent          		East side: D. Felder & E. Schill
          East side
          East side. 1967-07-01First ascentD. Felder & E. Schill, 1967-07.
          • Sharmann pp.97

          Pongos Sur

          Mururaju (Pongas Sur I)-9.8083-77.24405688
          Mururaju is situated in the little-known Raria Valley in the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, 65km southeast of Huaraz. This beautiful peak is rarely climbed, despite offering superb mountain vistas towards Cordillera Huayhuash (south), the Cordillera Huallanca(east), Cordillera Negra (west) and the Cordillera Blanca (north).
          1952-06-10
          Mururaju, West ridge,
          First ascent          		West ridge: Lionel Terray, Cees G. Egeler, Tom de Booy
          1964-08-10
          Mururaju, Arista E,
          First ascent          		Arista E: Domingos Giobbi & E. Angeles
          1971-06-03
          Mururaju, Arista N,
          First ascent          		Arista N: Rolf Röcker, W. Weber, F. Wibmer, H. Güner, W. Hummel, Dr. Schwenkglenks, P. Schmil & Dietrich Fritz
          1999-01-01
          Mururaju, South face direct,
          First ascent          		South face direct:
          2010-07-25
          Mururaju, Slovenska smer,
          First ascent          		Slovenska smer: Drago Frelih
          • Tomé pp.248
          East side
          Arista E. D; 1100m. 1964-08-10First ascentDomingos Giobbi & E. Angeles, 1964-08-10.
          South side
          South face direct (Argentine-Israeli route). TD; WI3; 600m, 10h. 1999-01-01Mururaju, South face direct, First ascent , 1999.
          West side
          West ridge (West ridge & SW face). AD; 1100m, 3 days roundtrip from Huaraz. 1952-06-10First ascentLionel Terray, Cees G. Egeler, Tom de Booy, 1952-06-10.
          Arista N. 1100m. 1971-06-03First ascentRolf Röcker, W. Weber, F. Wibmer, H. Güner, W. Hummel, Dr. Schwenkglenks, P. Schmil & Dietrich Fritz, 1971-06-03.
          Slovenska smer. D; 70°; 1000m, 9h. 2010-07-25First ascentDrago Frelih, 2010-07-25.
          Pongas Sur III (Ichic Pongas)5580
          1971-05-25
          Pongas Sur III, Pendientes NO,
          First ascent          		Pendientes NO: H. Guner, R. Rocker, W. Weber & D. Schwenkglenks
          NW side
          Pendientes NO. 1971-05-25First ascentH. Guner, R. Rocker, W. Weber & D. Schwenkglenks, 1971-05-25.
          • Tomé pp.249#1
          Carakuta (P. 5410)5410
          1971-05-17
          Carakuta, North face,
          First ascent          		North face: W. Hummel & Dietrich Fritz
          North face
          North face. 1971-05-17First ascentW. Hummel & Dietrich Fritz, 1971-05-17.
          Acoraju Norte (P. 5227)5227
          1971-05-18
          Acoraju Norte, North face,
          First ascent          		North face: Rolf Röcker & W. Weber
          North face
          North face. 1971-05-18First ascentRolf Röcker & W. Weber, 1971-05-18.
          Acorumi Norte (P. 5089)5089
          1971-05-14
          Acorumi Norte, North face,
          First ascent          		North face: Rolf Röcker & W. Weber
          North face
          North face. 1971-05-14First ascentRolf Röcker & W. Weber, 1971-05-14.
          Acorumi Central (P. 5063)5063
          1971-05-14
          Acorumi Central, SW ridge,
          First ascent          		SW ridge: Schwenkglenks
          SW ridge
          SW ridge. 1971-05-14First ascentSchwenkglenks, 1971-05-14.
          Acorumi Sur (P. 5060)5060
          1971-05-15
          Acorumi Sur, West ridge,
          First ascent          		West ridge: W. Hummel & Dietrich Fritz
          West ridge
          West ridge. 1971-05-15First ascentW. Hummel & Dietrich Fritz, 1971-05-15.

          Raria

          Raria West

          Raria Norte-9.8220-77.20735590
          1963-08-02
          Raria Norte, SE glacier,
          First ascent          		SE glacier: Domingos Giobbi, M. Angeles & D. Solano
          SE glacier (Vertiente S)
          SE glacier. Glacier, PD; 5-6h. 1963-08-02First ascentDomingos Giobbi, M. Angeles & D. Solano, 1963-08-02.
          Normal route. Easy ascent through SE glacier to col between Raria Norte and Sur (5200m). From there along south slopes to the summit.
          Raria Sur (Tantash)-9.8356-77.20995504
          1959-06-10
          Raria Sur, North ridge,
          First ascent          		North ridge: H. Gasser & D. Solano
          North ridge
          North ridge. PD/AD. 1959-06-10First ascentH. Gasser & D. Solano, 1959-06-10.
          route is the same as SE glacier on Raria Norte until col between Raria Norte and Sur.

          Waiaku

          Raria Este I (Huaiyacu)-9.8353-77.18835460
          1963-08-03
          Raria Este I, Arista SE,
          First ascent          		Arista SE: Eugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi
          SW side
          Arista SE. 1963-08-03First ascentEugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1963-08-03.
          From the glacier to col Raria Este I and II and along SE ridge to summit.
          Huarapasca (Waiaku)-9.8506-77.18885430
          1974-01-01
          Huarapasca, ,
          First ascent          		Party from
          1974-01-01
          Huarapasca, NW slopes,
          First ascent          		NW slopes:
          • Sharman pp.99
          NW side
          NW slopes. 30-45°; 4-6h. 1974-01-01Huarapasca, NW slopes, First ascent , 1974.
          Raria Este II (Raria Este Chico)5380
          SE of Raria Este I
          1963-08-04
          Raria Este II, North ridge,
          First ascent          		North ridge: Eugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi
          North side
          North ridge. 1963-08-04First ascentEugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1963-08-04.
          Huayllaco Oeste (P.5343, Ancosh)5343
          1974-07-13
          Huayllaco Oeste, North side,
          First ascent          		North side: T. Polakiewics
          North side
          North side. 1974-07-13First ascentT. Polakiewics, 1974-07-13.
          Gajap-9.8319-77.17535208
          Located to the east of Raria Este, at the NE end of Waiaky chain. South and East sides are well accessible from the road past Pastoruri.

          Caullaraju

          Huisco group

          Huisco (Huicsu, Wiksu Sur)-9.9196-77.21905487
          • Huisco (5487m-9.9196-77.2190)
          • Sur (5437m)
          Westrenmost main peak in Huisco group. The peaks has four main ridges: North(E) ridge to Santón, (S)East ridge connecting to Tucu. South ridge with Huicsu Sur towards Condorjitanca and (N)West ridge into quebrada Huicsu.
          1959-06-04
          Huisco, NE ridge,
          First ascent          		NE ridge: H. gasser, H. pattis & D. Solano
          1977-07-31
          Huisco, West face,
          First ascent          		West face: Fritz Niedermaier, Alfred Müller, Sepp Gloggner & Peter Gloggner
          West face
          Frames by West and South ridges and accessible from quebrada Huicsu, which can be gained from to road leading to Pastoruri few km before it.
          West face. Glacier, 40°; 1 day. 1977-07-31First ascentFritz Niedermaier, Alfred Müller, Sepp Gloggner & Peter Gloggner, 1977-07-31.
          NE ridge
          NE ridge. Glacier, F. 1959-06-04First ascentH. gasser, H. pattis & D. Solano, 1959-06-04.
          Condorjitanca5392
          • Condorjitanca (5392m)
          • Condorjitanca Chico (5360m-9.9408-77.2168)
          Located between Huicsu in the north and Caullaraju group (Quenuaracra) in the south.
          1963-07-25
          Condorjitanca, SE-NE traverse,
          First ascent          		SE-NE traverse: Eugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi
          1977-07-25
          Condorjitanca, SW ridge,
          First ascent          		SW ridge: Sepp Gloggner & Peter Gloggner
          SE side
          SE-NE traverse. 1963-07-25First ascentEugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1963-07-25.
          N face of Condorjitanca Chico, then SE ridge of Condorjitanca.
          SW ridge
          SW ridge. Snow, 50°; 1 day. 1977-07-25First ascentSepp Gloggner & Peter Gloggner, 1977-07-25.

          Caullaraju group

          Caullaraju Este (Qiwllarahu, Caullaraju)-9.9593-77.23345682
          Easternmost and the highest of Caullaraju peaks. The peaks has four ridges: NW ridge from Caullaraju Central, NE ridge from Quenuaracra, SE ridge from the road end in quebrada Qenua and SW ridge.
          1962-07-14
          Caullaraju Este, North face,
          First ascent          		North face: Domingos Giobbi, Eugenio Angeles & Macario Angeles
          1966-05-22
          Caullaraju Este, West side,
          First ascent          		West side: V. Angeles, D. Flores & R. Matsuda
          1977-07-30
          Caullaraju Este, NE ridge,
          First ascent          		NE ridge: Sepp Gloggner, Hans Gloggner & Peter Gloggner
          North face
          North face (Glacier sur y lado norte). PD. 1962-07-14First ascentDomingos Giobbi, Eugenio Angeles & Macario Angeles, 1962-07-14.
          NE ridge
          NE ridge. Rock, F; 40°; 1 day. 1977-07-30First ascentSepp Gloggner, Hans Gloggner & Peter Gloggner, 1977-07-30.
          West side
          West side. Rock, 1 day. 1966-05-22First ascentV. Angeles, D. Flores & R. Matsuda, 1966-05-22.
          • Sharman pp.100
          • Tomé pp.254#2
          Caullaraju Central (Nevado Brasil)-9.9524-77.24415636
          1900-01-01
          Caullaraju Central, E. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles variation,
          Event          		 E. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles variation: E. Chrobak & R. Gutkowski
          NW side
          NW glacier (North slopes, Pendientes N). Snow, F. 1961-07-20First ascentE. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles, 1961-07-20.1973-07-08First ascentvariation: E. Chrobak & R. Gutkowski, 1973-07-08.
          Caullaraju Oeste II (Cruz de Plata)5603
          1959-06-21
          Caullaraju Oeste II, Vertiente NO,
          First ascent          		Vertiente NO: Hannes Gasser, K. Kelplinger, H. Pattis & V. Staudacher
          North side
          Vertiente NO. AD/D. 1959-06-21First ascentHannes Gasser, K. Kelplinger, H. Pattis & V. Staudacher, 1959-06-21.
          • Tomé pp.255#1
          • Sharmann pp.101
          Caullaraju Oeste I (Shumagraju, Shumacraju)-9.9661-77.26135582
          1961-07-20
          Caullaraju Oeste I, Pendientes N,
          First ascent          		Pendientes N: E. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles
          North side
          Pendientes N. 1961-07-20First ascentE. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles, 1961-07-20.
          Traverse from Caullaraju Central.
          Caullaraju Oeste III (Nevado Vinci)5500
          West of Cruz del Plata.
          1952-03-03
          Caullaraju Oeste III, Vertiente NO,
          First ascent          		Vertiente NO: F. Anzio, G. Verganni & A. Vinci
          1962-07-19
          Caullaraju Oeste III, South glacier,
          First ascent          		South glacier: E. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles
          North side
          Vertiente NO. 1952-03-03First ascentF. Anzio, G. Verganni & A. Vinci, 1952-03-03.
          South glacier
          South glacier. 1962-07-19First ascentE. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles, 1962-07-19.
          Caullaraju Oeste IV (Carioca)5460
          1962-07-19
          Caullaraju Oeste IV, South glacier,
          First ascent          		South glacier: E. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles
          South glacier
          South glacier. 1962-07-19First ascentE. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles, 1962-07-19.
          Caullaraju Norte-9.9483-77.25595420
          1960-07-15
          Caullaraju Norte, West ridge,
          First ascent          		West ridge: Domingos Giobbi & E. Angeles
          1973-07-09
          Caullaraju Norte, North slopes,
          First ascent          		North slopes: E. Chrobak & R. Gutkowski
          North side
          North slopes. Snow, 1973-07-09First ascentE. Chrobak & R. Gutkowski, 1973-07-09.
          SW side
          • Tomé pp.254#1
          West side
          West ridge. 1960-07-15First ascentDomingos Giobbi & E. Angeles, 1960-07-15.
          Quenuaracra (P.5353)-9.9524-77.22485353
          Located to the south of Condorjitanca-Quanuaracra col separating Huicsu and Caullaraju groups. SW ridge connects the peak with Caullaraju Este.
          1962-07-12
          Quenuaracra, South face,
          First ascent          		South face: Domingos Giobbi & Eugenio Angeles
          1977-07-25
          Quenuaracra, North face,
          First ascent          		North face: Sepp Gloggner
          North face
          North face. Snow, 40°; 1 day. 1977-07-25First ascentSepp Gloggner, 1977-07-25.
          South face
          South face. 1962-07-12First ascentDomingos Giobbi & Eugenio Angeles, 1962-07-12.
          Queñuaracra Chico (P.5147)-9.9675-77.20535147
          Located on SE ridge of Queñuaracra where it turn SW towards Quenua.
          1962-07-16
          Queñuaracra Chico, NW side,
          First ascent          		NW side: M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi
          1967-07-01
          Queñuaracra Chico, SW side,
          First ascent          		SW side: O. Gambini, P. Morales & M. Sotomayor
          NW side
          NW side. 1962-07-16First ascentM. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1962-07-16.
          SW side
          SW side. 1967-07-01First ascentO. Gambini, P. Morales & M. Sotomayor, 1967-07.

          Tuco-Rajutuna

          Tuco

          Tuco-9.9241-77.19895487
          • Tuco (5479m)
          • Wiksu (Tuku Oeste) (5487m-9.9241-77.1989)
          Central of the three main peaks above quebrada Pastoruri, connected by West ridge to Huicsu and SW ridge to Pastoruri. Access to NW face is very short from the road in quebrada Pastoruri.
          1963-07-23
          Tuco, NW slopes,
          First ascent          		NW slopes: Eugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi
          NW slopes
          NW slopes. Glacier, PD; 60°. 1963-07-23First ascentEugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1963-07-23.
          Pastoruri-9.9190-77.17935240
          Pastoruri is popular tourist attraction as regular bus service goes to quebrada Pastoruri very close to the peak on its north side. Ascent from there is shirt and easy glacier climb, thus making it well suited as acclimatization peak.
          North face
          North face. Snow, I F; 250m.
          • Biggar 2005 pp.91

          Rajutuna

          Rajutuna (Raju Cutac)-10.0095-77.17595360
          1963-10-02
          Rajutuna, West slopes,
          First ascent          		West slopes: A. Gruft, H. Gruft & E. Henostroza
          West side
          West slopes. Snow, 1 day. 1963-10-02First ascentA. Gruft, H. Gruft & E. Henostroza, 1963-10-02.
          Rajutuna Norte (Paulista)5349
          1959-12-26
          Rajutuna Norte, NW slopes & North face,
          First ascent          		NW slopes & North face: Domingos Giobbi & Eugenio Angeles
          North side
          NW slopes & North face. 1959-12-26First ascentDomingos Giobbi & Eugenio Angeles, 1959-12-26.
          • Sharman pp.101
          Rajutuna Suroeste5137
          1957-05-28
          Rajutuna Suroeste, ,
          First ascent          		Party from
          1957-05-28
          Rajutuna Suroeste, North slopes,
          First ascent          		North slopes:
          North side
          North slopes. 1957-05-28Rajutuna Suroeste, North slopes, First ascent , 1957-05-28.
          • Sharman pp.102
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