The Last Great Climb movie poster. Credit: Posing Productions, Shot on 2014-01-20 Photo taken.Licensed under: Public Domain.

While on Topic of upcoming films, there appears to be another interesting looking project in the making. The Last Great Climb Posing Productions20132013-11-15The 2013 film from Alastair Lee is an epic to end all mountain epics se t in the stunning mountains of Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. The feature documentary follows top adventure climber Leo Houlding with his tried and tested team of Jason Pickles and Sean ‘Stanley’ Leary as they attempt to make the first ascent of the NE ridge of 'the master piece of the range'; the majestic Ulvetanna Peak (2931m). One of the most technically demanding climbs in the world’s harshest environment. The film tells the story of a climber's life long dream reach one of the world's most remote and difficult summits, interweaved with the fascinating story of the mountain itself; which incredibly was only discovered in 1994. All set against the backdrop of the current age of mountaineering where few great lines remained unclimbed.Alastair LeeLeo Houlding; Sean LearyAdventure; DocumentaryAntarctica; Ulvetanna; Leo Houldinghttp://www.thelastgreatclimb.com/cache/uploads/images/gallery/d8106c9b09bf95bbf0f5b345eebb8dc16298f0e3.jpghttp://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=258/tt3872000281315 covers the first ascent of NE ridgeUlvetanna2931mNE ridge5.12,A2/E6 6b,A2/C235 pitches, 1750m by Leo Houlding, Sean Leary, Jason Pickles & Chris Rabone.

If the previous work of director Alastair Lee and the trailer is anything to go by, some spectacular footage should be a given. The feature is third part of the trilogy by the same team, the two previous ones are (North Peak, NW faceMount Asgard2015mNorth Peak, NW sideE6 6b) and Autana Posing Productions20122012-08-31Adventure climber Leo Houlding and film maker Alastair Lee are back with another sumptuous production of truly epic proportions. This time Leo (UK) and fellow climbers Sean Leary (USA) and Jason Pickles (Salford) head deep into the Amazon in an attempt to make the first ascent of the east face of the remote tepuy; Cerro Autana.Alastair LeeAlastair Lee (Producer)Leo Houlding; Sean Leary; Jason PicklesAdventure; DocumentaryLeo Houldingresources/media_images/Autana.jpgplugin://plugin.video.youtube/?action=play_video&videoid=WzBaPd3OxmM&hd=1218747. BTW, there's also another movie about difficult rock climbing on Mount Asgard: Asgard Jamming 20092009-01-01Attempt to make the first free climbing of the Mount Asgard.Stephane Hanssens; Nicolas Favresse; Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll; Oliver FavresseAdventure; Documentaryresources/media_images/Asgard Jamminghttp://www.xpedition.be/?p=310271923.

• Ulvetanna: The Last Great Climb. Filmmaker Alastair Lee previews his 2013 film, "The Last Great Climb," featuring Leo Houlding, Sean "Stanley" Leary, Jason Pickles and Chris Rabone during their first ascent of the Northeast Ridge (5.12 A2, 1750m) of Ulvetanna in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Dreams become reality for this group of climbers as they ascend "the masterpiece of this range." But with unnatural beauty comes unnatural weather, and Houlding's team faces extreme temperatures as low as -31 degrees Fahrenheit with windchill. "The Last Great Climb" makes its debut in December 2013. By Alastair Lee at Alpinist on 2013-06-28.
• Climber Leo Houlding tells of 'out of this world' brutal Ulvetanna ascent. Top British climber Leo Houlding has described his ‘out of this world’ first climb of a brutal route in Antarctica, saying the expedition pushed his team to its limits. By Liz Roberts at Grough on 2013-01-28.
• Ulvetanna Peak, new North East Ridge route in Antarctica. The North East ridge of Ulvetanna Peak (2931m) in the Antarctica has been climbed for the first time by Leo Houlding, Sean Leary, Alastair Lee, Jason Pickles, Chris Rabone and David Reeves. At Planet Mountain.
• Major new route in Antarctica by Houlding and team. In late January, after a year spent organising the project, Leo Houlding, Sean Leary (USA), Alastair Lee, Jason Pickles and Chris Rabone stood on the summit of Ulvetanna, having made the first ascent of the huge northeast ridge. By Lindsay Griffin on 2013-01-28.
• The British Mountaineering Council. The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is the representative body that exists to protect the freedoms and promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers. The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.
• Antarctica’s Great Climb. The North East Ridge of Ulvetanna. By Alastair Lee on 2013-08-20.
• Gripped. Canadian climbing magazine.
• The Asgard Project: A Q&A with Alastair LeThe Asgard Project: A Q&A with Alastair Le. The Asgard Project trails an expedition, led by Leo Houlding, to make the first free ascent of Mt. Asgard's North Tower on Baffin Island. Houlding teams up with Sean "Stanley" Leary in hopes of making a wingsuit descent from the summit, while filmmaker Alastair Lee and his crew tag along to capture the adventure on film. By 2011-04-18 at Alpinist on Gwen Cameron.
• The Asgard ProjectThe Asgard Project. At almost an hour and a half, the film might seem long for a climbing documentary, but the scale and quality of its climax justifies the patient build-up. The odds of Houlding and Lee pulling off a great climbing expedition film were stacked against them from the start, and circumstances worked against them. Even so, they pulled it out of the fire, and a big, ambitious film is appropriate. It's possible this film may re-emerge as a television documentary. I hope they don't cut it too much. This kind of thing doesn't come along very often. At Calm and Fearless.
• The Asgard Project. Article originally from Climber 2009-12 At Leo Houlding.
• Leo braves tropical nasties for first ascent on Amazon 'lost world'. One of Britain’s top climbers has followed in the footsteps of Sir Arthur Conan’s Doyle’s adventure heroes with ascent to a South American ‘lost world’. By Liz Roberts at Grough on 2012-03-09.
• Al Lee's new film Autana charts the ascent of Conan-Doyle's 'Lost World'. Renowned adventure filmmaker Alastair Lee’s latest film promises to be an offering beyond the ordinary with tales of disguise, shamanism and jungle nasties. By Liz Roberts at Grough on 2012-10-03.

I stumbled on this short film commemorates legendary ice climber Guy Lacelle: . There appears to be some films of similar length available in Yotube and few other places, not sure whether this is the same film or not. Anyway, HD download is pretty cheap on Alstrin Films site.

• Guy Lacelle Killed in Avalanche. By Dougald MacDonald at Climbing Magazine on 2009-12-10.
• Video: Guy Lacelle, Legend. Earlier this month, Guy Lacelle (54) died in an avalanche in Hyalite Canyon, Montana. The Canadian climber and silviculturist, who dedicated his life to these crafts, had scaled more ice than anyone in ice-climbing history. Every year he traveled the globe, searching walls, canyons and corners for the finest, wildest ice on earth. By Erik Lambert at Alpinist on 2009-12-23.
• Solo, Part III: Guy Lacelle. Soloing is often described as the most pure and dangerous form of climbing. For all of us, testing the limit of what's comfortable, whether that is scrambling up 5.3 terrain or spending fifty days on a big wall alone, is an unparalleled mental and physical exploration. By Guy Lacelle at Alpinist on 2008-07-09.
• New Slawinski route tribute to Guy Lacelle. Raphael Slawinski and Eamonn Walsh have made the first ascent of a specular line, Lacelle Qui Reste (WI6, 40 meters), on Mt. Wilson in the Canadian Rockies, on December 30. By Duane Raleigh at Rock & Ice on 2013-01-18.

Source: Abe Books. Credit: Abe Books, Licensed under: Public Domain.

When shopping for The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes.Rebuffat, GastonMountaineers Books1996The definitive hard backed 'inspirational' guide to the Mont Blanc area, illustrated throughout. The internationally renowned Gaston Rébuffat here provides an outstandingly comprehensive step-by-step description of his 100 finest climbing routes in the Mont Blanc massif. The author begins by taking the reader up the fairly simple routes, such as the traverse from the Clocher to the Clochetons de Planpraz and the South-East arête of the Aiguille de I'Index, gradually progresses to the more difficult routes of the Gervasutti Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul and the Hirondelles arête on the Grandes Jorasses, and finally climaxes in the superb climbs on the Droites North Face and the Central Pillar of Frêney on Mont Blanc.Each route has at least a double-page spread of text, photographs and a map of the area of the route. Rébuffat explains his reasons for choosing the individual route and then gives information on the first ascent, height, difficulty, time, equipment, starting point and an account in outline and detail of the ascent and, where necessary, the descent as well. Rébuffat's vivid and authoritative text is made even more exciting by the numerous exceptionally beautiful photographs and specially drawn maps. The translation by Drs Jane and Colin Taylor reproduces faithfully the quality and style of the original French text. Colin Taylor will already be well-known to many mountaineers as the General Editor of the Alpine Club guidebooks which include this area.08988647710898864771Guidebooken I came by Kurt Diemberger Omnibus Kurt Diemberger Omnibus: Summits & Secrets, the Endless Knot, Spirits of the Air.Diemberger, KurtMountaineers Books1999Kurt Diemberger is a the only person alive to have made first ascents on two 8,000-metre peaks – Dhaulagiri and Broad Peak – and he is recognised as one of the finest chroniclers of his contemporary mountaineering scene. His books have popular around the world and his writing is guaranteed to enlighten, move and entertain.As a fantastic mountaineer and career expeditioner, and a skilled filmmaker and writer he has been a witness to 50 years of eventful Alpinism and Himalayan climbing. He gives us a link to the golden age when the 8000-metre peaks were first climbed – in the 1950s and early 60s.The Kurt Diemberger Omnibus brings together three fine books, one of which, The Endless Knot, is perhaps the most gripping and tragic mountaineering saga ever written. It describes the ill-starred K2 attempts of 1986 during which thirteen climbers died in a variety of incidents. At the end of the season seven climbers made one last bid to gain the summit, five succeeded but, overtaken by a storm during the descent, only two of the seven climbers survived. One of them was Diemberger, who describes events with harrowing candour.Summits and Secrets deals with Diemberger’s early climbs in the Alps, the Hindu Kush and the Himalaya. It describes the epoch-making first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957 and the equally significant first ascent of Dhaulagiri in 1960, where he reached the summit with a Swiss team. The final book is the more relaxed Spirits of the Air, where Diemberger reflects on his varying – and often hilarious adventures – and on the contrasts between his life in Italy, Austria and the always-beckoning Himalaya.97808988660639780898866063Non-fictionen which is a collection of several books of mountaineering legend Kurt Diemberger tied together, much like The Boardman Tasker Omnibus: Savage Arena, the Shining Mountain, Sacred Summits, Everest the Cruel Way.Tasker, Joe; Boardman, Peter & Bonington, ChrisMountaineers Books1995Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker each two accomplished books which, deservedly, soon acquired classic status and became required reading for all those venturing to high altitude. It is fitting that the memorial to these two exceptional climbers and writers should take the form of the annual Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature. As for their own four books, these are now reprinted for the first time in one volume. 97808988643669780898864366Non-fictionen.

• Kurt Diemberger wins Piolets d'Or lifetime achievement award. After Walter Bonatti (2009), Reinhold Messner (2010), Doug Scott (2011) and Robert Paragot (2012), the fifth Piolets d'Or lifetime achievement award has been bestowed on Austrian mountaineer Kurt Diemberger. By Lindsay Griffin at The British Mountaineering Council on 2013-04-05.
• Kurt Diemberger: an interview. An interview with Kurt Diemberger in April 1997. By Amar Dev Dhindsa at Alpine Journal on 1998.

I seem to keep on stumbling on interesting videos. First we have this: Dru North Couloir Direct http://vimeo.com/40253797#, which in its own right is pretty damn spectacular. However, then there is this coming up: Jirishanca Teaser http://vimeo.com/61660746. Apparently the full length film is coming later.

In the mean time there are some related stuff.

• Michi Wohlleben - Jirishanca expedition. Last summer the professional mountain climbers Michi Wohlleben, Arne Bergau and Hannes Jähn made an attempt to ascend the 6,094 metre Jirishanca in Peru via the Southwest Face. Cameraman and photographer Hans Hornberger documented the expedition. Johanna Stöckl talked with Michi Wohlleben shortly before the film was released. It was a conversation about pressure, failure, disappointment, and the drive to try again. By Johanna Stöckl at Salewa on 2013-003-28.
• Michi Wohlleben zurück vom Jirishanca. Michi Wohlleben, ebenfalls Mitglied des Expedkaders 2009 hat neben seiner bestandenen Ausbildung zum staatlich geprüften Berg- und Skiführer geschafft, wovon viele Träumen, als Profibergsteiger kann er von seinem Sport leben. Vor kurzem war Michi in Südamerika am Jirishanca unterwegs. Von diesem abenteurlichen Trip berichtet er im nachfolgenden Bericht. At Deutsche Alpenverein.
• Project Jirishanca. Profibergsteiger Michi Wohlleben (21) und die beiden Bergführer Arne Bergau und Hannes Jähn starten am 27. Mai 2012 in Richtung peruanische Anden. At Michi Wohlleben.

In my trip to Peru I found out that my Scarpa Phantom GuideScarpaPhantom Guidehttp://www.scarpa.com/images/products/87411-210/detail.jpgRedefining mountain performance, this boot is suitable for challenging the most technical routes in cold climates, whether ice cragging or in the high mountains. are probably not quite warm enough for multi-day trips at altitude. Well, actually the problem is their lack of warmth, they are plenty warm when dry. However, the problem is that they won't be warm after the first day. And good luck trying to get them to dry when camping on the glacier. Therefore double boots are in order to maintain warmth for days in an a climb.

Fortunately gone are the days of clunky plastics. Best of the current crop of double boots are supposed to be only slightly bulkier than single boots and not much heavier either. Particularly Scarpa Scarpa Phantom 6000ScarpaPhantom 6000Phantom 6000, new model indicate for technical Himalayan mountaineering and extreme use in cold environments. No compromise in the search of innovation in warmth and lightness. looks the part when it comes to volume. According to reviews they offer good ankle lock and climbs as well as the Guides. I've read that they have flimsy inner bootie, that's not very durable. However, this shouldn't be too difficult to fix, as Palau booties can be had for reasonable price. What makes me concerned is the fit though. My Phantom Guides are 45. I'd like HA boots to be slightly larger, but apparently Scarpa makes no half sizes.

Unfortunately pretty much all of the competing models (that is to say La Sportiva BaruntseLa SportivaBaruntseWhen the conditions are cold and high the Baruntse offers a hospitable climate to keep your feet warm and dry. Ideal for use on 6-7000 meter peaks or in harsh winter conditions where you don't want to think about your feet. The thermo-formable inner boot sports the patented speed lacing system and couples with the highly insulated multi-layered PE outerboot for dependable warmth and a PU coating to keep moisture and cold outside and heat inside the boot., La Sportiva SpantikLa SportivaSpantikThe Spantik is perfect for 6-7000 meter peaks or anywhere that you need a toasty warm performance fit. This is a lighter, warmer more compact alternative to the Nuptse. It is step-in crampon compatible and provides excellent technical climbing capabilities., Boreal SiulaBorealSiulaIntense to extremely cold conditions. High mountain and altitude climbing. Long winter alpine ascents., Asolo Base Camp GVAsoloBase Camp GV, Lowa Expedition 6000 RD PLUSLowaExpedition 6000 RD PLUShttp://www.lowa.de/artikel/sehrgross/230065%207220.jpgThis proven mountaineering boot is ideal for tough, western alpine routes with mixed terrain and for expeditions in the 6,000-meter zone. The removable inner boot of quick-drying materials keeps you dry and fits perfectly. and Zamberlan 6000 Denali RRZamberlan6000 Denali RRhttp://www.zamberlan.com/upld/201203/001_6000_Denali_black_red_sml.jpgExternal gaiter made of Cordura® fabric in the upper area and Cordura®/Kevlar® in the lower area to ensure thermal insulation and abrasion resistance - Riri Storm® waterproof and UV ray resistant zip with protective cover - Inner, removable bootee sepcifically developed to grant warmth, lined in mesh for better internal ventilation - Thermal removable footbed with a PE layer for cushioning and an aluminum film for optimum insulation - Carbon fiber + fiberglass midsole ensures maximum rigidity and lightness - Vibram® sole for extended durability and grip - Zamberlan® PCS system for crampons. are either a lot bulkier, quite a bit heaver or both.

Dane of ColdThistle has written extensively on the subject of double boots, both in the form of general articles and reviews of specific models.

• Why a double boot?. With reviews of the most popular double boots on the blog and more coming of similar models I think the use of double boots might need some explanation again. By Dane Burns at Cold Thistle on 2013-07-25.
• Double Boot Resource Info. I have distinct opinions on the use of double boots in cold weather and winter climbing. But this winter with even more of a chance of a cold injury myself I am beginning to wonder if there aren't more factors involved that keep your feet warm and in good shape than I had previously suspected. By Dane Burns at Cold Thistle on 2012-03-12.
• Scarpa Phantom 6000The Scarpa Phantom 6000 review. I know, I know, it only took 30 years but we are finally back to a double boot that excels on technical climbing and that weighs in at a svelte 2# 10oz in my size 12 (46) feet. (Poetic license and a cleaner intro on the 2.5# since my size 12s won't make that number.) I can drop a full pound off my size 12 feet by using these boots! That is 6.5 off my back by the theory. But do they fit? And how do they climb? By Dane Burns at Cold Thistle on 2010-08-14.
• Scarpa Phantom 6000Double boots part 3, The Scarpa 6000. By Dane Burns at Cold Thistle on 2012-09-13.
• Scarpa Phantom 6000Scarpa 6000 double boot review by Dave Searle. I have been using my Scarpa 6000 now for about a year and on the most part I have been really impressed with them. By Dave Searle at Cold Thistle on 2011-11-03.
• Scarpa Phantom 6000True Love!.... Scarpa 6000 mods. Seriously this is the first boot I have fallen hard for since my 2nd hand Haderers in the '70s. But the 6000 with a Baruntse inner boot properly fit is much lighter, much warmer and much more comfortable. And *CRIKEY* the Phantom 6000 climbs ice well! Any ice! By Dane Burns at Cold Thistle on 2013-01-15.
• Scarpa Phantom 6000First look: Scarpa Phantom 6000. Scarpa revamped their whole high-altitude and technical mountain footwear line over the past few years. The most notable changes came to the Phantom series: Guide, 6000 and 8000, as well as the lightweight Ultra, available only in Europe. The Guide has become a relatively popular and commonplace boot, with almost every Scarpa dealer stocking a full run, while the 6000 and 8000 models are rarely seen even in specialist shops. By Rafal Andronowski at The Alpine Start on 2013-01-03.
• Scarpa Phantom 6000Long Term Review: Scarpa Phantom 6000. I’ve been very happy having the Phantom 6000 in my boot stable. It gives me options when it’s really cold, and has definitely saved my toes a few times on frigid belays. Having used them on everything from steep ice to overhanging rock, I’ve gained a lot of confidence in them, and am really looking forward to using them on some alpine climbs this coming spring. By Rafal Andronowski at The Alpine Start on 2014-03-11.
• Double boots (climbing specific) Part Two the SpantikDouble boots (climbing specific) Part Two the Spantik. They are tough, durable enough and not too heavy. The laces, lace eyelets and inner boots could be better. It would be a much better boot by most accounts if delivered with the Baruntse's Palau inner boot. By Dane Burns at Cold Thistle on 2012-06-19.
• Double boots (climbing specific) Part One the BaruntseDouble boots (climbing specific) Part One the Baruntse. So yes if you like the Nepal Evo or the previous Nepal Top, you will likely be thrilled with the fit and performance of the Baruntse. The Baruntse is simply, in my opinion, a super cold weather version of the Nepal Evo. And I make that comparison with all due respect. The Nepal Evo is one of the most technical alpine climbing boots in the world today. Could the Baruntse be better? Sure it could. If it were better (read lighter in weight) it would be the only double boot I own. By Dane Burns at Cold Thistle on 2012-06-05.

Shot on 2013-08-04 Photo taken.Licensed under: Public Domain.

The Mont Blanc Massif: The 100 Finest Routes.Rebuffat, GastonMountaineers Books1996The definitive hard backed 'inspirational' guide to the Mont Blanc area, illustrated throughout. The internationally renowned Gaston Rébuffat here provides an outstandingly comprehensive step-by-step description of his 100 finest climbing routes in the Mont Blanc massif. The author begins by taking the reader up the fairly simple routes, such as the traverse from the Clocher to the Clochetons de Planpraz and the South-East arête of the Aiguille de I'Index, gradually progresses to the more difficult routes of the Gervasutti Couloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul and the Hirondelles arête on the Grandes Jorasses, and finally climaxes in the superb climbs on the Droites North Face and the Central Pillar of Frêney on Mont Blanc.Each route has at least a double-page spread of text, photographs and a map of the area of the route. Rébuffat explains his reasons for choosing the individual route and then gives information on the first ascent, height, difficulty, time, equipment, starting point and an account in outline and detail of the ascent and, where necessary, the descent as well. Rébuffat's vivid and authoritative text is made even more exciting by the numerous exceptionally beautiful photographs and specially drawn maps. The translation by Drs Jane and Colin Taylor reproduces faithfully the quality and style of the original French text. Colin Taylor will already be well-known to many mountaineers as the General Editor of the Alpine Club guidebooks which include this area.08988647710898864771Guidebooken has been prime source of inspiration for many an alpinist. Now there appear to be new version out: Mont Blanc: The Finest Routes.Batoux, PhilippeVertebrate Publishing2013Mont Blanc - The Finest Routes is a collection of the 100 must-do climbing routes in the Mont Blanc Massif. Modern alpinism is a multi-faceted activity for which the Mont Blanc Massif is the perfect playground. Classic routes to which every mountaineer can aspire are surrounded by the towering rock faces, huge mixed walls, precipitous ice shields, serrated ridges and narrow gullies that define the massif's harder climbs. In order to attain these prestigious summits via the most interesting itineraries, this book presents a modern selection of 100 must-do routes, ranging from historic classics to more recent lines, described in order of increasing difficulty. Author and mountain guide Philippe Batoux provides a comprehensive account of each route, outlining its history and atmosphere and giving all the technical information needed to climb it. These written descriptions are complemented by photo diagrams and detailed topos. In addition, every route is illustrated with superbly evocative photos that make best use of the book's large format. The routes were chosen for the quality of the rock, the reliability of the in-situ gear, the beauty of the surroundings, the prestige of the summit and the enthusiasm the route inspires. Preference has been given to routes in the modern idiom, whether they are gullies that only form in winter, difficult free climbs on high-altitude cliffs, long ridge scrambles or traverses of major summits. There are routes here for all tastes, from famous classics such as the Cosmiques Ridge on the Aiguille du Midi, the American Direct on the Petit Dru, the Whymper Couloir on the Aiguille Verte, the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses and the Kuffner Ridge on Mont Maudit to more recent gems such as Je t'ai conquis, Je t'adore on Pointe Lepiney, No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses and Le Vent du Dragon on the Aiguille du Midi.97819061486459781906148645Guidebooken haven't seen it myself yet, but I'm sure it is worthy addition to guidebook library of anyone comtemplating a visit to the area.

A collection of the 100 must-do climbs in the Mont Blanc Massif - Rebuffat for the modern age! Modern alpinism is a multi-faceted activity for which the Mont Blanc Massif is the perfect playground. Classic routes to which every mountaineer can aspire are surrounded by the towering rock faces, huge mixed walls, precipitous ice shields, serrated ridges and narrow gullies that define the massif's harder climbs. In order to attain these prestigious summits via the most interesting itineraries, this book presents a modern selection of 100 must-do routes, ranging from historic classics to more recent lines, described in order of increasing difficulty. Author and mountain guide Philippe Batoux provides a comprehensive account of each route, outlining its history and atmosphere and giving all the technical information needed to climb it. These written descriptions are complemented by photo diagrams and detailed topos. In addition, every route is illustrated with superbly evocative photos that make best use of the book's large format.

Source: Andy Houseman. Credit: Andy Houseman, Licensed under: Public Domain.

While browsing Vimeo I came across interesting pair of videos regarding Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock's ascent of Slovak DirectDenali6190.5mSouth faceAK6; WI6 M5/100°, 5.9/V+2700m. The route went formerly with the name "Czech Direct", but was later renamed as the FA party was indeed Slovak, not Czech.

It is very big route indeed, that has got a lot of fame as it was heavily featured in both Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High, 1st edition.Twight, Mark & Martin, JamesMountaineers Books1999* The most advanced climbing how-to on the market * Techniques and mental skills needed to climb at a more challenging level * Illustrated with full-color photos throughoutBig, high routes at the edge of a climber's ability are not the places for inventing technique or relying on old habits. Complacency can lead to fatal errors. So where does the hard-core aspirant or dreamer turn? The only master class in print, Extreme Alpinism delivers an expert dose of reality and practical techniques for advanced climbers.Focusing on how top alpine climbers approach the world's most difficult routes, Twight centers his instruction on the ethos of climbing the hardest routes with the least amount of gear and the most speed. Throughout, Twight makes it clear that the two things he refuses to compromise are safety and his climbing ethics. In addition to the extensive chapters on advanced techniques and skills, Twight also discusses mental preparedness and attitude; strength and cardiovascular training; good nutrition; and tips on equipment and clothing.08988665450898866545Extreme AlpinismNon-fictionen and Beyond the Mountain.House, StevePatagonia Inc2009What does it take to be one of the world's best high-altitude mountain climbers? It takes raising funds for an expedition, negotiating some of the world's most dangerous countries, suffering freezing-cold bivouacs and enduring the discomforts of high altitude. It also means learning the hard lessons the mountains teach. This book explores those lessons. Dubbed by Reinhold Messner, "The best high-altitude climber in the world today." Steve House's story chronicles his experiences in the worlds highest mountains, each chapter revealing a different aspect of mountaineering.97809790659589780979065958HouseBiographyen Together with Scott Backes, Twight and House made 60h non-stop ascent, that is considered milestone in fast and light style of alpinism.

The first video EpicTV Interviews: Alpinist Andy Houseman On Denali's Slovak Direct http://vimeo.com/47234346 concentrate on history of the climb and personal impressions while the latter BD athlete Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock climb Denali's Slovak Direct http://vimeo.com/50702182 is filled with climbing action the climbers shot themselves.

• Over the Top.. "Ever since reading Mark Twight’s account of climbing the Slovak in a single push along with Scott Backes and Steve House I have dreamt about attempting this climb. It’s one of those rights of passage routes – five thousand, five hundred feet of technical climbing, three thousand five hundred feet of classic mountaineering – nine thousand feet in total (included for those whose maths is as bad as mine)." By Nick Bullock at Great Escape. Nick Bullock..
• Slovak Direct, South Face of Denali. "After six weeks away Nick Bullock and I are slowly negotiating all the security, excess baggage and general airport hassle on our way back home. Six weeks away for 84 hours of climbing, sometimes I wonder why at times! But this time there’s no question that those 84 hours climbing the Slovak Direct on the nearly 3000m South Face of Denali, 6194m, were the most committed, intense and memorable climbing I have ever done." By Andy Houseman at Andy Houseman.
• Andy Houseman interview. This June saw top British alpinists Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman make an impressive repeat of the Slovak Direct route on Denali in Alaska. The Slovak Direct, first climbed in 1984 by Tono Krizo, Frantisek Korl and Blazej Adam, is recognised as one of Alaska's toughest testpieces. Bullock and Houseman's ascent took 84 hours in total and was probably the 6th and the first by British team. Climb caught up with Andy to get the full lowdown. Look out for Nick and Andy's revealing account in Climb Magazine this autumn. At Climb Magazine.
• Slovak Direct on Denali climbed by Bullock and Houseman. From 24 - 27 June 2012 British alpinists Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman made a rare repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska. By Planetmountain at Planet Mountain on 2012-07-09.