Cordillera Blanca

  • Northern Cordillera Blanca Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located due north of Llanganuca valley (road from Yungay to Yanama). Champará and Milluacocha are smaller groups located furthest to the north. Main groups of the norther area are Santa Cruz and Houandoy, both of which have several peaks rising to around 6000m. Most visited area is Santa Cruz valley between Santa Cruz group in the north and Huandou group in the south. The valley is also very popular among trekkers. Probably best known climbs are Alpamayo and Quitaraju in Santa Cruz group and Artesonraju, Pisco and Huandoy peaks in Huandoy group.
  • Central Cordillera Blanca Central part lies between quebrada Llanganuco in the north (road from Yungay to Yanama) and quebrada Honda in south. The area has four main groups, Huascaran, Contrahierbas, Copa and Perlilla. By far the best known and most visited among climbers of these groups is Huascaran with Huascaran Sur (6769m) being the highest peak in Cordillera Blanca and 7th highest peak in the Andes. Easier Chopicalqui is also a popular peak. The other peaks further south are far less visited, despite Hualcan and Copa rising to above 6000m mark.
  • Southern Cordillera Blanca Southern part of the range consists of several massifs and valleys located to the south of Quebrada Honda, close to city of Huaraz. Two main groups of the area are Chinchey and Huantsan with both having several peaks rising above 6000m altitude. Close proximity to Huaraz make the areas relatively popular, particularly Ishinca valley is very popular. There are number of popular peaks from the valley, particularly Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca. On the other hand, Palcaraju, Chinchey and Huantsan are among the least visited 6000m peaks in the range. Southernmost ranges Yanamaray, Pongas, Raria and Caullaraju are lower and far less glaciated. Most of the peaks in these areas have non-technical ascents that can climbed as day trips from the valleys.

Northern Cordillera Blanca

Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located due north of Llanganuca valley (road from Yungay to Yanama). Champará and Milluacocha are smaller groups located furthest to the north. Main groups of the norther area are Santa Cruz and Houandoy, both of which have several peaks rising to around 6000m. Most visited area is Santa Cruz valley between Santa Cruz group in the north and Huandou group in the south. The valley is also very popular among trekkers. Probably best known climbs are Alpamayo and Quitaraju in Santa Cruz group and Artesonraju, Pisco and Huandoy peaks in Huandoy group.

  • Champará Isolated massif located to the north of quebrada Alpamayo and Santa Cruz massif. Very seldom visited. Access is easiest from Quitaracsa located to the south of the massif.
  • Milluacocha Located between Champará in the north and Santa Cruz in the south. Southern side of the massif is accessed from quebrada Alpamayo and north side from Quitaracsa (3300m).
  • Santa Cruz Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located north of Santa Cruz Valley (Quebrada Santa Cruz). Northern border is Quebrada de los Cedros. Here lies picturesque Alpamayo (5947m) that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world. Together with neighboring Quitaraju (6036m) Alpamayo is the most popular climb in northern Cordillera Blanca. Other famous mountains include the namesake of the group, Santa Cruz Grande (6241m) and Taulliraju (5830m), located at the end of the Santa Cruz Valley.
  • Huandoy Group Huandoy group is located between Santa Cruz Valley in the north and Quebrada Llanganuco in the south. The highest peak of the area is Huandoy (6395m). However, the most popular climb of the area are Pisco and the beautiful pyramid Artesonraju (6025). Other important peaks for the climbers include Chacraraju, la Esfinge and Piramid de Carcilaso.

Champará

Isolated massif located to the north of quebrada Alpamayo and Santa Cruz massif. Very seldom visited. Access is easiest from Quitaracsa located to the south of the massif.

  • San Julián
  • Champará

Milluacocha

Located between Champará in the north and Santa Cruz in the south. Southern side of the massif is accessed from quebrada Alpamayo and north side from Quitaracsa (3300m).

  • Milluacocha Grouop of five peaks to the north of quebrada Alpamayo and Santa Cruz group. The peaks are located on west to east ridge with the main peaks in the middle.
  • Pilanco Located between Tayapampa (SE) and Milluacocha (NW). Gara Gara pass separates Pilanco from Tayapampa. Three main summits are located on N-S ridge.

Santa Cruz

Northermost part of Cordillera Blanca is located north of Santa Cruz Valley (Quebrada Santa Cruz). Northern border is Quebrada de los Cedros. Here lies picturesque Alpamayo (5947m) that is often called the most beautiful mountain in the world. Together with neighboring Quitaraju (6036m) Alpamayo is the most popular climb in northern Cordillera Blanca. Other famous mountains include the namesake of the group, Santa Cruz Grande (6241m) and Taulliraju (5830m), located at the end of the Santa Cruz Valley.

Santa Cruz - Peak 5582 - Abasraju (5785m) - Quitaraju - Alpamayo - Jancarurish (5601m) - Rinrijirca (6039m) - Pucajirca (6046m) - Taulliraju - Punta Union (4760m).

  • Santa Cruz
  • Quitaraju Most visited climbs from quebrada Santa Cruz are SW face of Alpamayo and North side of Quitaraju. Neither is non-technical both not excessively difficult either. Both climbs are one day climbs from Alpamayo-Quitaraju col camp.
  • Pucajircas Pucajircas - Taulliraju - Punta Union pass

Pucajircas

Pucajircas - Taulliraju - Punta Union pass

  • Pucarashta Lesser snow peak located between Alpamayo and Pucajirca Sur. Pucarashta is a chain of three summits running in West-east direction. East summit is the highest.
  • Pucajirca Northernmost 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca. Marks the eastern end of Santa Cruz group. Long N-S chain of peaks located to the east of Alpamayo. Quiet peaks with few climbers. All climbs difficult (D-TD). Only recorded ascent on Pucajirca Norte is North Ridge. Central and south peaks are climbed more frequently, usually from Taullicocha in Quebrada Santa Cruz (D-TD).
  • Taulliraju group "flower of ice", a very beautiful mountain located above the Punta Union Pass (4750m) at the end of Quebrada Santa Cruz. Can be considered a subsidiary summit of Pucajirca.
Taulliraju group

"flower of ice", a very beautiful mountain located above the Punta Union Pass (4750m) at the end of Quebrada Santa Cruz. Can be considered a subsidiary summit of Pucajirca.

Although it is located right next to a popular trekking route, is seldom climbed because all routes are difficult. Climbed usually from Quebrada Santa Cruz side with Base camp at 4500m via SW Face (several hard mixed routes, TD-ED). Few routes on North Face are slightly easier than SW face, but still plenty hard for most (TD).

Huandoy Group

Huandoy group is located between Santa Cruz Valley in the north and Quebrada Llanganuco in the south. The highest peak of the area is Huandoy (6395m). However, the most popular climb of the area are Pisco and the beautiful pyramid Artesonraju (6025). Other important peaks for the climbers include Chacraraju, la Esfinge and Piramid de Carcilaso.

  • Huandoy North
  • Huandoy Central
  • Huandoy group The highest peak in Cordillera Blanca after the two Huascaráns (tie with Huantsan). Large massif with four main summits and no non-technical route to any of the summits. Furthermore, none of the routes is objectively very safe. Theree highest Huandoys are clustered around high plateau (~5800m) from which all three of them can be climbed. The most striking feature of the Huandoys is gigantic South face oh Huandoy Sur. It is a vertical to overhanging rock face of Yosemite proportions. Other aspects of Huandoys are a lot icier but usually involve some mixed climbing as well.

Huandoy North

  • La Esfinge
  • Aguja group West-East chain located on the northern side of quebrada Paron located between La Esfinge and Putaca in the West and Caraz group in the East. Only handful of routes, all quite technical. Aguja I and II are prominent pointy peaks, Chica and III much less so. South faces of Aguja peaks form and impressive cirque featuring ice and mixed ground.
  • Caraz group West-East chain located to the north of laguna Paron between Aguja group in the west and Artesonraju in the East. Few routes on all peaks, all of them technical. The highest peak Caraz I is also technically the easiest. However, the easiest routes involve climbing to glacier plateau between Caraz I and II which is very chaotic. Naming is somewhat misleading as Caraz II is sometimes referred to as Caraz Este, although Centro would be geographically more correct.
  • Artesonraju
  • Piramide group Millishraju - Paria - Piramide
Piramide group

Millishraju - Paria - Piramide

  • Millishraju group
  • Paria group Paria is not too prominent peak in itself, a fact that is underlined by its position between its flashy neighbours; Artesonraju in the north and Piramide de Garcilaso in the south. Paron is one of the easier objectives available from Paron valley and thus could bee used for acclimatization purposes. Towards Paron valley the peaks is completely covered in snow and ice. From this side the main difficulty is without a doubt route finding through seracs and crevasses. From the north side (quebrada Santa Cruz) the peak looks a lot pointier and rockier.
  • Piramide group Classic fluted pyramid-shaped peak rising above laguna Paron between Artesonraju and Paron in the north and Chacraraju in the south. Quite possibly the most stunning peak in quebrada Paron despite there being higher and more famous peaks around. No easy routes. Mostly climbed either SW and NW faces. Additionally West ridge separating the two has been climbed. Long NE ridge rising from the col between Paron (Sur) and Piramnide has been climbed to summit of Piramide Norte (minor peaks along the ridge), but the double corniced ridge from there to main summit remains to be climbed. No climbs are known to exist from the east side.
  • Biggar 2005 pp.65-6

Huandoy Central

  • Yanapaccha group
  • Chacraraju group Very difficult mountain, considered to be the most difficult 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca. The two summits are connected with knife edge and often heavily corniced ridge. Lower Este is considered somewhat less difficult than Oeste.
  • Pisco group
Yanapaccha group
  • Biggar 2005 pp.71
Pisco group

Group of peaks named after famous liquer. Reasonably short access, non-technical routes and moderate altitude by Cordillera Blanca standards make Pisco peaks some of the most popular in the range. Este is slightly higher but lower Oeste is more frequented.

Huandoy group

The highest peak in Cordillera Blanca after the two Huascaráns (tie with Huantsan). Large massif with four main summits and no non-technical route to any of the summits. Furthermore, none of the routes is objectively very safe. Theree highest Huandoys are clustered around high plateau (~5800m) from which all three of them can be climbed. The most striking feature of the Huandoys is gigantic South face oh Huandoy Sur. It is a vertical to overhanging rock face of Yosemite proportions. Other aspects of Huandoys are a lot icier but usually involve some mixed climbing as well.

  • Radehose pp.95

Central Cordillera Blanca

Central part lies between quebrada Llanganuco in the north (road from Yungay to Yanama) and quebrada Honda in south. The area has four main groups, Huascaran, Contrahierbas, Copa and Perlilla. By far the best known and most visited among climbers of these groups is Huascaran with Huascaran Sur (6769m) being the highest peak in Cordillera Blanca and 7th highest peak in the Andes. Easier Chopicalqui is also a popular peak. The other peaks further south are far less visited, despite Hualcan and Copa rising to above 6000m mark.

  • Huascaran group South of Huandoy group, between Quebrada Llanganuco in the north and Quebrada Ulta in the south lies somewhat isolated Huascaran (6769m), the highest peak of the range. Huascaran Sur (6769m) is the 7th highest peak in the Andes. Huascaran totally dominates the area, although Chopicalqui rises to impressive 6345m.
  • Copa group Copa group is located to the south of Huascaran massif. Despite the group having four peaks rising above 6000m with routes that are not too technical and not too remote it is not particularly often visited. That being said, the area is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering. Very difficult Ulta located in the northern part of the group is probably most famous peak in the group as there are several difficult mixed climbs on the NW face climbed during the 2000's and published in climbing magazines and websites.
  • Perlilla group Perlilla massif consists of Nevado Perlilla and Copap group. They are a group of ~5500 summits rising in a bowl-like formation around broad plateau at ca. 5200m. Most routes are one-day glacier ascents from the plateau in a day and are in the lower grades (F-AD). Approach from Quebrada Honda or Vicos via Portachuelo de Honda.

Huascaran group

South of Huandoy group, between Quebrada Llanganuco in the north and Quebrada Ulta in the south lies somewhat isolated Huascaran (6769m), the highest peak of the range. Huascaran Sur (6769m) is the 7th highest peak in the Andes. Huascaran totally dominates the area, although Chopicalqui rises to impressive 6345m.

  • Huascarans Highest mountain of Peru and Cordillera Blanca. The name 'Huascaran' means literally 'purple'. Indian legends however, refer to Huascar, a local prince executed on the spot where the mountain now stands. Normal routes on both peaks ascends from west to Garganta (6010m), the high pass between the peaks. Lower Norte is more important climbing goal than higher Sur if technically difficult climbing is your cup of tea. Sur is rarely climbed on anything else than Garganta route. There are several hard routes (TD or more) on NE and E faces of Huascaran Sur and especially on the north face of Huascaran Norte.
  • Chopicalqui
  • World Mountaineering pp144-7
  • Radehose pp.102

Copa group

Copa group is located to the south of Huascaran massif. Despite the group having four peaks rising above 6000m with routes that are not too technical and not too remote it is not particularly often visited. That being said, the area is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering. Very difficult Ulta located in the northern part of the group is probably most famous peak in the group as there are several difficult mixed climbs on the NW face climbed during the 2000's and published in climbing magazines and websites.

  • Conrahierbas group Contrahierbas group is located to the east of Huascaran group. The namesake is the peak and the only one rising to above 6000m. The group is very little explored with only few routes listed on any of the guidebooks and none of them highly frequented or otherwise famous.
  • Ulta
  • Hualcan Together with nearby Copa, Hualcan forms a large glacier plateau which is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering.
  • Copa One of the easiest 6000m peaks in Cordillera Blanca. Despite of this nowhere near as frequented and Huascarán or Chopicalqui.
  • Paccharaju Located to the east of Copa and easily accessible from the road running through quebrada Honda.

Conrahierbas group

Contrahierbas group is located to the east of Huascaran group. The namesake is the peak and the only one rising to above 6000m. The group is very little explored with only few routes listed on any of the guidebooks and none of them highly frequented or otherwise famous.

  • Conrahierbas
  • Cajavilca Group of three little known peaks north of Conrahierbas and P.5960. The highest peaks is southermost one, separated by shallow col between it and P.5690. All three have non-technical normal routes from quebrada Ichik/Ulta on the NW side.
Cajavilca

Group of three little known peaks north of Conrahierbas and P.5960. The highest peaks is southermost one, separated by shallow col between it and P.5690. All three have non-technical normal routes from quebrada Ichik/Ulta on the NW side.

  • New places, new faces in the Cordillera Blanca. Although the mountains north and east of Huaraz must rank as some of the most frequented in South America, Peru's Cordillera Blanca still holds many secrets. Tony Barton from the UK, on his sixth trip to Peru, recently climbed two new routes in rarely visited areas. With John Pearson, a current Huaraz resident, he traveled to the jungle side of the range and from there approached the Contrahierbas Massif from the northeast. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2007-09-27.

Hualcan

Together with nearby Copa, Hualcan forms a large glacier plateau which is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering.

  • Kiendler pp.68-9
  • Sharman pp.66

Copa

One of the easiest 6000m peaks in Cordillera Blanca. Despite of this nowhere near as frequented and Huascarán or Chopicalqui.

  • Kiendler pp.69-70
  • Biggar 2005 pp.78

Perlilla group

Perlilla massif consists of Nevado Perlilla and Copap group. They are a group of ~5500 summits rising in a bowl-like formation around broad plateau at ca. 5200m. Most routes are one-day glacier ascents from the plateau in a day and are in the lower grades (F-AD). Approach from Quebrada Honda or Vicos via Portachuelo de Honda.

  • Copap group
  • Perlilla group

Southern Cordillera Blanca

Southern part of the range consists of several massifs and valleys located to the south of Quebrada Honda, close to city of Huaraz. Two main groups of the area are Chinchey and Huantsan with both having several peaks rising above 6000m altitude. Close proximity to Huaraz make the areas relatively popular, particularly Ishinca valley is very popular. There are number of popular peaks from the valley, particularly Urus, Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca. On the other hand, Palcaraju, Chinchey and Huantsan are among the least visited 6000m peaks in the range. Southernmost ranges Yanamaray, Pongas, Raria and Caullaraju are lower and far less glaciated. Most of the peaks in these areas have non-technical ascents that can climbed as day trips from the valleys.

Southernmost part of Cordillera Blanca consists of few groups with lower peaks and no large glaciers. Most of the ascents here are not too difficult and possible as day trips from the valleys. Pucaraju South face aside, few technical routes exists. That said, most of the peaks have been climbed quite a while a ago and mostly only from one or two valleys, therefore there could very well be lots of room for new routing. Busses to Punta Cahuish and Pastoruri make accessing these areas easy.

No guidebook that I am aware of covers these areas in much detail. To make matters more confusing, maps and information available in guidebooks and AAJ reports don't readily match except for the main peaks. That being said, most of the peaks have been climbed in the 1960's, not least because of systematic exploration by Domingos Giobbi.

  • Chinchey group South of Huascaran, separated by it by Quebrada Ulta valley, lies Chinchey group. Northern part of the group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is propably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha). Southern part of Chinchey located between Quebrada Honda in north and Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cyaesh in the south is far more popular with several famous peaks including Tocllaraju (6032m), Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Ranrapalca (6162m). It is also easily accessible due to close proximity to the Huaraz. Several long ridges and four major faces. NW Ridge falls from Oeste to col (5530m) between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju and SW Ridge falls from Oeste to col between Palcaraju and Ishinca. Highest peak of the extensive Chinchey massif. Despite its status as the highest peak of the group, it is not nearly as popular climbs Ishinca, Vallunaraju, Tocllaraju or Ranrapalca.
  • Huantsan group Huantsan group is located very close to Huaraz, slightly to the SE. It lies to the south Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cayesh. Although the highest peak of the group Huantsan (6369m), is located close to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is due to its difficulty, it is considered to be the hardest big peak after Chacraraju. Maparaju (5326m) and San Juan (5843m), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents.
  • Yanamarey group Somewhat further south from quebrada Rurec, separated from the main group lies Yanamarey valley with the large lake of Querococha (3980m). It is accessed from Catac along the road to Chavin by Querococha. Approach to some climbs is shorter from by the Punta Cahuish tunnel. The valley offers good acclimatization climbs of Yanamaray Norte (5237m) and Sur (5197). Also SE side Pucaraju (5322m) is possible from the valley (not to be confused with higher peak with the same name located in northern Cordillera Blanca). Contrary to most other peaks in this area, Pucaraju South face has several ice and mixed routes around 350m high and around TD in difficulty.
  • Pongas group Cluster of peaks to the south of Olleros-Chavin road. Routes are generally easy and doable within a day from the valley. The group consists of Northern and southern massifs. Names, heights and locations of the peaks are highly confusing, as several of the peaks mentioned in various guidebooks and AAJ can not be found on DAV maps and also the altitudes on unnamed peaks on the map don't readily match those mentioned on guidebooks and AAJ articles. Usual approach is from Catac.
  • Raria group Raria is a compact group of lower peaks between Pongos group in the north and Caullaraju group in the south. Frequent tourist bus service to Pastoruri to the south of the group makes access easy. That combined with easy routes makes the area well suited for acclimatization purposes. Main peaks of the group are Raria Norte and Sur, which some some distance apart separated by snow saddle at 5200m. Huarapasca (5430m), Raria Este I (5418m) and Gajap (5208) are the main peaks in the SE part of the group. Particularly the latter three are located very close to Pastoruri road.
  • Caullaraju group Caullaraju group is the first group of peaks one sees when driving from Lima to Huaraz via Conococha pass (4100m). The groups is the southernmost group of Cordillera Blanca, due south of Raria group and west of Cordillera Huallanca. Approach from the road to Pastoruri to the north of the group (short distance from the road from Lima to Huaraz). Routes are generally easy and doable in a day. SW part of Caullaraju group consists of Caullaraju peaks, a fairly complex group with three main summit areas, Oeste, Central and Este, each with multiple summits. From Caullaraju Este another ridge leads first NE to Quenuaracra, then turns south forming a loop around the valley. Oeste peaks are somewhat lower than Este and central but steeper and more difficult (estimated AD/D by Biggar but with no more detailed info).

Chinchey group

South of Huascaran, separated by it by Quebrada Ulta valley, lies Chinchey group. Northern part of the group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is propably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha). Southern part of Chinchey located between Quebrada Honda in north and Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cyaesh in the south is far more popular with several famous peaks including Tocllaraju (6032m), Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Ranrapalca (6162m). It is also easily accessible due to close proximity to the Huaraz.

  • Tocllaraju group
  • Chinchey group
  • Ranrapalca group
  • Churup group A long ridge stretches SW from Pucaranra separating Quebrada Cojup (northwest) and Quebrada Quilcayhuanca ( southeast). The ridge runs around 13 culminating at Churup, the SW face of which is well visible from Huaraz. The ridge drops almost 1000m from Pucaranra to Pucaranra-Jatunmontepuncu pass (5200m) before Huapi (Jatunmontepuncu) being the first summit on the ridge.

Tocllaraju group

  • Hatun Ulloc
  • Urus group Urus peaks is a group located SW of Tocllaraju forming the northern bank of quebrada Ishinca. The highest pea of the group is Central, but by far most visited is Este. Infact, Este is one of the most commonly climbed peaks in Cordillera Blanca being close to Ishinca Base Camp and not too technical. Aside of the Este, all other Urus peaks have non-technical normal routes. Those aside, only few technical routes have been climbed, but there's plenty of room for more.
  • Tocllaraju group
  • Akillpo group

Chinchey group

  • Palcaraju group Several long ridges and four major faces. NW Ridge falls from Oeste to col (5530m) between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju and SW Ridge falls from Oeste to col between Palcaraju and Ishinca.
  • Chinchey group South of Huascaran, separated by it by Quebrada Ulta valley, lies Chinchey group. Northern part of the group lies between Quebrada Ulta in the north and Quebrada Honda in the south. Northern Chinchey has series of less famous peaks like Hualcan (6112m), Copa Norte (6173m) and Sur (6198m), Pagcharga (5731m) and Nevado Contrahierbas (5945m). West Face of Copa Sur (normal route) is propably the best known climb of the area (PD, from laguna Lejicocha). Southern part of Chinchey located between Quebrada Honda in north and Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cyaesh in the south is far more popular with several famous peaks including Tocllaraju (6032m), Urus (5495m), Ishinca (5530m) and Ranrapalca (6162m). It is also easily accessible due to close proximity to the Huaraz. Several long ridges and four major faces. NW Ridge falls from Oeste to col (5530m) between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju and SW Ridge falls from Oeste to col between Palcaraju and Ishinca. Highest peak of the extensive Chinchey massif. Despite its status as the highest peak of the group, it is not nearly as popular climbs Ishinca, Vallunaraju, Tocllaraju or Ranrapalca.
  • Chopiraju group Located immediately NW of Cayesh.
  • Cayesh group
Palcaraju group

Several long ridges and four major faces. NW Ridge falls from Oeste to col (5530m) between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju and SW Ridge falls from Oeste to col between Palcaraju and Ishinca.

  • Kiendler pp.75-6
Chinchey group

Highest peak of the extensive Chinchey massif. Despite its status as the highest peak of the group, it is not nearly as popular climbs Ishinca, Vallunaraju, Tocllaraju or Ranrapalca.

Ranrapalca group

  • Ranrapalca
  • Ochsapalca
Ochsapalca group
  • Ochsapalca
  • Yanguaraju A group of three peaks on the west ridge of Ochsapalca.
  • Vallunaraju

Huantsan group

Huantsan group is located very close to Huaraz, slightly to the SE. It lies to the south Quebradas Quilcayhuanca and Cayesh. Although the highest peak of the group Huantsan (6369m), is located close to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is due to its difficulty, it is considered to be the hardest big peak after Chacraraju. Maparaju (5326m) and San Juan (5843m), located in northern part of Huantsan massif are relatively popular as acclimatizations ascents.

Division of Chinchey and Huantsan group is not very clearcut, as some sources consider the speaks south of Chinchey (Tullparaju, Chopiraju, Cayesh, Milpocraju and Maparaju) to belong to Huantsan massif.

  • San Juan group Northernmost peaks in Huantsan group. The groups consists of San Juan located on Cordillera Blanca main ridge and Quimarumi on the side ridge towards SW from it. This side ridge separates quebrada Cuilcayhuanca in the north and Shallap in the south.
  • Huamashraju group West-East chain that joins Cordillera Blanca main chain at Huantsan Norte. West side of Huamashraju has several rock routes as well as not too technical normal route. Normal route is well suited as acclimatization goal, however it is far less frequented than Urus, Ishinca or Pisco.
  • Huantsan group The summit lies just 21 km east of downtown Huaraz. Despite its close proximity to Huaraz, it is one of the least climbed 6000m peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. This is largely due to its difficulty, it is the second most difficult 6000m peak in the Cordillera Blanca (after Chacraraju). All climbs are long, committing and difficult. The group consists of four main summits: Norte, Main, Oeste and Sur, all located on Cordillera Blanca main ridge between San Juan and Tumarinaraju in the North and Rurec in the south. In the north prominent foresummit of P5969 is where North ridge (Huantsan Norte-Tumarinaraju col), East ridge, SE Ridge (Huantsan), SW ridge and NW ridge (Huamaspunta and Huamashraju) meet. From there the ridge runs to Huantsan main. Oeste is located very close to main. From there South ridge drops first to Huantsan Sur, then to Huantsan-Rurec col.
  • Cashan group Group in SW part of Huantsan massif, west of Rurec peaks. The group has three main peaks, Cashan Oeste and Este and Shagsha. Two Cashan peaks form a horseshoe around quebrada Cashan together with Shaqsha (Shacsha, Huantsan Chico). Seldom climbed rather technical peaks in the southern part of Cordillera Blanca.
  • Rurec group Rurec group is the southernmost group in Cordillera Blanca with extensive glaciation. The group consists on north-south ridge south of Huantsan Sur and ridge system west of Uruashraju. Rurec Oeste I and II are of the main ridge on the ridge that further becomes Cashan group.

Rurec group

Rurec group is the southernmost group in Cordillera Blanca with extensive glaciation. The group consists on north-south ridge south of Huantsan Sur and ridge system west of Uruashraju. Rurec Oeste I and II are of the main ridge on the ridge that further becomes Cashan group.

Main peaks of the group include Rurec Oeste I and II on the Cashan ridge, Rurec Principal, Rurec Sur peaks, Uruashraju and Tuctopunta on the main ridge and Pumahuacabca on the SW side branch. None of the highest peaks are very well known of frequented. Rurec peaks see some traffic as they have non-technical routes suitable as acclimatization climbs. More difficult Uruashraju and Pumahuacancaare very seldom climbed. Rurec Peaks are not merely a single mountain, as the peaks lie quite a distance apart.

Besides the high peaks, the lower reaches of the group, Pumahuacanca group in particular, feature several rocky summits and spires with steep rock faces. These walls feature Yosemite-like huge rock climbs on reputedly good granite, only somewhat bigger.

  • Rurec north
  • Rurec sur Rurec Sur peaks are a cluster of minor peaks between Rurec Principal in the north and Uruashraju in the south. Climbs from quebrada Rurec (west) are easily acclimatization climbs. East side from quebrada Alhuina appears to be far steeper but no climbs have been recorded from that side.
  • Cerro Pumahuacanca Cerro Pumahuacanca consists of ridge system SW from Uruashraju forming the eastern bank of the lower quebrada Rurec. Main peak is Pumahuacanca (Cerro Arhuay). There are also several other mountains and numerous summits as well as short ridges. Many of these feature steep and compact rock faces offering a lot of room for big rock routes. Most famous of these features is Punta Numa, with several very difficult rock routes. Some confusion and discrepancies are apparent to naming, altitude and location on those peaks.
Cerro Pumahuacanca

Cerro Pumahuacanca consists of ridge system SW from Uruashraju forming the eastern bank of the lower quebrada Rurec. Main peak is Pumahuacanca (Cerro Arhuay). There are also several other mountains and numerous summits as well as short ridges. Many of these feature steep and compact rock faces offering a lot of room for big rock routes. Most famous of these features is Punta Numa, with several very difficult rock routes. Some confusion and discrepancies are apparent to naming, altitude and location on those peaks.

Pumahuagangan group are the southermost main peaks of Pumahuacanca group. The main summit is hardly climbed, however, the rock faces on the lower reaches have several high end rock routes.

Yanamarey group

Somewhat further south from quebrada Rurec, separated from the main group lies Yanamarey valley with the large lake of Querococha (3980m). It is accessed from Catac along the road to Chavin by Querococha. Approach to some climbs is shorter from by the Punta Cahuish tunnel. The valley offers good acclimatization climbs of Yanamaray Norte (5237m) and Sur (5197). Also SE side Pucaraju (5322m) is possible from the valley (not to be confused with higher peak with the same name located in northern Cordillera Blanca). Contrary to most other peaks in this area, Pucaraju South face has several ice and mixed routes around 350m high and around TD in difficulty.

Yanamarey peaks are located in NW-SE ridge north of Punta Cahuish and East of Pucarahu. Higher Norte is located at the SW-NE chain, the the western end of which rises Pucaraju. The peaks are climbed usually from quebrada Yanamarey, which is accessed from Queropacha along thee road leading to Punta Cahuish. Sur can also be approached from Punta Cahuish. Both Yanamarey peaks are easy climbs making them well suited as acclimatization peaks.

  • Yanamarey group
  • Pucaraju group Long ridge SW of Yanamarey Norte that branches off into two forks at mid-way. Northern fork culminates in P-5145 and the southern one at Pucaraju, the most famous climbing destination in the entire Yanamarey group. The ridge certainly has several other summits but none appear to be very prominent or named on DAV map.

Pongas group

Cluster of peaks to the south of Olleros-Chavin road. Routes are generally easy and doable within a day from the valley. The group consists of Northern and southern massifs. Names, heights and locations of the peaks are highly confusing, as several of the peaks mentioned in various guidebooks and AAJ can not be found on DAV maps and also the altitudes on unnamed peaks on the map don't readily match those mentioned on guidebooks and AAJ articles. Usual approach is from Catac.

  • Pongas norte
  • Pongas sur SW-NE ridge between quebrada Queshque in NW and quebrada Raria in SE. Main peaks are located in the central part of the ridge. Besides of the main peak Pongas Sur (Mururaju) and its tribunaries, the ridge has several low 5000ers on either side of it. NW side is not as steep as the SE side. Several other peaks on the ridge have been climbed but not graded. However, they are mostly glacier free and presumed easy.

Raria group

Raria is a compact group of lower peaks between Pongos group in the north and Caullaraju group in the south. Frequent tourist bus service to Pastoruri to the south of the group makes access easy. That combined with easy routes makes the area well suited for acclimatization purposes. Main peaks of the group are Raria Norte and Sur, which some some distance apart separated by snow saddle at 5200m. Huarapasca (5430m), Raria Este I (5418m) and Gajap (5208) are the main peaks in the SE part of the group. Particularly the latter three are located very close to Pastoruri road.

  • Raria West
  • Waiaku Waiaku massif forms the eastern part of Raria massif. It forms NE-SW ridge with Gajap (5208m), Raria Este I (5460m), Raria Este II (5380m), Huarapasca (5430m) and Huayllaco Oeste (5343m).

Caullaraju group

Caullaraju group is the first group of peaks one sees when driving from Lima to Huaraz via Conococha pass (4100m). The groups is the southernmost group of Cordillera Blanca, due south of Raria group and west of Cordillera Huallanca. Approach from the road to Pastoruri to the north of the group (short distance from the road from Lima to Huaraz). Routes are generally easy and doable in a day.

SW part of Caullaraju group consists of Caullaraju peaks, It is fairly complex group with three main summit areas, Oeste, Central and Este, each with multiple summits. The highest peaks id Caullaraju massif are located here culminating at Caullaraju Este. Huisco, Tucu and Pastoruri in NE part of the massif lie close to Pastoruri road making them very accessible. From there long ridge system runs due south containing Rajutuna peaks.

  • Huisco group Located north of Caullaraju groups lies north south ridge with San Anton (5238m), Huisco (5487m), Huisco Sur (5437m) and Condorjitanca (5392m).
  • Caullaraju group Caullaraju group is the first group of peaks one sees when driving from Lima to Huaraz via Conococha pass (4100m). The groups is the southernmost group of Cordillera Blanca, due south of Raria group and west of Cordillera Huallanca. Approach from the road to Pastoruri to the north of the group (short distance from the road from Lima to Huaraz). Routes are generally easy and doable in a day. SW part of Caullaraju group consists of Caullaraju peaks, a fairly complex group with three main summit areas, Oeste, Central and Este, each with multiple summits. From Caullaraju Este another ridge leads first NE to Quenuaracra, then turns south forming a loop around the valley. Oeste peaks are somewhat lower than Este and central but steeper and more difficult (estimated AD/D by Biggar but with no more detailed info).
  • Tuco-Rajutuna group Eastern part of the group consists of long North-South chain. Tucu and Pastoruri lie in the northern end close to Pastoruri and are very accessible. From there long ridge system runs due south containing Rajutuna peaks marking the southernmost end of Cordillera Blanca.

Caullaraju group

SW part of Caullaraju group consists of Caullaraju peaks, a fairly complex group with three main summit areas, Oeste, Central and Este, each with multiple summits. From Caullaraju Este another ridge leads first NE to Quenuaracra, then turns south forming a loop around the valley. Oeste peaks are somewhat lower than Este and central but steeper and more difficult (estimated AD/D by Biggar but with no more detailed info).

  • Yuraq Janka pp.124

Mountains

Champará group

San Julian massif

San Julian (San Julián)-8.645284-77.7849225326
1932-06-05
San Julian, ,
First ascent		E. Hein & H. Hoerlin

Champará massif

Champará (Champara)-8.6927-77.77495735
Highest peak Champará massif
1900-01-01
Event
Arista Oeste
Arista Oeste (Vertiente O). 15 days round trip. 1936-07-02First ascentA. Awerzger & E. Schneider, 1936-07-02.
  • Tomé pp.39#1
  • Sharman pp.15
  • Bohórquez #9
San Miguel (Champará Chico)-8.6861-77.79085715
  • Bohórquez #9
Champará Este (Champará SE)5450
1900-01-01
Event
Lado NE
Lado NE. 1932-05-29First ascentE Hein, E. Schneider & H. Hoerlin, 1932-05-29.
  • Tomé pp.39#1
  • Sharman pp.15
  • Bohórquez #8
Champará Chico (San Miguel)5273
  • Bohórquez #9

Milluacocha

Milluacocha

Milluacocha Central-8.8030-77.73505480
1900-01-01
Event
SE side
Lado SE (Pendientes SE). Glacier, PD; 1200m, 1 day. 1945-01-01First ascentF. & D. Marmillod, 1945.
  • Tomé pp.42#1
  • Sharman pp.16
  • Bohórquez #11
Arista SE. Glacier, PD; 1200m, 1 day. 1962-08-21First ascentV. Angeles, M. Inokucji, Y. Hamano & N. Kaburami, 1962-08-21.
  • Tomé pp.42#2
  • Sharman pp.16
  • Bohórquez #12

Pilanco

Pilanco Norte-8.7993-77.68665286
1900-01-01
Event
South Ridge
Arista Sur. PD; 1 day. 1966-07-08First ascentD. Atherton, R. Goody, D. Norton & R. Wylie, 1966-07-08.
Pilanco Central-8.8139-77.69225300
1900-01-01
Event
North Ridge
Arista Norte. PD; 1 day. 1966-07-07First ascentD. Atherton, R. Goody, D. Norton & R. Wylie, 1966-07-07.
Pilanco Sur-8.8309-77.68525150
Located only little to SW od Abra Gara Gara from where NE ridge leads to summit.
1900-01-01
Event
NE Ridge
Arista NE (NE ridge). Rock, AD; 500m, 1 day. 1966-06-22First ascentD. Atherton, R. Goody, D. Norton & R. Wylie, 1966-06-22.

Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz group

Santa Cruz Norte I-8.870613-77.7184875829
1900-01-01
Event
Arista Oeste
Arista Oeste. Mixed, TD; 60-70°; 1150m, 2 days. 1967-07-24First ascentA. Miyashita, N. Nishigori, T. Hayashi & K. Kobayashi, 1967-07-24.
laguna Cullicocha - glacier NW (5100m) - NW face (400m) - West ridge (430m).
Pared Sur
Pared Sur (Caveat Emptor). Snow/rock, ED; 95°; 750m, 2 days. 1997-07-29First ascentC. Eriksson & B. Wolf, 1997-07-29.
Santa Cruz Chico (Nevado Atunqocha, Santa Cruz Central)-8.878669-77.7087885800
Rarely climbed peak on the ridge between Santa Cruz Grande and Chico. None of the parties have gained the absolute highest points, as unstable seracs have stopped all suitors few meters below.
1900-01-01
Event
NE Face
NE Face. Snow, 12h from camp at 5200m. 1958-07-02First ascentD. Michael, Irene & Leigh Ortenburger, 1958-07-02.
NE face, then along North ridge to the summit.
East face
East face (Scottish route). TD; 70-85°; 600m, 1 day.
  • Bohórquez #32
West Ridge
West Ridge. Snow, TD; 2 days.
  • Tomé pp.48#1
Santa Cruz Grande (Pucaraju, Pico de Huaylas)-8.893976-77.7089746241

Highest peak of Santa Cruz area. Despite of this, not overly often climbed because there is no easy route to the summit. One further reason for this is that the peak is not easily seen.

Massif running generally from South to North, located to the north of Quebrada Santa Cruz and to the East of lagunas Yuracoccha, Cuillicoccha and Rajucolta.

All routes are difficult. West ridge is the most commonly climbed route, although access to south face is much shorter.

1900-01-01
Event
  • Biggar 2005 pp.60-1
  • Kiendler pp.45-6
TD.
North side
French Route (Cara NE). TD; 800m. 1977-05-31First ascentR. Ghillini & Prud'homme, 1977-05-31.
On the left-hand side of the face.
Swiss Route (NE Face, Ruta Suiza, Cara NE & Arista N). Snow/ice, D+/TD; 50-55°; 900m, 10-12h. 1948-07-20First ascentF. Marmilloz & A. Szepessy, 1948-07-20.
First ascent route. From Lag. Jancarurish to the base of the climb (bergschrund at 5600m), then along steep right slanting ramp to N Ridge which is gained at approx. 6100m, then along the ridge to the summit.
  • Tomé pp.49#3
  • Sharman pp.19
  • Bohórquez #29
North Ridge (Arista Norte). TD; 800m, 7,5h. 1977-05-31First ascentN. Jaeger, 1977-05-31.
From the col between Santa Cruz Chico and Santa Cruz Grande along the ridge to the summit.
East ridge
Unclimbed. Attempt by Italian party is covered in AAJ 2012.
    South side
    Big remote face featuring almost 1000m on steep snow and ice with no easy way off. There are two other routes, Ecuatoriana (ED, 1200m) and Alemana (TD, 900m). Furthermore, SW Ridge is also possible from this side of the mountain.
    Ecuadorian Route (Cara SE). Mixed, TD+; AI4/85°, VI; 1200m. 1984-08-04First ascentNavarrete & Suarez, 1984-08-04.
    German Route (cara Sur). TD-; 900m. 1977-08-14First ascentHans Gloggner, Alfred Müller & Walter Janner, 1977-08-14.
    South face direct (Jaeger, Cara S directa). Snow/rock, TD-; 900m, 10-12h from bergschrund. 1978-06-15First ascentN. Jaeger, 1978-06-15.
    50-60° face with 200m of steep mixed ground. From Quebrada Paccharuri with high camp on the edge of the glacier (5000m, 3-4h from the base camp).
    West side
    SW Ridge (Arista SO). Snow/ice, D+; 55-60°; 900m. 1977-08-12First ascentSepp Gloggner & Peter Gloggner & Fritz Niedermaier, 1977-08-12.
    From lagos Yuraccocha via SW Face runnels (55-60°) to ridge (@5600m, 300m). Along the mixed ridge (40°) to the summit.
    SW Face (Cara SO). TD/ED-; 70-80°; 1000m. 1980-08-05First ascentJ.M.Lang, B.Douillet & P.Sombardier, 1980-08-05.
    Face between West and SW ridges. Route follows the left-hand side of the face. not too far away from the West Ridge.
    West Ridge (American route, Arista Oeste). Snow/ice, D+; 50-60°; 900m, 12-16h from the base of the ridge; 2-3 days from Yuraccocha. 1980-06-08First ascentK. Hadley, R. Matons & M Wells, 1980-06-08.
    Normal route. Most commonly climbed route on Santa Cruz Grande. From lagos Yuraccocha. High camp on the col between Quebrada Yuraccocha and Quebrada Rajucolta, near the base of the ridge (5300m, 2-3h from the BC). Passing the ice wall on the right via runnel (55-60°). Conditions vary greatly from year to year.
    Abasraju-8.90032-77.683215785
    1900-01-01
    Event
    East Face (Cara Este)
    East Face (Cara Este). Snow/rock, TD; 700m, 1-2 days. 1978-06-13First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1978-06-13.
    Reportedly very serious.
    SW Face (Cara SO)
    SW Face (Cara SO). Snow/rock, ED; 85°; 450m, 1 day. 1998-07-30First ascentD. Rodríguez & López, 1998-07-30.
    • Tomé pp.51
    • Bohórquez #35

    Quitaraju

    Quitaraju (Kitaraju)-8.89510-77.664856036
    Located above the Santa Cruz valley, immediately southeast of Alpamayo. Can be climbed from the col camp (5300m) between Quitaraju and Alpamayo (either North Face or W Ridge). Not nearly as popular as Alpamayo.
    1900-01-01
    Event
    • Biggar 2005 pp.61-62
    • Kiendler pp.46-8
    AD/D.
    North side
    North Face (Cara Norte, Arista Oeste, Cara Norte). Snow/rock, D-; 55° (last 50m, mostly 50°)°; 400/650m, 3-5h (face only). 1964-07-11First ascentE. Cotter, D. McKay, M. Nelson, 1964-07-11.
    Classic. On the right side of central rock rib to the summit ridge some 80m to the west of the summit. From col camp between Alpamayo and Quitaraju to the bergschrund (1-2h).
      North Face Direct. D; 60-65°; 700m. 1988-07-04First ascentF. Vicencio & A. Vogel, 1988-07-04.
      700m ice climb with constant angle 60° from col camp between Alpamayo and Quitaraju. More of a variation of North Face rather than an independent line.
      • Bohórquez #40a
      West Ridge (Cara Norte, Arista Oeste, Arista Oeste). Snow, AD; 60°; 400/650m, 4-7h. 1936-06-17First ascentA. Awerzger & E. Schneider, 1936-06-17.
      Normal route, classic. Easiest route, however sustained and longer than north face. From Alpamayo Col Camp to Quitaraju-Loyacjirca col via North Flank (at first 40-45° last 200m 55°), then along the ridge to the summit.
      • Johnson pp.46-47
      • Tomé pp.55#2
      • Sharman pp.22
      • Bohórquez #42
      East Face
      Cara Este. 50-60°; 800m, 3h. 1986-05-11First ascentD. Tic & M. Romih, 1986-05-11.
      • Bohórquez #40
      Cara E & Arista SE. Snow/rock, TD+; 800m, 2-3 days. 1969-07-06First ascentH. Saler, H. Schmidt, B. Scheckenbach, K. Scheckenbach, H. Susselmilch & W. Weinzierl, 1969-07-06.
      South Face (Cara Sur)
      Slovenian Route. Snow/rock, TD; 50-80°; 800m, 16h. 1986-01-01First ascentSlavko Sveticic & Z.Trusnovec, 1986.
      • Tomé pp.55#3
      • Sharman pp.23
      • Bohórquez #45
      Central Buttress Direttissima. ED2; Sco VII,7/VI/WI6+/110°; 800m, 21h. 2001-01-01First ascentNick Bullock & Al Powell, 2001.
      • Bohórquez #46
      West ridge
      Arista O integral. 1979-06-02First ascentM. Meden, M. Tarkus, E. Maryam, M. Zumoskav & J. Flasker, 1979-06-02.
      • Bohórquez #44
      NW face
      Cara O-NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 90, 60-70°, V; 900m. 1976-07-07First ascentR. Gilbert & P. Kellerman, 1976-07-07.
      Alpamayo-8.879167-77.6536675947

      Steep, beautifully shaped fluted pyramid of ice, known as the most beautiful mountain in the world.

      Today almost solely climbed via SW Face (especially Canal Central on the leftern part of the face(AD+/D to summit ridge, very few actually make the traverse to main summit)).

      1951-01-01
      Alpamayo, French-Belgian expedition claimed to have made the first ascent in 1951 via North Ridge. After studying the photos in the 1951 book by Georges Kogan et al.,
      Event      		French-Belgian expedition claimed to have made the first ascent in 1951 via North Ridge. After studying the photos in the 1951 book by Georges Kogan et al.: 'The Ascent of Alpamayo' the German team (G. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann) came into coclusion, that the 1951 team did not reach the actual summit.
      • Radehose pp.90
      • Biggar 2005 pp.62-63
      • Kiendler pp.43-5
      AD/D.
      North side
      North Ridge (Arista Norte). Snow/rock, D (summit ridge, true summit TD); 45-60°; 1500-1600m, 14-16h. 1966-07-09First ascentD. Bathgate & R. Smith, 1966-07-09.
      First ascent route. From Lag. Jancarunish in Quebrada de los Cedros via col Norte (5670m). Also possible from col camp (5300m). Not commonly used because of high objective risk. However, the route does not suffer from crowd-generated risks. .
      Variante al collado de la arista N. 19h. 1968-07-21First ascentL. Irwin, B. Jenkinson, D. Drake & G. Hodsworth, 1968-07-21.
      • Bohórquez #54
      NE side
      NE face (Cara NE). Snow/rock, D/D+; 900m. 1970-07-06First ascentJ. Jolly & J. Stanton, 1970-07-06.
      • Tomé pp.64#13
      • Sharman pp.25
      • Bohórquez #65
      SE side
      East Ridge (Arista Este). Snow/rock, TD; 900m, 3-4 days. 1969-06-26First ascentH. Schmidt & W. Weinzerl, 1969-06-26.
      via col 5200m between Alpamayo and Pucarashta Oeste. Also possible from laguna Quitaracsa.
      Yugoslav route (Kranji route, Ruta Eslovena, Cara SE). Snow/rock, TD; 65-80; 800m, 15h. 1979-06-05First ascentT. Cesen, M. Dolenc, P. Markic & Z. Trusnovic, 1979-06-05.
      American route (Ruta Americana, Cara SE). Snow/rock, TD; 65-80°; 800m, 2 days. 1979-07-01First ascentR. Wyatt & D. Jenkins, 1979-07.
      South ridge
      Over the years the nomenclature of routes as become confused to the extent that until recently every publication, guide or reference source has mistakenly attributed the Ferrari Route to another line. The classic and very frequented 350m AD+ runnel, which is commonly referred to as the Ferrari Route and leads to the North Ridge left of the summit is, in fact, the Canal Central.
      South Ridge (Arista Sur). Snow/rock, TD; 400m, 2 days from col camp. 1957-01-01First ascentG. Hauser, F. Knauss, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957.
      • Tomé pp.62#9
      • Sharman pp.25
      • Bohórquez #61
      SW face (Cara SO)
      Today Alpamayo is almost solely climbed via SW Face (especially Route canal route on the leftern part (AD+/D). Other runnels on the southwest face have been climbed as well (about TD). Basque-French is located furthest to the left, then is Route canal, then Peruvian-Canadian (1988) and on the right Ferrari (often erroneously known as French direct).
      Cara SO. D; 60-80°; 300m. 1985-08-27First ascentO. Ceballos & R. Yepes, 1985-08-27.
      • Bohórquez #55a
      Vasco-Francesa (Basque-French). Snow, D; 60-75°; 300m, 5-8h. 1993-06-28First ascentA. & S. Cayrol, A. Monasterio, J.L. Domeño, B. Gartzia & S. Domínguez, 1993-06-28.
      Slightly steeper and icier than the central couloir but less prone to falling debris from both fragile flutings and other climbers. The only disadvantage is that the traverse to the summit is that much longer.
      • Tomé pp.61#5
      • Bohórquez #56
      Canal central. Snow, AD+; 60-75°/Sco III; 300m, 4-6h. 1983-01-01First ascentR. Renoir, Susana, J. Gálvez & A.G. Bohórquez, 1983.
      Normal route, classic. Most often climbed route on Alpamayo. The classic 350m AD+ runnel, which is commonly referred to as the Ferrari Route and leads to the North Ridge left of the summit. Most climbers do not traverse to the true summit (D/TD). Too crowded for its own good. The route is generally equipped for rappel descent. Objectively dangerous as the climb is ice fall endangered both on approach to the col camp on on route itself (route ascends straight runnel with no place to cover against falling ice).
      • Johnson pp.50-51
      • Tomé pp.61#6
      • Kiendler #B2
      • Bohórquez #57
      Cara SO. Snow, ED; 95, 45-60°; 400m. 2002-08-08First ascentJ. Escruela & T. Tain, 2002-08-08.
      • Bohórquez #58
      Ferrari. Snow/ice, D+/TD; 50-65°; 400m from the bergschrund (8 pitches). 1975-06-20First ascent Casimiro Ferrari P. Negri A. Zoia D. Borgonovo P. Castelnovo S. Liati , 1975-06-20.
      Classic. Two runnels to the right of Canal central, following the couloir almost directly from the lowest point of the rimaye to summit. Referred to as French Direct (Directa Francesa).
      • Tomé pp.61#7
      • Sharman pp.25
      • Bohórquez #59
      Hispano-Chilena. Snow/rock, TD; 85°; 400m. 1998-07-17First ascentG. Alvarado & C. Cabeza, 1998-07-17.
      • Tomé pp.62#8
      West ridge
      West Ridge (Arista Oeste, Arista ONO). Snow, TD; 500m. 1966-07-20First ascentM. Steinbeis & P. Gessner, 1966-07-20.
      Tayapampa-8.853948-77.6581485675
      Several routes between PD and AD+, 700-1100m and 1-2 days.
      1900-01-01
      Event
      • Tomé pp.65#1-5
      • Sharman pp.27
      North ridge
      North ridge. PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1976-07-01First ascentR. Bilbert, B. Gilbert, M. Blatter & P. Kelemen, 1976-07.
      Arista Norte
      Arista Norte. 1976-07-01First ascentR. Gilbert, P. Gilbert, M. Blatter & P. Kelemen, 1976-07.
      • Bohórquez #75
      North face
      North face. AD+; 55-60°; 700m, 2 days. 1974-06-18First ascentM. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne, 1974-06-18.
      East ridge
      East ridge. PD-; 700m, 2 days. 1970-07-13First ascentWilson & Stanton, 1970-07-13.
      South ridge
      South ridge (Espolón SE). PD; 700m, 1 day. 1968-07-26First ascentJ. Ricker & N. von Tunzelmann, 1968-07-26.
      West side
      Pendientes Oeste. 1966-07-11First ascentR. Goody & D. Morton, 1966-07-11.
      Jankarurish (Jancarurish)-8.864549-77.6553585601
      Located to the north of Alpamayo between Quebrada Alpamayo and Quebrada de los Cedros.
      1900-01-01
      Event
      Arista Norte
      Arista Norte (North ridge). Glacier, AD; 900m, 1 day. 1965-08-15First ascentA. Ames & F. Mantino, 1965-08-15.
      Via Jancarurish-Tayapampa col.
      Arista Este
      Arista Este (East ridge). Glacier, PD; 50°; 900m, 1 day. 1980-08-14First ascentH. Gregoritsch & H. Barnthaler, 1980-08-14.
      Cara SE
      Cara SE (SE face). Snow/rock, AD; 900m, 1 day. 1973-06-18First ascentW. Fiut & P. Malinowski, 1973-06-18.
      • Tomé pp.64#3
      • Sharman pp.27
      • Bohórquez #67
      Arista Sur
      Arista Sur (South ridge). Glacier, AD+; 900m, 1 day. 1970-07-12First ascentP. Glasgow & P. Gough, 1970-07-12.
      Via Alpamayo-Jankarurish col (5670m).
      • Tomé pp.64#4
      • NZAJ 1971
      • Sharman pp.27
      • Bohórquez #68
      Loyajirca (Quitaraju Norte)-8.88489-77.673095600
      Located on North ridge of Quitaraju
      1900-01-01
      Event
      North side
      Ridge leading towards laguna Jancarurish and dividing the valley into two branches.
      Arista Norte. 1977-05-01First ascentN. jaeger, R. Ghillini & B. Prud'homme, 1977-05.
      • Bohórquez #37
      East side
      Cara NE. 1972-06-21First ascentJ. Colomer, M. Martín, M. velasco, P. Xaus & F. Sabat, 1972-06-21.
      • Bohórquez #36
      Cara SE. F. 1957-06-22First ascentB. Huhn & F. Knaus, 1957-06-22.
      • Bohórquez #38
      Cara SE. 1964-07-10First ascentE. Cotter, D. McKay & M. Nelson, 1964-07-10.
      • Bohórquez #39
      Quisuaraju (Arhuaycaca, Arhueykaka)-8.907713-77.6470045380
      Lesser peak on SE ridge of Quitaraju. Spectacular vista towards the peaks of quebrada Santa Cruz. Well suited for acclimatization.
      1900-01-01
      Event
      East face
      East face. F; II-III; 1000m, 0,5 days. 1965-01-01First ascentE. Ángeles, B. Boller, E. Steiger, G. Steiger, R. Schatz, 1965.
      • Tomé pp.58
      • Bohórquez #51, #52

      Pucajircas

      Pucajirca

      Pucajirca (Pukahirka, Pucajirca Norte I)-8.8557-77.59566046
      1961-06-12
      Pucajirca, ,
      First ascent      		J. Nagakawa, J. Nakazima & T. Nakamura
      TD.
      Pucajirca Norte II-8.850302-77.5954066030
      1900-01-01
      Event
      Arista NO
      NW ridge (Arista NO). Snow, TD; 900m. 1955-07-14First ascentN. Clinch & A Kauffman, 1955-07-14.
      Same as SE ridge of Pucajirca Norte III until the col between Norte II and Norte III.
      Arista Unión (Arista NO)
      Arista Unión. TD; 800m. 1974-06-24First ascentM. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne, 1974-06-24.
      NW ridge of Pucajirca Norte III, then traverse to Norte II.
      Pucajirca Central-8.8665-77.59926014
      1900-01-01
      Event
      Cara NE
      Cara NE. Snow/rock, D/TD; 70°; 600m, 3 days. 1982-07-07First ascentMarino Giacometti & Battista Scanabessi, 1982-07-07.
      Arista Este
      Cara SE, arista E. Snow/rock, TD+; 1000m. 1977-07-08First ascentJ. Glidden, R. Gocking, L. Ortenburger & B. Cox, 1977-07-08.
      West side
      Arista SO. Snow, TD; 55-90°; 600m. 1961-06-13First ascentG. Dionisi, G. Harchese, L. Ghigo & M. Fechio, 1961-06-13.
      1980-01-01First ascentM. Curnis, A. Azzopni, A. Bianchetti, A. Bonicelli, R. Fassi, D. Rota, G. Scarpelini, P. Nava & U. Testa, 1980.
      • Bohórquez #85
      Pucajirca Norte III5919
      1900-01-01
      Event
      SE Ridge
      SE ridge (Arista SE). Snow, TD; 850m. 1955-07-12First ascentR. Hopponen & H. Walton, 1955-07-12.
      NW face
      Cara NO. TD; 57°; 700m, 9h. 3-4 days round trip. 1974-06-24First ascentM. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne, 1974-06-24.
      Pucajirca Oeste II5900
      SE ridge
      SE Ridge. TD; 800m, 3 days.

      Pucajirca Sur

      Pucajirca Oeste-8.872479-77.6081946039
      1900-01-01
      Event
      South side
      South buttress (Arista O, Espolón O). TD; 800m. 1970-06-16First ascentJ. Glasgow, P. Gough, J. Stanton, H.D. Wilson & D. White, 1970-06-16.
      Pucajirca Sur-8.8724-77.61076039
      1900-01-01
      Event
      Arista Sur
      Arista Sur. Snow, D+; 1000m, 8-10h. 1936-07-01First ascentE. Schneider, 1936-07-01.
      Much easier to reach than the climbs of Pucajirca Norte.
      • Tomé pp.73#1
      • Sharman pp.28
      • Bohórquez #87
      Arista SO
      Arista SO. D+/TD; 80, 60-65°; 1000m, 8.10h. 1991-07-20First ascentD.M. Sharman & D.A. Thoma, 1991-07-20.
      Rinrijirca-8.887531-77.6046325810
      1900-01-01
      Event
      North Ridge (Cara NE & Arista Norte)
      North ridge (Cara NE & Arista Norte). Snow/rock, TD; 500m from Taulliraju-Rinrihirca col. 1960-06-29First ascentS. Calegari, A. Farino & O. Rosetti, 1960-06-29.
      Via Taulliraju-Rinrihirca col (5300m).
      East ridge (Arista Este)
      East Ridge. Snow, AD+; 2 days. 1900-01-01First ascentUnknown, n/a.
      • Tomé pp.77#2
      • Sharman pp.32
      • Bohórquez #103
      South Face
      SE face (Cara SE & Arista E). D; 1000m, 7-9h. 1986-05-20First ascentR. Payne & M. Hair, 1986-05-20.
      South face. Snow/rock, TD; 80°; 1000m from the glacier, 6h. 1982-05-28First ascentA. Paleari, 1982-05-28.
      Pucrapucraraju-8.8779-77.60605790
      1900-01-01
      Event
      North side
      Cara NE & Arista N. 1960-07-09First ascentS. Galegari, A. Farina, N. Poloni & O Rossetti, 1960-07-09.
      • Bohórquez #98
      Cara NE. 1972-08-03First ascentB. Miller & T. McCrumm, 1972-08-03.
      • Bohórquez #99
      Curicashajana-8.8969-77.61195510
      Located next to Rinrijirca
      1900-01-01
      Event
      SE face
      SE face. AD; 65°; 1000m, 2 days. 1991-07-13First ascentM. Davie, 1991-07-13.
      West face
      West face. PD+; 1000m, 2 days. 1965-08-05First ascentF. Comtesse, G. Hartmann, H. Reiss & M. Spoerry, 1965-08-05.

      Pucarashta

      Pucarashta Este (Mushoq Shipash)5700
      1900-01-01
      Event
      • Tomé pp.75-6
      • Sharman pp.29-31
      South ridge
      South ridge (Cara Sur). TD/ED; V+, 80°; 550m, 10h. 1991-06-20First ascentP. Moorey & M. Davie, 1991-06-20.
      West ridge
      West ridge (Arista O). D+; 1000m, 3 days. 1974-06-15First ascentM. Andrews, W. Katra & J. Milne, 1974-06-15.
      Pucarashta Central-8.8770-77.62685650
      1900-01-01
      Event
      • Tomé pp.75-6
      • Sharman pp.29-31
      North side
      North ridge. AD; 1000m, 1 days. 1968-07-28First ascentM. Ricker & N. von Tunzelman, 1968-07-28.
      South side
      South face. TD-; 75°, IV; 700m, 1 days. 1991-06-16First ascentP. Moorey, M. Davie & S. Di Ponio, 1991-06-16.
      West side
      West ridge. TD+; 1700m, 2-3 days. 1980-07-01First ascentN Kekus & D. Howard, 1980-07.
      Pucarashta Oeste5450
      1900-01-01
      Event
      • Tomé pp.75-6
      • Sharman pp.29-31
      South side
      SE face. D-; 40-60°; 450m, 4h. 1991-06-15First ascentN.J. Kemp, D.A. Thomas & D.M. Sharman, 1991-06-15.
      SW face. D+; III; 500m, 6-8h. 1961-06-19First ascentS. Lee & N. Kemp, 1961-06-19.

      Taulliraju

      Taulliraju (Tawllirahu)-8.893552-77.578345830
      1900-01-01
      Event
      North ridge
      North ridge. ED; 1500m.
      North side
      North face (Cara N & arista NE). Snow/rock, TD; 5.8,A1, 60°; 500/1500m. 1956-08-18First ascentM. Davaille, C. Gaudin, R. Sennelier, P. Souriac & L. Terray, 1956-08-18.
      From Taulliraju-Rinrijirca col via North Face and North East Ridge.
      North face (Cara N). Mixed, ED; 1500m. 1979-07-29First ascentP. Busch & J. Baja, 1979-07-29.
      • Tomé pp.78#2
      • Sharman pp.32
      • Bohórquez #108
      East face
      • Taulliraju, East Face. Riding a bike three days from Carhuaz (2650m) to Punta Olimpica (4890m) sounded like a fast and simple method of acclimatization. Two hours after Matej Flis, Tadej Golob and I departed, though, I realized once more there are no shortcuts in alpinism. By Grega Lacen at Alpinist on 2006-11-27.
      West ridge. 5.10b, M5 AI5. 2016-06-01First ascentBen Dare, Steve Skelton, 2016-06.
        SSE ridge
        Long ridge towards Punta Union. There are several cols and bumbs on the long ridge. Col between Taulliraju and Contrafuerte (5300m), Contrafuerte (Torreón, 5400), Taulliraju Sur (5400m) and Tuctubamba (5240m).
        Japanese Route. ED1; 5.7, WI4; 650m. 1976-08-01First ascentMizobuchi, Nagashino & Yoda, 1976-08.
        via Jaeger. Mixed, ED1; 800m, 8h. 1979-06-09First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1979-06-09.
        Climbs the couloir to the right of South face East Buttress to join SSE ridge for the upper half of the climb.
        SSE ridge (Arista S-SE, French Guides' Route, Vía de los Guías de Chamonix). Snow, TD+/ED1; 70-85°; 800m, 17h. 1978-05-31First ascentJ.P. Balmat, D. Monaci, H. Thivierge, J. Fabre, 1978-05-31.
        Together with North face the easiest route. Long sections of ice at 60° steepest parts 70-85°. Very long ridge that climbs to the ridge close to Taulliraju Sur (5400m), then climbs the long ridge in its entity. Jaeger route is essentially a huge shortcut as is "South Buttress variant to South South East Ridge" (Gleizes, Gryska & Prom 1998-07, 400m, TD, WI4+ M4).
        SW face (Cara SO, South side)
        Most commonly climbed site, although all routes are very difficult (several hard mixed routes, TD-ED).
        WSW face (Argentinian Route, El Tajo). ED2; 5.10d,A3/VII,A3, 60-80°; 650m, 24h. 1993-07-01First ascentM. Donozo, G. Pizarro & D. Pizarro, 1993-07.
        via Italiana (Italian route, West Buttress Original Route, Espolón O de la cara SO). Snow/mixed, VI ED2; 5.9,A1, VI/WI6 M6/75-80°; 900m. 1980-08-01First ascentGianni Calcagno, Piero Perona, Ugo Vialardi, Constantino Piazzo, Tulio Vidoni & Stefano DeBenedetti, 1980-08.
        Classic. Climbs the SW Buttress in its entity while "Via Fowler/American" (TD+/ED WI4) and "via Canadiense/Quebec" (TD+ 85°) avoid the start the buttress by climbing ice on the face of the SW buttress to climb the upper SW Buttress. "Via Fowler" by Charlie Fowler is not to be mixed up with "via Fowler - Watts".
        • Johnson pp.52-53
        • Tomé pp.78#4
        • Sharman pp.35
        • Mountain Info, #498 issue: 16, date: 2006-06.
        via Fowler - Watts (South Face East Buttress, Via Fowler, East Buttress Original Route). Mixed, ED3; V,A3+, AI6; 800m. 1982-05-26First ascentMick Fowler & Chris Watts, 1982-05-26.
        New Zealand start (5.10 WI5 A1+).
        West ridge
        West ridge. 5.8, AI5 M4. 2016-06-01First ascentSteve Fortune, Alastair McDowell, Measures, Rose Pearson, 2016-06.
          Taulliraju Sur-8.900251-77.574725400
          Located on SSE ridge of Taulliraju
          1900-01-01
          Event
          • Taulliraju, East Face. Riding a bike three days from Carhuaz (2650m) to Punta Olimpica (4890m) sounded like a fast and simple method of acclimatization. Two hours after Matej Flis, Tadej Golob and I departed, though, I realized once more there are no shortcuts in alpinism. By Grega Lacen at Alpinist on 2006-11-27.
          Taulliraju Sur
          Middle Earth. 5.8, WI5; 400m, 1 day. 2001-01-01First ascentDonahue & Donahue, 2001.
          climbs a hidden couloir on the North West Flank of Taulliraju Sur, then continues up the straightforward North West Ridge to the summit.
          Tuctubamba-8.903007-77.5579835240
          Located on SSE ridge of Taulliraju, due east of Taulliraju Sur.
          • Tomé pp.80
          • Bohórquez #124
          • Bohórquez #125
          Pucaraju5090
          • Pucaraju Norte (5090m)
          • Pucaraju Sur (4950m)
          Separated from Taulliraju by Pucaraju-Taulliraju col (4650m). North and south summits are separated by 2km ridge.
          1900-01-01
          Event
          • Biggar 2005 pp.60-1
          • Kiendler pp.45-6
          West side
          SW slope. F; II; 800m, 1 day. 1955-08-21First ascentH. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmid, 1955-08-21.
          • Tomé pp.80#1
          • Bohórquez #126
          NW ridge. F; 1 day. 1973-08-01First ascentM. Conway & G. Moseley, 1973-08.

          Huandoy Group

          Huandoy North

          Esfinge

          La Esfinge (The Sphinx, Torre de Paron)-9.0023-77.71515325
          Rocky peaks at the western end of Huandoy northern group. Peak in itself is not particularly important but its South and east faces feature vertical rock walls, which are the largest Big-Wall site in Peru. All routes on the faces are around 750m high and highly technical. NE ridge on the other hand is the least technical route on the valley and therefore well suited as acclimatization climb. Until recently, confusion shrouded this formidable rock bastion regarding its location, history and especially, its name. It has been called, among others: Cerro Colca, Cerro Marron, Cerro Paron, La Roca, La Aguja Nevada, Torre Aguja and Torre de Paron. The latter is the official name of a presumably still unclimbed 4800-meter formation further down valley.
          1900-01-01
          Event
          NE side
          NE side (Arista NE). Rock, PD; II-III; 800m. 17h roundtrip from laguna Paron. 1955-06-26First ascentM. Gradl, A. Koch, H. Huber & H. Schmidt, 1955-06-26.
          Normal route. The easiest route on La Esfinge, probaly the whole Paron valley. Via col Esfinge-Putaca Chico.
          East face (Cara Este)
          The best known big rock face in Cordillera Blanca. There are several aid and difficult free routes on the face.
          Espolón E. Rock, VI,A3/VI 5.10a A3; 850-900m. 1987-08-20First ascentC. Polanco, M. Olivera, A. Madrid & E. de la Cal, 1987-08-20.
            Volveras a Mi. Rock, 5.10a,A3+; 900m. 1987-08-20First ascentde la Cal, Mardid, Olivera & Polanco, 1987-08-20.
            Mecho Taq Inti. Rock, 7b (7a obl.)/6c,A2+; 800m. 2001-01-01First ascentA. Grmovsek, T. Rojs & A. Voglar, 2001.
            Cruz del Sur. Rock, 7c+ (7a obl.); 800m. 2000-07-10First ascentMauro Bole & Silvano Karo, 2000-07-10.
            1985 route. Rock, ED/nccs IV-V 5.10d R; VI+,A1/5.10,C1-2/5.11c/6c-/7a/6a,A1(f6c+); 750m, 18 pitches. 1985-07-08First ascentO.P. García & A. Gómez Bohórquez, 1985-07-08.
            Classic. Original route on the face and the most popular big rock route on the whole of Cordillera Blanca. Originally graded 5.11c, but currently the consensus seem to have settled at around 5.10d R.
            Riddle of the Cordillera Blanca. Rock, 5.10+,A3; 750m. 2000-05-01First ascentDavis & Offenbacher, 2000-05.
            Gringos. Rock, 5.12,A3+; 800m. 2001-01-01First ascentMatrin & Vallone, 2001.
            Lobo Estrepario. Rock, 6b,A3; 650m. 2000-07-01First ascentCruces, 2000-07.
            Papa Rellena. Rock, 6c+,A3; 600m. 1999-07-01First ascentCruaud, Dovernay & Peyronnard, 1999-07.
            Here Comes the Sun. Rock, E3 5c,A3/E6 6b; 650m. 2000-01-01First ascentBigger & Regan, 2000.
            Todos Narcos. Rock, 6c,A3; 750m. 2000-07-01First ascentFernandez & Lacueva, 2000-07.
            Little Fluffy Clouds. Rock, E5 5c; 650m. 2000-07-01First ascentDyer & Hammond, 2000-07.
            Ganxets Glacé. Rock, ED-; 6a,A2/VI 5.9 A2; 650m. 1996-07-21First ascentE. Ortuño & A. Salvador, 1996-07-21.
            Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha. Rock, IX/IX+; 650m. 2003-01-01First ascentDusan Beranek, Vladimir Linek & Rado Staruch, 2003.
            Intuition. Rock, 5.12c; 600m. 2000-07-01First ascentMiyamoto & Sharratt, 2000-07.
            Dion’s Dihedral. Rock, 5.9,A3/E5 6b/VI 5.9 A3; 650m. 1999-01-01First ascentLarry Dolecki & Sean Isaac, 1999.
            • Dion's Dihedral - Peruvian Style Big Wall Climbing. We named the 11-pitch route "Dion's Dihedral" (VI 5.9 A3) in memory of our friend. Every time I heard the ice cliffs calving off of the north face of the Huandoy's across the valley from La Esfinge, I felt deep remorse. He was constantly on my mind while I was climbing. I thought of his youthful energy and the great fun we had on the climbs we did together. Larry and I both agreed that this route was for Dion. By Sean Isaac.
            South face
            South face (Cara S-SE). Rock, nccs VI 5.10a A4; VI+,A4; 950m. 1988-08-14First ascentBohorquez & Vicente, 1988-08-14.

            Aguja

            Aguja II (Aguja Norte)-8.974144-77.6930885886
            The highest and central of three Aguja main summits.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Sharman pp.38
            North side
            Cara Norte. Mixed, TD; 500m. 1977-07-15First ascentJ. Ackerly & S. Ackerly, 1977-07-15.
            • Tomé pp.94#1
            • Bohórquez #152
            South side
            Cara Sur (Lado SE). Snow/mixed, TD; 500m, 3 days. 1965-06-25First ascentG. Arcadi, A. Pizzoccolo & V. Taldo, 1965-06-25.
            Direct route through runnels and mixed terrain in the center of Aguja south circue. The climb follows more or less the the spur dropping from the summit.
            • Tomé pp.94#2
            • Bohórquez #151
            • Yuraq Janka pp. 72
            Aguja I (Aguja Sur)-8.9802-77.69555840
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Sharman pp.36-8
            South side
            SE Arete. Rock/mixed, TD; 700m, 2 days. 1978-08-28First ascentM. Kulig, R. Pawlowski & A. Zyzak, 1978-08-28.
            Prominent ridge forming the border of Aguja south circue.
            • Tomé pp.93#1
            • Bohórquez #149
            SW ridge. Snow/mixed, D; 700m, 1 day. 1959-07-15First ascentF. Anderrüthi, E. Reiss & E. Steiger, 1959-07-15.
            To col between Aguja Chica (P5560) and Aguja I, then along one of south ridges. According to Yuraq Janka probably SW ridge.
            • Tomé pp.94#2
            • Sharman pp.36
            • Bohórquez #150
            South face. D; 700m, 1 day. 1979-07-01First ascentA. Tuthil & J. Lieberman, 1979-07.
            • Tomé pp.94#3
            • Sharman pp.36
            • Bohórquez #148
            Aguja III-8.971601-77.684295775
            Not nearly as prominent as higher Aguja I and II but equally difficult (if not more so).
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Sharman pp.38
            • AAJ 2001 pp.276
            South side
            Cara Sur. TD; 550m. 1979-07-08First ascentJ. Porter & McIntyre, 1979-07-08.
            • Tomé pp.94#2
            • Bohórquez #153
            Aguja Chica-8.988302-77.7033885560
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            North ridge. Glacier, AD+; 600m, 1 day. 1959-07-16First ascentH. Frommweiler & E. Haltiner, 1959-07-16.
            North ridge from col between Aguja Chica and Aguja I.
            • Tomé pp.93#1
            • Sharman pp.36
            • Bohórquez #146
            South side
            South Arete. Mixed, 600m, 2 days. 1978-08-22First ascentA. Olsszewski & R. Warecki, 1978-08-22.
            • Tomé pp.93#2
            • Sharman pp.36
            • Bohórquez #147

            Caraz

            Caraz Oeste (Caraz I, Caraz de Paron)-8.967319-77.6688916025
            Highest peak on the chain located between Quebrada Santa Cruz in the north and laguna Paron in the south. One of the easier 6000m peaks in the range.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Biggar 2005 pp.65-6
            • Kiendler pp.51-2
            North side
            Glaciar N & Arista NE (Cara N & arista NE). TD; 800m, 3 days. 1971-07-06First ascentB. Loss & C. Marchiodi, 1971-07-06.
            To col 5750 between Caraz I and II and along NE ridge to the summit.
            • Tomé pp.95#1
            • Bohórquez #158
            East side
            Steep glacier leading to glacier shelf between Caraz I and II (5700m). Seracs and crevasses make the ascents exercise in route finding. Least technical routes to Caraz I from Paron side.
            East glacier and NE Ridge (SE and E slopes, Vertiente Este). D; 50-60°; 800m, 10-12h from high camp. 1955-06-14First ascentH. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-06-14.
            Easiest routes on Caraz I are found on he east side. Relatively non-technical routes but variable glacier conditions. Camp at 5200m. From there via plateau between Caraz I and II (5700m).
            East ridge (Vertiente E & Arista NE). D; 900m, 2-3 days. 1971-06-29First ascentJ. Glidden, B. Janis, F. Mohling, L. Ortenburger & M. Lowe, 1971-06-29.
            South face (Cara Sur)
            Very difficult 800m lines on steep ice face capped with mixed upper part (up to 70°/V and A3). The face is uniformly steep with no prominent features.
            South face Direct. TD+; 80°, V; 900m, 10-12h. 1979-07-20First ascentN. Hellewell & A. Sole, 1979-07-20.
            Cara Sur. TD; A3, 80, 55-70°; 1000m, 17h. 1980-07-07First ascentY.C. Sonnenwyl, P. Morand & E. Loretan, 1980-07-07.
            Caraz Este (Caraz II, Caraz de Santa Cruz)-8.961045-77.6645146020
            Central of Caraz peaks. Few meters lower than Caraz I but more difficult.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North face
            Cara Norte. TD; 800m. 1977-07-19First ascentJ. Ackerly & S. Ackerly, 1977-07-19.
            East Face
            The face has three distinct couloirs capped of with rock barrier. All of them offer offer highly technical mixed routes (middle couloir unclimbed). NE ridge is the easiest route on Caraz II from Paron valley.
            The Superduper Couloir. Ice/mixed, TD; 90°. 1997-01-01First ascentA. Coull, M. Kendrick & M. Morton, 1997.
            Left couloir. FA party stopped on the South East Ridge 50-100m below the summit. First complete ascent was made by the french in 2004 (Salida Directa de Los Gordos, ED2, 90-95, 6a,A2).
            Australian Route. ED1; WI3, V+,A2; 700m. 2004-01-01First ascentMorgan & Scholes, 2004.
            Ascends the right couloir but finished on mixed ground in the center of the face.
            British route. TD+; FA party stopped on reaching the North East Ridge. Slovenians Jost & Mlinar climbed a variant finish in 2001 (700m, TD+, Scottish 5/80) 550m. 1986-01-01First ascentJ. Fisher, M. Sheldrake & A. Warfield, 1986.
            NE ridge. 60-65°; 900-1000m.
            South face
            Relatively short fluted ice face rising above the glacier plateau between Caraz I and II along the wild East glacier.
            SE ridge (East Ridge, Arista SE). D; 60-65°; 900-1000m, 1,5 days. 1955-06-16First ascentH. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-06-16.
            From Laguna Paron to plateau between Caraz I and II (5700m), then via South face ice runnels to summit.
            Cara Sur. TD+; 700m, 1-2 days. 1986-07-10First ascentJ. Fisher, A. Warfield & M. Sheldrake, 1986-07-10.
            Approach as for the East Slopes of Caraz I.
            Caraz III-8.95511-77.6515895720
            Lowest but most difficult of Caraz peaks.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            Cara N. 65°, IV-. 1971-07-05First ascentV. Degaspiere, R. Nicolin i, B. Tabarelli & M. Pilati, 1971-07-05.
            • Tomé pp.97#1
            • Bohórquez #163
            South side
            Steep face with mostly ice but involving some mixed ground.
            South face. TD+; 90°; 600m, 1-2 days. 1987-06-28First ascentG. Bell & H. Khesghi, 1987-06-28.
            The Usual Suspects. ED; V, 85°; 500m. 1997-07-15First ascentB. Wolf, K. Erickson & P. Knoll, 1997-07-15.

            Artesonraju

            Artesonraju-8.9521-77.63285999

            Classic pyramid peak accessible from Quebrada Santa Cruz (NE face, N Ridge) and Quebrada Paron (SE face, SE arete). SE face is probably the most frequented route in quebrada Paron.

            The shape of Artesonraju is possibly the best-known mountain in the world as it's north side features in the logo of Paramount Pictures, just the stars are missing.

            Technically easiest route is North Ridge with AD+. However, SE Face is far more frequented. SE arete offers more technical alternative to SE Face.

            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Biggar 2005 pp.66-7
            • Kiendler pp.48-50
            AD/D.
            North ridge
            North ridge (Cara & espolón NE). D+; 60°, IV+; 800m (6-8h) from the glacier, 1200m (10-12h) from the camp. 1932-08-19First ascentE. Hein, E. Schneider (Germany), 1932-08-19.
            Easiest route, although not nearly as popular as South-East Face. From Quebrada Santa Cruz. Final part up to 60° ridge crest exposed.
            • Johnson pp.56-57
            • Tomé pp.100#6
            • Sharman pp.40
            • Bohórquez #172
            NE face and East Ridge. D+; 80° (mixed headwall 10m, mostly 60°)°, IV; 800m (5-7h) from the glacier, 1200m (10-12h) from the camp. 1977-11-01First ascentT. Ammons & P. Kelemen, 1977-11-01.1965-08-01First ascentG. Hartmann, E. Reiss, R. Schatz & E. Steiger, 1965-08-01.
            East side
            East ridge. Snow/ice, D-; 40-50°; 900m. 1-2 days from Paron glacier. 1971-07-09First ascentB. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger, 1971-07-09.
            Snow/ice ridge. It is possible to gain the col from north (Quebrada Santa Cruz) or south (from a camp on Paron glacier, 5200m).
            South side
            SE Arete (Arista Sur, Eslovena, SE Face & Buttress). TD+; 80-85°, IV; 800m from camp at Paron glacier (5200m). 1993-07-18First ascentT. Sbrizaj, S. Semrajc & B. Naglic, 1993-07-18.
            More technical alternative to SE Face. From Paron valley. Joins the SE face in the upper part.
            SE face (South-East Face). Snow, IV D+; 45-55°; 800m from camp at Paron glacier (5200m), 7-9h. 1969-06-24First ascentK. Schreckenbach, H. Saler & K. Sussmilch, 1969-06-24.
            Normal route, classic. Most favorable and most often used route through the central couloir on the face. The general inclination of the face is 45-55 degrees (60° on the last 100m). It is purely packed snow climbing.
            Cara SO. TD; 50-80°; 900m. 1979-01-01First ascentA. Sole & G. Spohr, 1979.
            NW face
            Cara NO. 70-85°; 2 days.
            • Bohórquez #165

            Piramide

            Millishraju
            Millishraju I-8.947946-77.6074725510
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            NE&N ridges. F-. 1955-08-16First ascentH. Huber, A. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-08-16.
            • Sharman pp.41
            South side
            South ridge. PD. 1965-07-30First ascentE. Angeles, B. Boler, F. Comtesse, G. Spoerry & L. Spoerry, 1965-07-30.
            • Sharman pp.41
            • Bohórquez #183
            Millishraju II-8.944088-77.6050695500
            1900-01-01
            Event
            West side
            West face. PD/AD. 1965-07-29First ascentG. Hartman & R. Shatz, 1965-07-29.
            • Sharman pp.42
            • Bohórquez #182
            Paria
            Paria (Paron Grande)-8.9579-77.61455600
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North face
            Bartonellosis. Ice, TD+; Sco 5; 400m, 10 pitches. 2004-06-06First ascentNick Carter, Mike Pescod & Owen Samuel, 2004-06-06.
            SW side
            South ridge. AD-; 50°; 800m, 7-8h. 1957-05-25First ascentG. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957-05-25.
            West face. D; 45°; 400m, 4h. 1980-07-17First ascentM. Madoz, E. Emmanuel, J.M. Errea, J.G. Mediluce, A. Gorraiz, J. Alberdi & C. Ochoa, 1980-07-17.
            West ridge
            SW Face to West Ridge. D; 55°; 400m. 1980-07-10First ascentR. Blatherwick & M. Rickey, 1980-07-10.
            Paron Sur-8.9660-77.61575500
            Minor bumb on the main ridge between Paron Grande and Piramide Norte. Easiest climbing from the upper Paron valley and thus one of the few peaks suited as acclimatization goal from the valley.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            North ridge. Snow, AD; 1 day. 1957-05-24First ascentE. Angeles, G. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedman, 1957-05-24.
            West face
            Central spur. Ice, AD+; 200m. 2004-08-23First ascentAndrew McIntyre, Kevin Neal & Neil Stewart, 2004-08-23.
            Piramide
            Piramide de Garcilaso (Pirámide)-8.9765-77.62205885
            1900-01-01
            Event
            SW face (Cara SO)
            Somewhat more difficult than NW face featuring several prominent runnels which form logical paths of accension. All of the routes on this face feature some rock/mixed passages which usually form the crux of the climbs. Therefore the conditions greatly affects how difficult they are.
            Cara SO. Mixed, 90-55°, VI; 700m, 11h. 1995-07-13First ascentA. Monasterio & D. Debelak, 1995-07-13.
            • Bohórquez #192
            SW Face Direct. Mixed, TD+; 80°, IV; 800m, 8-12h. 1979-07-23First ascentR. Renshaw & P. Wilkinson, 1979-07-23.
            Challenging mixed climb directly to the summit. Like Alpamayo SW face but longer, more difficult and without the crowds.
            Cambio de luna. TD+; 85°, V; 400m. 1996-08-26First ascentB. Wolf & A. Clarke, 1996-08-26.
            West Ridge (Arista Oeste)
            Ridge towards leguna Paron separating NW and SW faces.
            West Ridge (Arista Oeste). ED; 900m, 3 days. 1978-09-08First ascentM. Kulig & R. Pawlowski, 1978-09-08.
            NW face (Cara NO)
            Fluted face towards Paron glacier (Artesonraju). Several lines, all around D or D+ (50-60°) and 500m. Easiest means to climb Piramide main summit.
            NW face (Cara NO). Ice/snow, D+; 60°; 550m, 1 day from glacier camp. 1957-05-29First ascentG. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957-05-29.
            Variante '71. Ice/snow, D+; 60°; 550m, 1 day from glacier camp. 1971-06-05First ascentG. Lowe & M. Lowe, 1971-06-05.
            Considered to be variant of NW face route is most guidebooks. Similar in length and difficulty.
            Piramide Norte-8.96982-77.6185015700
            Minor peak on the north (NE) ridge of Piramide de Garcilaso. Not very prominent peak at all. Exclusively climbed along NE ridge. West face is quite steep and much rockier than neighboring NW face of Piramide de Garcilaso.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            North ridge. AD; 1 day. 1957-05-23First ascentG. Hauser, B. Huhn & H. Wiedmann, 1957-05-23.
            The easiest route on Piramide but finishes on the lower north summit. The ridge starts at the col between Paron Sur and Piramide (5450m) which can be gained from Paron glacier.

            Huandoy Central

            Yanawaka group

            Torre de Parón (Cerro Torohuacra)-9.0308-77.71234805
            Despite it has been confused before, Torre de Parón is a separate peak from nearby La Esfinge. This official Torre de Paron is located on the south side of quebrada Paron.

            Pisco

            Pisco Este-9.011833-77.6311395760
            One of the easier peaks in Huandoy group. Higher but less often climbed than few meters lower Pisco Oeste.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            Cara Norte. D; 600m. 1971-06-26First ascentB. Janis & M. Lowe, 1971-06-26.
            Pendiente Norte & Arista NO. AD-; 600m. 1971-06-23First ascentJ. Glidden, F. Mohling, L. Ortenburger & R. Reese, 1971-06-23.
            East side
            Arista Este. ED1; 85°, VI; 750m. 1985-06-12First ascentLuca Dalla Palma & Michele Dalla Palma, 1985-06-12.
            from Chacraraju Col.
            South face
            South Face. M5/90°; 350m. 2004-06-01First ascentAdam Kovacs, 2004-06.
            SW side
            Pendiente Oeste & Arista NO. D-; 500m. 1959-01-01First ascentD. Mackay, J. Nelson, M. Nelson & J. Totgill, 1959.
            Cara SO. 500m. 1961-07-01First ascentD. Bernays, F. Bernays & F. Knight, 1961-07.
            From the col between Pisco Oeste and Este.
            Arista Sur (South East Spur). TD; 500m. 1980-07-03First ascentDerek Howard & Nick Kekus, 1980-07-03.
            Pisco Oeste-9.01047-77.6324845752
            Quite possibly the most frequently climbed peak in Cordillera Blanca. Regularly climbed by commercial parties and as acclimatization peak by parties having larger objectives in mind.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Biggar 2005 pp.68-9
            • Kiendler pp.55-6
            Arista NE
            Arista NE. TD; 300m. 1983-06-20First ascentL. Apollonio, D. Baldassi, R. Durin & A. Orlini, 1983-06-20.
            From East side to col 5580m between Pisco Oeste and Pisco Este and from the col along NE ridge to the summit.
            Cara Este. ED; 50-90°, VI; 350m, 12h. 1998-05-01First ascentC. Geisler & S. Gaston, 1998-05.
            • Tomé pp.112#6
            • Bohórquez #238
            South side
            Facing quebrada Llanganuco (refugio Peru). The face is framed with SW ridge (highly frequented normal route) in the left and NE ridge in the right. There are several relatively short steep ice routes on south face, the easiest being AD/D.
            El camino secreto de Hermann Kirchner. Mixed, 5c+,A1, 50-90°. 2012-01-01First ascentFlorian Burger & Beto Pinto, 2012.
            • Climbers "Radio" For Help On Peruvian FA. Originally planning to climb the west face of Yerupaja (ca. 6600m), Austrian Florian Burger and Peruvian Beto Pinto put up a new route on Pisco (5752m) in late August. El Camino Secreto de Hermann Kichner ascends the south face, with maximum difficulties of 5.10- A1 rock and 50- to 90-degree ice and snow. By Taylor VanRoekel at Alpinist on 2012-11-05.
            Cara Sur. D; 350m/1200m. 1977-07-26First ascentM. Barrand, 1977-07-26.
            Cara Sur (Corredor central). D; 400m/1200m. 1977-07-30First ascentM. Barrand, C. Bougnaud & P. Vallencant, 1977-07-30.
            Cara Sur. D+; 425m/1200m. 1981-06-24First ascentC. Bougnaud & R. Wilson, 1981-06-24.
            Cara Sur. TD-; 500m/1200m. 1976-08-11First ascentR. Tuliszka & J. Marcincowski, 1976-08-11.
            SW ridge
            SW ridge starts from the col between Huandoy Este and Pisco Este (5350m). The route us highly frequented from quebrada Llanganuco (refugio Peru). The col can also be gained from quebrada Paron, which is reportedly significantly more difficult.
            • Bohórquez #229-#238
            SW slopes (Arista SO). IV PD/nccs II; 45°/AI1; 850m, 3-5h from moraine camp. 1951-07-12First ascentC & G. Kogan, R. Ceninger & M. Lenoir, 1951-07-12.
            Normal route. Quite possibly the most popular route in Cordillera Blanca. Potentially serious crevasses. Gains the col to the left of Pisco Oeste and follows the ridge to the summit.
            • Johnson pp.96-7
            • Frimer pp.40-1
            • Tomé pp.111#1
            • Kiendler #B8
            • Sharman pp.48
            • Bohórquez #229

            Chacraraju

            Chacraraju Oeste (West Summit)-8.994194-77.6149036108
            Possibly the hardest summit in Peru. Normally climbed via South Face, although the routes on north side might may slightly less difficult (still ED1, though). West face from Paron valley is quite possibly the most difficult climb in the whole Cordillera Blanca.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Biggar 2005 pp.68
            • Kiendler pp.53-5
            ED1/ED2.
            Arista Norte
            Arista Norte (North ridge). ED1; 800m, 3-4 days. 1964-08-23First ascentH. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost & L. Ortenburger, 1964-08-23.
            NE face
            to col between the summits on the East Ridge, 3-4 days.
            Cara NE (East ridge). ED1; A1; 1000m, 3-4 days. 1956-07-31First ascentM. Davaille, R. Jenny, M. Martin, R. Sennelier, P. Saurioc & L. Terray, 1956-07-31.
            First ascent route on Chacraraju Oeste.
            Lord of the Towers. ED3; 6a,A1, AI6/90°; 800m. 2004-01-01First ascentKovac, Kozjek & Monasterio, 2004.
            • Chacraraju Oeste, North face. On July 8-9, Marjan Kovac and I (both from Slovenia) and Aritza Monasterio (Spain/Basque, living in Huaraz) opened a new route on the north face of Chacraraju Oeste (6112m) in a lightweight, single push. By Pavle Kozjek at Alpinist on 2004-12-01.
            Slovak Route. ED; V+,A2, 60-80°; 800m. 1986-06-16First ascentHapala & Husicka, 1986-06-16.
            South face
            One of the most challenging test pieces in the Andes. There are several routes, all of them difficult.
            Franco-Americana. Ice, ED+; 60-90°; 850m, 28h. 1977-01-01First ascentM.O. Meunier & John Bouchard, 1977.
            French Direct (Directa Francesa). Ice, ED1/2; 90°; 950m, 2-3 days. 1983-01-01First ascentR. Desmaison, M. Arizzi, X. Chapaz & J. Fourque, 1983.
            Probably the easiest route on Chacraraju Oeste.
            Ruta Astier. ED; 800m, 1 day. 1979-05-24First ascentY. Astier, 1979-05-24.
            Suizo-Francesa-Peruana. ED+; 800m. 1964-06-28First ascentX. Bongard, P.A. Romagnoli, P.E. Beaud & H. Colonia, 1964-06-28.
            Slovenian Route (Ruta Eslovena). ABO; VII+,A3, 95°; 945m. 1982-06-08First ascentFreser & Knez, 1982-06-08.
            West face
            Possibly the most difficult aspect of Chacraraju. Narrow mixed face above Chacracocha with extremely difficult climbing. The central part of the face consists of very steep rock barrier, both lower and upper parts are mixed.
            Cara Oeste (Ruta Alpos-Facig-Slovenue). ABO; VII+,A3+, 95°; 950m. 1996-06-29First ascentD. Debelan, V. Mliner, T. Zerovnik, I. Oblan, A. Monasterio, A Nerman & J. Cajzek, 1996-06-29.
            Possbly the most difficult climb in whole Cordillera Blanca. Direct route through the central part of the face. The first ascent was done using big wall tactics and 400m of fixed rope.
            Chacraraju Este (Huaripampa, East Summit)-8.99572-77.6059776001
            1900-01-01
            Event
            East side
            Arista NE. ED2; 800m, 1 day. 1962-08-05First ascentL. Dubast, P. Gendre, G. Magnone, J. Souris & Lionel Terray, 1962-08-05.2011-06-22First ascentOriol Baro & Jordi Corominas, 2011-06-22.
            East face (Slovenian). ED4; 6b,A2, 80°; 800m, 17 pitches. 21h. 1993-07-19First ascentP. Kozjek & G. Kresal, 1993-07-19.
            The Shriek of the Black Stone. ED3/4; 6b,A2+/VI-VII,A2, 90°; 950m, 25 pitches. 1999-01-01First ascentJure Juhasz & Andrej Markovic, 1999.
            South face
            One of the most challenging test pieces in the Andes.
            Japonesa. TD/ED; 700m. 1972-01-01First ascentD. Kochi & Tanaka, 1972.
            Americana. ED+; 700m. 1978-08-01First ascentE. Rickey & M. Brewer, 1978-08.
            Hispano-Peruviana. ED; 700m. 1984-08-21First ascentA. García, I.J. Escolar & W. Silverio, 1984-08-21.
            Jaeger Route (Grand Couloir). ED1; 650m, 7-10h. 1978-07-05First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1978-07-05.
            Most popular route on Este. Less difficult and committing than routes on Oeste. At first 50-65° on the couloir leading to the summit tower. Summit tower steeper (60-80°). Running on Empty variation is more difficult at Sco VI,7.
            Japonesa '76. ED+; A1-2, 60°; 800m. 1976-01-01First ascentK. Kondo & M. Yoshino, 1976.

            Yanapaccha

            Yanapaccha (Yanaphaqcha)5460
            • Yanapaccha
            • Yanapaccha Sureste
            Not too imposing peaks located at the end of Llanganuco valley. Relatively non-technical snow/ice route from the west is among the most popular climbs in the whole range. South ridge from Portachuelo de Llanganuco over SE summit is much difficult proposition.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            South side
            South Arete. TD+; 1000m, 2 days. 1980-07-01First ascentN. Kekus & D. Howard, 1980-07.
            Long ridge from Portachuelo de Llanganuco over SE summit (5145m). The upper part of the route is sometimes climbed in opposite direction to complete a one-day traverse from Yanapaccha moraine camp on the west side of the mountain.
            West face (Cara Oeste)
            West face (Cara Oeste). IV PD+/AD-; 40-45°; 550m, 5-8h from moraine camp. 1959-07-08First ascentD. Mackay & H. Tothill, 1959-07-08.
            NW ridge. PD+; 550m, 1 day. 1954-06-23First ascentF. Ayres, A. Creswell, R. Irwin, D. Michael & L. Ortenburger, 1954-06-23.
            Yanapaccha Norte-9.019626-77.5622895380
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            NW glacier. F; 4h. 1959-07-14First ascentK. Keplingen, U. Staudacher & A Zangerl, 1959-07-14.
            • Sharman pp.46
            • Bohórquez #219
            NW couloir. AD; 1 day. 1978-05-05First ascentJ.P. Balmat, D. Monaci, H. Thivierge & J. Fabre, 1978-05-05.
            Yanapaccja Noroeste5290

            Huandoy

            Huandoy Norte (Tullparaju)-9.02806-77.663896395

            The highest of Huandoy peaks and the highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca (together with Huantsan) after two Huascaráns. Mostly climbed from the east side starting from Refugio Peru (hut at 4600m). South Face is 1000m wall of rock and ice. Also possible from laguna Paron (north side, much longer and very difficult). Three main summits can be climbed from a high camp on Huandoy Plateau (5800m).

            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Biggar 2005 pp.69-71
            • Kiendler pp.56-9
            AD/D.
            North face
            Cara N. ED4/EX-/nccs VI-; VI-VII; 1450m, 5 days. 1987-07-02First ascentD. Tic & M. Romih, 1987-07-02.
            East face
            East side climbs on Huandoy Norte are accessed from Refugio Peru by following Pisco normal route (SW ridge) to Pisco moraine camp, then steering left to the glacier. usual camp site is below the north face at ~5200m (3-4h from Pisco moraine camp, quite possible from Refugio Peru in a day). The face is 100m high and objectively relatively safe. Easier proportion is to climb to glacier plateau at 5800m between Sut, Oeste and Norte (camp) and climb thee peak from there via col 6150m between Oeste and Norte. This is also viable descent alternative to rappelling the route (6-8h from plateau camp to Pisco moraine camp).
            NE face (North-North-East Ridge). D+; 45-70°, III; 1200m from the bottom of the couloir. 1-2 days. 1974-07-28First ascentG. de Naurois & M. Parmentier, 1974-07-28.
            Normal route. Easiest route. From the camp on glacier at 5200m. At first 400m couloir to the col (5850m) on the ridge that separates Huandoy Norte from Huandoy Este (mostly 50° last 100m 70°; 3-5h, possible camp). The ridge itself is 50-55° snow/ice for 500m capped with final rock barrier (10m of uiaa III).
            East Face (Cara Este, Ruta Polaca). D+/TD-; 55-80° (mixed, last 3 pitches)°, IV-; 1100m (face), 1500m, 2-3 days round trip from moraine camp. 1976-08-18First ascentJ. Stryczynski & W. Waligora, 1976-08-18.
            Moderately difficult mixed climb.
            East Icefall. AD+; 45°; 2-3 days.
            Normal route. From the camp below east face along 45-degree snow to Huandoy Plateau (5800m) above the icefall (camp, 5-6h from glacier camp). From there to col 6150m between Huandoy Oeste and Norte (2-3h, 45 degree). Up until this point the route is identical to normal route of Huandoy Oeste (East slope & NE ridge).
            South slopes (Pendientes Sur). AD+/D-; 35-45°, III - IV. 1932-01-01First ascentE. Hein & E. Schneider, 1932.
            Moderately steep glacier climb, with some technical challenges in the approach. Severe stone fall danger.
            NW side
            NW face of Huandoy Norte is mostly ice face with rock on the upper part of the face. Vague rocky spur splits the face into WNW and NW faces.
            NW face. Snow/ice, D+; 45-55°, IV+ (mixed, several pitches); 800m, 10-12h. 1971-07-18First ascentJ. Glidden, B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger, 1971-07-18.
            Direct ascent, primarily on snow and ice, with a rock band guarding the top.
            Cara O-NO. D+; 900m, 2/3d. 1959-07-10First ascentR. Schatz & E. Reiss, 1959-07-10.
            Huandoy Oeste-9.035138-77.6698716356
            • Huandoy Oeste (6356m-9.035138-77.669871)
            • P5840 (5840m)
            Probably the least climbed of main Huandoy peaks, despite being the easiest.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            Cara Norte
            North face of Huandoy Oeste is rockier and more difficult then neighboring NW face of Huandoy Norte. Conditions permitting the least technical way to climb Huandoy Oeste from this side would probably be to climb to col between Norte and Oeste and follow the ridge to the summit. However, this is threatened by seracs.
            Cara Norte. D/TD; 75-80°, V+; 900m, 3 days.
            • Tomé pp.118#2
            • AAJ 1986 pp.191
            • Bohórquez #263
            NE Ridge
            East slope & NE Ridge (Arista NE). AD-; 45°; 850m. 1d round trip from plateau camp at 5800m. 1954-07-28First ascentL. Ortenburger, R. Irvin & W. Mathews, 1954-07-28.
            Normal route. The easiest route on Huandoy main summits. From the camp below east face of Norte along 45-degree snow to Huandoy Plateau (5800m) above the icefall (camp, 5-6h from glacier camp). From there to col 6150m between Huandoy Oeste and Norte (2-3h, 45 degree).
            South face
            Contrafuerte Sur. TD+; 1000m.
            Cara SO. TD+; 1000m, 2-3 days. 1978-08-29First ascentN. Jaeger, 1978-08-29.
            Arista Oeste
            Arista Oeste. TD+; 1000m, 5-6 days.
            Huandoy Sur-9.042428-77.655886160
            1900-01-01
            Event
            D.
            NE side
            French route (Cara NE, Astier). TD; 80°, III; 1000m, 8-10h.
            Challenging snow and ice climb on NE face. Camp at 5200m (5-6h from Pisco BC). At first 100m of uiaa III, then 700m of 55° snow/ice diagonally to the central ice gully of summit pyramid (200m of 60-70° and 3m of steep mixed climbing (80°).
            Oro del Inca (Cara NE). ED; VI-, 75-95°; 1000m, 7,5h. 1995-08-09First ascentP. Kozjek, 1995-08-09.
            Arista Este
            Arista Este. TD; 1000m. 1972-08-16First ascentP. Jongen, M. Massenat, G. Sterna & G. Thejlov, 1972-08-16.
            South face
            Overhanging and desperately difficult routes on South face. Well visible to the road running through Llanganuco valley.
            Ruta Francesa. Rock, ED+; V+,A2, 80°; 1000m. 1976-07-22First ascentR. Desmaison, M. Faiure, P. Ottman & J.C. Salomon, 1976-07-22.
            Ruta Japonesa. ED-; A2, 70°; 850m, 12 days. 1976-06-27First ascentK. Kando, M. Yoshino & Y. Hayashi, 1976-06-27.
            Ruta Italiana. ED; A2, 70°; 1000m, 22 days. 1976-07-06First ascentA. Da Poleita & R. Casarotto, 1976-07-06.
            Parete Sur. ED+; 6a,A4, M5+; 900m, 17 days. 2002-08-01First ascentPierrick Keller, Benoit Chanal, François Dupety & Yann Bonneville, 2002-08.
            Candidate for Piolet d'Or.
            SW side
            SW Buttress (Contraforte SO & arista Oeste). D; 50°; 900m. 1964-07-28First ascentH. Abrons, T. Frost, H. Kendall, J. Kendall, I. Ortenburger & L. Ortenburger, 1964-07-28.
            Probably the easiest route on Huandoy summits.
            NW side
            NW Slopes (Cara NO). D; 45°; 1500m, 5h. 1955-07-15First ascentP. Koch & H. Schmidt, 1955-07-15.
            Huandoy Este-9.019329-77.6559666000
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            Arista N. D; 500m, 2-3 days. 1952-08-01First ascentP. Hoessly & F. Hoyt, 1952-08-01.
            Cara N (Cara NE). TD; V+; 500m, 2-3 days. 1985-06-13First ascentD. Butkovic, B. Ognancevic & B. Puzak, 1985-06-13.
            NE ridge
            NE ridge. D+; 550m, 2 days. 1975-08-07First ascentR. Casarotto, F. Piana & S. Martini, 1975-08-07.
            SE side
            Cara SE. TD+; 70-80°; 600m, 2-3 days. 1988-08-05First ascentA. Baker & G.E. Little, 1988-08-05.
            West ridge
            West ridge (Arista Oeste, Corrredor SE & arista SSO). D+; 1300m, 2-3 days. 1969-08-01First ascentJ. Hudson & R. Laba, 1969-08.
            NW face
            HK. TD+; V+, M3/4; 1300m. 2012-08-17First ascentJoshua Larrín & Juliana García, 2012-08-17.
            FA party stopped when gaining north ridge at ~5900m.

            Huascaran

            Huascaran

            Huascarán Sur-9.121389-77.6088896746
            Highest peak in Cordillera Blanca. Normal route via Garganmta is one of the least technical routes on big peaks in the range, however the access to Garganta has ice fall danger and may have difficult crevasses depending on a situation. Escudo is another route that sees some traffic, other routes are seldomly climbed.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Kiendler pp.64-8
            PD/AD.
            North side
            All routes are 1500m long, objectively dangerous, difficult (TD-ED2) and take around 3-4 days.
            Turbera. TD+; M5, A1; 1200m.
            Espanola (Arista NE, NE ridge). TD+; 1350m. 1961-07-18First ascentP. Acuña, A. Pérez, S. Rivas & Fortunato Mautino, 1961-07-18.
            • Bohórquez #298
            • Tomé pp.131#1
            Pilar N & arista NE (Pilar NE, Eslovena). ED; VI+,A1, 90°; 1300m. 1993-07-21First ascentM. Kovač, B. Ložar & T. Petač, 1993-07-21.
            • Bohórquez #299
            • Tomé pp.133#2
            Slovenian route (Kozjek). VI TD+; VI/AI3-4/80°, IV/V; 1300m. 1991-07-14First ascentP. Kozjek, 1991-07-14.
            Combination of Buhler-Wood & Francesa.
            Cara N & arista NE (Buhler-Wood, American route). VI TD; 60-65°, V; 1200m. 1985-07-29First ascentC.P. Buhler & S. Wood, 1985-07-29.
            Probably the easiest route on the face. Serious.
            Francesa (Cara N, arista NE). ED; 1300m. 1985-07-14First ascentB. Grison, 1985-07-14.
            Glaciar NE, cara N (Cascade Este, Cascade de hielo E). Glacier, D; 1150m. 1980-07-07First ascentJ. Agulló, T. Bros, J. Anglès, J. Prunes, R. Biosca & R. Pajares, 1980-07-07.
            East face
            Wide face framed with SE and NE ridges.
            Arista SE (Traversio aristas E, SE & NE). TD; 1800m, 4+ days. 1971-06-21First ascentB. Jenkinson, M. Jones & J. Strang, 1971-06-21.
            via P6040 & P6410.
            Austriaca Directa (Cara Este). TD; V, 70°; 1295m, 4+ days. 1979-08-08First ascentF. Six & A. Indrich, 1979-08-08.
            South side
            Caras S & O del P6432, arista SE. D+; 1800m. 1958-07-29First ascentF. Ayres, H,. Kendall, W.V.G. Matthews,l D. Michael, I. Ortenburger & L.N. Ortenburger, 1958-07-29.
            Arista SSO, arista SE. TD; IV+, 50-85°; 1650m. 1995-06-26First ascentD. Debelak, T. Žerovnik, A: Pepevnik & V. Mlinar, 1995-06-26.
            • Bohórquez #290
            Arista S, arista SE. 1978-08-07First ascentE. van Camp, D. Caise, C. Granduvant, A. Debelobbe & G. Gysen, 1978-08-07.
            • Bohórquez #291
            West side
            Garganta (Glacier Oeste, Ruta N, NW Ridge). Snow/ice, PD/AD/nccs IV 45; II, 45°; 6-8h from Garganta. 3624m, 4-7 days round trip from Musho. 1932-07-20First ascentH. Bernard, P. Barchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin & S. Schneider, 1932-07-20.
            Normal route, classic. Normal route located on the west slope, regarded as one of the easiest technical climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. Possibly serious. Lots of glacier travel with big crevasses. Avalanche danger unavoidable. The key is the access through icefall (45°) to Garganta, the col between South and North summits (5980m, C1 at 4900m, C2 at 5400m). From there to summit snow and ice up to 40°.
            • Johnson pp.122-123
            • Tomé pp.135#6
            • Kiendler #B12
            • Sharman pp.60
            • World Mountaineering pp.146#9
            • Bohórquez #287
            • Biggar 2005 pp.72-3
            Escudo (Shield, West Face, Arista Oeste, Cara O, arista O). Ice, D; 40-60°; 400/1000m. 10h from Garganta camp (5900m). 1969-07-15First ascentW. Broda, J. Merler & Segger, 1969-07-15.
            Started from the climb to Garganta camp via a traverse to the west face. Ice wall known as "Shield" is gained at 6000m. At the top of the ice wall route joins to NW Ridge (normal route) at 6400m.
            Huascarán Norte-9.102563-77.619616655
            Lower of the Huascaran peaks. Name might suggest it would be merely a subsidiary summit. However, it has a primary factor of roughly 650m meters (from Garganta) which should be enough to make it count as independent mountain indeed. Despite being lower than Huascarán Sur, the peak is more important climbing goal than its southern neighbor for those in search of technically challenging climbing. Both NE and north faces have several difficult mixed routes.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Kiendler pp.68-9
            North face
            There are several difficult routes between grades ED1 and ED3 on the 1600m north face of Huascaran Norte: "Casarotto" (ED3) and "Paragot" (ED1) are probably the best known.
            Catalana. ED+; 80-90°, A3; 1350m. 1983-07-20First ascentJ.L. Moreno, J. Tomás & C. Vallés, 1983-07-20.
            Suiza. ED+; 50-90°, 4c-6b; 1300m, 4 days. 1986-05-23First ascentD. Anker & K. Saurer, 1986-05-23.
            Casarotto (Italian Direttissima). ED3; A2/3,VI+; 1350m. 1977-06-21First ascentRenato Casarotto, 1977-06-21.
            Paragot (North Peak French Route). Mixed, ED1; 80-90°, V-,A1/V+; 1600m. 1966-07-10First ascentR. Jacob, C. Jaccoux, D. Leprince-Ringuet & Robert Paragot, 1966-07-10.
            Classic. Classic hard route, relatively often climbed. Steep ice, lots of mixed climbing and difficult rock.
            • Johnson pp.112-3
            • American Alpine Journal, year: 1967.
            • Tomé pp.132#6
            • Sharman pp.55
            • World Mountaineering pp.146#7
            • Bohórquez #280
            • Biggar 2005 pp.72-3
            Cara NO, arista NO. ED+; 60°, V; 1350m. 1981-07-26First ascentJ. de Skeeper, 1981-07-26.
            • Bohórquez #279
            NE ridge
            Long ridge separating North and NE faces.
            Arista NE. TD+; IV-V; 1300, 4-5 days. 1972-08-18First ascentR. Coëne, M. Fevrier, J. Fréhel & J.F. Porret, 1972-08-18.
            NE face
            Somewhat easier than the North face. Classic routes include "French Direct" on NE Face (TD/ED, uiaa V,A2, 60°), and NE Ridge (ED1, uiaa V, 65°))
            French Direct. TD+; V+,A2, 60°; 1350m, 2+ days. 1973-08-18First ascentMaurice Barrand, Liliane Barrand, L. Desnivières, G. Norbaud & J.J. Ricouard, 1973-08-18.
            Variante Cara NE. 1980-06-21First ascentY. Astier & J.M. Boucansaud, 1980-06-21.
            • Bohórquez #286
            South side
            Garganta (South Ridge, South slopes from Garganta, Arista Sur). Snow/ice, PD+/AD-; 30-40°; 650m, 6-7h from Garganta. 3624m, 4-7 days round trip from Musho. 1908-09-02First ascentA. Peck, R. Taugwalder & G. zum Taugwald, 1908-09-02.
            Normal route. Base camp at 4150m. Lots of glacier travel with big crevasses. Avalanche danger unavoidable. The key is the access through icefall (45°) to Garganta, the col between South and North summits (5980m, C1 at 4900m, C2 at 5400m).
            • Johnson pp.120-1
            • Tomé pp.135#6
            • Kiendler #B11
            • Tomé pp.132#9
            • Sharman pp.57
            • World Mountaineering pp.146#1
            • Bohórquez #276
            • Biggar 2005 pp.72-3
            NW side
            Ruta Italiana (Arista NO, Arista O). TD+; V,A1; 1350m, 2-4 days from the camp at 4800m. 1974-07-25First ascentE. Detonasi, C. Piazzo, D. Saettone & R. Vidone, 1974-07-25.
            Arista NO, arista O (Cara NO). TD; 60°; 1350m. 1978-06-08First ascentI. Lesjak, F. Knez & M. Culk, 1978-06-08.
            • Bohórquez #278

            Chopicalqui

            Chopicalqui-9.086667-77.5738896345
            Chopicalqui is possibly the most climbed 6000m peak in Cordillera Blanca. The peak has four main ridges, long NW ridge with North summit from Portachuelo de Llanganuco, NE and East ridges (the latter with P5575/Chopicalqui Este) and SW ridge from col between Huascarán Sur and Chopicalqui (5400m, with P5666). West face bordered by NW and SW ridges facing facing quebrada Ancosh is the most climbed feature. SW Ridge is the normal route and among the more popular routes in the range. NW ridge via north summit is far more difficult proposition. There are several more routes on the face joining either one of the ridges. Significantly more difficult SE ridge also sees some traffic.
            1900-01-01
            Event
              • Radehose pp.98
              • Kiendler pp.59-63
              NE side
              East side
              East ridge (Arista Este). Snow/rock, TD+/ED-; 1000m, 3-4 days. 1982-08-25First ascentChappaz, R. Desmaison, A. Vagne & M. Arizzi, 1982-08-25.
              SE side
              SE ridge (Arista SE, East face Direct). Snow/rock, TD; V, 80°; 950/2050m, 4-5 days round trip from Huaraz. 1969-06-20First ascentM. Clarbrough & G. Wyatt, 1969-06-20.
              • Bohórquez #309
              • Johnson pp.132-3
              • NZ Alpine Journal 1970
              • Tomé pp.141#9
              • Sharman pp.62
              South side
              Pendientes SE (var. Arista SO). Glacier, AD; 1200m, 2-3 days. 1961-07-18First ascentG. Kämpfe & C. Shiel, 1961-07-18.
              Cara S, arista O (Cara Sur). Snow/rock, TD; 1200m, 2-3 days. 1979-08-08First ascentY. Uejima & H. Kamuro, 1979-08-08.
              West side
              The west side of Chopicalqui is bordered by NW ridge with Chopicalqui Norte forming the left hand border and SW ridge forming the right hand border. The face in between has several routes that join either one of the ridges before reaching the summit. Several of the routes end at lower north summit, from where it is possible to continue tio main summit along NW ridge.
              SW ridge (Arista SO). Glacier, IV AD; 65°; 760m, 5-7h from high camp. Total 2150m. 1-2 days round trip from moraine camp (4800m). Col camp at 5600m. 1932-08-03First ascentH. Hoerlin, E. Schneider, P. Borchens & E. Hein, 1932-08-03.
              Normal route, classic. Easiest and most frequented route on 6000m peak from quebrada Llanganuco. Grading seems to vary a great deal between different sources (PD-D). Generally moraine camp is placed on glacier moraine at 4800m (3-5 from the road) and col at 5600m (2-4h from moraine camp).
              • Johnson pp.106-7
              • Frimer pp.40-1
              • Tomé pp.140#6
              • Kiendler #B10
              • Sharman pp.62
              • Bohórquez #319
              • Biggar 2005 pp.75
              Cara Oeste. Snow/rock, TD; 1100m, 2+ days. 1982-06-22First ascentF. Knez & M. Freser, 1982-06-22.
              NW side
              Difficult routes on NW and W faces.
              NW Ridge (Arista NO). Snow/rock, TD+; 50-60°; 1300m, 2-3 days. 1969-07-12First ascentA. Cooper, B. Everett, J. Janney & W. Phillips, 1969-07-12.
              • A 3-day ride with Señor Chopicalqui. In the case of the Nevado Chopicalqui (6345m), it was a simple picture that awoke our curiosity, even before we knew where the Cordillera Blanca was. To us, the Northwest ridge seemed to be a perfect climb, combining a beautiful mountain with technical difficulties (TD, 2-3 days, source Biggar 1996/ Reedition 2005). By kenzderbenz at Rock 'n' Ice in the Andes on 2012-09-23.
              Espolón O-NO. Snow/rock, TD+; V+; 1300m, 2+ days. 1981-07-02First ascentM. Rolland, J.J. Rolland, A. Roberts & H. Sigayret, 1981-07-02.
              Cara NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 1300m, 2+ days. 1982-07-24First ascentE. Dossin, 1982-07-24.
            Chopicalqui Norte-9.0790-77.57726050
            Located on NW ridge of Chopicalqui. It is possible to continue from Chopicalqui Norte to main summit along NW ridge.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North face
            Mixed face towards quebrada Llanganuco and Portachuelo de Llanganuco. There are several routes leading to summit from where it is possible to continue from Chopicalqui Norte to main summit along NW ridge.
            Mirton Extreme (Cara Norte). Snow/rock, TD+; 800m, 2+ days. 1998-01-01First ascentP. Kozjek, 1998.
            • Tomé pp.138#1
            • Bohórquez #320
            NW side
            Arista NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 1000m, 2+ days. 1969-07-12First ascentA. Cooper, B. Everett, J. Janney & W. Phillips, 1969-07-12.
            Cara NO & Arista NO. Snow/rock, TD; 1100m, 2+ days. 1986-05-25First ascentD. Tic & M. Romih, 1986-05-25.
            Cara NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 1100m, 2+ days. 1982-07-24First ascentE. Dossin, 1982-07-24.
            Espolón O-NO. Snow/rock, TD+; 1000m, 2+ days. 1981-07-02First ascentM. Rolland, J.J. Rolland, A. Roberts & H. Sigayret, 1981-07-02.

            Copa

            Conrahierbas

            Cajavilca

            Cajavilca I-9.0940-77.48475775
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            Arista Norte. Glacier, PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1966-07-27First ascentJohn Ricker & Lisle Irwin, 1966-07-27.
            FA party climbed Cajavilca II from where they traversed to Cajavilca I.
            Cajavilca II-9.0872-77.48295675
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            Arista NO. Glacier, PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1966-07-22First ascentJohn Ricker & Lisle Irwin, 1966-07-22.
            FA party climbed Cajavilca II from where they traversed to Cajavilca I.
            Cajavilca III-9.0819-77.47915419
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            Glaciar Norte. Glacier, PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1966-07-01First ascentJohn Ricker & Lisle Irwin, 1966-07.
            SE face
            SE face. AD+; 70°; 550m. 2007-01-01First ascentTony Barton & John Pearson, 2007.
            • New places, new faces in the Cordillera Blanca. Although the mountains north and east of Huaraz must rank as some of the most frequented in South America, Peru's Cordillera Blanca still holds many secrets. Tony Barton from the UK, on his sixth trip to Peru, recently climbed two new routes in rarely visited areas. With John Pearson, a current Huaraz resident, he traveled to the jungle side of the range and from there approached the Contrahierbas Massif from the northeast. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2007-09-27.

            Conrahierbas

            Contrahierbas (Yanaraju, Ruriqocha)-9.105868-77.4903125954
            Vast mountain that is very seldomly climbed. Not too technical, but tricky crevasses need to be negotiated.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Yuraq Janka pp.87
            Arista N-NE
            Arista N-NE. Glacier, AD; 1000m, 2 days. 1939-05-28First ascentS. Rorhrer, K, Schmid & H. Schweizer, 1939-05-28.
            • Tomé pp.145#2
            • Sharman pp.64
            • Biggar 2005 pp.76
            East face
            • New places, new faces in the Cordillera Blanca. Although the mountains north and east of Huaraz must rank as some of the most frequented in South America, Peru's Cordillera Blanca still holds many secrets. Tony Barton from the UK, on his sixth trip to Peru, recently climbed two new routes in rarely visited areas. With John Pearson, a current Huaraz resident, he traveled to the jungle side of the range and from there approached the Contrahierbas Massif from the northeast. By Lindsay Griffin at Alpinist on 2007-09-27.
            SW ridge
            Long ridge from Punta Olimpica with P5480 and P5609.
            Arista NO
            Arista NO (NW ridge). Glacier, AD; 1000m, 2 days. 1958-07-20First ascentF. Ayres, H. Kendall, W. Mathews, D. Michael, I. Ortenburger, L. Ortenburger & G. Whitmore, 1958-07-20.

            Ulta

            Ulta-9.1491-77.52245875
            Difficult from all sides, supposedly comparable in difficulty to Taulliraju but less famous. Established climbs are to be found on NE and particularly NW faces.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Sharman pp.65
            • Biggar 2005 pp.76
            North ridge
            Long ridge from Punta Olimpica with P.5325 and P.5375 (Ako).
            Cara NE
            Cara NE (NE ridge). Mixed, TD; 1000m, 2-3 days. 1961-01-01First ascentK. Bogner,G. Kampfe,R. Hechtel & D. Liska, 1961.
            East ridge
            Long ridge separating quebrada Cancaraca Chica in the north and quebrada Cancaraca Grande in the south.
            East ridge. TD. 1981-01-01First ascentWaldo McQuiod, 1981.
            South ridge
            From the col between Ulta and Chugllaraju.
            Cara NO
            Cara NO. Mixed, TD+; 1000m. 1977-08-18First ascentO. Danson & D. Cheesemond, 1977-08-18.
            NW face Direct. ED2; 1000m. 2002-06-08First ascentNick Bullock, 2002-06-08.
            NW face Direct. ED1; Sco VI; 1000m, 3 days. 2002-06-10First ascentAl Powell & Owen Samuel, 2002-06-10.
            Personal Jesus. ED2; 5.9, M7; 1000m. 2003-08-20First ascentKelly Cordes & Jim Earl, 2003-08-20.
            Andinista-Rifnik. TD+/ED; VI, WI4+; 650m, 18h. 2008-07-18First ascentAritza Montasterio & Viktor Mlinar, 2008-07-18.
            Chugllaraju-9.1587-77.52855585
            Located immediately SW to Ulta. The peaks has three main ridges: NE ridge from Ulta-Chugllaraju col, S(W) ridge from Chugllaraju-Cancaracá col and west ridge dividing the west side to NE and West faces. Plenty of room for new routes.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            NE side
            Cara NO. Snow, D; 700m, 1-2 days. 1961-07-12First ascentK. Bogner, E. Erdmann & C. Schiel, 1961-07-12.
            West side
            West face. Snow, TD-; Sco 5/60-85°; 350m, 9 pitches. 2005-01-01First ascentTony Barton & John Pearson, 2005.
            Cancaracá-9.1740-77.53355512
            1900-01-01
            Event
            West side
            Arista Oeste. Glacier, TD; 600m, 2-3 days. 1973-07-27First ascentG. Bianchi, C. Nembrini & F. Robecchi, 1973-07-27.
            Chequiaraju-9.1732-77.55805286
            Located between Ulta and Hualcan, on the spur left from Cancarraca at the start of quebrada Ulta Ulta on its east side. Western aspect is accessible from quebrada Ulta, NE from laguna Huallcacocha and SE from quebrada Gatay (Laguna Auquiscocha). Little visited but appears to be ideal for acclimatization and practicable to do so in 2 or 3 days.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            • Sharman pp.65
            East side
            East side. F. 1960-07-01First ascentM. Angeles, E. Bauer, D. Brown, C. Heller, H. Kendall, J. Lomont, P. Morales & O. Zuniga, 1960-07.
            • Biggar 2005 pp.77
            • Sharman pp.66

            Hualcan

            Hualcan Este (Wallqan, Hualcan)-9.2048-77.51886160
            Together with nearby Copa, Hualcan forms a large glacier plateau which is reputedly the best place in Cordillera Blanca for ski mountaineering. East side is little explored despite not being too remote.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            AD/D.
            South side
            South Ridge from West glacier (Arista Sur). AD+; 1100m, 5-7h from high camp. 1939-08-01First ascentS. Rohrer & K. Schmid, 1939-08.
            Camp on west glacier at 5200m.
            • Kiendler #B13
            • Tomé pp.151#2
            • Sharman pp.66
            • Biggar 2005 pp.77
            Arista SO (SW ridge). D; 50-60°; 1100m. 1975-07-07First ascentJ. Curry Slaymaker & David Ciochetti, 1975-07-07.
            Traverse from West summit (Oeste) to main summit.
            Hualcan Oeste-9.2054-77.52476104
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Sharman pp.66
            South side
            Arista NE. PD; 1000m, 2-3 days.
            • Tomé pp.151#2
            Arista SO. PD; 50-55°; 1000m, 2-3 days. 1975-07-07First ascentJ. Curry Slaymaker & David Ciochetti, 1975-07-07.
            Same route as Arista SO on Hualcan Este until the west summit.
            • Tomé pp.151#1

            Copa

            Copa Sur (Copa)-9.2700-77.48126188
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Sharman pp.67
            PD/AD.
            South side
            SE face (Cara E, arista SO). AD/D. 1962-07-11First ascentD. Anderson, J. Humphrey & J. Richardson, 1962-07-11.
            South ridge. 80°; 1500m.
            Mostro Africano. ED; V WI6; 800m. 2003-01-01Copa Sur, Mostro Africano, First ascent , 2003.
            West side
            West slopes (Rampas del Oeste). PD/AD; 45°; 1100m, 9-10h. 1932-09-26First ascentE. Hein & E. Schneider, 1932-09-26.
            • Johnson pp.140-1
            • Kiendler #B14
            • Tomé pp.152#1
            • Sharman pp.67
            Copa Norte-9.255292-77.4797986125
            1900-01-01
            Event
            PD.
            South Ridge
            South Ridge (Arista Sur). AD; 1100m, 2-3h. 1964-06-30First ascentH. Abrons, L. & I. Ortenburger, 1964-06-30.
            West side
            Rampas Oeste. PD-; 1100m, 3 days. 1932-01-01First ascentP. Borchers, E. Hein, H. Hoerlin, H. Kinzl & E. Schneider, 1932.
            • Tomé pp.152#1
            • Sharman pp.67
            Vicos (Paccharuri)-9.2935-77.48645525
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Sharman pp.67
            • Biggar 2005 pp.78
            North side
            Rampas N-NO. F; 40°; 700m, 1 day. 1952-07-17First ascentA. Morales, A. Gamara, J. Mariategui, J. Torres, J. Vidal & Vidal, 1952-07-17.
            • Tomé pp.153#1
            South side
            S-N traverse. F; 40°; 6h.

            Paccharaju

            Paccharaju-9.2752-77.43225741
            1900-01-01
            Event
            South side
            SW ridge. AD; 50°; 1000m, 4-5h. 1991-07-28First ascentG. Feichtenschlager & D.M. Sharman, 1991-07-28.
            • Tomé pp.153#2
            SW slopes (Rampas SO). AD; 60°; 1000m, 3-4h. 1962-07-04First ascentD. Anderson, L. Carter, J. Richardson, M. Carter, P. Carter, R. Goody, J. Humphreys, M. McDade & C. Staples, 1962-07-04.
            The original ascent of this face by Americans in 1962 was grade Alpine F but conditions have changed dramatically. Huge rimaye (80) blocks the access to the face (two pitches of 60).
            • Tomé pp.153#1
            • Sharman pp.68
            Paccharaju Norte I-9.2710-77.43675665
            1900-01-01
            Event
            South side
            SW face. PD+; 45°; 1000m, 1 day. 1962-07-04First ascentD. Anderson, L. Carter & J. Richardson, 1962-07-04.
            Paccharaju Norte II5600
            1900-01-01
            Event
            South side
            South face. PD; 900m, 1 day. 1962-07-05First ascentR. Goody, J. Humphreys, C. Staples, P. Carter & J. Richardson, 1962-07-05.
            Atlante-9.2758-77.41835465
            1900-01-01
            Event
            SE side
            SE side. PD; 600m, 1 day roundtrip. 1968-08-03First ascentA. Ketchin & G. Ziegler, 1968-08-03.

            Perlilla

            Copap

            Copap I (Yanatsilca Norte, Qupap)-9.3085-77.31245579
            • Sharman pp.69-70
            Copap II (Yanatsilca Sur)-9.3106-77.31445567
            • Sharman pp.69-70
            Copap IV (Condormina Sur)-9.3284-77.31845566
            1900-01-01
            Event
            NW side
            Arista NO. PD; 700m, 12h. 1971-07-19First ascentM. Dupert, J. Jaunin, L. Rentchnik & P. Stanko, 1971-07-19.
            • Sharman pp.69-70
            Copap III (Condormina Norte)-9.3228-77.32065551
            • Sharman pp.69-70
            Copap V5300
            1900-01-01
            Event
            South side
            Rampas Sur (South slopes). F; 500m, 1 day. 1973-08-01First ascentD. Baumford & R. Rowlands, 1973-08.
            • Sharman pp.69-70
            NW side
            Rampas NO. F; 500m, 1 day.

            Perlilla

            Perlilla-9.2904-77.31525587
            1900-01-01
            Event
            South ridge
            South ridge. F. 1966-07-14First ascentM. Ishinabe, A. Kurihara, A. Miyahara, S. Ooe & T. Suzuki, 1966-07-14.

            Chinchey

            Tocllaraju group

            Hatun Ulloc

            Hatun Ulloc (Ishinca Tower)4800
            1900-01-01
            Event
            Ishinca Tower
            Karma de Los Condores. Rock, nccs IV 5.11d; 9 pitches. 2005-01-01First ascentWayne Crill & Kevin Gallagher, 2005.
            Karma de Los Condores Direct. Rock, nccs V 5.11+R; 14 pitches. 2008-01-01First ascentDave Anderson & Brady Robinson, 2008.
            East Face
            Compañia Vertical. Rock, 5.12b/7b, 6b obl.; 200m. 2006-01-01First ascentHans-Martin Troebs & Marc Wolff, 2006.
            Ishik Ulloc (Ulloc Chico)
            1900-01-01
            Event
            Con Ojeras Debajo de Ojos Vidriosos. 5.10+ C2; 180m. 2006-06-01First ascentAlexander Schmalz-Friedberger & Michael Zettelmeyer, 2006-06.
            Lawak. 5.11 A1. 2005-06-25First ascentMarco Serra, Carlos Macotela & José Guerrero, 2005-06-25.

            Urus

            Urus Central-9.35714-77.447925495
            1900-01-01
            Event
            SE side
            Vertiente SE. PD; 1 day. 1974-11-13First ascentA. Morales & C. Morales, 1974-11-13.
            • Tomé pp.168#1
            • Sharman pp.76
            El Vuelo del Inca. Ice/mixed, TD+; 6a, M5/70-90°; 360m. 2010-09-17First ascentBeto Pinto & Eric Albino, 2010-09-17.
            Urus Oeste-9.3611-77.45585450
            1900-01-01
            Event
            SE side
            Vertiente SE. 1-2h from high camp. 1963-08-03First ascentG. Apotheloz, D. Bach, A. Bezinge, G. de Rham, J Fatton & C. Jaquet, 1963-08-03.
            • Tomé pp.168#1
            • Sharman pp.76
            East Face
            Cara Este. PD+; 1 day (1-2h from high camp). 1968-07-04First ascentF. Luchsinger & A. Zimmerli, 1968-07-04.
            • Tomé pp.168#2
            Urus Este-9.3548-77.43585420
            Located to SW of Tocllaraju. Este is one of the most commonly climbed peaks in Cordillera Blanca.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            South face
            Cara Sur. TD-; 1 day. 1998-09-10First ascentN. Campitelli & M. Santoano, 1998-09-10.
            • Tomé pp.169#1
            • Sharman pp.76
            South ridge. nccs IV M4 80; 70°. 2004-01-01First ascentSmith Curry & Jason Foote, 2004.
            Glaciar Sur. AD+; 50-60°; 1 day. 1994-07-07First ascentD. Gómez & D. Mascarelli, 1994-07-07.
            Shorter and more direct route than normal route (SE slopes to east ridge) climbing the small glacier below steep rock face, then joins east ridge at about mid height. It is also possible to climb immediately left of the rocky spur on the RHS of the glacier.
            • Tomé pp.169#2
            • Sharman pp.76
            SE slopes to east ridge (lado SE y arista NE). Snow, III PD-/nccs III 45-50°; 45-50°; 1040m, 5-6h from BC. 1957-07-18First ascentV. Day, E. Henastoza, A. Jamanca, T. McCormack & A. Morales, 1957-07-18.
            Normal route, classic. Highly frequented route. Climbs to col between Urus Este and sharp rock peak on the east ridge immediately left of the peak, then follows East ridge to the summit.
            NW Ridge
            NW Ridge (Arista NO). nccs III 45°/PD-; 700/1130m.
            • Sharman pp.76

            Tocllaraju

            Tocllaraju (Tuqllarahu)-9.347448-77.3968065980

            Ice fluted pyramid located at the end of Ishinca valley in the central Cordillera Blanca. The peak has four main ridges: NW ridge towards Akillpo, NE ridge towards Mina Arequipa, East ridge and South ridge with Tocllaraju Sur (5670m) from Tocllaraju-Palcaraju Oeste col. Almost solely climbed from the west side facing Quebrada Ishinca (high camp at 5200m). NW ridge is one of the most popular climbs on 6000m peaks of Cordillera Blanca (2 days from Ishinca BC). More difficult West face also sees frequent traffic. No recorded routes from the east side.

            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Radehose pp.106
            • Kiendler pp.70-4
            AD.
            NE Ridge (Arista Norte)
            NE Ridge. D+; 70°. 1963-01-01First ascentDaniel Bach, Albert Bezinge, Jean-Jacques Fatton & Carlo Jaquet, 1963.
            From Quebrada Ishinca (5200m) traverse under W(SW) face to gain the ridge. Summit mushroom is steep (70°).
            NW Ridge (Arista NO)
            NW Ridge (Arista NO). Snow/ice, III AD+/D/nccs III 50-55°; 50-55° (100m, rimaye wall 60-70°)°; 1032m, 5-7h. 2 days round trip from BC. 1939-07-31First ascentBrecht & Schweizer, 1939-07-31.
            Normal route, classic. Classic snow climb from Ishinca BC, high camp at 5200m. Getting to the ridge at the start of the route varies. Gaining it from the glacier basin below West face is shorter but may be difficult and/or dangerous due to seracs.
            • Johnson pp.150-1
            • Tomé pp.170#2
            • Kiendler #B15
            • Sharman pp.77
            West face
            Frames by NW and south ridges, By far the most often climbed aspect of the peak.
            WSW Face (Cara Oeste, Arista Sur). D-; 65°; 500m, 6h. 1980-05-01First ascentA. Fisher, B. White, R. Blatherwick & H. Colonia, 1980-05.
            Comparable in difficulty to Ferrari route on Alpamayo but not plaqued by the crowds. Climbed from Ishinca Camp, high camp at 5200m.
            West Face Direct (Cara Oeste directa). IV D+/nccs V; AI3/70°; 600m/1100m. 1980-07-15First ascentG. Calcagno, M. Carara, G. Lafranconi & C. Zappelli, 1980-07-15.
            Classic. Normally steep ice climbing through a serac barrier. Climbed from Ishinca Camp (5200m).
            Tocllaraju Sur, West face
            Ratz Fatz. TD-; 75°. 2000-07-25First ascentEduardo Mondragón & Martin Waldhoer, 2000-07-25.

            Akillpo

            Akilpo (Akillpo, Aquilpo)-9.3241-77.41605560
            • Akilpo Norte (5560m-9.3241-77.4160)
            • Akilpo Sur (5520m)
            1900-01-01
            Event
            Sur, East side
            Arista SE. F; 1 day. 1963-07-14First ascentJ. Fullop, S. Turner & R. Watne, 1963-07-14.
            Arista NE. F; 1 day. 1965-07-28First ascentJ. Graafland & F. Kleine, 1965-07-28.
            • Sharman pp.76
            • Tome pp.167.2
            Norte, East side
            Cara este. F; 1 day. 1968-07-12First ascentS. Matsushima, K. Yamaguchi & Y. Yoda, 1968-07-12.

            Chinchey group

            Palcaraju

            Palcaraju Centro (Pallqarahu, Cuchilla)-9.3619-77.36826200
            1900-01-01
            Event
            AD.
            North side
            Cara NO. D+. 1964-07-10First ascentH. Abrons, D. Doody, T. Frost, H. Hultgren, H. Kendall, J. Kendall, J. Ortenburg & L. Ortenburg, 1964-07-10.
            North Face & NE Ridge (Cara Norte & Arista NE). D. 1939-06-07First ascentW. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer, 1939-06-07.
            • Tomé pp.173#2
            • Sharman pp.77
            SE Ridge from North
            SE Ridge. TD. 1977-07-20First ascentN. Jaeger, 1977-07-20.
            From Pucaranra-Palcaraju col via Palcaraju Sur to main summit.
            South face (Cara Sur)
            South face (Cara Sur & Arista SE). TD+; 60-80°. 1980-07-17First ascentY-C. Sonnenwil, P. Morand & E. Loretan, 1980-07-17.
            Access from Quebrada Cojup.
            SW side
            SW Face (Cara SO). D. 1965-08-03First ascentK. Baker, G. Holdwoth, L. Irwin & J. Ricker, 1965-08-03.
            West Ridge. ED; 70-75°. 1987-06-30First ascentP. Poljanec & Zarko Trusnovec, 1987-06-30.
            Palcaraju Oeste-9.3704-77.38376110
            1900-01-01
            Event
            West side
            West face of Palcaraju Oeste framed with NW Ridge from col between Tocllaraju and Palcaraju Oeste and SW ridge from col between Ishinca and Palcaraju Oeste marks the end of Quebrada Ishinca.
            SW Ridge. AD+; 2 days.
            • Sharman pp.77
            • Tome pp.173.1
            South side
            Tempête de Joie. TD/TD+; 600m, 12 pitches. 1999-01-01First ascentFrédéric Bréhédon & Benoît Peyronnard, 1999.
            Horne-Weiss Memorial route. 800m. 2012-01-01First ascentGil Weiss & Ben Horne, 2012.
            First ascent party died during the descend on West ridge.
            Palcaraju Sur-9.3728-77.36965900
            1900-01-01
            Event
            Arista Sur
            Arista Sur. TD; IV. 1977-07-20First ascentN. Jaeger, 1977-07-20.

            Chinchey

            Chinchey-9.3813-77.33066222
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            West Face to North ridge (Arista Norte). PD+/AD-; 55°; 3-4 day roundtrip from meadow camp. 1939-08-02First ascentW. Brecht & H. Schweizer, 1939-08-02.
            High camp in Chinchey-Pucaranra col (5550m).
            • Johnson pp.184-5
            • Tomé pp.181#1
            • Kiendler #B17
            • Sharman pp.71
            Cara NO. 1977-07-15First ascentC. Stark, P. Weidman & A. Webster, 1977-07-15.
            • Tomé pp.181#2
            East side
            Vertiente E, Arista N. D+; 3 days. 1973-07-08First ascentJ. Chandler, R. Ridgeway, H. Eldridge & E. Fisger, 1973-07-08.
            West side
            Arista O. D+. 1958-08-17First ascentM. Emslies, M. Simpson & W. Wallace, 1958-08-17.
            • Tomé pp.181#3
            Cara O. D+. 1975-06-26First ascentR. Boyd, B. Wagstaff, K. Gerdes & P. Tamm, 1975-06-26.
            Pucaranra-9.3888-77.35076156
            Bulky mountain at the head of Quebrada Cojup.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Kiendler pp.79
            NE side
            NNE ridge (Arista E-NE). D-; 2-3 days. 1959-07-17First ascentL. Ortenburger & K. Ross, 1959-07-17.
            SE ridge
            SE Ridge (Arista SE). AD+; 50°; 10h from the high camp. 1948-07-05First ascentL. Lauterburg, F. Marmillod, R. Schmid & F. Sigrist, 1948-07-05.
            • Tomé pp.176#3
            • Kiendler #B19
            • Sharman pp.78
            • Biggar pp.83
            SE face
            SE Face (Cara SE). AD+; 50-55°; 2 days. 1959-07-23First ascentC. Kogan, V. Morenao, A. Lambert, Y. Lambert & C. van der Stratten, 1959-07-23.
            • Tomé pp.177#4
            • Sharman pp.78
            • Biggar pp.83
            SW ridge
            SW Ridge (Arista SO). D-. 1965-08-17First ascentK. Baker & G. Holdsworth, 1965-08-17.
            West side
            NW Ridge. TD; 70°. 1977-06-19First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1977-06-19.
            West Face (Cara Oeste). D+; 70°. 1975-07-04First ascentM. Cohen & T. Parlane, 1975-07-04.
            Puntancueno (Chinchey Este)-9.3787-77.32186000
            1900-01-01
            Event
            East side
            Cara E, arista NE. D+; 3 days. 1982-08-21First ascentA. Tordoya & A: Ortega, 1982-08-21.
            Pamparaju (Chinchey Norte I)-9.3644-77.33255987
            1900-01-01
            Event
            South side
            Arista N. AD+; 2-3 days. 1967-06-20First ascentR. Kirch, A. Landa, F. Lusarreta & A. Rosen, 1967-06-20.
            Tullparaju-9.4029-77.31585787
            • Tullparaju (5787m-9.4029-77.3158)
            • Tullparaju Sur (Gallohuaganan) (5456m)
            The highest of Huandoy peaks and the highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca (together with Huantsan) after two Huascaráns. Mostly climbed from the east side starting from Refugio Peru (hut at 4600m). South Face is 1000m wall of rock and ice. Also possible from laguna Paron (north side, much longer and very difficult). Three main summits can be climbed from a high camp on Huandoy Plateau (5800m).
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Biggar 2005 pp.69-71
            • Kiendler pp.56-9
            • Sharman pp.72
            North face
            Cara N. ED4/EX-/nccs VI-; VI-VII; 1450m, 5 days. 1987-07-02First ascentD. Tic & M. Romih, 1987-07-02.
            East face
            East side climbs on Huandoy Norte are accessed from Refugio Peru by following Pisco normal route (SW ridge) to Pisco moraine camp, then steering left to the glacier. usual camp site is below the north face at ~5200m (3-4h from Pisco moraine camp, quite possible from Refugio Peru in a day). The face is 100m high and objectively relatively safe. Easier proportion is to climb to glacier plateau at 5800m between Sut, Oeste and Norte (camp) and climb thee peak from there via col 6150m between Oeste and Norte. This is also viable descent alternative to rappelling the route (6-8h from plateau camp to Pisco moraine camp).
            NE face (North-North-East Ridge). D+; 45-70°, III; 1200m from the bottom of the couloir. 1-2 days. 1974-07-28First ascentG. de Naurois & M. Parmentier, 1974-07-28.
            Normal route. Easiest route. From the camp on glacier at 5200m. At first 400m couloir to the col (5850m) on the ridge that separates Huandoy Norte from Huandoy Este (mostly 50° last 100m 70°; 3-5h, possible camp). The ridge itself is 50-55° snow/ice for 500m capped with final rock barrier (10m of uiaa III).
            East Face (Cara Este, Ruta Polaca). D+/TD-; 55-80° (mixed, last 3 pitches)°, IV-; 1100m (face), 1500m, 2-3 days round trip from moraine camp. 1976-08-18First ascentJ. Stryczynski & W. Waligora, 1976-08-18.
            Moderately difficult mixed climb.
            East Icefall. AD+; 45°; 2-3 days.
            Normal route. From the camp below east face along 45-degree snow to Huandoy Plateau (5800m) above the icefall (camp, 5-6h from glacier camp). From there to col 6150m between Huandoy Oeste and Norte (2-3h, 45 degree). Up until this point the route is identical to normal route of Huandoy Oeste (East slope & NE ridge).
            South slopes (Pendientes Sur). AD+/D-; 35-45°, III - IV. 1932-01-01First ascentE. Hein & E. Schneider, 1932.
            Moderately steep glacier climb, with some technical challenges in the approach. Severe stone fall danger.
            NW side
            NW face of Huandoy Norte is mostly ice face with rock on the upper part of the face. Vague rocky spur splits the face into WNW and NW faces.
            NW face. Snow/ice, D+; 45-55°, IV+ (mixed, several pitches); 800m, 10-12h. 1971-07-18First ascentJ. Glidden, B. Janis, G. Lowe, M. Lowe & L. Ortenburger, 1971-07-18.
            Direct ascent, primarily on snow and ice, with a rock band guarding the top.
            Cara O-NO. D+; 900m, 2/3d. 1959-07-10First ascentR. Schatz & E. Reiss, 1959-07-10.
            East side
            Arista O. D; 45/70°, III; 2 days. 1962-07-24First ascentD. Bernays, L. Patterson & Y. Sawyer, 1962-07-24.
            Sur, NNW ridge
            Arista N-NO. AD; 2 days. 1958-07-03First ascentG. Dionisi, P. Fornelli, L. Ghigo & G. Marchese, 1958-07-03.
            • Tomé pp.182#1
            Ayucaraju (Chinchey Norte II)-9.3566-77.33325647
            1900-01-01
            Event
            North side
            Arista N. AD; 1 day. 1967-06-30First ascentJ. Feliu, R. Kirch, J. Lorente, F. Lusarreta & L. Sáez Olazagoitia, 1967-06-30.
            Utsuraju (Chinchey Norte III)5500
            1900-01-01
            Event
            SW face
            SW face. AD; 1 day. 1967-06-17First ascentJ. Feliu, F. Lusarreta & L. Sáez Olazagoitia, 1967-06-17.

            Cayesh

            Cayesh-9.4397-77.30165721
            Difficult peak with no easy routes to the summit. West face has several steep routes.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            East face
            American. ED; 1000m, 3+ days.
            • Tome pp.184-5
            Slovenian. ED; 1000m, 3+ days.
            • Tome pp.184-5
            West face (Cara Oeste)
            Several routes, all of them difficult (TD+ or more), approximately 650m in height and tend to be serious.
            British. TD+; V+,A2, 85°; 400m. 1986-07-01First ascentJerry Gore & Terry Moore, 1986-07.
            American. TD+; IV-V, 80°; 400m. 1988-07-01First ascentArnow & Fowler, 1988-07.
            Idiomas mixtos (American-Slovenian Direct). ED+; M7+, 6a+; 700m, 11 pitch. 2005-06-08First ascentMarko Prezelj & Steve House, 2005-06-08.
            • Cayesh. Our next destination was the west face of Cayesh. On June 8 we started from the tent a bit before first light and in sixteen and half hours opened a new line between the German and Charlie Fowler routes. By Marko Prezelj at Alpinist on 2005-12-01.
            • Topo of the route on Cayesh
            • Cayesh: The Calling. Cayesh is remarkable for its stunning symmetry, needle-point summit, and mixed rock and ice terrain. We started up our route after an afternoon of reconnaissance with child-like joy, climbing impetuously, spontaneously. We took along the video camera on a whim, and viewing the resulting film, Cayesh: The Calling, re-focuses those memories of being wrapped up in the shared joy of discovering new pitch after new pitch, each one unfolding naturally. By Steve House at The Cleanest Line.
            Czech. TD+; V; 400m. 1986-06-01First ascentHapala & Husicka, 1986-06.
            German route (Ruta Alemana). TD+; VI-, 70°; 700m, 2 day roundtrip from glacier camp. 1988-07-04First ascentM. Roeper & J. Steinsberger, 1988-07-04.
            Most climbed route on the face. Variations established in the upper section.
            South ridge (New Zealand route, Ruta Neozelandesa). TD+/ED; 450m. 1960-01-01First ascentCrawford, Ryan & Stewart, 1960.
            Chilean Route. TD+; WI5 M6/70°; 16pitches. 2016-01-01First ascentJimmy Mora, Francisco Rojas, 2016.
            Maparaju-9.462185-77.3082165326
            Popular acclimatization peak.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            East face
            Cara este. AD; 1 day.
            West side
            SW and W slopes (Arista SO). III F; 45°; 1000m. 1960-07-16First ascentJ. de Paz & L. Stewart, 1960-07-16.
            • Johnson pp.188-9
            • NZ Alpine Journal 1961
            • Tomé pp.189#1
            • Sharman pp.75
            Milpocraju-9.4500-77.30375300
            West side
            SSW Spur. D+; 1d.
            • Sharman pp.75
            Cara Oeste. TD-; 1 day.
            • Tome pp.188.1
            • Sharman pp.75
            Espol O-NO. 1 day.
            • Tome pp.188.3
            • Sharman pp.75
            SE side
            Arista SE. D; 1-2 days.

            Chopiraju

            Chopiraju Central-9.4311-77.32645518
            1900-01-01
            Event
            South face
            Fight Club. WI4 M5/85°; 1 day. 2005-07-27First ascentTobi Lochbuhler & Moritz Walde, 2005-07-27.
            West side
            West ridge. F; 1 day. 1958-01-01First ascentItalian party, 1958.
            • Tomé pp.184
            Chopiraju Oeste-9.4316-77.33165475
            West side
            Arista Oeste. F; 1 day.
            • Tomé pp.184
            Chopiraju Este-9.4279-77.32185446
            West side
            NW side. F; 1 day.
            • Tomé pp.184

            Ranrapalca group

            Ranrapalca

            Ranrapalca-9.4096-77.41706162
            • Ranrapalca (6162m-9.4096-77.4170)
            • Ranrapalca SO (6001m)

            One of the big peaks of Cordillera Blanca and one of the big draws of quebrada Ishinca. All routes are reportedly worthwhile. Relatively often climbed considering that there are no non-technical routes (easiest route is NE face at D).

            Despite the lack of sharp summit, Ranrapalca is majestic mountain rising steeply from each side. The peak has four main faces and ridges. NE ridge rises from Ishinca-Ranrapalca co, East ridge from near laguna Perolcocha, long and aesthetic S(W) ridge separates quebradas Cojup and Llaca and west ridge joins Ranrapala with Ochsalpalca. North and NE faces are accessible from quebrada Ishinca /the latter also from qeubrada Cojup), (South-) East face from Quebrada Cojup and SW face from quebrada Llaca.

            The peak is most often climbed from Ishinca side either via NE face or North face. Routes from quebarada Cojup (SE side) and quebrada Llaca (SW side) are more difficult and see far fewer ascents.

            • Topo on NE and N aspects of Ranrapalca. Base photo taken from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-03 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
              Topo on NE and N aspects of Ranrapalca. Base photo taken from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-03 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
            • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
              Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
            • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
              Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
            • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
              Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
            • Taken from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
              Taken from Ishinca-Ranrapalca col. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
            1900-01-01
            Event
            • Kiendler pp.80-2
            North Face (Cara Norte)
            Peruvian/North-American. TD+; A2. 1997-08-02First ascentEduardo Angulo, Guillermo Mejmia & Patrick Knoll, 1997-08-02.
            • Tome pp.197#9
            Scandinavian Direct. TD/TD+/nccs V 60º 5.8; 75/90°, 5.8. 1997-07-16First ascentSveinung Skoglund & Allan Christensen, 1997-07-16.
            • Tome pp.197#8
            Slovenian. 75. 1996-07-25First ascentAndres Markovic & Zorko Mates, 1996-07-25.
            North Face (Cara Norte). Mixed, D+; 55-60°, III; 900m, 8-10h from the camp below the face. 1975-08-22First ascentM. Johns, C. Slaymaker & M. Rourke, 1975-08-22.
            Classic. Looks much more difficult than it really is. Long face with lots of moderately steep snow & ice with short rock band at the top (10m of UIAA III).
              North Spur. TD; 1000m, 8h. 1994-07-30First ascentJoe Simpson & Rick Potter, 1994-07-30.
              Prominent rocky spur between NE and North faces.
              Learning of our Weaknesses. Mixed, ED; 1000m. 2013-06-01First ascentCarlos Pineda & Carlos Solé, 2013-06.
              Between NE Ridge and North Spur from the highest point of glacier.
              NE Face
              NE Ridge (Arista NE). Mixed, D/TD/nccs V; 8h. 1939-06-25First ascentW. Brecht, S. Rohrer, K. Schmid & H. Schweizer, 1939-06-25.
              • Biggar 2005 pp82-83
              • Tomé pp.195#4
              • Kiendler #B20
              • Sharman pp.82#3
              NE Face (Pendientes NE). Mixed, D; 55°, IV/5.5; 862m, 5-7h. 1958-07-23First ascentG. Dionini, P. Fornelli, L Ghico & G. Marchese, 1958-07-23.
              Normal route, classic. Easiest route and likely the best descend.
              • Johnson pp.160-1
              • Biggar 2005 pp82-83
              • Tomé pp.195#3
              • Kiendler #B20
              • Sharman pp.82#4
              SE side
              East Ridge (SE Ridge, Arista Este). TD+; 65-70°; 800m, 2 days. 1977-06-18First ascentR. Ghillini, B. Prud'homme & J. Bouchard, 1977-06-18.
              South face (Cara Sur). TD; 750m. 1977-06-13First ascentNicolas Jaeger, 1977-06-13.
              La Paliza del Ranrapalca. ED; 50–90/95°; 850m. 2009-08-28First ascentEloy Salazar Obregón, Octavio Salazar Obregón & Eric Albino, 2009-08-28.
              SW side
              SW Ridge (Arista SO). TD; 1000m, 2 days. 1971-07-07First ascentT. Aas, B. Hammeraas, E. Boehlme, K. Bjerge, M. Ekilsen, V. Geir-Hansen & P. Gren, 1971-07-07.
              Beautiful snow ridge easily visible from Huaraz. The ridge is gained at 5350m via SW face, then followed via SW summit (6001m) to main summit.
              SW Face. ED; 1000m.
              • Tomé pp.198#11, 1988#12
              • Sharman pp.83#2
              West Ridge
              West Ridge. TD; 2-3 days. 1980-06-22First ascentY-C. Sonnerwyl, P. Maron & E. Loretan, 1980-06-22.
              Via col between Ochsapalca and Ranrapalca.
              Ishinca-9.39267-77.4064195530
              Popular acclimatization peak. Located in a nest between Palcaraju and Ranrapalca. There are only few routes (Tome guidebook lists three), all of them non-technical (F-PD).
              1900-01-01
              Event
              • Kiendler pp.77-8
              NE Ridge
              NE Ridge. PD-; 1 day. 1965-06-23First ascentW. Basset, J. Hough, C. Satterfield & S. Turner, 1965-06-23.
              From col between Ishinca and Palcaraju Oeste.
              SW side
              SW Ridge (Ruta SO). Mixed/snow, PD-; 60°; 1130m, 6-8h. 1954-05-12First ascentB. Baltazar, C. Fernandez, C. Morales, M. Romero & F. Suazo, 1954-05-12.
              Normal route, classic. From Ishinca BC via laguna Ishinca (camp). Possible high camp in Ishinca-Ranrapalca col (5400m). The crevasse located very close to the summit presents very distinct crux.
              • Johnson pp.158-9
              • Tomé pp.192#2
              • Kiendler #B18
              • Sharman pp.81
              NW side
              NW Slopes (Pendientes del NO). Snow, PD-/nccs III 45°; 700/1130m, 5-6h. 1964-01-01First ascentJ. Fonrouge, W. Lindaver, M. Salger, H. Schmidbauer & V. Staudacher, 1964.
              Normal route, classic. From Ishinca BC via laguna Ishinca.

              Ochsalpalca

              Ochsalpalca
              Ochsapalca-9.408335-77.4349155881
              • Main summit (5881m-9.408335-77.434915)
              • West summit
              Fantastic steep climbing on the several lines on the south face.
              1900-01-01
              Event
              North side
              North Ridge (Arista N). D+; 700m, 5h from the high camp. 1965-07-10First ascentA. Miyashita & T. Sato, 1965-07-10.
              Normal route. Gain the ridge at 5100m. Camp at 5500m.
              NW face. TD-; 90°; 350m, 10 pitches. 2004-01-01First ascentDavid Bruder & Andrés Zeger, 2004.
              South face (Cara Sur)
              Several modern steep ice routes between TD and ED+ and 500-650m. Many climbers abseil down after reaching the summit ridge instead of traversing the difficult ridge to main summit.
              • MI 1999-07 (pp.45)
              Intsumisioa. Ice, IV ED; 500m.
              Gato Blanco. Ice, IV ED; 500m.
              French '95. Ice, IV ED; WI4.
              Rusula de Yungay. Ice, IV ED; 600m.
              • Tomé pp.200#5
              Swiss-Canadian (Suizo-Canadiense). Ice, IV TD; 600m. 1982-06-12First ascentV. Baderet, J. Oullet & B. Balmat, 1982-06-12.
              The easiest route on the face.
              Alchimia. Ice, IV TD+; 600m. 1997-01-01First ascentN. Campitelli, M. Frishknect & B. Fiorenza, 1997.
              • Tomé pp.201#7
              American Direct (Americana). Ice, IV ED; 650m, 8-10h. 1979-08-09First ascentM. Richey & R. Blatherwick, 1979-08-09.
              Peruvian. Ice,
              Grassi. Ice, IV ED; 650m. 1982-06-20First ascentB. Francou, J-M. Cambon & G. Grassi, 1982-06-20.
              Yangyaraju
              Yangyaraju I (Jangyaraju I, Yangyaraju Este)5675
              1900-01-01
              Event
              NE side
              TD+; 6a,A2, M5/60°; 5600m. 2015-05-25First ascentOdei Girado & Kepa Berasategi, 2015-05-25.
              South side
              TD+; 50°-65° (90)°; 5600m. 2003-10-20First ascentAritza Monasterio, Peter Alvarado, Darwin Jamamca, 2003-10-20.
              West side
              Arista SO. 1 day. 1975-08-01First ascentD. Ciochetti & C. Slaymaker, 1975-08.
              Arista NO. AD; 1 day. 1963-08-01First ascentS. Colbeck, D. Ewers & I. Jirak, 1963-08.
              From Laguna Mullaqa via SW glacier and steep SW ridge.
              Yangyaraju II (Yangyaraju Central)-9.4154-77.45225630
              1900-01-01
              Event
              SE side
              Cara SE. PD+; 1 day. 1963-07-31First ascentS. Colbeck, D. Ewers & K. Heathershaw, 1963-07-31.
              From SW glacier via col between Yanguraju I and II.
              Arista SE. AD; 1 day.
                Yangyaraju III (Yangyaraju Oeste)5450
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West side
                NW Ridge (Arista NO). 1 day. 1974-08-01First ascentB. Pfeiffer, J. Plimpton & J. Spezia, 1974-08.
                • Sharman pp.85
                • Tome pp.203.2
                West Ridge (Arista Oeste). 1 day. 1975-08-02First ascentD. Ciochetti & C. Slaymaker, 1975-08-02.
                From SW glacier basin.
                East side
                SE face. 1 day. 1958-07-18First ascentJ. Much & I. Jirak, 1958-07-18.
                Vallunaraju
                Vallunaraju-9.42219-77.45635686
                • Vallunaraju (5686m-9.42219-77.4563)
                • Vallunaraju Sur (5600m)
                One of the most prominent looking mountains visible from Huaraz. Good acclimatization climb. Vallunaraju summits lie on a N-S ridge south from Janyaraju I. Third prominent ridge is East spur dividing east face into East and South faces. East and South faces can be accessed from quebrada Llaca, which is easily accessible from Huaraz by car.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North face
                North face (Cara Norte). PD; 1200m, 1-2 days. 1954-06-05First ascentHugo Vargas, Antonio Ramos, Manuel Díaz & René González, 1954-06-05.
                East side
                North ridge (Arista Norte). II AD-; 550m, 2-3 day round trip from Huaraz. 1971-07-09First ascentLucille Ryan & Robert Ryan, 1971-07-09.
                Normal route, classic. From the col between Janyaraju I and Vallunaraju.
                East side (Cara Este). Rock, TD; III/IV; 400m, 4-5h. 1982-06-01First ascentGian Carlo Grassi, 1982-06.
                SE face (Cara SE). Mixed, D; 1200m. 1987-08-08First ascentMarco Schenone, Guido Ghigo & Enrico Tessera, 1987-08-08.
                South face
                Face rising to Vallunaraju Sur (5600m) immediately above guides hut by the road end.
                SW slopes (Pendientes SO). PD-; 1200m, 3-5h. 1949-01-01First ascentA. Szepessy & M. Szepessy, 1949.
                Normal route. On SW slope close to S(W) ridge.
                • Sharman pp.85
                • Tomé pp.204#3
                El Gran Momo. 70-90°, 6a,A2; 300m, 17h.

                Churup group

                Churup Oeste (Churup I)-9.469127-77.4158485493
                Peak located at the end of ridge separating Cojup and Quilcayhuanca valleys, just 20km from Huaraz and easily visible to the city. The peak is not particular per se, but it's SW face located above popular laguna Churup has several interesting climbs for those searching for reasonably technical (D+-ED) mixed routes that are not too far away from Huaraz. Doable as two days round trip from Huaraz by placing high camp by laguna Superior (3-5h from road end close to Pitec). Other aspects of the peak are far less climbed.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-03 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-03 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                Pendientes & Cara NO, Arista NE. D-; 1200m. 1954-08-08First ascentA. Canaval, A. Mirro-Quesada, A. Morales, C. Morales, A. Palacios & R. Thomas, 1954-08-08.
                Eleven Joints. ED3; 500m. 1996-07-01First ascentMarkovic & Meglic, 1996-07.
                Oeste, Cara Sur
                Cara Sur. D-; V; 300m, 1 day. 1962-07-18First ascentM. Inokuchi & H. Yoshikawa, 1962-07-18.
                • Tomé pp.207#7
                • Sharman pp.80
                SW face
                A face located immediately above laguna Churup. Several mixed routes of around 450m and between grades D+ - ED. Rock quality of the face is rather bad and seems to take solid pro sparsingly, at least on the lower crux pitches. There is equipped rappel line along the rocks immediately to the left of the mixed face.
                Americana. Mixed, TD; V, 90°; 450m. 1995-07-24First ascentA. Swenson, G. Svehn & S. Porter, 1995-07-24.
                • Tomé pp.207#1
                Cami de Sirga. Mixed, TD; 450m. 1994-07-27First ascentE. Ortuño & R. Gine, 1994-07-27.
                Eleven Joints. Mixed, ED; A3, 95°; 450m. 1996-07-07First ascentA. Markovic & M. Meglic, 1996-07-07.
                Hispano-Peruana. Mixed, ED; A3, 95°; 450m. 1997-09-05First ascentG. Mejía & D. Rodriquez López, 1997-09-05.
                • Tomé pp.207#4
                Princesa Malinche (SW Face, Cara SO). Mixed, IV D+; AI3+/85°, V+, one pitch, mixed; 450m, 6-8h. 1983-08-03First ascentJ.A. Palacios & J.M. Lorenzo, 1983-08-03.
                Mixed climb.
                496 Spa-smos. Mixed, V, AI4/85°; 450m. 2001-09-02First ascentRichard Hidalgo, 2001-09-02.
                Between the rappel line and Princesa Malinche.
                SW face. Mixed, 75-80°, IV+; 450m. 1972-08-15First ascentR. Fear, W. Lohr, M. Malotaux & Y. Ridgeway, 1972-08-15.
                The easiest route on the face, located at the RHS of the face, very close to the rocky spur along which goes the descent route.
                La Divina Providencia. Mixed, M7/80°; 650m. 2015-01-01First ascentTomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini, 2015.
                NW side
                Primorska Smer. V+,A0, 80. 1999-07-11First ascentSimon Markocic, Vasja Kosuta, Borut Kolja & Matija Klanjscek, 1999-07-11.
                Churup II (Churup Norte, Churup Central)-9.4660-77.41465461
                1900-01-01
                Event
                NW arete
                NW slopes. 1960-01-01First ascentR. Mégard, H. Vargas & A. Soriano, 1960.
                • Yuraq Janka pp.108
                NW arete. AD+. 2001-08-02First ascentClemént Guntz, 2001-08-02.
                Huapi (Jatunmontepuncu, Bayo)-9.4076-77.36935415
                Easternmost peak on long ridge SW from Pucaranra. Located some 3km from Pucaranra, separated from it by Pucaranra-Jatunmontepucul col (5200m). SW ridge drops to Huapi pass. Most common ascent is SW ridge which can be gained from both sides.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West side
                Lado NO. F; 1 day. 1957-09-27EventS. Leppish & H. Vargas, 1957-09-27.
                Arista NO. F; 1 day. 1965-08-24First ascentL. Irwin & J. Ricker, 1965-08-24.
                Pendientes SO (SW ridge via W slopes). F; 1 day. 1965-07-05First ascentL. Baker & G. Holdsworth, 1965-07-05.
                SW Face. D; 1 day.
                SW side
                Pendientes E & Arete Oeste (SW Ridge). F; 30°; 4h. 1948-07-05First ascentA. Szepessy & M. Soni, 1948-07-05.
                • Tomé pp.179#4
                • Sharman pp.79
                • Biggar 2005 pp.84
                NE Face. F; 1 day.
                Huamanripa (Chago)-9.4263-77.37955258
                1900-01-01
                Event
                NE side
                North Ridge. F; 1 day. 1959-07-14First ascentB. Andersen, T. Andersen, J. Braig, H. Clark, M. Goodro, D. Green & J. Wickerson, 1959-07-14.
                • Sharman pp.80

                Huantsan

                San Juan group

                San Juan-9.47226-77.3267135843
                San Juan has three main ridges: (W)NW ridge from Quimarumi-San Juan col (5200m) and NE ridge from Maparaju-San Juan col. All main routes are mid-grade undertakings.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                From Quimarumi-San Juan col (5200m)
                NW ridge (Arista NO). AD+; 900/1600m, 2 day round trip from the valley. 1958-08-14First ascentMyrtle L. Emslie, Derek Fabian, Hugh Simpson & William Wallace, 1958-08-14.
                Normal route. Via Quimarumi-San Juan col (5200m) and P. 5451.
                East arete
                East arete. D; 50°; 2 days. 1991-08-04First ascentDavid M. Sharman & Duncan Thomas, 1991-08-04.
                South ridge
                Via Tumarinaraju-San Juan col (5400m)
                South ridge. D; II/III; 2 days. 1957-07-05First ascentNick Clinch & Rodman L. Tidrick, 1957-07-05.
                Via Tumarinaraju-San Juan col (5400m).
                San Juan Sur (Tumarinaraju)-9.4858-77.32195670
                1900-01-01
                Event
                East ridge
                East ridge. D-; 60°; 1200m, 1 day. 1972-07-03First ascentRonald E. Fear & William Lahr, 1972-07-03.
                South ridge.
                Quimarumi (San Juan Este, P.5459)-9.4762-77.35615459
                At the head of the Quebrada Minas, east of San Juan Norte.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                East ridge
                East ridge. PD+; II; 4,5-5h. 1966-08-11First ascentDavid Bathgate, Terry Burnell, Lisle Irwin & John Ricker, 1966-08-11.
                Via Quimarumi-San Juan col (5200m) and P. 5451.

                Huamashraju group

                Huamashraju (Yanawaqra)-9.524407-77.3843465434
                Southernmost snow peaks on the ridge running SW from Pongas Norte. Not to be mixed with Huamashraju located in Huantsan massif.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West side
                Consists of an almost vertical granite wall of 200m leading to an equal distance of snow climbing up the NW ridge.
                Arista NO. AD+; 500m, 1 day. 1996-06-13First ascentA. Zigon & B. Strmsek, 1996-06-13.
                Thai Express. Mixed, 5.9. 2000-01-01First ascentKen Sims, Naresaun Butthaum & Dennis Jackson, 2000.
                Far left side of the face.
                Sims-Jackson. Mixed, 5.9. 2000-01-01First ascentKen Sims & Dennis Jackson, 2000.
                MK Route. Mixed, nccs III 5.9. 1998-01-01First ascentMaura Hanning & Ken Sims, 1998.
                to the left of Sims-Hanning, taking the obvious line just left of the large roof system that is left of the Sims-Hanning Route.
                Sims-Hanning. Mixed, nccs IV 5.9+ R; 6b, 60°; 6h. 1998-01-01First ascentMaura Hanning & Ken Sims, 1998.
                8 pitches up the middle of the wall to gain NW ridge, then 200m of ice ridge to the summit.
                Pendientes Oeste. IV PD; 350/1000m, 4,5-5h day. 1954-05-15First ascentJ. Cabana & A. Soriano, 1954-05-15.
                South side
                South slopes. PD; 1000m, 1 day. 1967-08-04First ascentR. Cundiff, L. Duesberg, Donald S. Liska, G. Getzel & H. Walton, 1967-08-04.
                East side
                East side. 1967-07-01First ascentD. Felder & E. Schill, 1967-07.
                • Sharmann pp.97
                Quimaraju (Quiso)5406
                Minor peak on on W ridge of Huantsan Norte between Huamasraju peaks in the west and Huantsan Norte in the east.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                North slope. Mixed, PD; 1100m, 1 day. 1973-07-03First ascentCurtis W. Stark & Richard H. Webster, 1973-07-03.
                East side
                East face. 1100m. 1967-07-31First ascentR. Cundiff, L. Duelsberg, Donald S. Liska, G. Detzel & H. Walton, 1967-07-31.
                Arista SO. Rock, 1 day. 1967-06-27First ascentY. Komatsu & A. Miyashita, 1967-06-27.
                Huamashraju Este (Huamashpunta)-9.524406-77.3802285250
                Located on East ridge of Huamashraju, west of Quimaraju.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                East side
                Cara Este. Rock, TD; V; 350m. 1998-08-23First ascentR. Hidalgo & D. Fernández, 1998-08-23.
                • Tomé pp.219#2
                South side
                Pendientes Sur. AD+; 1000m, 1 day. 1962-07-19First ascentY. Hamano, N. Kaburaki, A. Muraj & P. Morales, 1962-07-19.
                • Tomé pp.218#1

                Huantsan group

                Huantsan (Wantsan)-9.515833-77.316369
                One of the most difficult peaks in Cordillera Blanca. No proper normal route exists, albeit NNW ridge is closest to one. Obvious challenge would be complete traverse over NNW Ridge via Norte to Main summits, from there along SW ridge to col between Main and Oeste, oner NE ridge to Oeste and down SW ridge over Sur.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                • Egeler, C G.: Challenge of the Andes the Conquest of Mount Huantsan. Isbn: 9781175179517. Nabu Press, 2011.
                • Kiendler pp.82-3
                East side
                NE ridge. TD+; 150m, 3+ days. 1974-08-17First ascentM. Batard, J.M. Maire, G. Missilier, M. Parmentier, D. Nett, G. Seibel & M. Johns, 1974-08-17.
                West side
                NNW ridge. D+/TD-; 1000m, 2 days round trip from camp at 5500m (from Quebrada Shallap). 1952-07-07First ascentLionel Terray, de Booy & Egeler, 1952-07-07.
                Normal route. Via foresummit of Huantsan Norte (P. 5950m) to Huantsan Norte (6113m, 550m of climbing), then to col between Norte and main (5950m) and along NNW ridge to the summit. Long and technical and most difficulties are located high up.
                West face (Cara Oeste). TD/ED; 1400m, 3+ days. 1979-08-02First ascentB. Young, K. Messer & M. Lehner, 1979-08-02.
                Huantsan Oeste-9.516661-77.3117356270
                Not very independent peak located close to Main and separated from it by not very deep but difficult col. Long SW ridge drops down to col between Oeste and Sur.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                South face
                Les Trois Mousquetaires. 2010-01-01First ascentBeto Pinto, Rolando Morales & Sophie Denis, 2010.
                south face of the west ridge.
                West side
                North face. TD-; 1400m. 1984-07-01First ascentJ. tarvey & K. Star, 1984-07.
                To col between Main and Oeste and NE ridge to summit.
                West face. D-; 1200m. 1989-07-23First ascentD. Blanchi, E. Begin, J.P. Floras & E. Brochot, 1989-07-23.
                More direct route than SW slopes.
                SW slopes (Italian route). D+; 1200m. 1973-06-20First ascentL. Alipi, C. Di Pietro, C. Ferrari, A. Calmarini, G. Gianantonio, Domingos Giobbi, L. Guidali, S. Liati & M. Mazzoleni, 1973-06-20.
                To col between Oeste and Sur, then more or less along SW ridge to summit.
                Huantsan Norte-9.506037-77.315046133
                The easiest route on Huantsan goes over Huantsan Norte. Several ridges join at the foresummit P.5950m.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SW ridge
                SW ridge. D-; 1000m, 3+ days. 1978-08-08First ascentR. Auda, P. Bonnier, J. Bouquier, L. Coursol, P. Ferry & G. Martin, 1978-08-08.
                West face
                West face. D; 55°; 1100m, 3+ days. 1980-06-06First ascentK. Klinger & W. Sachatonicek, 1980-06-06.
                NW ridge
                NW ridge. AD+; 50-60°; 1100m, 3+ days, 5-7h from col to summit. 1952-07-07First ascentT. de Booy, G. Egeler & Lionel Terray, 1952-07-07.
                Climbed along the NNW ridge of Huantsan main summit. From the col (5400m) along the North ridge of Huantsan Norte between Huantsan Norte and Tumarinaraju II.
                • Tomé pp220#1
                • Biggar pp.86
                • Sharman pp.90
                Huantsan Sur-9.5273-77.30845913
                1900-01-01
                Event
                East side
                Death or Glory (NE Buttress). TD/ED; 1000m. 2006-06-27First ascentNick Bullock & Matt Helliker, 2006-06-27.
                • Huantsan Sur, Northeast Buttress. Unlike the busy, easily accessible western side of Huantsan Sur (5919m), the eastern side is another world: remote, serious and quiet. By Nick Bullock at Alpinist on 2006-11-27.
                Pendientes este, arista SE. D-; 1000m, 2+ days. 1997-01-01First ascentPeruvian expedition, 1997.
                • Tomé pp.226#3
                • Sharman pp.92
                West side
                Arista Norte (North ridge). D; 1000m, 2+ days. 1973-06-19First ascentC. DiPietro, A. Calmarini & Domingos Giobbi, 1973-06-19.
                From the col between Oeste and Sur.
                Pendientes oeste (West slopes). D; 1000m, 2+ days. 1967-06-23First ascentK. Kobayashi, A. Miyashita, T. Hayashi, Y. Homatsu & M. Nishigori, 1967-06-23.
                Pucashallash5130
                Located on NE ridge of Huantsan Norte
                1969-07-08
                Pucashallash, ,
                First ascent                		Party from
                North side
                North side. 1969-07-08Pucashallash, North side, First ascent , 1969-07-08.

                Cashan group

                Cashan Este (Cashán Este)-9.552339-77.3507025723
                1900-01-01
                Event
                • Sharman pp.93-4
                NE side
                NE face (Cara NE). PD; 45°. 1981-07-10First ascentJ. Levy, 1981-07-10.
                East ridge
                East ridge (Arista E). PD; 60°; PD. 1981-07-21First ascentRichard Soaper, Bob Wilson, Carolyn Griffin & Hans Steyskal, 1981-07-21.
                SE face
                SE face (Cara SE). TD-; 70/80°; 500m. 1998-07-29First ascentR. Hidalgo, 1998-07-29.
                SW side
                SSW Ridge. AD. 2006-06-25First ascentDamian Aurelio, Ray Tennant & David Galloway, 2006-06-25.
                From quebrada Rurec via SSW ridge to col between Cashan Este and Shaqsha.
                SW face
                SW face (Cara SO). AD; 1000m, 1 day. 1948-06-17First ascentB. Lauterburg, F. Marmillod, R. Schmid & F. Sigrist, 1948-06-17.
                • Tomé 234#1
                West side
                Cara NO & Arista O. TD. 1980-08-01First ascentPeter J. Millar, 1980-08.
                NNW face of the second minor summit east of Cashan Oeste, then traverse to Cashan Este.
                Shaqsha (Shacsha, Huantsan Chico)-9.587802-77.3658515703
                • Central (5703m-9.587802-77.365851)
                • Sur (P.5697) (5697m)

                Little known and rarely climbed peak in the southern Cordillera Blanca, despite being well visible to the road leading from coast (Lima) to Huaraz after Conococha Pass. South Ridge of South summit (P.5697m) is featured on the cover of Brad Johnson guidebook.

                Shaqsha is located at the southern end of high mountain chain (Shaqsha - Cashan Este - Nevado Rurec). It consists of prominent NE ridge towards Cashan Este and sharp 1km long south ridge leading first almost diagonally to Shaqsha Sur, then dropping steeply to glacier saddle (South Spur). From close to main summit long but less prominent ridge leads NW separating quebrada Cashan from smaller valley with lagunas Shaqsha and Azulejaccocha (the former is usual base camp site fro west side climbs). On the east side there are two major spurs towards quebrada Rurec, one from south summit and one from the main summit. Generally the west and south faces are ice whereas east side is much rockier.

                Most common way to climb Shaqsha is from west. Normal route is considered to be West face (which could just as well be called NW ridge). South Spur is the other route seeing some climbing activity. East side has few routes leading to either summit and additionally rock routes that finish on pre summits. No routes are known to have been climbed from quebrada Cashan.

                • Shaqsha south and west faces. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Shaqsha south and west faces. Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-02 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                • Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                  Credit: Ari Paulin, Shot on 2013-08-01 Photo taken in , Huaraz, Ancash, Peru.(c) (c) Ari Paulin 2012.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                NW face
                Ice face above quebrada Cashan framed by NW and NE ridges. No information about any climbs from this side.
                SE face
                Wide mainly rocky face above quebrada Rurec. The face has few spurs, most prominent of them being the one from south summit via the shoulder forming the left border and dropping due east from the main summit. The face is framed by the should or SE spur on the left and NE ridge (leading to Cashan Este). The long ridge towards quebrada Rurec features a pointed 5040m summit called Punta Giampiero Capoccia by the Italian party who put up two difficult rock routes on it.
                Arista NE. D; 2 days round trip from high camp at 4900m. 1958-08-06First ascentM. Chancy, Y. D'Aubigne, M. Emslie, H. Simpson & W. Wallace, 1958-08-06.
                From quebrada Rurec along E slopes to col at 5400m on NE ridge.
                Feliz cumpleanos momo. 85°, IV+; 700m, 17h from camp at 4900m. 1999-05-23First ascentXavier Carrad, Abel Calana, Juan Morales, Marcos Nino, Franco Obando, Hector Reyes, César Vargas & Aritsa Monasterio, 1999-05-23.
                Exact route line is not known, but the route probably lies to the right of "La via del gemellaggio Yanet e Kristine", possibly going via the shoulder.
                South face
                South ridge of south summit (P. 5697) is featured on the cover of Brad Johnson guidebook. It appears that some parties stop at the end of the ridge without continuing to the actual south summit which is roughly 2 pitches further along airy ridge. Seems to be somewhat more difficult but safer than serac-threatened West face or NW ridge routes. At least in 2012, the most logical route turned the upper bergshrund on the right hand side (SE face) and climbed it until about mid way, from where it switched to the left hand side of the ridge. Icy face to the right of South ridge is SSE face. Upper part of the face is narrow and leads to south summit. Lower down ridge leads to shoulder, from where steep rocky spur falls down to quebrada Rurec. On the left hand side the face is bordered on South spur.
                South ridge (South spur, Arista Sur). Snow, AD+/D; 45-60°; 500m. Approach from glacier camp 0,5h, climb 8-10h roundtrip. 1988-07-01First ascentH. Martens & J. Maardalen, 1988-07.
                Left hand side of the South ridge. Sharman guidebook gives a meager grade of PD+, which seems to be a sandbag. Tomé grade is AD+ which is probably pretty close. To gain access to the climb may require either climbing few meters of vertical or overhanging ice or rock/mixed ground to overcome the prominent upper bergschrund. The first ascent party did not continue over 1 km ridge to the main summit.
                SE face (La via del gemellaggio Yanet e Kristine). Ice, D+; 70-75°; 350m, 8h. 2005-06-01First ascentCesar Rosales, Miguel Martinez, Elias Flores & Tiziano Orio, 2005-06.
                Passes the upper bergshrund of south ridge on the RHS, then continues to the top very close to the south ridge. At least in 2012, the most logical route turned the upper bergshrund on the right hand side (SE face) and climbed it until about mid way, from where it switched to the left hand side of the ridge.
                West side
                The actual West face framed by South and NW ridges is a wild labyrinth of seracs. Sharman route crosses below the face to gain the NW ridge on the left hand side of the face. Direct variant negotiates through the seracs.
                West Flank (Pendientes NO). Snow, AD; 500m, 5-7h from glacier camp. 1991-08-14First ascentDavid Sharman, 1991-08-14.
                Normal route. From the camp across the glacier to NW ridge. Finish with 150m headwall (60). Summit may have difficult mushroom. The upper part of he route has two variations, original variant joins NW ridge for the upper part, then traverses along the ridge to the summit. Conditions permitting the face can be climbed directly to the summit, which avoids often corniced ridge.
                West Flank Direct (Pendientes NO Direct). Snow, AD+; 80°; 500m, 5-7h from glacier camp. 2006-06-14First ascentUnknown, 2006-06-14.
                Direct variation to west face. No further details exist.
                Würmligrübler. Rock, 7a+, 60°; 240m. 2013-07-23First ascentMathias Schick, Florian Zwahlen, Marcel Probst & David Hefti, 2013-07-23.
                Climbs the steep rock close to South ridge.
                Cashán Oeste-9.56021-77.3696715701
                1900-01-01
                Event
                • Sharman pp.95
                North ridge
                North ridge (Arista N). Rock, TD/TD+; 6a+; 450m. 2011-07-25First ascentCarlos Cabeza & Diego Fernández, 2011-07-25.
                East side
                NE ridge (Cara E & arista NE). TD; 2 days. 1993-07-26First ascentMark Richey & Barry Rugo, 1993-07-26.
                West side
                Vertiente O (Cara Oeste). D+; 1200m, 2 days. 1967-07-04First ascentD. Anderson, L. Carter & J. Miller, 1967-07-04.
                From the glacier Oeste along NW ridge to NW foresummit and further along airy corniced ridge to the summit.
                Abeja (Motoko, P.5377)5377
                1900-01-01
                Event
                • Sharman pp.94
                North side
                North side. 1967-01-01Abeja, North side, First ascent , 1967.
                Abeja Sur5300
                • Sharman pp.94
                Pucamataraju5224
                • Sharman pp.94
                P.51265126
                • Sharman pp.94
                P.51005100
                • Sharman pp.94

                Rurec

                Rurec group

                Uruashraju (Urwashrahu)-9.579338-77.3090315722
                • Uruashraju Norte (5464m)
                • Uruashraju (5722m-9.579338-77.309031)
                • Punta MePi (5030m)
                Beautiful snow peak offering good view of Huantsan. Easiest ascents are from NW (quebrada Rurec). SW side from quebrada Pumahuacanca has also been climbed. NE face from quebrada ALhuina and South face above lagunas Huansan seem to be steep, but no routes exist on either side.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SW side
                South Ridge. AD+; 45-65°; 1200m, 4h. 1975-07-27First ascentJ. Packa, D. Ciochetti, D. Lanmade, C. Slaymaker & Michael Rourke, 1975-07-27.
                Normal route. Camp in a col below South Ridge (5250m).
                NW side
                West and south(east) ridges join to form the south buttress. From the top of the south buttress sharp and corniced ridge leads to summit almost horizontally.
                West Ridge (Arista Oeste). Mixed, AD+; 65-70°; 7-8h. 1966-06-17First ascentDomingos Giobbi & Carlo Mauri, 1966-06-17.
                Joins South ridge below the summit.
                NW face. PD; 45°; 2 days from Tararhua. 1987-07-08First ascentAndre Schoon, Alistair Schoon & M. Scott, 1987-07-08.
                Punta Mepi
                Rock big wall
                The Flight of the Witch HSF. Rock, 5.11b X,A3+; 900m, 20 pitches. 2006-11-09First ascentPietro Rago, 2006-11-09.
                Rurec-9.540235-77.3111345700
                Rurec Principal has three main ridges: NW ridge to Rurec Oeste I and II, NW ridge to Huantsan Sur and South ridge with Rurec Sur I, II and III. The peak can be climbed easily from both NW (quebrada Rajucolta) and SW (quebrada Rurec). East side above quebrada Alhuina have no recorded routes.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SW side
                SW face. PD+; 45°; 1200m, 6-7h. 1979-07-13First ascentR. Renshaw & D. Wilkinson, 1979-07-13.
                SW buttress. D; 1200m, 1 day. 1981-07-09First ascentS. Chaney, J. Lund, B. Wilson, S. Howe, R. Jones, J. Crystal, P. Cloud, D. Tody & J. Glidden, 1981-07-09.
                Brevete Seguro. 60°; 14h. 1999-05-23First ascentKoki Castañeda, Williams Dávalos, Saúl Angeles, Chinchilla Zárate, Toni Ortiz & Félix Vicencio, 1999-05-23.
                SW ridge to South face.
                NW Ridge
                NW Ridge. PD; 45°; 800m, 6-7h. 1965-07-17First ascentE. Angeles, H. Adams Carter & Domingos Giobbi, 1965-07-17.
                Yahuaraju (Rurec Oeste I, Yawarraju)-9.535749-77.3188595673
                The peak has three main ridges: NW ridge is easy ascent from laguna Ahuac, SW ridge to Rurec Oeste II and SE ridge to Rurec Principal. West face is far more difficult mixed face.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                Arista NO
                Arista NO. AD; 45°; 500m, 1 day. 1965-07-17First ascentE. Angeles, H. Adams Carter & Domingos Giobbi, 1965-07-17.
                Cara SO
                Cara SO. TD; 45°; 600m, 1 day. 1980-06-01First ascentK. Klinger & W. Sachatoniek, 1980-06-01.
                Rurec Oeste II-9.542563-77.3348675350
                Located on the West ridge of Rurec Oeste I. SW ridge of Rurec Oeste II leads to Cashan Este with several minor peaks in between the two.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                Pendientes NO
                Pendientes NO. F; 400m, 1 day. 1967-06-22First ascentJ. Hamada & K. Hamada, 1967-06-22.
                Tuctopunta-9.6040-77.31935343
                Highest peaks on Ryrec main chain south of Uruashraju. Not far from the road end, but no information is readily available.
                Rurec Sur II (Rurec Este)-9.5599-77.30335320
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West side
                West slopes. F; 30°; 700m, 1 day. 1958-08-08First ascentH. Chaney, Y. D'Aubigne, M. Emslie & W. Wallace, 1958-08-08.
                Rurec Sur I (Alpishpunta)-9.5548-77.30125300
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West side
                West side. F/PD; 30°; 700m, 1 day. 1981-07-07First ascentF. Mohling, S. Chaney, D. Tody, J. Crystal, R. Thron & L. Krimen, 1981-07-07.
                Rurec Sur III (Rurec Oeste)-9.5657-77.30645300
                Southernmost of Rurec peaks, located 1,5km north of Uruashraju
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West side
                West side. F/PD; 30°; 700m, 1 day. 1957-08-10First ascentW. Dixon & I. Lasner, 1957-08-10.

                Pumahuacanca group

                Pumahuacanca (Cerro Arhuay)-9.5865-77.33095563
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                Several other routes have been climbed on the face by Peruvians.
                North face. D; 1000m, 1 day roundtrip from high camp. 1969-06-24First ascentHugh R. Clark & Alistair McKeith, 1969-06-24.
                El sexto teletubbies. TD+; 5c+, 50-70°; 300m. 2012-01-01First ascentBeto Pinto & Yonny Rosales, 2012.
                Pumahuacanca Chico-9.5839-77.32565400
                Several summits between Pumahuacanca and Uruashraju Chico
                1900-01-01
                Event
                Uruashraju Chico-9.5803-77.32135360
                1900-01-01
                Event
                East side
                East slopes. 1964-07-29First ascentDomingos Giobbi, Carlo Mauri & Macario Ángeles, 1964-07-29.
                Cerro Pumahuagangan (Pumahuacanca Sur)-9.5972-77.34015138
                Punta Numa (Chaupihuanca)4700
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North face
                Caravaca Jubilar. Rock, ED+/nccs VI 5.11 A4; 7a,A4; 750m, 21 pitches. 2003-08-23First ascentGallego brothers, Juan Luis Garcia & Juan Carlos Garcia, 2003-08-23.
                Qui Io Vado Ancora. Rock, 7a,A1; 550m. 2006-07-01First ascentAndrea Pavan, Simone Pedeferri & Fabio Palma, 2006-07.
                • New rock challenges on the walls of Peru. Climbers seeking Peruvian rock climbs have in recent years focused on the well-established routes on La Esfinge (5325m) in the Quebrada de Paron, but increasingly the rock faces of the Quebrada Rurec Valley, which offer easy approaches, are attracting attention. By Fabio Palma at Alpinist on 2006-09-16.
                Hasta Luego Zorro. Rock, EX+; 7a,A3+; 1200m, 23 pitches. 2001-08-21First ascentRoberto Iannilli, 2001-08-21.
                Monttrek (Cara NO, Catalan route). Rock, ED+; 6c,A4; 750m. 1997-08-19First ascentEloy Callado & César Pedrochi, 1997-08-19.
                Libertad es Partecipacion. Rock, 6c,A2; 600/1600m. 2005-01-01First ascentRoberto Iannilli & Giulio Canti, 2005.
                On the wall immediately left of the corner system that separates Punta Numa from Punta Ayudin.
                Punta Ayudin4700
                1900-01-01
                Event
                NW face
                Face immediately to the left of Punta Numa.
                Dominguero Vertical. Rock, 6b,A2; 650m. 2005-07-23First ascentRamon Perez de Ayala, Daniel Gutierrez, Jorge Ferrero & Maria Lopez, 2005-07-23.

                Yanamarey

                Yanamarey group

                Yanamarey Norte-9.6485-77.27045262
                The peaks has three main ridges: Log NE ridge with P.4965 and P.4980 and another ridge system running generally towards north from it, SE ridge to P. 5090 and Yanamarey Sur and extensive SW ridge which leads to Pucaraju and separates quebradas Araranca (north) and Yanamarey (south). Not sure whether North ridge climbed in 1987 is the long ridge system running north from NE ridge or the shurter less prominent one dropping to quebrada Araranca. East face from quebrada Hualpish has no recorded ascents.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                Arista Norte. PD; II; 5-6h from fork of quebrada Yanamaray. 1967-07-07First ascentD. Anderson, E. Angeles, V. Angeles, D. Bernays, H. Carter, L. Carter, J. Duenwald & G. Henostroza, 1967-07-07.
                Yanamarey Sur-9.6689-77.25565220
                Yanamarey Sur has four ridges: NW ridge to P-5090 and Yanamarey Norte, (N)E ridge with a couple of minor peaks, SE ridge towards Punta Cahuish and very long West (SW) ridge to Querococha. The latter ridge divides quebrada Yanamarey from quebrada Conde (road to East side through Tunel de Cahuish). North face above quebrada Hualpish and SE face above quebrada Pucavado have no recorded routes. The peaks sees very little climbing, as the ascent of West ridge in 2007 was presumable only the second ascent of the peak.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SW side
                Pendientes Sur. F; 5-6h from fork of quebrada Yanamaray. 1965-07-20First ascentDr. Georg Hartmann & Ernst Reiss, 1965-07-20.
                West side
                Very long West (SW) ridge to Querococha dividing quebrada Yanamarey from quebrada Conde (road to East side through Tunel de Cahuish).
                West ridge.
                Punta Cahuish (Yanamarey de Cahuish)-9.6800-77.24695115
                1900-01-01
                Event
                South side
                SE ridge. 1 day return. 1966-06-26First ascentA. Cram & L. Cram, 1966-06-26.
                • Sharmann pp.96

                Pucaraju group

                Pucaraju (South summit)-9.6745-77.31165090
                • Pucaraju Norte (5090m-9.6745-77.3116)
                • Pucaraju Sur (4950m)
                Located close to laguna Querococha on the western part of Yanamarey group. SW face is well visible to the lake, SE face can be approached from quebrada Yanamarey and north side from quebrada Qulloc. SW face hosts several short but steep ice and mixed routes. It is one of the few places in the southern groups where technical routes have been recorded.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                • Biggar 2005 pp.60-1
                • Kiendler pp.45-6
                North ridge
                Some confusing information regarding this route exists. If it is indeed North of NW ridge, then it would have to be accessed from quebrada Qulloc, not from quebrada Yanamaray (although the latter cane be gained from laguna Querococha at the start of quebrada Yanamnarey).
                Arista Norte. Rock, 1973-01-01First ascentM. Conway & G. Mosely, 1973.
                SW face
                Access to the face from s small side valley of quebrada Yanamaray, accessible from the far end of laguna Querococha. The face is well visible from the lake. Several ice and mixed routes around 350m high and around TD in difficulty in narrow parallel ice couloirs cutting through relatively sound granite. Choose Life leads to highest summit, all the others stop at the summit ridge.
                Mururoa. TD; 80-85°, V+; 350m. 1996-01-01First ascentKike Ortuno & Gilbert Salvador, 1996.
                Adám y Eva et le Bonheur. TD; 85°; 300m. 1996-01-01First ascentAramowski & Carrard, 1996.
                Leads to prominent col between the two summits.
                Choose life.
                Hot Line. TD; 80-90°; 350m. 1995-01-01First ascentJean Noel Roux, Jean Emmanual Scart & Christophe Vigne, 1995.
                La princesse de petit pois. Mixed, TD; 85°; 300m. 1995-01-01First ascentCordier & Maynet, 1995.
                Right side of the North Face. Much of the couloir ice has disappeared, leaving little more than verglassed rock in places. The climb is now completely different to its former self and a lot of drytooling is in order.
                Juego de los Reyes. WI4 M6; 300m. 2009-07-27First ascentMarcus Donaldson & Nate Farr, 2009-07-27.
                SE side
                Cara Sur. TD; 300m, 1 day round trip. 1967-07-23First ascentDave Bernays & Glicerio Hemostroza, 1967-07-23.
                South face couloir.

                Pongas

                Pongos Norte

                Pongas Norte I (Jatunllacsha I)-9.7757-77.24965680
                • Pongas Norte I Jatunllacsha I Pongas Norte I (5680m-9.7757-77.2496)
                • Pongas Norte II (5595m)
                • Pongas Norte III (5600m)
                The highest peak in the northern massif. Apparently there are three summits: Pongas Norte I (5680m), Pongas Norte II (5595m) and Pongas Norte III (5600m). Confusingly, DAV map only shows one summit called Jatunllacsha and quotes it at 5630m. To add to the confusion, at least I and III are sometimes referred to as Jatunllacha. Based on a maps, the summits should be located close to each other, as all the peaks close by don't reach anywhere near that kind of height.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North glacier
                North glacier (Vertiente N). AD. 1964-06-06EventDomingos Giobbi, E. Angeles & M. Angeles, 1964-06-06.
                SE face
                SE face. 1971-05-23First ascentSchiml, Hummel, Fritz & Wibmer, 1971-05-23.
                Queshque-9.7875-77.26835463
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SW face
                SW glacier & face. 1952-06-05First ascentT. de Booy & C. Egeler, 1952-06-05.
                P.54205420
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SW face
                SE ridge. 1971-05-27P.5420, SE ridge, Event , 1971-05-27.
                • Sharmann pp.97
                Shahuanca-9.7477-77.23135383
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West side
                WSW side. AD+; 1000m. 2000-07-25First ascentClément Guntz & Hugo Robin, 2000-07-25.
                Maretaca-9.7957-77.27185365
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North ridge
                Arista N. 1971-05-17First ascentP. Schmil, D. Schwenkglenks & F. Winkler, 1971-05-17.
                • Tomé pp.247#1
                West ridge
                West ridge. F. 1971-05-17First ascentWibmer & Schiml, 1971-05-17.
                Huamashraju-9.7988-77.27505303
                Southernmost snow peaks on the ridge running SW from Pongas Norte. Not to be mixed with Huamashraju located in Huantsan massif.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                East side
                East side. 1967-07-01First ascentD. Felder & E. Schill, 1967-07.
                • Sharmann pp.97

                Pongos Sur

                Mururaju (Pongas Sur I)-9.8083-77.24405688
                Mururaju is situated in the little-known Raria Valley in the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, 65km southeast of Huaraz. This beautiful peak is rarely climbed, despite offering superb mountain vistas towards Cordillera Huayhuash (south), the Cordillera Huallanca(east), Cordillera Negra (west) and the Cordillera Blanca (north).
                1900-01-01
                Event
                • Tomé pp.248
                East side
                Arista E. D; 1100m. 1964-08-10First ascentDomingos Giobbi & E. Angeles, 1964-08-10.
                South side
                South face direct (Argentine-Israeli route). TD; WI3; 600m, 10h. 1999-01-01Mururaju, South face direct, First ascent , 1999.
                West side
                West ridge (West ridge & SW face). AD; 1100m, 3 days roundtrip from Huaraz. 1952-06-10First ascentLionel Terray, Cees G. Egeler, Tom de Booy, 1952-06-10.
                Arista N. 1100m. 1971-06-03First ascentRolf Röcker, W. Weber, F. Wibmer, H. Güner, W. Hummel, Dr. Schwenkglenks, P. Schmil & Dietrich Fritz, 1971-06-03.
                Slovenska smer. D; 70°; 1000m, 9h. 2010-07-25First ascentDrago Frelih, 2010-07-25.
                Pongas Sur III (Ichic Pongas)5580
                1900-01-01
                Event
                NW side
                Pendientes NO. 1971-05-25First ascentH. Guner, R. Rocker, W. Weber & D. Schwenkglenks, 1971-05-25.
                • Tomé pp.249#1
                Carakuta (P. 5410)5410
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North face
                North face. 1971-05-17First ascentW. Hummel & Dietrich Fritz, 1971-05-17.
                Acoraju Norte (P. 5227)5227
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North face
                North face. 1971-05-18First ascentRolf Röcker & W. Weber, 1971-05-18.
                Acorumi Norte (P. 5089)5089
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North face
                North face. 1971-05-14First ascentRolf Röcker & W. Weber, 1971-05-14.
                Acorumi Central (P. 5063)5063
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SW ridge
                SW ridge. 1971-05-14First ascentSchwenkglenks, 1971-05-14.
                Acorumi Sur (P. 5060)5060
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West ridge
                West ridge. 1971-05-15First ascentW. Hummel & Dietrich Fritz, 1971-05-15.

                Raria

                Raria West

                Raria Norte-9.8220-77.20735590
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SE glacier (Vertiente S)
                SE glacier. Glacier, PD; 5-6h. 1963-08-02First ascentDomingos Giobbi, M. Angeles & D. Solano, 1963-08-02.
                Normal route. Easy ascent through SE glacier to col between Raria Norte and Sur (5200m). From there along south slopes to the summit.
                Raria Sur (Tantash)-9.8356-77.20995504
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North ridge
                North ridge. PD/AD. 1959-06-10First ascentH. Gasser & D. Solano, 1959-06-10.
                route is the same as SE glacier on Raria Norte until col between Raria Norte and Sur.

                Waiaku

                Raria Este I (Huaiyacu)-9.8353-77.18835460
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SW side
                Arista SE. 1963-08-03First ascentEugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1963-08-03.
                From the glacier to col Raria Este I and II and along SE ridge to summit.
                Huarapasca (Waiaku)-9.8506-77.18885430
                1974-01-01
                Huarapasca, ,
                First ascent                		Party from
                • Sharman pp.99
                NW side
                NW slopes. 30-45°; 4-6h. 1974-01-01Huarapasca, NW slopes, First ascent , 1974.
                Raria Este II (Raria Este Chico)5380
                SE of Raria Este I
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                North ridge. 1963-08-04First ascentEugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1963-08-04.
                Huayllaco Oeste (P.5343, Ancosh)5343
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                North side. 1974-07-13First ascentT. Polakiewics, 1974-07-13.
                Gajap-9.8319-77.17535208
                Located to the east of Raria Este, at the NE end of Waiaky chain. South and East sides are well accessible from the road past Pastoruri.

                Caullaraju

                Huisco group

                Huisco (Huicsu, Wiksu Sur)-9.9196-77.21905487
                • Huisco (5487m-9.9196-77.2190)
                • Sur (5437m)
                Westrenmost main peak in Huisco group. The peaks has four main ridges: North(E) ridge to Santón, (S)East ridge connecting to Tucu. South ridge with Huicsu Sur towards Condorjitanca and (N)West ridge into quebrada Huicsu.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West face
                Frames by West and South ridges and accessible from quebrada Huicsu, which can be gained from to road leading to Pastoruri few km before it.
                West face. Glacier, 40°; 1 day. 1977-07-31First ascentFritz Niedermaier, Alfred Müller, Sepp Gloggner & Peter Gloggner, 1977-07-31.
                NE ridge
                NE ridge. Glacier, F. 1959-06-04First ascentH. gasser, H. pattis & D. Solano, 1959-06-04.
                Condorjitanca5392
                • Condorjitanca
                • Condorjitanca Chico (5360m-9.9408-77.2168)
                Located between Huicsu in the north and Caullaraju group (Quenuaracra) in the south.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                SE side
                SE-NE traverse. 1963-07-25First ascentEugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1963-07-25.
                N face of Condorjitanca Chico, then SE ridge of Condorjitanca.
                SW ridge
                SW ridge. Snow, 50°; 1 day. 1977-07-25First ascentSepp Gloggner & Peter Gloggner, 1977-07-25.

                Caullaraju group

                Caullaraju Este (Qiwllarahu, Caullaraju)-9.9593-77.23345682
                Easternmost and the highest of Caullaraju peaks. The peaks has four ridges: NW ridge from Caullaraju Central, NE ridge from Quenuaracra, SE ridge from the road end in quebrada Qenua and SW ridge.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North face
                North face (Glacier sur y lado norte). PD. 1962-07-14First ascentDomingos Giobbi, Eugenio Angeles & Macario Angeles, 1962-07-14.
                NE ridge
                NE ridge. Rock, F; 40°; 1 day. 1977-07-30First ascentSepp Gloggner, Hans Gloggner & Peter Gloggner, 1977-07-30.
                West side
                West side. Rock, 1 day. 1966-05-22First ascentV. Angeles, D. Flores & R. Matsuda, 1966-05-22.
                • Sharman pp.100
                • Tomé pp.254#2
                Caullaraju Central (Nevado Brasil)-9.9524-77.24415636
                1900-01-01
                Event
                NW side
                NW glacier (North slopes, Pendientes N). Snow, F. 1961-07-20First ascentE. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles, 1961-07-20.
                Caullaraju Oeste II (Cruz de Plata)5603
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                Vertiente NO. AD/D. 1959-06-21First ascentHannes Gasser, K. Kelplinger, H. Pattis & V. Staudacher, 1959-06-21.
                • Tomé pp.255#1
                • Sharmann pp.101
                Caullaraju Oeste I (Shumagraju, Shumacraju)-9.9661-77.26135582
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                Pendientes N. 1961-07-20First ascentE. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles, 1961-07-20.
                Traverse from Caullaraju Central.
                Caullaraju Oeste III (Nevado Vinci)5500
                West of Cruz del Plata.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                Vertiente NO. 1952-03-03First ascentF. Anzio, G. Verganni & A. Vinci, 1952-03-03.
                South glacier
                South glacier. 1962-07-19First ascentE. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles, 1962-07-19.
                Caullaraju Oeste IV (Carioca)5460
                1900-01-01
                Event
                South glacier
                South glacier. 1962-07-19First ascentE. Angeles, Domingos Giobbi & M. Angeles, 1962-07-19.
                Caullaraju Norte-9.9483-77.25595420
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                North slopes. Snow, 1973-07-09First ascentE. Chrobak & R. Gutkowski, 1973-07-09.
                SW side
                • Tomé pp.254#1
                West side
                West ridge. 1960-07-15First ascentDomingos Giobbi & E. Angeles, 1960-07-15.
                Quenuaracra (P.5353)-9.9524-77.22485353
                Located to the south of Condorjitanca-Quanuaracra col separating Huicsu and Caullaraju groups. SW ridge connects the peak with Caullaraju Este.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North face
                North face. Snow, 40°; 1 day. 1977-07-25First ascentSepp Gloggner, 1977-07-25.
                South face
                South face. 1962-07-12First ascentDomingos Giobbi & Eugenio Angeles, 1962-07-12.
                Queñuaracra Chico (P.5147)-9.9675-77.20535147
                Located on SE ridge of Queñuaracra where it turn SW towards Quenua.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                NW side
                NW side. 1962-07-16First ascentM. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1962-07-16.
                SW side
                SW side. 1967-07-01First ascentO. Gambini, P. Morales & M. Sotomayor, 1967-07.

                Tuco-Rajutuna

                Tuco

                Tuco-9.9241-77.19895487
                • Tuco (5479m)
                • Wiksu (Tuku Oeste) (5487m-9.9241-77.1989)
                Central of the three main peaks above quebrada Pastoruri, connected by West ridge to Huicsu and SW ridge to Pastoruri. Access to NW face is very short from the road in quebrada Pastoruri.
                1900-01-01
                Event
                NW slopes
                NW slopes. Glacier, PD; 60°. 1963-07-23First ascentEugenio Angeles, M. Angeles & Domingos Giobbi, 1963-07-23.
                Pastoruri-9.9190-77.17935240
                Pastoruri is popular tourist attraction as regular bus service goes to quebrada Pastoruri very close to the peak on its north side. Ascent from there is shirt and easy glacier climb, thus making it well suited as acclimatization peak.
                North face
                North face. Snow, I F; 250m.
                • Biggar 2005 pp.91

                Rajutuna

                Rajutuna (Raju Cutac)-10.0095-77.17595360
                1900-01-01
                Event
                West side
                West slopes. Snow, 1 day. 1963-10-02First ascentA. Gruft, H. Gruft & E. Henostroza, 1963-10-02.
                Rajutuna Norte (Paulista)5349
                1900-01-01
                Event
                North side
                NW slopes & North face. 1959-12-26First ascentDomingos Giobbi & Eugenio Angeles, 1959-12-26.
                • Sharman pp.101
                Rajutuna Suroeste5137
                1957-05-28
                Rajutuna Suroeste, ,
                First ascent                		Party from
                North side
                North slopes. 1957-05-28Rajutuna Suroeste, North slopes, First ascent , 1957-05-28.
                • Sharman pp.102
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